Farmhouse Queen Plans

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Farmhouse Queen Plans

My bed is my favorite piece of furniture I have ever built. My farmhouse bed has all the top qualities of a Knock-Off Wood furniture plan: cheap, easy, fast, beautiful, simple, durable, no special tools required. And did I mention that this bed is solid wood? Nope, no MDF in this bed. I have since made several Farmhouse beds, and am always very happy with this particular furniture plan.I spent a total of $120 on this bed, using some scraps, leftover paint, and off the shelf lumber.

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Shopping List: 

(4) 1” x 8” x 8’ Pine Board (For Panels)
(8) 1” x 4” x 8’ Pine Board (Trim for Panels)
(2) 4” x 4” x 8’ Beam (Posts)
(2) 2” x 4” x 8’ Boards (Top of Panels, you can use 2x4 studs)
(8) 2” x 6” x 8’ Boards (Top of headboard and footboard, joists for bed frame, you can use 2x6 studs)
(2) 2” x 10” x8’ Boards (Siderails)
(2) 4’ x 8’ x 1/2'” Plywood (For the frame if you do not have a box spring)
(1) Gallon Paint
(20) 4 1/2" screws
(50) 3" screws
(100) 1 1/4" brad nails for nailer Wood Glue

120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
safety glasses
General Instructions: 

In addition to the standard instructions, make sure you also read through all the other Farmhouse Bed Plans. I tried to integrate different techniques in the different plans to help you build your best possible bed. Good luck!

Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"
Cut List: 

(8) 1” x 8” @ 30” Headboard Panel
(8) 1” x 8” @ 15” Footboard Panel
(8) 1” x 4” @ 60” Trim for Panels
(2) 4” x 4” @ 54” Headboard Post
(2) 4” x 4” @ 21” Footboard Post
(2) 2” x 4” @ 67” Top of Panels and Posts (recommend taking an exact measurement before cutting)
(2) 2” x 6” @ 69” Top of Headboard and Footboard (add 2" to the measurent taken above)
(6) 2” x 6” @ 57” Joists for the Frame
(2) 2” x 10” @ 83 1/2” Side Rails

Cutting Instructions: 
Make sure that your panel boards measure 7 1/2" wide. If they do not, you will need to add to your panel. The easiest method is to add 1x2 trim to the front and back of the panel, on the ends, on top of the 1x8s. This will create a full frame around the panel and give your bed a more custom look and no one will ever know those 1x8s don't make it to your posts.
Step 1: 

Building the panels.
Start by attatching the 1x8x30" boards to the 1x4x60" as shown in the picture. Butt the 1x8s to get the planked look. Make sure you use 1 1/4" brad nails, at least two nails per board and use wood glue.

Other side of the panel
Flip the panel over and do the other side, as shown. This time use longer nails, between 1 1/2" and 2" (prefered) and glue. Again, make sure you do the two nails per board.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Legs.
Now attatch the 4x4 posts to the panels. Make sure you pre drill half way through the post and use the 4 1/2" screws. Line the top edges of the panel and the post, keeping everything square as shown. Screw into the panel where it is sandwich 3 boards thick. Put at least 6 screws in each post.

Step 3 Instructions: 

2x4 Top. First, line the 2x4x67" up on top of the headboard. I actually recommend you measure the top of the panel and 4x4 posts and make an exact cut instead of just cutting at 67". Then cut the 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4. Use screws to secure the board to the top of the panel, making sure to screw into the posts on both ends. Use glue.

2x6 Top. Then, center the 2x6x70" board on top of the 2x4x67" and screw together. At this point, the headboard should be complete.

Footboard. Put together the footboard using the same steps as 1-7, but with the shorter panel and posts.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Optional Bed Frame if you do not have a box spring. Please also visit the other beds in the collection to see other options for building a bed frame or using a box spring. Construct the frame as shown, leaving a 3 1/2' overhand on the headboard end to secure the frame to the headboard. Predrill to at least 4 holes to in this overhang to ease attatching to the headboard. Space the joists every 16" and use at least 3 screws per joist per side. Pre drill into the last joist to prepare to attatch to the footboard. Use glue. The frame will be attatched as follows.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Attach through the siderails into the headboard posts. Attach the bottom of the bed frame directly into the footboard.

Preparation Instructions: 
Prepare for finish by filling holes, sanding and cleaning all sanding residue from project and work surfaces.
Finish Used: 
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Room: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

See new post on changing the plan to fit a full size mattress. I hope this works for you - please post a photo of the completed project!

Love, Ana

First let me say that I love this site. I have made several things already and keep running across the same issue. Where is everyone getting the 2x lumber. I have lowes and home depot and any 2x4, 2x6, and 2x2 is twisted, knotted and chewed up. Any suggestions? Thank you again anna. My wife thanks you as well!

Hi, I am wanting to make this bed as a Christmas gift for my daughter and already have a full-size mattress. I see a reference to a set of full size dimensions but have not been able to find them. Could you please send me a link as to where I can find them?

Love your site, you have some great ideas. I think I will tackle the farm table as my next project :)

Thanks,
Kelly

Hey there! Ana, I love what you do and I think you are amazing. I am trying to locate the plans for a FULL SIZE FARMHOUSE bed. I have searched several times and can't seem to locate them.
Thanks so much,
Mary King

How does this bed work if you're using a box spring? This will be the first bed I've built, and I'm wondering how you support the box spring without the optional frame, or how you would modify it.

I love this! I have wanted this bed for a while. I need a new bed and wanted the farmhouse one.. but who seriously pays that much?! I considered it, but couldn't bring myself to it. I think me and my husband will try this! Do you have any tips for a california king?

Hi Barton, thanks for the comment! A california king measures 72" wide x 84" long (as opposed to a standard queen of 60x80). To adjust the plan for a california king, you would increase all width measurements by 12" and all length measurements by 4" (length measurements only apply to the frame and the sideboards).

For the panel, I would recommend building the panel 75" wide, using (10) 2x8's cut at 30" for the headboard and 15" for the footboard. Also cut the 1x4 trim boards to 75". Build the panesl at 75", then trim the panels down to 72" by taking 1 1/2" off either side, as demostrated in the post on converting the bed to a full size. This will ensure the boards are centered.

For the greatest success, cut as you go and take exact measurements. Also make sure to fully understand what you are building and why each board is of what length before you begin the project.

Hope this works for you. If you still have questions, please comment and I will post some diagrams to help explain better.

Best Luck! Love, Ana

Hi Boone Family!

The bed shown in the photo is a standard king. The measurements for a standard king are 76x80, meaning the standard king is the same as a queen, just 16" wider. So the frame and the side rails would remain the same, the only difference is you would make the headboard and footboard 16" wider.

What you could do to keep things simple is use 1x10s for the panel instead of 1x8s. Using (8) 1x10s in the panels, the total distance would be exactly 76". Make your cuts for the panel trim (the 8 1x4s) at 76", the 2x4 topper at 83" and the 2x6 overall header at 85".

In the bed in the picture, I ended up using 1x8 T&G leftover from a wood ceiling because it was what I had on hand, but it would be simpler to use the 1x10s.

Just a word of caution, there are actually 4 different types of king mattresses, so be sure to take the exact measurements of your mattress before building anything. Then use the overall width to figure your dimensions.

I hope I haven't confused you further. Let me know if you have any more questions. Best Luck!

Love, Ana

Ok this dont make any since. why dont you just put up the dementions for the king size bed so everyone including me isnt so confused. I would really like to make this bed but your plans are very confusing becausse you have it as a queen and cali king but not for a regular king and your trying to explain it to people but were just not getting it and its more confusing. Please put up the plans and dementions for the regular king,PLEASE!!!!! Thanks

One more thing to the Boone Family -

The black distressed look is one of my absolute favorites! I've done alot of finishes, and the black is beautiful and classic. Once I delivered a furniture order to a retailer, and every black piece was sold within days!

Keep checking back, I will post on how to get that distressed finish.

Love, Ana

Ana,

Do you still accept orders? I've read through this blog and find it inspiring... Although I intend to attempt a few of these projects, was curious if you still sold your work? If so, please advise. Specifically, I was interested in the kid's table - Land of Nod and Thanksgiving table. Please post plans for the chairs or any kid chair, if possible. Would love to order a storage system for my kids' rooms, armoire, and Farmhouse bed (full size). Thanks!! Kathy

Hi Kathy, I would love to work on your order, but we live in Alaska - and the shipping is very expensive. I am not sure it would be economically feasable - this is a big part of the reason I became a furniture builder/designer - Pottery Barn, Restoration Hardware, Crate and Barrel, iKea - no body ships to Alaska!

You can build it, I promise! Just start with an easy project, like a kid's project. Take your time. It's just like quilting or scrapbooking, but 3D and the tools are a little louder. :)

I'm here to help. Just shoot me an email or comment if you have any questions.

Love, Ana

I was so excited to find you blog! We just built a new house and now we can afford to put some furniture in it by building it! :)

How would you construct the canopy for a queen bed? You may have already posted that somewhere, but I didn't see it. Thanks!

And Ammenities - I haven't forgotten about posting plans for a canopy - I'm just thinking about the safest and securest way to build the canopy without requiring special tools. Thank you so much for reading my blog! Ana

Wow! I stumbled on this site just a little while ago and have been enjoying every bit of it! Our home should be completed this Spring, and I've been looking forward to putting furniture in it, but can't afford to buy what I want. Your plans could make those dreams a reality! Unfortunately, my husband isn't "handy" and I didn't grow up building...do you have any recommendations for where/how to learn the basic skills I'll need? Thanks, Ana!

~Kelly

This site is amazing, thank you for all of the effort that you must put into it. One question, is there a particular reason you chose pine? Doesn't that tend to be too soft? Just asking, since I am a complete and utter novice at this.

Thanks!

Hi Bill, Thanks for reading my blog!

I use pine primarily because it's cheap and it's readily available in all kinds of dimensional sizes.

Also, stores like Pottery Barn, West Elm, Restoration Hardware, and others are using lots of pine these days. The rustic modern look is in, and pine is perfect for this type of furniture. Check out Restoration Hardware's Farmhouse Table and Pottery Barn's Hyde Collection, and Sumner Buffet, among many many other pieces. All made of pine.

My house is also made of pine. And all the trim. And doors. And window frames. And yours most likely is too.

I have made lots of furniture with pine, and it lasts just fine. My bed is a few years old, and it's still beautiful, functional, and sturdy.

Pine is also easy to work with because it is softer. Nails don't split the wood. It cuts without burning.

Of course, if you have the money to spend on hardwoods (like maple or oak), buy it. But if you are like me and are very concerned about saving money, pine might just be your choice.

Plywood and MDF are also good choices for tight budgets. There is a post on this in the HOW-TO section.

Whew, I didn't mean to be so long winded!

Ana

Your site is AMAZING:) You are one talented girl!! I can't believe I have just found it but so glad I did. Love the detailed plans... Great Job!!!
~Whitney

Hi Ana!

You have a great site! Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise.

I have been searching for plans on how to make this bed since my wife saw it in the PB catalog as well as the PB store, but we couldn't really justify spending $1600+ on it. :) By chance would you also have the plans or instructions for making the canopy to go with it? It will greatly be appreciated if you do! Thanks again for sharing knowledge with us!

-GT

Hi GT, this is something that has been on my mind for quite some time . . . how to safely build the canopy for the farmhouse bed. I know how I would do it, but I'm reserved about recommending it. What happens if it falls, and someone gets hurt?

The other thing is the posts are tapered, and you need a bandsaw to taper the posts. Of course you could rent a bandsaw or keep the posts untapered.

I am still thinking about this, and will post as soon as I feel right about recommending a plan.

In the meantime, you are going to love the farmhouse bed. It's my bed, and I LOVE IT! I am so happy you stopped by are enjoyed these plans.

Ana,
Thanks for the quick reply, and I totally understand about the safety concerns especially in a lawsuit minded society these days. :) From what I have seen in the PB store and such they're using dowels or hanger bolts to attach them. It's definitely not something you can swing on. :)

In my personal opinion, I would keep the posts straight for an easier build/construction. Not everyone has a woodworking shop like Norm Abrams. :) I think by using at least 5 1/2 inch hanger bolts with tee nuts would be more than sufficient in anchoring the 4 posts. Plus the 4 rails at the top (1x2s) will add stability and strength to them. I think the canopy just add a special look to it and it's not made to be a jungle gym to hang from.:) LOL At least that is how I would approach it.

Thanks again for a great site and providing us with excellent building plans to start from!

-GT

Ana, just stumbled across your site from Ucreate and I am so impressed! Love this Farmhouse bed and have just called my husband from upstairs to show him our next project! Question: do these plans accommodate both the box spring and mattress? I would love to see some plans for a Cal King! Keep up your amazing talent! Thanks so much for sharing!!

Hi Ana,

Since all of the pieces to this bed are nailed or screwed together, did you have to put it together in your bedroom? Will it be ruined if you had to take it apart to move it?

Thanks!

Ana,
I was looking at the picture with the 4x4 leg posts. I do not see any screw holes, what do you use to cover the screw and nail marks?

Wood putty never looks good for me after I paint over it?

Screw Holes. I can see the screw holes, but no one else has ever noticed them. I'm slightly a perfectionist when it comes to my furniture.

From my experience, you need to overfill the screw holes with wood putty. Let dry completely. Then sand evenly. If you do this correctly, you should not even see the screw holes.

If you have a chance, look at the Kids Storage Chair I built. This shows the chair sanded, and the chair was screwed together.

Hi Ana!
First, I just have to say that I LOVE your site and am so glad you have shared your plans! I have not built anything before but can't wait to try a number of your plans!
I just have one question... The tool list says to use a brad nailer...is it possible to just nail the nails in with a hammer? or is it not as good? This is all new to me so I need all the help I can get ;) thanks so much!!!

Hi Laura, I am going to recommend not using a hammer and nails. The biggest reason is that the nails will be very evident because of the larger head size for standard nails. Also, it is very difficult to hold your piece steady and straight while nailing.

If you can get your hands on a nailer, please do. My sister has always hated any DIY and this past week, I had her build with my nailgun. She's in love! It's like hand sewing vs a sewing machine. I'm not saying it cannot be done . . . it's just that you will face a mcuch greater challenge.

You may be able to rent a nailer from Home Depot or Lowes for a day. You can also purchase refurnbished nailers cheap. I've seen a good nailer for as low as $40. But you will also need a air compressor.

I wish you could just come over to my shop and build with me!

Ana

I came across your site from younghouselove.com and fell in love. Your furniture is beautiful.

I have some (perhaps a few!) questions regarding the bed. It looks as though it is meant to be used without a box, is that right? Do you alter it to use a box? How high from the ground do you screw the rails into the head and footboard? How do you recess the screws in the post so you can putty them? And is this a bed that can be taken apart and put back together if we move, do we need to screw new holes?

I'm so excited about this project! Thanks

Hi Kara,

You can use a boxspring if you have one, or if you don't have a box spring, you can add the slats. I suggest looking through the other bed plans to see the different methods for constructing the bed frame. If you have a boxspring, you will simply lower the inside cleats. If you do not have a box spring, then you will need to add the framing. Depending on your desired mattress height, fasten the rails to the footboard and headboard. Make sure you fasten the same height.

You will need to use a countersink bit to hide your screw holes on the 4x4 posts.

You can use the same screw holes for several times over, especially since the screws are so long, but if you plan on assembling and reassembling this bed repeatedly, you should look into purchasing brackets designed for headboards to connect to side rails.

Hope this helps! Ana

This site is amazing! Very excited to get my husband working on our new King bed! You make a great name for women - love your style and energy... fabulous blog!

Just finished making this bed and I just love it. Made a couple of simple mistakes but nothing that coildn't be fixed. Now it is time to paint.

I also just finished making the bed, I used treated 4x4's since the ceder and fir 4x4's were $40 a peice. Wondering if anyone has does this? For they seem pretty wet (not dried out yet) I'm wondering if I paint them (wet) will it affect anything? Rot or discoloring ect...It sure added a lot of weight.

I'm having the same problem - I've called around and Home Depot & Lowes only have TREATED 4x4 posts. The lumber yards only have cedar and fir which are very expensive. Are there any alternatives? Is using treated wood for just the posts a possibility or is there a workaround? Thanks!

From what my friend tells me, you should not use treated because they will shrink and twist. Two bad for me, because I will have to throw the head and foot board in the trash. For they are not coming off.

AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE 4x4 POSTS:

I used 2-2x4s. I was in a fully equipped wood shop so you may not have access to all the tools and machinery. Try to find squared-off ones instead of the rounded ones. I couldn't so I trimmed the rounded edges off with a table saw, making my boards 3x3s when put together. (I don't think it will really matter if they are still rounded, maybe you can use putty in the seam. Somebody correct me if I am wrong on that as I haven't actually done it.)

I then glued two boards together and clamped them over night to dry. Make sure to get glue all over the parts that will touch. Also make sure the edges are flush. Mine were a little off so I sanded them down real well after I scraped the glue off that dripped out. (Dripping glue is good...it means you had enough glue in between the boards!)

I then put my seams facing the sides so they are not as noticeable. If you join the two boards well enough, you won't be able to notice at all. On one leg I had a hard time finding the seams to put on the outside and I was looking for it!

Ana, I hope you don't mind me jumping in here! I almost didn't build a bed because I could not find the 4x4s untreated! I am so glad you told me I could use 2-2x4s!

I just found your blog through Made with love and Glue, and I'm hooked! Thanks so much for this bed tutorial! I really hope my husband can make this for me! I mean us!
And perhaps adapt the design to make a twin size version for my daughter!

First of all, Nice blog, Love it! I just have a one thing. when you select your 1x8 boards you want to try to find 7 1/2" boards. I, not knowing better got 7 1/4 boards and it only came out to 57 3/4" not 60" so the bed turned out a little less wide. Anybody else run into this problem?

Sorry I am a bit confused how to make the box spring work with this bed. It I do 2 X 6 joists my box spring is going to sit about 4 inches above the side rails. Can I use 2 x 4's instead or will that make the bed not strong enough? Also, my box spring is 60 inches wide and the joists are only 57. From side to side of my 4x4s there is 60 inches. I really should have premeasured the box spring, but this is my first project and do not really know what i am doing. I have already built the headboard. Any ideas how to fix this without starting completely over. I would like to hide as much of my box spring as possible since I wont be able to use the dust ruffle anymore.
Thanks for all your plans, I am loving this, hopefully I will start to figure out what I am doing though!
Leslie (sorry I saw afterwords you want them on the blog, not email)

Hi Ana!
I just have a question...
I'm going to start the bed today and it's my first project(so excited!)
I was wondering when you use the brad gun and glue to attach parts of the headboard together, do you have to clamp it? I'm a beginner and am not sure when/if clamping is needed...
Thank you!!

Lauren, my husband is almost finished with our bed, and he didn't clamp anything while he glued/nailed. He said the only thing he thinks you would need to clamp is if you didn't find 4x4's and used 2 2x4s, you'd probably need to clamp those. But we had no problem finding the 4x4's at our home depot.

WOW! Thank you SO MUCH for posting this WONDERFUL plan. I tried to make my own plans on Google Sketch-Up and gave up in frustration, but I am SO THANKFUL to have something to build for my wife on a limited budget that looks so phenomenal! Thank you, thank you!

I am thinking of building just the headboard for this bed. Can I bolt the headboard onto our metal bed frame? How would that best work?

OH MY GOODNESS! I LOVE this bed :D Can you please inform me when you get the plans/dimensions for the king size version because I would love to take a crack at it!

Loving all of your blog, one day when we have a little income, I am going to build a lot of furniture pieces and you will definitely be a HUGE resource!

Thanks!
sun_flower_lin (at) hotmail (dot) com

Hi Ana, I've been following your blog for a few months and you're just so inspiring to me! My next giftie from my husband is going to be a compound mitre saw. He's absolutely delighted that I want a tool that he wants too ;)
For now, though, I just fired an email off to my dad, who has all the woodworking tools one could want, and asked him if he can help me build this farmhouse bed for my hubby for his birthday (in may). I couldn't pick a countersink bit out of a lineup a few weeks ago, but hopefully by May I'll be tossing around carpentry terms like a pro ;) Thanks for your inspiration! (I've also linked to your blog from my sidebar for a while now, too!)

Hi Ana, thanks again for sharing your plans! We went to our Lowe's and purchased our lumber, only a sales associate told us they do not make 4 and a half in screws:(

Was it a lag bolt or a different kind of screw? We can't wait to build this but just don't know which screw to get for that part of the list. If anyone else knows will you email us? girlxmom@yahoo.com

THANKS a million!! love your work!

Hi Ana, love your blog! Forgive me if someone already asked this but would this attach to a simple metal frame, or would I have to adjust the plans? We already have one and in the interest of time and energy I would just as soon attach our metal frame to the head and footboards.

Thanks!
-Melissa

For everyone who has asked about 4 1/2 inch screws, forget Lowe's or Home Depot. Go to Ace or True Value, walked in this morning and in 2 mins i was walking out the door with my nails at .25 a piece.

Does anyone know what the plans for the Farmhouse bed are for using a boxspring and mattress? I can't seem to find this anywhere and the plans appear to not use a box spring which I do not want to get rid of.

Just an update on our bed, we find that the center panels when using the measurements given you will come up with a missing gap that is 1 and 7/8ths inch, we cut a piece that small to fit, also, we couldn't find any 4x4 posts that were not treated, so our only option was to get expensive douglas fir which cost 78 bucks for all 4 posts. Total in lumber the actual cost was 151 in the white wood pine at lowes (the cheapest they had) and the 78 bucks added to that. After materials and paint / stain it will prob. come in right under 300 bucks, which still has saved us a TON:) We are so happy with how it is coming out, minus the short measurements that were easy to fix. Just wish we would have seen another posters comment about 1 x 10 boards instead of the 1 x 8's because we would have had a more uniform center panel with out adding in that small peice where the gap was hehe:) I can't wait to stain it when all is said and done. Still have not found a 4 and a half in. screw, even ace hardware told us they only have lagbolts or nails in that size, so we did a 4 in. screw which worked just as well:)

I think we are doing the toddler bed next:) Thanks agian for your plans!

Hi Ana! I love all of your plans! I am planning on surprising my husband and building him a farm bed for his 30th birthday. Just wondering how you put the headboard and footboard together if you do have a box spring. Sorry, maybe a dumb question, but I am really new to this:) Thanks for all of your great plans!

I'm planning on building this bed for my wife, I'm wondering though about the optional frame you built. I do have a box spring can you either illustrate or explain the difference in building this if I am using a box spring? Thanks!

I started building this bed yesterday and I have finished the panels. Thanks very much for putting the plans together. Just a suggestion, perhaps let people know about nominal dimensions of lumber so that they know that a 1x8 is actually 3/4 x 7 and 1/4 to 7 and 1/2 depending on where you buy and in what country. I was fortunate to find one local lumber yard dumping off 1 x 12's (6 foot lengths) for $4.50 per board. All in good shape with no twisting or checks. These work out to 11 and 1/4 inches each. In order to creat a 60 inch panel, I used 4 pieces of the 1x12 and 5 pieces of 1x4 (I had to cut the 1x4's down to three inches each). I hope to post a photo but what the final panels look like is alternating 1x3 inch boards with 1x 11 and 1/4 boards and I really like the pattern. It truly looks "farmhouse" in the sense that someone in the country might just utilize whatever boards they have laying around... Cheers!

My husband and I are building the bed right now. I am actually sitting in the garage..ha! Just cut out 1x8 for the headboard. They came out too short. Ana, please let everyone know they should look for 7 1/2" wide boards. Ours are 7 1/4" so it's too short. To compensate for the difference of 2 1/8" we are inserting a piece in the middle. Hopefully comes out alright! Thanks for the plans Ana. You rock!

I'm building this with and for my wife for Mother's Day.

We got the lumber yesterday and did all of our cuts.

Just to demonstrate the fruits of all of her cuts, I laid out the pieces for the foot board. That's when I discovered the discrepancy.

My 1x8 are 7 3/16" wide. That comes out to 1 5/8 short of 60".

I thought about just cutting out a sliver to try to hide in the end, but then I stumbled on the idea of alternating panel sizes.

5 * 7.1875" + 4 * 6" = 59.94"

So where X = 7.1875" and Y = ~6.07" my panels will look like:

X|Y|X|Y|X|Y|X|Y|X

When it comes together in reality, I expect I'll have just a touch of overhang which I'll just sand down to square it up with the 1x4x60's.

I'm new to woodworking, but the engineer inside of me says lumber is an excellent use case for the metric system.

And if we won't go metric, let's at least bring back parity between "dimensional" nomenclature and nominal measurement. Innit?

* 6.07 effectively equivalent to 6 1/16

I am really having fits over trying to adjust this plan to be a daybed for my son's extra long twin. Could you please help me out with the measurements for the length of the boards between the 4 x 4's if I need the cleats to support a mattress that is 78"x38"??
I would really appreciate any help you could give me on this. I already made the upholstered beds for my two other sons and they look fab!

I have a quick question for you! I am ALMOST done, but I'm not sure how to fasten the very top piece of the head/foot boards.
I was not able to find 4 1/2 " screws, but I did find 5" ones. So would I just drill the 5" screws into the top piece, above the 4x4 posts but not in the middle/panel area? Perhaps use the smaller screws in the middle on top of the panel?

Thanks again Ana for all the inspiration you give!

Yes, PLEASE update these plans to let people know the 1x8 is too short, and to use 1x10 instead for the planks. Our headboard came up too short also. We had to find some random piece of wood to make up for the gap. It worked, but I hate that it is a skinny piece and does not match the lovely wide 1x8 planks.

Ana, can you explain how the bed frame attaches behind the footboard?

Also, do you think this could covert easily with the loft plans?
I am trying to squeeze 3 grandkids in the same room!
Thanks Sally

Sally, the easiest way is to simply screw through the last "stud" in the bed frame directly into the footboard. You will want to use 2" screws. It's super easy. And yes, you could simply extend the 4x4 posts to create a loft bed (but we do have a few loft bed plans online too!). If you are interested in building this, I highly recommend research ALL of the Farmhouse beds, because I purposely designed plans slightly different to give you options when building. Good luck with your project!

Thanks Ana, I am making it either tonight or tomorrow. I just bought the lumber for $221. I bought grade A Eastern Pine.
I am slight altering one detail...I bought 6" hanging joists, (.84 cents each) - like you would use for a deck - for the bed frame, rather than run screws from the outside. 2 reasons...I think fastening the joist to the side rails will make it super easy to assemble once painted and all parts are in the room and also a little easier to disassemble if I ever have to move it!
I am planning on taking pictures along the way...I'll keep you all posted on how it goes.
Ana thanks again for such easy to follow plans!

Question regarding 4 1/2" SCREWS--

I picked up all the lumber for the bed. Now I just need to know what I need for screws. Are they lag bolts? Any help is appreciated.

I saw this question a few times but didn't see an answer. Sorry if I missed it somewhere.

Thanks so much Ana!

Hi! Thanks so much for the plans! I love this bed and hopefully will be making one soon!

My husband and I went to Lowes to check out the wood and see if it was possible for us to do. When we went to the first thing on the list was the
(4) 1” x 8” x 8’ Pine Board $24 (For Panels) At Lowes they were around $20 for one of the boards.
So my question is, where did you get your wood?

Thank You! e-mail me or repost here.
ladyplz(at)gmail(dot)com

Christi, check the "whitewood" boards section. It's pine that hasn't been sanded and has knots in it for that rustic character. Should be half the cost or less.

Anna we need you!! Building the full Farmhouse bed and have the headboard, footboard and slats cut but having trouble figuring out the boxspring issue! I am so worried about supporting that mattress and boxspring. Just screw cleats into the bottom inside of the siderail and lay boards across? Is it that easy?

Kat, if you have a boxspring, it's even easier - you can skip the slats. Without a box spring, you will need to lay slats according to your mattress recommendation for spacing. The cleats are very strong and with glue and screws, actually become integrated with those siderails. Good luck with your project! Ana

Ana,
Awesome plans. I am very excited to build one of these. I too want to build for a king sized bed. In the plans, it mentions checking other beds for options with frame/box springs. My set will have a 5.5 inch high box spring. What modifications can/should i make to these plans--I wouldn't mind utilizing the side rail/cleat system under the box springs as it should be pretty solid. It's nice to know that making solid wood furniture with just basic tools really is not out of reach for most people!
Thank you again

To those who had questions about the king dimensions: What worked for me was using 10 pieces of the 1x8 (mine was actually 7.25 inches!!) and 1x4 on each end...it came out to 79 7/8 inches...almost 80..i just modified the 1x4s to the exact same length.

My bed will fit right around my metal king bed frame. The bed is 76 wide, the frame is 76.25 with a widening at the end that goes to 77.5. I'll have about an inch to spare around the sides, the front and back don't matter because the frame is actually shorter than the bed...

Panels made today--waiting on 4x4 posts (which my lumber yard DOES normally carry-but were out today)..and I had to rob 1 1x4 to make the width come out. Therefore, i must wait..but it looks awesome so far!!!

I would also recommend "dry fitting" the cut pieces to make the panels to make SURE you are getting the width (or close to it!) that you want...once you see it's the right dimension, then go ahead and glue it up and nail it together.

I also used torx screws on the BACK side of the headboard panel to ensure stability..2 inchers will do nicely, plunging into all 3 layers of wood..

I love this bed! You are such an inspiration.

I would love to make this bed with hardwood panels (not MDF) instead of boards. I just don't know how or what size panels to use. I saw that some of your reader photos had panels instead of vertical boards and I wondered if they could tell us their dimensions and cut list!

Thanks,
Katie

I'm so excited to have found your site! I have just sent my hubby 3 of your tables that I'm choosing between, and a headboard plan... but now I found this whole bed and I want to build it, too! I can't wait to get started on your projects!

Is there somewhere on this site that has the plans for this bed in a King? Thanks so much, Ana!

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