Tryde Console Table

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Tryde Console Table

This rustic solid wood console table is built from standard 2x4 boards. With a rustic stained or a distressed finish, you can have your very own stylish console table in just a few hours. Featuring a stretcher and sturdy design, with breadboard ends. This well thought out plan has been built hundreds of times succesfully, even extended in length and width.

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

Pages

Author Notes: 

Shopping List: 
  • 1 – 10′ 4×4 Post 
  • 1 – 1×4 
  • 1 – 1×2 
  • 1 – 2×6 Board 
  • 3- 2×4 Board 
  • 2″ Screws (about 50) 
  • 16 - 4″ Screws
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
sander
General Instructions: 

Cut all your boards, except you may wish to cut the tabletop boards after taking an exact measurment of your table in step 7. Make sure you get nice straight cuts. Either use a miter saw, chop saw, or mark your boards with a square and cut with a handheld saw. Predrill all of your screw holes with a countersink bit. Before attaching any boards, mark where the attaching board will fit. Always use glue. Use 2″ screws unless otherwise directed. Take a square of the project after each step (see HOW-TO section). Work on a clean level surface.

Dimensions: 
48" x 14" x 30"
Cut List: 
  • 4 – 4×4 Posts @ 28 1/2” (Legs) 
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 2 1/4″ (Side Apron Spacers) 
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 10 1/2″ (Top Leg Supports) 
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 6″ (Side Apron) 
  • 2- 1×4 @ 33″ (Front/Back Apron) 
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 10 1/2″ (Tabletop Supports) 
  • 2 – 2×6 @ 14″ (Breadboard Ends) 
  • 4 – 2×4 @ 37″ (Tabletop) (You may wish to measure and cut these to get a perfect fit as you build) 
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 6″ (Side Stretchers) 
  • 1 – 2×4 @ 35″ (Stretcher)
Step 1: 

On each of the legs (WOOD, A), attach the apron spacer (BLUE, B) as shown above. The spacer will sit flush with the inside corner of each leg as shown above. Make sure you are attaching the spacers in the correct placement for each leg – they are not all the same! Use the 2″ screws (if you have a nailer handy, you can use 2″ nails and glue here).

Step 2 Instructions: 

Mark the legs 1 1/4″ in from the outside edges, as shown above and fasten the top leg support, shown in Green above, lining up with your marks. Make sure you attach to the spacer (Blue) and the legs (Wood). If your nailer is handy, you can also nail the support to the spacers and the legs. Do this for both sides.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach the side appron (pink) as shown above. You can use your nailer or predrill and screw in. You will only need two fasteners per end of each apron (a total of 8 fasteners).

Step 4 Instructions: 

Fasten the front and back aprons (E, Green) in place as shown above. Keep top edges flush. Use 2 screws per end of each apron, for a total of 8 screws.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Fasten the tabletop support pieces (green) as shown above. You can use your nailer here.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Mark your breadboard ends as shown above. Then place as shown above. Predrill and screw in place your breadboard ends. Make sure you screw into the legs with the 4″ screws.

Step 7 Instructions: 

If you choose to measure and cut, square up your table. Then take a measurement of the top of the table. It should be very close to 37″. Cut your boards. Then fasten the ends only of the top in place. You will screw into the top leg support piece, C, on the ends. I recommend marking out a screw pattern on the top of the ends of boards H so that all your screw holes are symentrical on the face of the tabletop.
Then flip the table over on it’s top, and screw through the tabletop supports from step 5 into the undersides of the tabletop pieces. Keep the gap between your tabletop pieces a minimum.
Start in the middle and fasten all 4 tabletop pieces in place.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Screw at an angle from the corner edge of the ends of the tabletop pieces into the breadboard sides. This is shown above.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Predrill and screw through the sides of the legs into the stretcher sides. Position as shown above. Use the 4″ screws.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Position the stretcher as shown above and screw in place.

Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

oooh Thanks for this one! I don't need a dining table OR a coffee table but I am going to make an island that looks like this for my kitchen. Being a tiny kitchen I will have to make it bigger than the console table but smaller than the dining table :D I am going to put two shelves in I think...

My father and I just finished building this table! Your tutorial made it incredibly easy, and neither of us are carpenters so that`s saying something!!

I`m waiting for the finish to dry and then I`ll be sending pictures your way = D

-k

Love this table..have been looking to buy one exactly just like it but cost too much $. Thank you so much for your site. I am totally clueless about building but you seem to make it took like I could do it. Just wondering what kind of wood to use??

The cheapest and easiest way is to use stud grade lumber. It's already distressed. AND it's exactly what Pottery Barn uses for their pine colored table! I hope you take a second to look at the Beth's Hyde Coffee Table (http://knockoffwood.blogspot.com/2009/12/bragging-board.html ) and End Table (http://knockoffwood.blogspot.com/search/label/Bragging%20Board) - she used pine and it is beautiful.

After looking through the plans you've done of benches for say a dining room table I think we're going to use the console table plan, shorten the legs and lengthen the top to make benches for our sorav dining table (world market). We got this table out of their dumpster last year. It took a year but we were finally able to get replacement legs and fix the damage to the table itself. This will totally save us the $500 for chairs and benches. Awesome!

Me and my husband just made this as a house warming gift for my Aunt! I was so worried because she has such a beautiful home but it turned out so great- can't wait to paint it and post pictures!! It only cost us 35.00 to build but we already had the 4x4's left over from something else!!

I love this table and have plans to make it ASAP! I have one question. I was looking at the console table that Kelsey and her dad made (real simple console table) They added a shelf on the bottom. Can I do the same thing with this table? If so how do I do that?
Thanks for all you do! I can not wait to fill my house up with furniture!!!

to make a bottom shelf, you would essentially need to construct a second table top, much like you did for the top. Only this time, use 1x2s as the supports and aprons. I would extend the aprons so that they are flush with the legs, instead of inset.

Cover the top of the shelves in 1x4 boards. Copy the top by doing a "breadboard" end between the legs, and then fill in the remaining pices with 1x4s.

I've been working on the Hyde console table this weekend and wanted to share what i've found in doing it. (almost there--near the finish line!) One thing I noticed was that the cut list only calls for 2 side apron spacers, but you need 4 to put one on each leg. Not a major problem!

I think this makes for a good first project--definitely "doable," but I did have to "call for help" a few times. Looking forward to going out on my own for the next project (Farmhouse bed?) Pictures coming when its done! Thanks again, Ana!

You can build one for me! Please?! Seriously though, I just found your blog and I want to thank you so much. I don't know if I will ever have the courage/time/money (yes, money, I'm that poor) to actually build anything, but it does make my pottery barn dreams seem a bit closer!

OH my goodness. I am so excited to try and build this during the weekend! I figure it can't go any worse then my first pajama sewing project did (Pockets ended up down at the knees!)

Hi, thanks for sharing your wonderful plans! I want to make this console table, but I live in Atlanta and I'm having a super hard time finding a 4'x4' that is not pressure treated. I've tried the major DIY hardware stores, but no luck. Where did you find the 4'x4'?

Ana,

I just found your blog and am very inspired! I'm a beginning woodworker and thought all furniture was hard to build...until I found your plans!

One question - where do you find your 4x4 lumber? I've checked both HD and LHI and found that they carry only pressure treated 4x4s. Any suggestions for those of us in the piedmont area of NC?

Ana (and all!)

Was wondering if I could use this as the base idea for a side table/radiator cover? They are SO expensive to buy or have custom made and little fingers are curious... so I want to get started now before the heat comes on late this fall...

I would have to take out the last stabilizing piece but could put something on the outside of the legs if needed. Would also probably use metal perforated sheets to fill the other areas...

Unless radiator cover plans are coming!

Ana (and all!)
Could I modify this to a table/radiator cover?

Little fingers are curious and I need to get started soon so I am sure to be done by late fall when the heat comes on...

unless there are radiator cover plans coming soon...

BBFHOA - If you are close to Raleigh, NC, check out Capital City Lumber, right off 440 beltline. They have 4x4 untreated for about $8 for 8'.

Hi Ana,
Thanks for these awesome instructions! I was just wondering something-I noticed that the tables are longer in some of the pictures, and I'd like to make a table longer than 48"-which pieces do I need to change the cut length on in order to do that? I'm assuming it's the front and back aprons, tabletop pieces and the stretcher-am I correct?
I'm so excited to try this!!
thanks,
Loralee

Here is out "Tryde" console table. We love it. We are now working on the side tables. We added L shaped brackets under the ends for extra support. C:\Users\Ashley\Pictures\Nov Dec 2010\IMG_0017

Ana - I'm cutting the wood for this right now and wouldn't you need 4 of the side apron spacers labeled as B? Just want to make sure!

did my version of ana's design of the console table and might proud of the results!
did a dark stain of dark walnut to match my floors and staircare finish! thanks for the inspiration ana!

This is BEAUTIFUL!!! I think I'm gonna have to try the entire Tryde collection! :D

The road to success is always under construction.

Ana, do you have a how-to section on this site? I've looked for it, but can't find it.

I love this table and especially love the finish. Can you tell me what finish you used on it? It is exactly what I am wanting to do a kitchen table in. Thanks!

About to start building this but can't figure out how to attach the breadboard ends in step 6. It says to use the 4" screws into the leg, but as it sits in the picture the table is resting on the breadboard end with only 1.5 inch overlap and there does not appear to be a way to screw the two together Almost seems like it would need an L-bracket. Or do I turn it over and screw into the leg from the top?

Also, the materials list calls for a Kreg jig and 1 1/4 and 2 1/2 PH screws but I can't see where in the instructions they are used. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks.