Farmhouse Bed with Arch

If you do not have a box spring, you can screw 2x2s or 2x4s with 1" space between each as slats to rest your mattress on. Just cut the slats at 60 1/2" and lay perpendicular to the cleats, and screw into the cleats from the top. Just saved you $500 dollars!

Ana, thank you for sharing your amazing talent! I love furniture and I love to make stuff. I am so grateful that you are sharing your talent with all of us! I cant wait to start bulding some furniture, specially this farmhouse bed that I could never afford store-bought!

hey, just to clarify, the plans for the farmhouse bed assume that you do have a box spring, right?

This plans assumes that you have a boxspring. But if you do not have a box spring, you can simply raise the cleats (the 2x4s on the inside of the siderails) to the desired height and run slats acrossed the top of the cleats. The spacing and thickness of your slats will depend on your wood type. I would say if you are using pine, use 2x2s spaced 2" appart.

SO amazing Im in love! What would you have to do to make this bed for a king size mattress?

Maybe I'm not understanding correctly, but #13 says:

13. Add the siderail pieces, keeping the bottom edge of the siderail, K, flush with the cleats (I). Use screws to screw from the inside of the cleat, through the cleat and into the siderail. Predrill and use 2" screws, screwing down the length of the siderail.

What I am not getting is this: if the cleats are 2" thick, how will 2" screws be able to get through the cleat and into the siderail to properly hold the siderail?

Thanks in advance and I apologize if I'm "just not getting it"! :)

Hi Kathy, it's not you, it's the dimensional lumber. A 2x4 actually measures 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". A 1x10 is actually only 3/4" thick. So when you screw through the 1x2 you will have at least 1/2" left over on the screw, adding to the amount you countersinked the screw in. You do not want the screw to show all the way through. Also, the side rails are mostly decorative and not for main support, so you won't need long fasteners.

Hope this helps!

Ana

Yes, Ana it helps a lot!

Guess it would have helped if I had actually gone to the lumber store and became educated!

Thank you for your time!

I am soooo excited to have found your site. We are getting ready to make the queen bed and I have one question. The box spring I have is about 8" tall. With the use of 2x4s for the cleats there will about 2"of the box spring that will show. What would be the best way to change this?
I can't wait to get building some of the fantastic things you have posted!!
Thanks!

If you need your cleats to be shorter so your boxspring will not show, use 2x2s instead of 2x4s. This will give you a little more clearance (about 2"). Or you can make your siderails out of 1x12s instead of 1x10s. This would also give you 2" of extra coverage over the box spring.

Ana,
What if we have a King bed, but our box springs are two different pieces?

Same question as Scott & Lindsay. Do we need to do the slats because our box springs are in 2 pieces?

If your box spring is in 2 pieces, you will still need slats, but you could probably get away with less slats. Or you could create an "I" shaped brace in the center where the boxsprings meet.

Is there a shopping list for this or just the cut list?

So maybe I missed the info for a TWIN bed, but I couldn't find the dimensions or plans for the Farmhouse twin bed anywhere. If you could point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it!!

Thanks...
Julie

Twin plans are here
http://knockoffwood.blogspot.com/2010/01/plans-how-to-modify-farmhouse-b...

AWESOME!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I am so going to build these for my son and daughter...right now they have VERY cheap VERY squeaky headboards! :o)

Where are the king size plans?

Just wondering, if the frame footboard piece is 59" and the side pieces of the frame are 1 1/2" thick doesnt this make the frame too big for the footboard/headboard space of 60"?

Just wondering if it should be 57" for the footboard piece of the frame so it fits with the side pieces into the footboard?

Thanks

Christopher, You are correct. I fixed the typo, thanks for taking your time to let me know. Blessings, Ana

My daughter sent me a link to your blog... I LOVE it! You are so talented and inspiring. I sew and quilt but have never felt like I could do this, but you have changed my mind :o)

I love this bed and a number of other things you have posted. I definitely want to try my had at this. Thank you! (will send pictures when I do!)

Just the clarify, these plans are for a standard queen bed, 60" by 79.5"?

Can't wait - this will be a father/daughter bonding project this summer!

Ana, I love your site and this bed, it rocks, but I have two questions.

I see you have the 4x4-less option, but have you (or anyone else) thought of using timber instead of lumber to give the bed a more rustic look? I know it would take a lot more work to do, but the look might be worth it.

Second, is any reinforcement needed to the plans as they are now for heavier beds like a Tempurpedic?

Ana, can you speak to the 1/2" difference in overall width between the arched plan and the original farmhouse bed plan? I started cutting all my pieces from the original plan before I realized that the arched plan is longer, so now I'm wondering if I need to get some more lumber.

Thanks!

I just started cutting my lumber for this bed and I am so excited to see the results. Thank you so much for your plans. It should be finished (not stained) by this weekend. I will send you some pictures.

So I got the headboard and footboard done except for attaching the 4x4 post. The screws I got did not want to stick into the wood and hold it tight enough so went out and bought joiners for added support. Straight pieces for the top(before you add the trim) and corner joints for under the headboard and footboard. It seemed to hold better than just screws alone.

Hi Ana - I am making this bed as a birthday/Christmas gift for my sister who is in her first "real" apartment after graduating from med school and she needs a classy bed to match. She is using her box spring and would like to keep it. Am I understanding correctly that if the box spring is one piece, it is OK to just rest on the cleats without adding additional slats? I'm looking forward to making this - adding in one small modification for detachable siderail hardware from Rockler since she won't be in this apartment forever and she'll eventually need to move it. Much easier to do if the rails pop off and it becomes 4 pieces (headboard, footboard and 2 side rails) instead of 1 finished bed.

Is the headboard made with tongue and groove and if it's not how do you achieve this look? What's your recommendation.

I am trying to find these plans for a twin bed. Thanks

I cut and sanded the wood for this bed today and had a bit of a difficult time with the arch but managed to make a home-made compass that did the trick. I looked around for suggestions or a template online but didn't find one- so, if anyone needs help with this arch I can send you a home-made template, just let me know!

I need some king sized plans PLEASE! Yes i have a box spring THANKS! :)

Hi Anna

are slats sufficient for a king size with 2 box springs?
what spacing and could i use 2x2 instead of 2x4 for the slats to make it lighter? or is it better due to the strength and size of screw/ nails being used?

also is there any way you suggest making the siderails and frame removable? in case i want to take it apart and move it?

thanks

If I don't use the wood frame, is there a way to attach headboard and footboard to a metal frame?

I have a 10-12 inch deep box spring and mattress. Is there a way to modify the plans for the frame to fit both of them? I really like my box spring, and would like to have the bed at least 8 inches maybe higher off the ground, but need to accommodate the box spring and mattress!
Laura Hines, Washington State!

I have a 12 inch box spring and Mattress. Is there a way to modify the plans to make a frame to fit the both of them!

Laura, just figure out how high up you want the top of the mattress, then subtract the thickness of the mattress and box spring from that. That's where the top of your mattress support goes.

I love the farmhouse plans for the storage bed, but I also loooove the plank/arch look of this bed. Just printed out both plans tonight, and plan on modifying the sides of this bed to have storage drawers on both sides. Can not wait to put my new tools to work!! Thanks Ana :)