1 – Sheet of 3/4″ A1 Plywood or MDF, made into 1×24 boards
2 Sets of Undermount Drawer Slides, Less than 23″ Long
Cut List for the Box
Cut List for the Trim
Cut List for the Drawers
Cut List for Drawer Faces
To convert the file cabinet drawers to hanging file cabinets, you can purchase these rails for about $1.50 each. These will slip right over the drawer sides and voila – you’ve got a hanging file system!
General Instructions. Cut your 3/4″ Plywood or MDF into strips 23 1/2″ wide by 8′ long. These strips become 1×24 boards. Position your cuts to get the most out of each board.
Work on a clean level surface. You can fasten with nails or screws, depending on your tools and the use of this piece. Screws will hold better, nails are easier. My general rule is screw anything that will be “used” like chairs and benches, and nail sedentary pieces like bookcases and hutches. I will leave this up to you. If you are screwing, make sure you predrill and countersink your screws. If you are using MDF, avoid fastening within 1″ of the edge of the MDF. Do not use wood screws on MDF. Wood screws do not have a straight shaft and will split your MDF. I have had luck with drywall screws (after all, drywall is very similar to MDF). Make sure you predrill the entire distance of the screws. It’s going to screeech, so wear hearing protection. And glue, glue, glue.
My favorite option is to screw the “box” together, and then use finish nails to add the frame. That way the frame does not have blemishes, but the piece is built sturdy.
Make sure you take a square of the project after each step. Measure and mark out any joints before fastening. Be safe, have fun.
Build the Box. Start by fastening with glue and 2″ fastenerns the shelves to the sides. Then add the top. Check for square and use the measurements above to guide you.
Plywood the Back. Add the plywood to the back. Just a note, most furniture stores use cardboard, yes, cardboard for the back of their furniture.
These plans coupled with a few more, and you can create an entire office wall system! This simple plan features two drawers that can be used as a file system, optional base and edge moulding, and a deep countertop space. Drawers use metal drawer guides.
Face Frame. Start at the bottom and fasten the bottom, the 1×3, first. Then the sides, then the top, and then the shelf trim. Leave 3/4″ space at the top of the top trim.
Top Trim. Finish the top trim, as shown above. Make sure you nail through the face of the top trim into the top of the cabinet, as well as into the top trim piece from the previous step.
Base Moulding. Apply the base moulding with glue and 1 1/4″ nails.
Drawers. Build the drawers by first creating the bottom. Cut the bottom from a 1×24, cut at 12 1/4″ long. Then cut 3/4″ off the 12 1/4″ end, creating a bottom measuring 12 1/4″ x 22 3/4″. Then fasten the back to the bottom. Then the sides. Check for square. Use the undermount drawer slides to attach the faceless drawer into the drawer opening. The drawer will sit flush with the back of the cabinet.
Drawer Face. Build your drawer face by fastening the rails and stiles to the back piece using glue and clamps. You may also wish to use brad nails 5/8″ long, or screws. If you cannot find stock in the correct species 3/8″ thick, you can use 1/4″ thick, but you will need to add rails and stiles to the fronts and backs of your center plywood to obtain the total 3/4″ thickness.
With the drawer inserted into the cabinet, arrange the face on the drawer so that there is an even gap around all sides of the drawer face. Then fasten the face the sides and bottom of the drawer.