- 1 – 10′ 4×4 Post
- 1 – 1×4
- 1 – 1×2
- 1 – 2×6 Board
- 3- 2×4 Board
- 2″ Screws (about 50)
- 16 - 4″ Screws
- 4 – 4×4 Posts @ 28 1/2” (Legs)
- 2 – 1×4 @ 2 1/4″ (Side Apron Spacers)
- 2 – 1×4 @ 10 1/2″ (Top Leg Supports)
- 2 – 1×4 @ 6″ (Side Apron)
- 2- 1×4 @ 33″ (Front/Back Apron)
- 2 – 1×2 @ 10 1/2″ (Tabletop Supports)
- 2 – 2×6 @ 14″ (Breadboard Ends)
- 4 – 2×4 @ 37″ (Tabletop) (You may wish to measure and cut these to get a perfect fit as you build)
- 2 – 2×4 @ 6″ (Side Stretchers)
- 1 – 2×4 @ 35″ (Stretcher)
Cut all your boards, except you may wish to cut the tabletop boards after taking an exact measurment of your table in step 7. Make sure you get nice straight cuts. Either use a miter saw, chop saw, or mark your boards with a square and cut with a handheld saw. Predrill all of your screw holes with a countersink bit. Before attaching any boards, mark where the attaching board will fit. Always use glue. Use 2″ screws unless otherwise directed. Take a square of the project after each step (see HOW-TO section). Work on a clean level surface.
On each of the legs (WOOD, A), attach the apron spacer (BLUE, B) as shown above. The spacer will sit flush with the inside corner of each leg as shown above. Make sure you are attaching the spacers in the correct placement for each leg – they are not all the same! Use the 2″ screws (if you have a nailer handy, you can use 2″ nails and glue here).
Mark the legs 1 1/4″ in from the outside edges, as shown above and fasten the top leg support, shown in Green above, lining up with your marks. Make sure you attach to the spacer (Blue) and the legs (Wood). If your nailer is handy, you can also nail the support to the spacers and the legs. Do this for both sides.
This rustic solid wood console table is built from standard 2x4 boards. With a rustic stained or a distressed finish, you can have your very own stylish console table in just a few hours. Featuring a stretcher and sturdy design, with breadboard ends. This well thought out plan has been built hundreds of times succesfully, even extended in length and width.
Attach the side appron (pink) as shown above. You can use your nailer or predrill and screw in. You will only need two fasteners per end of each apron (a total of 8 fasteners).
Fasten the front and back aprons (E, Green) in place as shown above. Keep top edges flush. Use 2 screws per end of each apron, for a total of 8 screws.
Fasten the tabletop support pieces (green) as shown above. You can use your nailer here.
Mark your breadboard ends as shown above. Then place as shown above. Predrill and screw in place your breadboard ends. Make sure you screw into the legs with the 4″ screws.
If you choose to measure and cut, square up your table. Then take a measurement of the top of the table. It should be very close to 37″. Cut your boards. Then fasten the ends only of the top in place. You will screw into the top leg support piece, C, on the ends. I recommend marking out a screw pattern on the top of the ends of boards H so that all your screw holes are symentrical on the face of the tabletop.
Then flip the table over on it’s top, and screw through the tabletop supports from step 5 into the undersides of the tabletop pieces. Keep the gap between your tabletop pieces a minimum.
Start in the middle and fasten all 4 tabletop pieces in place.
Screw at an angle from the corner edge of the ends of the tabletop pieces into the breadboard sides. This is shown above.
Predrill and screw through the sides of the legs into the stretcher sides. Position as shown above. Use the 4″ screws.
Position the stretcher as shown above and screw in place.