Twin Farmhouse Bed

If you are looking for a classic farmhouse style bed for your child's room, this is the project for you. Featuring simple styling, large headboard and footboard tops, substantial legs, sturdy siderails, and the option to go with or without a boxspring, this beautiful bed is definitely worth your sweat!

Special thanks to Kristine for sharing her photos.


Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!


Shopping List: 

Shopping List for Headboard and Footboard
2 – 4×4 Posts (8′ Length)
4 – 1×4 (8′ Length)
4 - 1×6 (8′ Length)
1 – 2×4 (8′ Length)
1 – 2×6 (8′ Length)
Shopping List for Rails (If you do not have a metal frame already)
3 - 2×4 (Can be stud length or 8′ length)
2 – 1×10 (8′ length)
2x2s if you need slats

3 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
measuring tape
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please review the plans for the Queen Sized Farmhouse bed with Arch and the plans for the Queen Sized Farmhouse Bed. Because the building process is essentially the same, I will just provide information on how to modify the existing plan for the queen sized farmhouse bed.

Fits twin sized mattress
Cut List: 

A) 2 – 4×4 Posts @ 54″ (Legs)
B) 4 – 1×4 @ 38 1/2″ (Panel Trim)
C) 7 – 1×6 @ 30″ (Planks for Panel)
D) 1 – 2×4 @ 45 1/2″ (Top of Legs and Panel)
E) 1 – 2×6 @ 47 1/2″ (Top of Headboard)
F) 2 – 4×4 Posts @ 21″ (Legs)
G) 4 – 1×4 @ 38 1/2″ (Panel Trim)
H) 7 – 1×6 @ 15″ (Planks for Panel)
I) 1 – 2×4 @ 45 1/2″ (Top of Legs and Panel)

J) 1 – 2×6 @ 47 1/2″ (Top of Footboard)
Side Rails
K) 2- 2×4 @ 80 1/2″ (Side Rail Cleats)
L) 2- 1×10 @ 76 1/2″ (Side Rail Trim)
M) 2 – 2×4 @ 35 1/2″ (Rails Supports on Headboard and Footboard)

Cutting Instructions: 
Because board widths can vary, check to make sure your 1x6 boards measure 5 1/2" wide. If they do not, you may need to adjust the width of your panel trim boards, and the header boards. Best advice is to lay out the panel boards first, take a measurement (consider that twin beds are 39" wide, but there is a little room for play in there) and adjust the remaining cuts accordingly.
Step 1: 

Build the headboard by first lining all the panel boards out and attaching the panel trim boards with 1 1/4" nails and glue. Attach from the back to hide holes. Then attach the panel to the legs, then attach the 2x4 header to the legs (top) and panel (top) followed by the 2x6 header centered on the top of the headboard.

Step 2 Instructions: 

If you already have a metal frame and boxspring, you are done with the building process. If you have a box spring, you can make the side rails as shown below. Also, you can choose the heights of your rails and cleats depending on the thickness of your mattresses and box springs, and whether or not you want underbed storage or trundle.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Top view of the side rails.

Step 4 Instructions: 

If you do not have a box spring, you can place 2×2 every six inches on top of the side rail cleats. Screw in place. Then add mattress to the top.

Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 


Oh my god. I've just found your site and you are amazing! I can never find what I want in the UK so have everything made for me based loosely on things I find on Pottery Barn or Land of Nod (which are not available in the UK). I'm pretty handy with tools and anything I can't do my husband can and will! Part of my downfall though is working out how things should be made so you've solved all my problems and save me some money! I'll be following you so much now you'll think I'm a stalker!!
Thanks a bunch.

I just found your site from Be Different, Act Normal and I have to say I LOVE your work! I am hope hope hoping that I will make something from here one day. Thank you SO MUCH for sharing your knowledge with us! I might just have to become a follower...

I am also here from Be Different, Act Normal and I love your blog! I have a lot of time to sit and browse while I nurse my one month old. I already showed this to my husband and told him we're building the Stratton bed for ourselves when we get out of this apartment!

your projects are incredible! I love that you include plans with it! I'd love to get my hands on some software like that!
Your bed is beautiful!!!

Ok I am officially in love with your site!! I have spent almost all day going through all your ideas- my husband just went last night and bought wood to try and make my daughter a bed and then I found your site with all these amazing ideas!! I can't wait to get started on so many of these plans- thanks so much for all the great stuff:)

Ooh I thought of something else! Is there a way to make this so that you can break it down for transport? We are a military family and move every 3-4 years. I would think this bed would survive moving better if it can be taken apart.

I deleted my previous comment after reading through some of your other posts. Mainly the TOOLS category! How long do the slats need to be to not use a boxspring?

SO gorgeous! I love this bed and everything about it! We don't have room in our bedroom right now for a bed frame for our king size bed but this is going into my "someday" folder. Love it!


For those of you who do not have a box spring, you can use 2x2s cut at 38 1/2". Just rest the 2x2s on the cleats and screw in place. You will only need a single screw to keep each slat in place on each end.

I would space the slats ever 1 1/2" , just because you might have little ones jumping on the bed. The easiest way to do this is to just use a scrap 2x2 (measures 1 1/2" wide) and hold it in place while you screw the next slat in place. Then remove the scrap and so on. You will need approximately 24 2x2s, so about 12 2x2 boards (these are cheap, about $1.50 each, you can buy them in bundles)

Also, if you are not using a box spring, this will affect the overall height of the mattress, moving the mattress down. To avoid an empty space under the headboard, you can either:

1. Shorten the legs of the headboard. Measure your mattress and determine how high it will sit on the headboard. Subtract the difference.

2. Higher the mattress. Simply attach the cleates higher on both the headboards and footboard. Please note that this will make your mattress higher.

3. Make your headboard panel longer. Just cut your panel pieces, the 1x6s, longer (instead of the 30"). Determine the extra length by measuring your mattress and determining how much empty space would be exposed, and add this amount to your panel pieces (so if 6" would be exposed, cut your panel pieces at 6")

Ana!! Thank you for these plans! I only requested them a week or so ago!!! I can't wait to get started.... As soon as those trundle instructions are posted we're headed to Lowe's!

I just found your blog and I cannot even tell you how amazed and excited I am! I have been trying so hard to find two twin beds for my boys room and they are all so expensive so I was having no luck. I have no experience building, but I am a big DIY'er so I am so excited to try my luck with these beds.

Thanks SO much for posting!

Wow - this is beautiful! I have been in love with this daybed

for my daughter and think that your Farmhouse bed might be just the thing. I think I could make one long "headboard" for the long back piece of the bed. How might you modify the sides for a daybed? Thank you so much for sharing!

Wow this is a great. It was pretty easy to build once I got the gumption to start. I would recommend this design to any do it yourselfer. It looks great and is very strong.

The buy list is short a couple things for the twin size only.
1 2x6x8
1 1x6x8

I feel like the 4x4's should be pre-drilled all the way rather than half way. They just seem to fit better totally drilled and cinch up more completely.

Thank you for an excellent site and i plan on building more of these great designs.

I only found the list to be short one 1x6, but a 4 foot board will work instead of an 8 foot. Also for the 1x4s (that you nail the 1x6s to) the measurement is short about a 1/2 inch. Measure your 1x6 planks before cutting the 1x4 trim. Unfortunately I already cut all mine before I realized it, but fortunately I was in a fully equipped wood shop and just took my panels down with the table saw.

It is taking me MUCH longer than I thought it would (11 hours total so far!), but it is my very first project. I am also in a public wood shop and have had to wait on machines a little. With it being my first project, I can attest to the fact that nothing has been too difficult! I have done a few things a little different. I will post on that once I am finished with the bed.

I absolutely love it so far!!!

Hi Kristin, I 'm sorry to hear about your challenges. To avoid this in the future, it's a good idea to cut to measurement, like your recommended. The other thing to look out for is a different width in your 1x6 board. A standard 1x6 measures 3/4" x 5 1/2" , and 7 of these would measure exactly 38 1/2". If you purchased boards that were "off" even just an 1/8", over seven boards, you would be off almost 1".

Thanks for sharing your challenges!


This is exactly what I have been wanting for my daughter but in a daybed form. Any ideas on how to make this twin farmhouse bed into a daybed??

Thanks! We're making the Stratton bed for our room too!

Did the TWIN farm bed instructions dissappear?? I cannot find them for the life of me and the "Read More" is not popping up above the share button. Is there a direct link? I LOVE LOVE LOVE your site Ana, its my birthday on Monday and I told my husband I need some tools:)

Went and bought all my wood on Friday. Started cutting today and realized the wood list is short one 1x6x8. Just back from Lowes with another board. Hoping this is the last trip there today.

I built this bed! I thought some of you might like to know the approximate cost. I live in north Florida and the lumber cost me about $95. I made my slats as described on the plans for the Simple Bed. I used whitewood board. I didn't have to buy nails, screws, or glue. So $95 for the lumber...not bad!

FYI for all military out there: Lowes (at least mine) gives a 10% military discount! Not much when you run in for paint, but a considerable amount when you buy $100 in lumber! The $95 mentioned about is without the discount.

Hi Ana
I'm going to start building 2 of these tomorrow. It sounds like you can use the metal frame instead of the cleats (with a boxspring) ... how exactly do you do this? Do you screw the metal frame to the rails so the boxspring sits on the metal frame??

Working on it right now! Just realized it is short one 1x6...guess the footboard will have to wait until tomorrow! It has been way fun and easy to put together so far though! My son is going to LURVE it SO much!

Just thought I would mention, now that I have actually assembled the bed that the cut list is not short a 1x6. If you do the foot board the recommended height...I had mine originally cut at 30" and realized the foot board is supposed to be about half as tall as the the cut list is correct. Just thought I would post this to correct my previous post.

Do you have an rec's on how to attach bed rail hangers? We're a military family and we move around a lot so we would have to make this bed to where it could come apart easily.

has anyone made this bed and stained it? if you have an approximate price range you think was spent on the lumber for that? I am assuming the other prices are for the cheaper wood that you wouldn't stain, home depot and lowes both don't carry the posts and stuff in pine..i'll have to go to a lumber yard. just wondering.

now i'm discouraged bc lumber yards don't carry the 4 x 4 posts in the nicer stainable woods or the 2 x 6, or 2 x 4. Any ideas where to get some nice stainable wood at a decent price? i really want this bed for my boys.

If you go to a lumber yard that carries hardwoods, you should be able to find 4x4 wood that will look better stained. However, 4x4 wood that is stainable can be incredibly expensive. Look for lumber yards that cater to woodworkers (if you live in SoCal, Eagle Rock Lumber is a good bet). You may be looking at a minimum of $4.00 a foot for basic clear pine, or much more for oak or walnut.

UPDATE: I just came back from Lowe's and have this answer for Emily Snow's question about staining. A 1x6x8 of plain white wood was $5.92, for clear pine it was $14.77, and for oak it was $24.82. So, getting a good wood that will take a stain well will cost you anywhere between 400% and 500% of the cost if you get paint grade wood. Than again, this bed would look great in oak and become a family heirloom. Cheers!

Thank you Thank you!! You're awesome. My husband and I are going to make the this for our almost 3 yr. old girl. I will let you know how it turns out!

lindsy said...

Hi Ana
I'm going to start building 2 of these tomorrow. It sounds like you can use the metal frame instead of the cleats (with a boxspring) ... how exactly do you do this? Do you screw the metal frame to the rails so the boxspring sits on the metal frame??

I had the same question as Lindsy. Maybe it is somewhere else on the blog? does anyone have any recommendations on this?

The easiest way to use a metal frame is to just attach the footboard and headboard to the metal frame, with no siderails. Depending on your frame, you may be a able to also attach the siderails to the frame.

I am looking at building the Twin version of your bed. I would like to be able to take the bed apart later, for ease of moving it.

I'm sorry if you have answered this question already, I didn't see an answer when I looked in the comments.

How would you make this bed disassemble, at least down to three pieces (head board, foot board, and mattress support frame)?

In addition, we don't have a box spring and will be shortening the headboard to accommodate the design :)

Thanks again for the great plans!

This plan is really good, although I am wondering if you have any suggestions on how to raise the height of the footboard above the mattress?

I've been looking for a bed for my almost-2-year-old son and stumbled upon your site. LOVE IT. My husband and I have never done carpentry work, although we have done extensive renovations on our house. We're going to give making a bed using your plans a try! One question, we like both the farmhouse bed and the simple bed, so we'll do the one that is the easiest. In your opinion, which one would that be? Thanks!! Laurie

I found your blog and have been oogling the past two days on everything I want to do....and it's been years since I built anything! I'm going to build two of these with canopies for my daugthers who share a room. I'm nervous, but SOOO excited!!!

Hi Ana and all! We have a metal bed frame, but only one end is able to be bolted/screwed to the headboard...anyone come across this issue, and how did you modify to be able to attach your foot board to the frame? We thought about getting a second frame, flipping it around where what would be the head of the bed would be at the end to be able to attach foot board...another thought is getting some side rails that have the "hooks" on them that would go into the head and foot boards...but we aren't sure how to make the "slit" cut on the 4x4s so it will slide down and be secure...make sense to anyone? Thanks for any input!

Can anyone give me an approximate cost on this project? I know lumber prices will vary so I'm just looking for a ballpark figure. Thanks so much!

Could I modify this to make it work with the trundle underneath? Add a few more inches the headboard and footboard? Thoughts?
I was thinking of the daybed, but really like the look of the farm bed better.

Thanks, Amy

A few things to keep in mind if you are building this twin bed for a wiggly sleeper..

First let me say this was my first experience building, and I had a great time. (although it did take me a while to fit this in between work, kids, soccer, etc!) I built this bed for my 3 1/2 year old who falls out of bed regularly. When the headboard and footboard are flush with the wall, the space between the siderail and the wall are great enough that my son can fall between the bed and the wall. My 5 year old outgrew falling out of his bed and I assume my little one will too, so for now I have solved this problem with a very firm pillow stuffed in the space. If you have plans for siderails that can be easily attached I would love them.
Also, I am living in the south and can tell you 4x4's were impossible to find unless I wanted Yellawood. Not comfortable using chemically treated wood for my toddlers bed, so we went with two 2x4's nailed and glued together. They worked fine.

We would LOVE to make this for our daughters who share a room and this is almost identical to the bunk beds we were planing on purchasing. How would you modify the farmhouse bed to bunk beds? To come apart later for twin beds after we move. I just glanced through the previous posts so I'm sorry if it was mentioned before.

[...] was originally $499 and today it is marked down to $299… but for way less than that you can build your own with Ana White’s Knock-Off Wood plans. I guess if you have no tools and don’t like to build furniture (and it’s not as hard [...]

Ana, we can't wait to finish this! We finished cutting and sanding the boards for this bed today and are hoping to get it together tomorrow. Would you suggest painting the boards before assembling or after the bed is together? We are going to be using a crisp white with no distressing (for a little girls room!) Can't wait to share our results! Thanks!

i have a question... hopefully someone can answer... with this bed ( twin ) when attatching the "legs" to the headboard .. how many 4.5" screws are being used... can someone please give me an idea .. i am done but don't want to do "final" assembly..... i jused 4 --- 2 on each side.

i just used 6 per leg.. 3 at the top of the panel, and 3 at the bottom of the panel.. just in 1 vertical line so it screwed into the sandwiched panel.. i could only find 4" screws (i looked in every single hardware/metal store in town !) so i just sunk the screws about 1/2 an inch into the post.. and it is SOO sturdy !

Hi Ana,

Just curious if it would be possible to modify the farmhouse bed into bunk beds?  I was thinking of something like the Simple Bunk Beds, only using the Farmhouse design instead??  What do you think?

I love this bed! But I need two and would love for them to be able to convert to a bunk bed. Do you have plans for this farm house twin bed that are for bunk beds?

I was looking at all the comments hoping to see something about bunk beds and the last 2 are exactly that! I want to make this into bunk beds as well! Do you think you'll do plans for this?

I an interested in making this with a trundle underneath as well and could not get the link you mentioned in the comments (above) to work. Is there an updated link? Thanks!!

i am in the process of making the farmhouse, in full size, for my daughter.. needs to be finished for her bday on sunday..

i like the idea of the side rail cleats in this tutorial, so we can adjust the height for storage, but i dont understand how to convert the measurements from twin to full (this is my first build)..

so could anyone please provide me with the measurements of the cuts needed to make side rail cleats for a full/double size bed.. (cuts k,l & m) thanks !

The 2 x 2 selection at our Lowes is pitiful. They are all cracked and warped. I thought I might use 2 x 4's for the slats instead. How far apart would it be best to place those for a twin bed? Just wondering! Thank you so much for these beautiful plans.

Hello Ana and everyone,

I am interested in making this bed for my 3 1/2 year old daughter. However, I am concerned about the fact that the bed does not fit flush against a wall along the side. My daughter is still young and I don't want to worry about her falling in the side. Is there anyway to modify the bed so that the the bed rails are attached closer to the outer edge of the headboard/footboard posts. I am very new to building so I don't know if this modification would make the bed less sturdy or otherwise wouldn't work?


It doesn't look to me that you would want to attach the side rails further out. One possibility would be to cut a piece of foam rubber to fill up the gap.

Hi Jeff,

Would you mind explaining why that would be a problem? I understand that I would need to adjust the width of the headboard/footboard to make it work so that the mattress still fits properly, but since I am new to building, I just want to make sure that I don't do anything to mess up the structure and stability of the bed! I hope to make this for my daughter and want to make sure it's still safe! Plus I hate to have wasted space in any room and having the bed not flush against the wall is just wasted space!

Thanks for your help!

I am in the process of building this bed for my daughter. Although ive had a few set backs its coming along. When attaching the panel to the legs someone please tell me what screws to use. I told my husband i thought we needed to use 4 1/2 screws and pre drill in the 4x4 but he seems to think it will split the 1x4 please help...

I've got most of the bed finished... but I'm having a hard time understanding the directions on attaching the siderails. I bout the rail connectors from Rockler that everyone has talked about. Do I attach these connectors to the Siderails or to the cleats? I'm confused.


Hey there,

I am just about to finish this bed...but really wondering what the best way to do the siderails is. Any chance you would share with me what you did?

Saw a few posts from military families that are constantly on the move and need beds to break down easily and still be sturdy when you reach the next duty station. Found some bed brackets that help with break down and easy set up for you or the movers:
Surface Mounted Keyhole Bed Rail Brackets

This set got the best ratings and seems to be the easiest to use!!

Thanks Ana for this website. I have a list of projects that I want to get started on and a few friends requesting pieces. As a military wife who constantly moves it is wonderful to have nice things that are easily fixed and doesn't make my heart stop because something really expensive got damaged in the move.

Would it be possible for you to update the material list? i don't see how the 3 in screws will go through the 4x4's and attach to the panel. In the Queen version you call for 4-1/2 screws but not here. Any idea of how many each? you had posted 20 for the 4-1/2' but indicate you need 6 in each post for the foot board and headboard - that's at least 24. grreat plans by the way, just need an update on list!


I stumbled across your site today while searching for plans to build a bed like the Ashby from Pottery Barn. Like many people on this site, I have Pottery Barn taste on a Walmart Budget. Any chance you'd be willing to check her out and consider posting queen-size plans for it? Its similar to some of the reclaimed and farmhouse styles up on this site, but different in that the headboard is curved. Thanks alot and keep up the good work!


printed out these plans and print sosmall I cant read them.,.most of the plans have a PRINTER FRIENDLY app to click on...didnt see one for these plans..Please help..thanks

I have been asking "Santa" to bring me tools for Christmas for years and he finally listened. I have always wanted to build furniture and would love to make this the Farmhouse Bed for my grandaughter. Is this bed simple enough for a first project or should I set my sights a little lower to start? It looks simple enough but I know things are not always as they look. BTW, I just love this site!

I'm so thankful for finding your site, I came to you from Shanty 2 Sheik, and I found that site when I was on a few days ago.

We have four kids and a tight budget and I was looking for bunk bed plans for our boys a few months ago. I searched and searched but all I could find was a couple of sites who had bunk bed plans for sale. I didn't see a point in paying for professional plans being an beginner; I need tips and help....not just plans.

So I just want to say thanks so much for sharing your know-how for free and creating a community where fellow thrifty moms can try something new and help each other out. I can't wait to get started on projects and I'll be sure to post brags!

In the process of making this bed. Thanks, Ana for the wonderful, detailed plans! I just wanted to comment that untreated 4x4s are nowhere to be found where we live in the Southern US. We tried both big chain stores (orange and blue) and called 2 local lumber yards. All said they've never carried non-pressure treated 4x4s. Our only option was 4x4 cedar posts at $15 each. Any suggestions on something else we could use for the 4x4s or a way to improvise when we build this bed again in a king size? Thanks so much!

What is the best way to attach the fram to the headboard and footboard? And then do I just screw the siderails to the frame from the inside. OR do I attach the siderails to the headboard and footboard using kreg pocketholes and then attach the frame? I am building this for a girlfriends' daughter..and want to make sure it lasts a long time without falling apart! Thanks for the help....ANYONE - PLEASE!!

Hey everyone,

Getting ready to build this bed for my two daughters. I would like to set it up to have a trundle underneath. Does anyone have a recommendation on what size mattress to use for the trundle and how I should adjust the height? Also need the top bed to be adjusted to accommodate only a mattress, no box sprint. Any and all advice is welcome.

These are my exact questions as well. I want to build this with no box spring, and would like to accommodate a trundle bed as well.
Did you ever get answers to your question? Thanks for sharing.

I noticed the Queen sized version of this bed has a link to a "printer friendly version", but this one does not...any chance you can add? Thanks!

Great site by the way!


I was wondering if anyone has tried making this bed with 1/2 inch thick boards for the paneling on the headboard/footboard? I think the 4x4 posts and 1 x boards are too bulky (and heavy!) for what I am looking for. I found some 1/2 inch thick pine boards that I could use for the paneling and am trying to get a hold of a 3x3 or 2/4 for the posts. I am just concerned about when I attach the posts to the headboard. I'm afraid I'll split the 1/2 inch panel when I screw into it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


just finished building this bed. looks amazing but weighs a tonne! i have used 1x8's for the side rails with 2x2 cleats attached and 1x4 slats spaced every 3 1/2 inches. also used galvanized plates for brackets on the side rails in order to disassemble. thanks anna :-) awesome site. will post to brag board soon....

I am looking to do the exact same thing for my 2 yr old (no box spring/use galvanized brackets) - I'm wondering... could you tell me the clearance below the side rails? I'm thinking of cutting off some height to make it lower to the ground, but wanted to keep at least a 7" clearance.

Hello Everyone!

I am in the process of building this bed and am planning on using the Rockler brackets to attach the siderails to the legs of the bed. I was wondering how everyone adjusted the cleats to make this work. It seems like I would have to make the cleats a bit shorter than the length of the siderail to leave room to attach the brackets on the edges of the siderail. Just wondering if that's what everyone did!


How much do you think this will cost to build?

Anybody out there able to comment on how much it cost to build this bed? Trying to figure out whether the cost of all that lumber will save me much in the long run...I think we already have most of the tools. ALso, how long did it take most of you to build? (another factor to consider) DH is pretty handy, but hasn't done anything with his tools in awhile.

1. Twin size mattresses are 39" wide and these plans look like they are made for a 38 1/2" width. How is everyone fitting their twin mattress into this or what am I missing.

2. The plans call for 3" screws only. How do I attached the 2x4 frame to the 1x10 bed rails? If I use the 3" screws here it would go through both pieces of wood.