Farmhouse Queen Plans

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Keywords: 
farmhouse bed, ana white, pottery barn, diy, bed made of 2x4
Dimensions: 
Dimensions fit a standard Queen Mattress 60" x 80"

(4) 1” x 8” x 8’ Pine Board (For Panels)
(8) 1” x 4” x 8’ Pine Board (Trim for Panels)
(2) 4” x 4” x 8’ Beam (Posts)
(2) 2” x 4” x 8’ Boards (Top of Panels, you can use 2x4 studs)
(8) 2” x 6” x 8’ Boards (Top of headboard and footboard, joists for bed frame, you can use 2x6 studs)
(2) 2” x 10” x8’ Boards (Siderails)
(2) 4’ x 8’ x 1/2'” Plywood (For the frame if you do not have a box spring)
(1) Gallon Paint
(20) 4 1/2" screws
(50) 3" screws
(100) 1 1/4" brad nails for nailer Wood Glue

Common Materials: 
wood glue
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
safety glasses
circular saw
nailer
sander
Cut List: 

(8) 1” x 8” @ 30” Headboard Panel
(8) 1” x 8” @ 15” Footboard Panel
(8) 1” x 4” @ 60” Trim for Panels
(2) 4” x 4” @ 54” Headboard Post
(2) 4” x 4” @ 21” Footboard Post
(2) 2” x 4” @ 67” Top of Panels and Posts (recommend taking an exact measurement before cutting)
(2) 2” x 6” @ 69” Top of Headboard and Footboard (add 2" to the measurent taken above)
(6) 2” x 6” @ 57” Joists for the Frame
(2) 2” x 10” @ 83 1/2” Side Rails

Cutting Instructions: 
Make sure that your panel boards measure 7 1/2" wide. If they do not, you will need to add to your panel. The easiest method is to add 1x2 trim to the front and back of the panel, on the ends, on top of the 1x8s. This will create a full frame around the panel and give your bed a more custom look and no one will ever know those 1x8s don't make it to your posts.
Project Type: 
Room: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 
Estimated Cost: 
Style: 
General Instructions: 

In addition to the standard instructions, make sure you also read through all the other Farmhouse Bed Plans. I tried to integrate different techniques in the different plans to help you build your best possible bed. Good luck!

Step 1

Building the panels.
Start by attatching the 1x8x30" boards to the 1x4x60" as shown in the picture. Butt the 1x8s to get the planked look. Make sure you use 1 1/4" brad nails, at least two nails per board and use wood glue.

Other side of the panel
Flip the panel over and do the other side, as shown. This time use longer nails, between 1 1/2" and 2" (prefered) and glue. Again, make sure you do the two nails per board.

Step 2

Legs.
Now attatch the 4x4 posts to the panels. Make sure you pre drill half way through the post and use the 4 1/2" screws. Line the top edges of the panel and the post, keeping everything square as shown. Screw into the panel where it is sandwich 3 boards thick. Put at least 6 screws in each post.

Summary: 

My bed is my favorite piece of furniture I have ever built. My farmhouse bed has all the top qualities of a Knock-Off Wood furniture plan: cheap, easy, fast, beautiful, simple, durable, no special tools required. And did I mention that this bed is solid wood? Nope, no MDF in this bed. I have since made several Farmhouse beds, and am always very happy with this particular furniture plan.I spent a total of $120 on this bed, using some scraps, leftover paint, and off the shelf lumber.

Step 3

2x4 Top. First, line the 2x4x67" up on top of the headboard. I actually recommend you measure the top of the panel and 4x4 posts and make an exact cut instead of just cutting at 67". Then cut the 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4. Use screws to secure the board to the top of the panel, making sure to screw into the posts on both ends. Use glue.

2x6 Top. Then, center the 2x6x70" board on top of the 2x4x67" and screw together. At this point, the headboard should be complete.

Footboard. Put together the footboard using the same steps as 1-7, but with the shorter panel and posts.

Step 4

Optional Bed Frame if you do not have a box spring. Please also visit the other beds in the collection to see other options for building a bed frame or using a box spring. Construct the frame as shown, leaving a 3 1/2' overhand on the headboard end to secure the frame to the headboard. Predrill to at least 4 holes to in this overhang to ease attatching to the headboard. Space the joists every 16" and use at least 3 screws per joist per side. Pre drill into the last joist to prepare to attatch to the footboard. Use glue. The frame will be attatched as follows.

Step 5

Attach through the siderails into the headboard posts. Attach the bottom of the bed frame directly into the footboard.

Finishing Instructions

Finish Used: 
I gave this bed an Antique White finish, but have done natural wood and other colors with the same success. I choose to distress this bed by lightly sanding outside edges. I also ran a flat bladed screwdriver down any groves in the planks to highlight the planking in the panel.
Preparation Instructions: 
Prepare for finish by filling holes, sanding and cleaning all sanding residue from project and work surfaces.

Comments

I'm so excited to have found your site! I have just sent my hubby 3 of your tables that I'm choosing between, and a headboard plan... but now I found this whole bed and I want to build it, too! I can't wait to get started on your projects!

Is there somewhere on this site that has the plans for this bed in a King? Thanks so much, Ana!

[...] we still need to work at building the drawers.  I also absolutely fell in love with Ana’s Farmhouse bed, so of course I had Ryan build the headboard for our new bed (the footboard is yet to come).  [...]

Help! I am trying to make a full size bed. I will use a box spring. How do I do this? Seems like 2x4 or 2.6 is overkill. Anyone done the bed and use a boxspring and can help me with the boards and cuts?

Thanks so much!

So I want to use our box spring with this plan and I re did the plan in google sketch up just to make sure I understood everything before I actually started buying and cutting wood... and I just wanted to see what you thought about my idea... I measured our entire mattress set... (box springs and mattress) and it is 20 inches tall. So I measured from the top of the pink piece (where the box spring sits) of wood in the image above (in my plan in goolge sketch up... that is with the green piece 10 inches off the floor) and it seems like I would basically loose the headboard behind my mattress and box springs... I hope that all makes sense... should I just make the posts taller to compensate for the box spring being at the level where the mattress usually would sit in these plans? like make my posts 9 inches taller because that is how tall my box spring is? Would that look funny? and Would I also have to make the foot board 9 inches bigger all around so it didn't look silly? Please email me back I am trying to figure this out!

Ha! I was just thinking today... now how I'm going to work this with a box spring... THANKS ANA, perfect timing!

PS - for those of you looking for the 4 1/2" screws, HD has 4 3/4" which work great. They are near the decking screws and come in packs of 8, need 3 packs for maximum support.

[...] Now we can make one of our own at a fraction of the cost! This bed was made for $129.00 Visit Ana White’s site for the complete information. The Farmhouse bed pattern is here Read more from Bedroom Furniture [...]

[...] Now we can make one of our own at a fraction of the cost! This bed was made for $129.00 Visit Ana White’s site for the complete information. The Farmhouse bed pattern is here Read more from Bedroom Furniture [...]

[...] I always feel like queen comforters are too small for queen beds. This summer I want to build this farmhouse bed from Ana White, with a few alterations. And I’ll probably repaint our room because I want to [...]

I had the same issue. I finished building the headboard last night, and the middle panel piece doesn't look that bad actually.

We are almost done with ours..including the box spring. We did some changes like attatching the side rails to the front of the 4x4 posts, because it wasn't big enough for our box spring the way the plans listed. We then lowered the inside frame to the very botton of the side rails. We did some modifications on bolts, and strength too. We drilled out 1.5 in holes and filled them with dowel to screw the bolts into because it didn't seem strong enough for the box spring and the wood is really heavy. We are almost done and I am a little sad that we had to make so many changes to make it strong enough and to fit our mattress set. I am also really disappointed that the foot board is so low. But at this point there is not much we could do without taking the whole footboard apart. I would make the 4x4's for the footboard alot taller if I was doing it again, it looks really low with the box spring, not what I wanted at all. I'll post a picture in a few weeks when it's all done.

I think I am going to build this bed. We just upgraded to a Queen foam sans box spring and this will work out great. Good feedback from those who have found minor flaws on the plans.
Thanks Ana for the great DIY plans.
I continue to update and post some final pics.

Ana,
Question. If we foresee the need to disassemble the bed every so often what would you recommend for attaching the support joists to the side rails?
Here is what I was thinking for the head/foot boards and side rails.
Use bed rail fasteners for the side rails to head board and foot board and using a surface mounted keyhole bed rail bracket for the support joists.

I am going to make this frame for a foam mattress. I was thinking of recessing the support rails about an inch to lock the bed into the frame so it wouldn't slide off. Do you think I should put plywood down on top of the support rails?
I live in a small island town in Alaska so I'm not sure what the local hardware store carries yet but I found some good products on www.rockler.com.
Thanks Ana.

I don't own and I have a deck that I could work on to put this bed together and to stain it. BUT, I don't have anything to cut with. Do you know if Home Depot or Lowe's would cut it for me, if I showed them the cut list? Does anyone know? I REALLY need a new bed frame and this looks just like the one I want. I heard Lowe's would cut it for me but is this a rumor? Does anyone know? Thanks!!

[...] of the new bed Added Jan 6, 2011, Under: Family For  a while now I have had my eye on this farmhouse bed.  It was perfect, beautiful, everything I wanted in a bed.  The only problem was that I had to [...]

I love this bed! My husband and I were going to buy this one at World Market for our 2nd bedroom/guest bedroom: http://www.worldmarket.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3909405 but after finding this Queen Farm House bed, we are looking forward to building it!

Also, I love the little red night table, any idea if there are plans for that here or where I might find something similar??

Thanks! And thank you for building this website, you are SO talented!

Liliana

I could not find non pressure treated 4x4 posts either without spending A LOT on Fir or Cedar. I decided just to use the PT, and wait a couple months before painting them. Are other folks finding non PT 4x4s?

Yes, both lumber stores I went to carried non-PT posts. I would suggest paying the big bucks for the cedar. It will pay off in the long run by not having to see the pressure treatment scars every time you pass your bed! Just my thoughts on your predicament...good luck.

[...] most of us are drawn into woodworking, she wanted furniture for her home. It all began with a Farmhouse Bed. White's projects are completely spelled out for you. She has a materials list and an estimated [...]

Could this bed be easily changed to look simmilar to PB's Hudson by replacing the panels with a high quality 1 inch plywood and some quarter round trim? Has anyone tried it? I'm dying to get the hudson bed but my budget would never allow it, and when I saw these plans I had hope... here is the PB bed I was talking about: http://www.potterybarn.com/products/hudson-bed-dresser-set/?pkey=cbed-dr...

Some of you have been asking about the illusive 4.5" screws.  I also went to HD and Lowes and found that they don't exist, so I went to my local hardware store and asked them what to do.  They handed me some 4.5" lag screws (with hex heads) and told me that they would be easier, and I had no idea what they meant by that until I actually assembled my bed.

Heres what I found (the hard way):
1.  You need 24 of them, not 20 (6 in each post times 4 posts).  You might even want to get some extra to attach the side rails since they are so strong and you'll already have the hang of it.
2.  You also need: a socket wrench and a hex bit to fit your lag screws (both a manual one and an electric bit).  ALSO, you need a flat drill bit that will be wide enough to allow your socket wrench to fit inside your hole.
2. Pre drill about an inch deep using a flat drill bit.  After your first hole, make sure you can fit your socket wrench in there!  If not, use a bigger drill bit.
3. Start screwing your lag in with the electric drill until it wimps out.
4. Tighten by hand with socket wrench.
5. Save your sawdust and mix with wood glue into a nice paste, and fill your holes.  Wait a couple of hours and sand it flat, filling any remaining dimples or grooves with wood filler and sand when that is dry.
Would regular 4.5" screws be better if you could find them?  I don't think they are as strong, personally.  This wood is so heavy... 
Thanks for the plans Ana!  Can't wait to finish my guest bed!!!!

Hi Ana,

I just love, love, love, your site! Thank you for all you do on here, it's so helpful to me and it saves me so much money!

I was wondering if you had plans to do this bed in a Twin XL. I have 2 boys that are really tall and they are in desperate need of new beds! We were going to purchase these Pottery Barn Beds (http://www.pbteen.com/products/guys-beadboard-basic-bed-and-trundle/?lin...), but I actually like your bed better! I showed my husband (who can build... with instructions :) and he thinks we might be able to do this. We would love to give it a try, but are unsure what the dimensions would be for the size we would like. Like I said, we would love to have Twin XL beds with a box spring. Would you be able to send me the materials, cut list, and instructions for this size?

Thank You So Very Much,
Sarah M.

I would really like to make this bed but we'll be moving fairly soon - how can I make this so it can come apart to move and get in and out of houses, and still be sturdy and look nice?

Thanks so much!

Rockler sells bed brackets that let you securely and non-permanently attach the rails to the head and foot board.  By far the easiest route.

The second, more traditional route is to cute a mortise through the legs and build the rails long enough that they go all the way through, and leave a little bit of room to wedge them with a key mortise on the other side.

A little bit of google-fu (and the fact that I grew up around woodworkers, so knew the terminology) found this for a good example of what I mean: http://books.google.com/books?id=0vkDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA49&lpg=PA49&dq=throug...

It's something I wouldn't be afraid to tackle, but probably shouldn't be your first build.

Also, don't be intimidated by looking at that magazine and think that you need to be a middle-aged man with a beard to do "serious" woodworking.  My mom was a woodworker for years, and has never been either bearded or a middle aged man.

The plans involving the 4x4 posts / queen sized farmhouse bed are ill thought out.

The problem being, if you build the head/foot boards to the specs, the 4x4s are 60" apart.  The exact size of the 60" queen mattress/box spring.  However, when you affix the 2x10 side rails, to the inside of the 4x4 posts, suddenly you lose 1.5" on each side (width of the 2x10s) and hence neither the box spring or mattress will fit.

So unless you want to just plop a large piece of ugly plywood down ontop of the whole thing, you have to find a way to chisel/route out slots in the 4x4s in the head board, and do god only knows what to make the foot board end work.

So if you want to make a queen sized farmhouse, i strongly suggest just scaling down the dimensions of the king that Ana designed so well, or if you must use the 4x4s, make your headboard/footboard 3" wider.  (measure your 2x10s to be sure they are indeed 1.5" thick, if they are not, then double their thickness and add that to the head/foot boards)

I discovered this only after making the entire head board and foot boards. Needless to say, i'm extremely angry that after spending $200 on wood/supplies and hours of work.

(1) If you're just using a mattress (no box spring), the slats that hold up the mattress should be afixed so the tops are at the same height as the side rails. The mattress isn't bound by the side rails and can just sit atop the whole base.

(2) If you plan to incorporate your box spring, attach 2x4s to the inside of the 4x4 posts. The 2x4s will hold up the box spring and the 2x10s (length stated in cut list) can be nailed to the outside of the 2x4s and will serve a decorative function only.

Both of the above methods are stated by Ana herself, one in her plans, the other in a comment listed before yours. Your problem sounds like a reading error instead of a design error to me. Hope this helps.

hi ! we're making this bed for our daughter, in the full size version, and cannot find 4 1/2" screws ANYWHERE ! all our lumber and all the other supplies are bought already, we even bought an air compressor and a realllly expensive nail gun for this project.. dont know what to do now that we cant find nails that size.. please help !

has the plans for the bed been fixed about the discrepancy on the 1x8's not fitting and the mattress not fitting correctly or are they still incorrect?

Also to chime in with the crowd... could I just screw in my metal frame or would that ruin the bed or show through?

Just make the frame (joists) a little wider and the rails a little shorter, so you can attach to the front of the 4x4's, instead of the inner sides. It's just as easy. or if you haven't started, go ahead and extend the headboard. I admit I made the king, not the queen, but I found some great brackets from Rokler, that I'm going to attach to the front, not the sides, so it's easy to collapse to move.

Ana -

I've been rummaging through my old barn and have discovered a treasury of old wood! I was wondering, for the sideboards, can I use 1x10s or does it need to be a 2x10?

Thanks,

Ashley

1*10s might be a bit thin if actually using to support the mattress\boxspring but if just decorative I don't see why they would not work.

R

I have just started this project in Queen size. Being an apartment dweller with lots of restrictions on what we can do, I went over to a friends to do the cutting of the lumber. While visiting both the Orange Box and Blue Box building supply stores I was a bit surprised to find that 8" boards measured in at 7 1/4". So I have to go back and pick up some 1/4 inch filler. I am thinking Dowels or something similar to give a bit of a beaded look between the boards. Just need to get the Side Boards and Hangers before I have everything to complete it. Keep up the great site!

Hey everyone, I'm in the process of building this bed, cost me just $300.00 (I live in Canada so prices on lumber may differ substantially). I just wanted to mention to all who are considering building this bed that YOU DO NOT USE PRESSURE TREATED 4X4 as the chemicals used in pressure treating can be very harmful and nasty (even if you get a sliver you can get a bad infection). They use arsnic and other harmful substances so I just thought I would put that out there. You can get untreated 4x4's...just ask for them at your lumber store!

Hi Ana,

We LOVE your blog. We just started building, and I've even got my mother hooked with plans of things to build! We started making the farmhouse queen this weekend and are staining it a dark walnut colour using minwax. It looks great, but there is no sheen at all and I'd like a more 'finished' look. I'm hesitant to use polyurethane due to the toxins, and am considerin watco teak oil. What is your experience with finishing stained pine products? Are there any alternatives that you can recommend that would be less toxic but still seal and give a bit of a shine?

Thanks,
Amy

Hi Amy,
We have used AFM Safecoat sealant on other wood projects and also plan to use it on the bed. It leaves a slightly shiny surface and seems to protect well although we just recently tried it. I would recommend giving that a try, they have a good reputation for being low toxicity and environmentally responsible.
shelli

I know I'm missing it. Surely, the instructions to adapt this for king size (and king size WITH box springs) is here, and I'm just missing it. So, will someone hold my hand and show me where those are? Please?

Love your site!

Hi Ana!!! I stumbled upon this bed and LOVE it!!!! My son is taking furniture making this year in school and has agreed to make this bed for me!!!! I am SO excited! Can you please tell me if you have the plans in King Size? If you could email them to me that would be AWESOME! I love all your work!

Thanks!

Myn

I heard about your site from my sister and I love it. I am going to build a queen and was wondering what would you recommend for wood and what do I need to use for the black look cause I was looking at something someone else posted and she said it did not turn out so I am a little worried.
Sara

We are almost done with our second farmhouse queen - one for us and one for the guest bedroom. This was my first woodworking project ever, and my husband's first big project. I plan to make a brag post when we get them stained. I just wanted to echo others' suggestions about reading all the comments and ideally, all of the plans for the various sizes before diving in.

We did come up with a great solution for making the bed easier to take apart for moving. We used Rockler Heavy Duty Wrought Steel Bed Fasteners to attach the frame to the headboard. However, this added a few hours to the construction time of the first bed (including brainstorming) and we expect it to add about 2-3 hours to the construction of the second bed, now that we've done it before. We had to borrow a router and learn to use that, and it takes a lot of precise measurements. However it seems very sturdy, we've been sleeping on ours for about a month without concern, and it comes apart relatively easily.

Thank you, Ana, for the great plans! We love how these have come out and are already starting on our next project!

I just finished making the queen bed and I had to say Im impressed! Very sturdy! I did run into a problem with the length of the 1x8 making the headboard, and them not being long enough or in the case wide enough. I quickly solved the problem by using pencils to create a gap between the boards on the headboard to make up that space. Turned out pretty good! There is one that is off but you can only tell if you built the bed. No one will notice! Hope this helps!

I don't know how else to contact the wonderful Ana, so I will simply comment here.

I think this is a wonderful site. The plans are simply to follow and give newbies like me the confidence to try new things. Do you have a section, or you could create a section that explains/ shows how to do some of the basics or explains the terms. Things like counter sink and butt (terms I do not know) are the only things keeping me from making any of these amazing projects . . . . :D

Hello. She responds more readily on Facebook under her page called Knock-Off Wood which this website used to be called. On this site, go under Community for answers to a bunch of your questions. There are also some articles listed under "Also of Interest" in the left column. Jump right in. I hesitated for quite some time and then once I started, was sorry I waited so long! Happy building!

Ana,
Thank You So Very Very Much for these plans!! I printed them out and asked for this to be my Christmas present. Hubby had already made the bedside table for my birthday..
My bed is now finished and I'm just waiting for Christmas!! The bed is absolutely beautiful and I want to thank you for making my Christmas extra Special this year! Love your site!! Hubby also made your wrapping station for me :)
You are a very Special Lady :) Thanks for sharing :)

Ana,

I am done with my Headboard and the footer for my king bed that you have here. However, do you have any plans for how to make the frame for the box springs and mattress? I see them for the queen but not for the king. I don't wanna just "wing it" and try to come up with something. any help would RULE! LOVE the site and can't wait to build more stuff.

What is the measurement between the top of the side rails and the bottom of the headboard?
If you've already answered this, I'm sorry-I did look through all the plans, honest :)

How precisely are we supposed to attach the posts in step 2? We literally just drill into the section of the head/footboard where it is three boards thick? Do we then use wood putty to cover up where the screws are? How do we make sure the screws don't go into the (4) nails which were put in in previous steps?

Also, how are we supposed to attach the frame to the footboard.

Are there more detailed plans available via google sketchup?

This blog is awesome, its really cool to see all these detailed plans and people's stories... keep up the great work all and thank you very much!

Brad

Love this bed design but wondered how to modify so the top of the mattress would not be lying flat but rather elevated 2-3" higher than the foot of the mattress. My husband has GERD and this is what his doctor recommends and how we have our bed presently. Thanks Ana for your wonderful designs!

I hope this question hasn't already been answered through other comments. I am getting ready to start this project but we do have a box spring for our mattress, so how does this need to be modified to work with that?

If you have a box spring, or anything else than changes the height, you can compensate by moving the support rails up or down appropriately. The best solution is to figure out how high you want the top of the bed to be. Then measure the thickness of the stack you're going to be sleeping on, i.e. box spring, mattress, futon. Subtract the height of the mattress stack from the desired bed height, and that's where the top of the support slats should be.

The height that I might find comfortable for a bed is very different than the height my mother in law would like, since we have a twelve inch difference in height.

Myself, I really like to be able to sit with my feet on the floor at the edge of the bed. Can't do that with my current bed arrangement, but that's what I really like for bed height.

Ana, my wife just turned me on to your web site and she sold me on building this beautiful farmhouse bed. I will be building it in king but i am trying to figure out how to use it with the split box spring that i currently have. I saw your design for a single box spring in queen, how would i modify this to fit our needs. Thanks much in advance, cant wait to start building.

Hi there! I have never built anything like this but am going to give it a shot this weekend. For step one I wondering if I can use screws instead of nails? I do not have a nail gun, and my boyfriend pointed out that it is easier to take things apart that are make with screws if a mistake is made. As I am BRAND NEW to this kind of stuff I would really appreciate advice! Thanks so much, and thanks to the talented Ana for sharing this site with us!! It's amazing!

I'd hammer in the morning, and get a lot of complaints from my wife about all the racket. Also, she doesn't like it when I sing Woodie Guthrie songs.

But seriously, you don't need an air nailer to use nails. A good 16oz hammer and a nail set will work just fine. Just avoid the temptation to think "I'm only a girl, I should buy a small hammer." The bigger the hammer, the easier the nails are to drive. A 12oz hammer for driving nails will make you sore and mad. Also look for one with a smooth face on the hammer, rather than a waffle face.

You should also pick up nail sets, which are used to drive the nail heads below the surface.

Thanks for your advice. I decided to go ahead and pick up a hammer and I've had great success! My bed is almost finished, I just need to paint it. Thanks for your encouragment :)

I plan on trying this plan for my guest room. I have one question. How easy is this bed frame to break down in order to move after being built ? I tend to redecorate often. I dont want to have to unscrew a lot of screws just to move to another room.

Hey Ana,

My husband and I are celebrating our 23rd wedding anniversary next weekend and I've decided that I'm going to make this bed as my gift to him. (Yep, I'm a last minute kind of person!) We've gone back and forth from Queen to King size beds and have never had a nice head/foot board.

I just ventured to my local orange store armed with my pick list. (I found 4 x 4 doug-fir posts with no problem here in Utah). For years now I've been a wanna-be furniture builder! I'm going to do this!

I'm super stoked but feeling a bit nervous too. My husband and I absolutely love the natural grain and textures in wood and I know he's going to love this bed.

I would have never dared this type of venture without your support Ana.

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with all of us wanna-bee's!!!

God gives us talents to share and promises to bless us with more talents if we do....you much be a Goddess by now with all of the sharing you've done!

Gratefully yours,
Darcie in Utah

OK so several of you have mentioned that this is your first real woodworking project....if so I can't be the only one having problems.
First of all, how the heck to I keep everything square? Ive tried the 3 4 5 method, measured criss-cross from corner to corner, and even used a small square when attaching each board on the headboard & foot board. Everything still ended up not being exactly lined up and it's driving me crazy! Ive taken apart and redone the different components on this thing several times now.
Ive added trim and it hides some of the unsightly mishaps. but now I'm having a heck of a time getting the lag screws drilled straight from the 4 x 4's into the 3-layered panel pieces!
Yes, I've already admitted that this is my first real project but dang-it I want this to look good!
I know that Ana's knowledge could never be transposed into text onto this project plan but surely someone can shed some light on getting nice straight drilled holes! I didn't think this would be so awkward. They keep ending up slightly angled and coming out the middle of my panel. Also, the 4 x 4 isn't cinching up tightly against the panel...??

Had to modify the plans slightly for my purposes. Being military, I move around a lot. Instead of 4x4s, I used 2 2x4s for the posts, but I cut a space 8" up and left room for the side rail to fit in to the footboard and rest flush with the outside of the post. Same with the posts of the headboard. The side rails have a 2x2 cleat running along the entire length, which cuts out the joists for slats- and if need be I can add slats later, so the box-spring fits snug between the rails. The side rails are fastened to the headboard and footboard with 5/16" lag bolts, and all that is needed to disassemble is to remove the 4 bolts and the bed comes apart like a puzzle into two siderails, headboard, and footboard. Your plans are always a great starting point for me, and the way they are put together leaves plenty of room for modification. Thanks!

I was wondering what kind of paint you used to paint the bed? We have painted furniture before, however, the paint we used yellowed.

someone who has made this already may be able to help.

How do I make sure my screws go through my post and hit the 3/4 inch board on the other side? I may be making a silly mistake, but i have tried measuring twice and have missed the boards and ruined my posts twice . . . . . was feeling so accomplished up until this point. Any advice would help.

From how I read the instructions (and how I did mine) you are only supposed to screw the 4 1/2 screws into the posts where the boards are sandwiched 3 thick, not in the middle sections where the 4x4 meets with your 1x8 (or 3/4 inch board, as you say). I put 3 screws to the top section that is sandwiched and 3 screws to the bottom section that is sandwiched, making a total of 6 screws per 4x4 post. If everything is square, there won't be a gap (or at least a very minimal one) in the middle section where your 4x4 post meets the 1x8 board.

Hope that helps.

Ana, thinking about building this for my wife, but I'm confused about how the side rails attach to the foot board. I see that for the head board, they just slide in on the inside of the 4x4s under the paneling. For the foot board, do they butt up against the paneling on the inside? Is there enough 4x4 to grab inside the paneling? Thanks!

Just was wondering if you'd thought of doing plans for a matching dresser and chest of drawers? This bed plan is fabulous and will be perfect for the look of my master bedroom!

Hi Ana, this is an amazing site.....I am so grateful I found you....I have one question: is this bed a platform bed or can you use box springs and mattress? Thank you...

Should I use Pocket holes to attach the legs to the panels? We recently built a bed for my son so I'm really into using the Kreg Jig if possible.

Ana (or whoever might can help):

I'm having trouble when screwing my 4x4 posts to the panels. I'm getting a gap between them, and it might not be extremely noticeable, but I can actually see the screw in the gap. I am putting one end of the panel against a door, then I'm using a drill and pushing from the outside of the post into the panel. I thought by having a backstop and putting pressure against the post while drilling, I would avoid making a gap. I'm fairly certain I'm doing something wrong.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Not sure exactly where the gap is but sounds like maybe your panels were not a full 6". I had a similar issue and just used some 1x2s to bridge the gap. If its not that big of a gap then you may also be able to use some wood filler to fill it. Hope that helped..

Curious when screwing in post for legs do you drill 6 screws I'm line going down or in groups of 2s and does it matter ... Never built anything like this and willing to try can't find a twin bed I like for my girls

We are working on this bed right now. We have a king so we went with 1x8 (which are really only 7 1/4) but did 11 panels. It will work out perfectly because you need a little extra space for the side rails to go on the inside of the headboard. I am thinking of getting some side rail brackets so it makes taking apart and putting back together easier (although I never plan on moving but we will be replacing our carpet sometime in the near future). We are also making our headboard just a few inches shorter so it will look better under our window and making the footboard a little taller so the top of the footboard is above the mattress.

My wife found this and had me go to work, hasn't been to hard, although the more precision and high quality wood you put into it the better the result. Looking forward to finishing soon, can't wait to start the next project

Hi! We are in the midst of building the king size bed and we are at a total loss. How do you attach the bed rails to the 4x4 posts? The actual pictures we saw, had the rails perpendicular to the 4x4 posts. How in the world did you do that? We want to finish this tomorrow so there is no time to order specialized products.

We are using slats because we do not have a box spring.

Suggestions? Attach to the inside of the post instead? Help... Pretty please.. and thank you for the great site!

I'm no expert, but I think if you attach the rails to the inside of the post, your box spring (if you are using one) would not fit properly. The only thing I can think is to cut out space from the post large enough to nestle the siderail into, or (like you stated you don't want) get some hardware. I think you should order the hardware, it's easy to attach and it make your bed mobile if necessary.

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Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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