Rustic Table

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Rustic Table

A beautiful, easy to build table that features a 1x top simple legs. This table is designed to look like something one might find and treasure. Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos with us.

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Shopping List: 

4 – 2x2s, 8′ Long 4 – 1×4, 8′ Long 4 – 1×10, 8′ Long 1 – 2×4, stud length or 8′ length 2″ screws 1 1/4″ screws wood glue wood filler sand paper

wood glue
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
General Instructions: 

Predrill and countersink your screw holes. Keep outside edges flush. Take a square after each step. Work on a clean level surface and use necessary safety precautions.

Dimensions: 
96" x 36" x 30" high (approximate)
Cut List: 

2 – 1×4 @ 90 1/2″ (Side Aprons) 2 – 1×4 @ 36″ (End Aprons) 8 – 2×2 @ 34 1/2″ (Under Tabletop Supports) 4 – 1×10 @ 96″ (Tabletop Pieces) 2 – 1×4 @ 29 1/4″ (Legs) 2 – 2×4 @ 29 1/4″ (Legs) 4 – 2×2 @ 12″, ends mitered at 45 degrees (cross supports)

Step 1: 

Table Top Supports and Apron. Build the tabletop supports and aprons as shown above. The supports are spaced 10″ apart. Use 2″ screws and glue, countersinking the screws.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Tabletop Pieces. Take a square of the tabletop. Then find the centers of the tabletop supports and the end aprons and mark. Line up the center tabletop pieces with these marks and fasten through the bottom using 2″ screws and glue. Minimize the gap between the tabletop boards as you go.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Tabletop Screw Hole Patterns. Mark out the screw holes on the tops of the table as shown above. Then predrill and screw the tabletop pieces to the end aprons. Make sure the table is square prior to doing this. Use the 2″ screws and glue.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Legs. Fasten the legs to the aprons, as shown above. Do not use glue if you would like the legs removable.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Cross Supports. For extra support, you can place a cross support on each corner as shown above. This will take any wiggle out of the table.

Preparation Instructions: 
<p> Fill nail holes with wood filler. Sand, distress, and finish as desired. Then send Ana your brag photos!</p>
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

Sounds like a great magazine. Wonder if we have them here in Canada. Will keep an eye out.

Also, I find it funny that there is always a new post from you when I check my blog feed at the end of the night. Thanks for staying up late to get these posted.

o.k. I was about to leave without leaving a comment, and scrolled back up the page... Your image you made... That is a stone floor! And your chairs have perfect fabric, AND there is shadow! Ana, YOU ROCK!!!

thanks for yet another set of fantastic plans! my hubs and I (mostly the hubs) are in the gathering stage of making the farmhouse table, gleaning old barn wood from a friend. I can't wait to actually have it in my house!

p.s. I love, love, LOVE the black and white parsons chairs in your first photo! I would like to try my hand at parsons chairs one of these days...

Ana, I know I'm just one of MANY, but I can't tell you enough how much I adore your blog, and you. thank you for all you do for us!

I got a copy of this magazine a couple months ago for a long plane flight - it very much reminds of you!!!

I love the new table design I want to make a big long narrow table this summer for our lake house to keep outside. Would you use pressure treated if you were going to leave it outside?

Menards also carries 2x3', just bought some to use as supports for a desk we are making.

Keep up the good "fight" and the good work.

Thanks! I just found you last week and have been obsessed ever since! I sold my table yesterday on Craigslist! Now I have to decide which of yours I am going to replace it with!!! Thank you!

Oohh... I really like this. Now I have to decide between this and the Farmhouse table for our dining room.
Also, no pressure, but I can't wait till you post plans for the Parson chair. If you needed someone to test one out before you posted, I would totally do it for you. = )

I don't normally find anything to question with your designs, Ana, but it looks like you left off part of the legs. Aren't they made with two pieces at 90-degree angles, rather than single boards? Sure looks that way in the photo.

Thanks for posting the cool plans. I get lots of ideas from you!

BTW, I think you should contact the magazine about doing some writing for them. It would gain more attention for your blog, and maybe for the book and the possible TV show.

I agree with Mike, the legs lack a necessary 'chunkyness' both for the aesthetics and to eliminate some wiggle. Love this- I'm gonna build it with the 2 piece legs like in so many of your other plans. Humm... do I want to sandwich 2 2x4 or or do the perpendicular L shape? I've learned so much from you!

Just want to take a second and let everyone know you can build the legs however YOU like. My plans just tried to duplicate the photo, and of course you could throw in a 4x4 post or a turned leg that is 29 1/4" long. Would love to see someone build this with a turned leg! Just remember standard table height is 30"

And I learn something everyday! We don't have 2x3s, but we have 4x4s up here. Thanks for correcting me, everyone!

I went to the bookstore (the very same one you went to, in fact!) to pick up a copy of this magazine. And while I did like it, I must admit I was disappointed with the "Hire or Do It Yourself?" article. They recommended hiring someone for almost everything! I personally plan to do most work on my house by myself, and it makes me sad that really only recommended painting walls.

By the way...you are amazing and I am so excited to get my 15yo daughter working on some of these projects! Thinking it would be neat to have the kids learn such a practical skill.

Too funny! I bought this very magazine for the first time EVER the same day that you posted about it. I loved the magazine - lots of great inspiration photos. I've been reading your blog for a couple of months and the list of projects I am planning to make keeps getting longer! I just need to find a way to borrow or buy a nail gun first! Thanks for all the awesome plans. I passed on your blog to a friend with a tight budget, a love for PB furniture and a handy husband and she is very excited! When I build my first piece - I will send a photo!
Jennifer

Would it be possible to put the legs a little further in from the corners? I mean so you would have a ledge of sorts overhanging on either end. I suppose you'd have to make the underframe shorter to do this. . .hmm just thinking. I LOVE your site and am so excited to get started on some projects this summer!

hmmm I think if I make it taller and use 4x4s for the legs and then make the top smaller...it just might work for a work surface/table in my laundry room! then I'll be able to slide laundry sorters under it! thanks ana!

I'm in the process of making this table and have run into a "hmmm...I wonder how to handle this" question. Let me state that this is my first project ever, so I'm a newbie. My problem is that there are gaps between my table top boards. What is the best way to minimize the gaps? I've sanded a little here and there, but I'm beginning to wonder if I'll ever get these boards to lay nicely side by side w/o gaps. I started with straight boards, so that shouldn't be too much cause for my error. Also, how should I fill any little gaps - wood filler or some sort of rubber sealer? Any suggestion would be welcomed. Love the website Ana - its inspiring!

Ana- you are awesome! I am almost finished with my first project- the bankable bookcase for my baby's room, and am looking for project #2- a dining table!

Has anyone made this table wider? I am thinking about adding 10'' to the width of the table, and was wondering if anyone has had success with that! Thanks!

What type of wood did you use for the top picture?
Did Jamie use the same type of wood on her table?
Also, what color stain?
AHh too many questions. Sorry! I'm starting to build this table with my Uncle on Saturday. It's a surprise gift for my parents for Christmas. They have been searching for "the perfect" dining room table. Well I say, what's better than a homemade one? right? :D Any help would be awesome and very much appreciated!

One issue I have with these plans is that it lists the 1x10s as 9.5" wide, but they are actually 9.25" wide. This means instead of having 1" of offhand on the sides you only have 1/2" overhang, which isn't really enough. We threw a 1x4 into the middle (since we had already built the apron/supports before we noticed) and it turned out fine.

Also, it says to cut 8 2x2" under table supports, but the plans only show 7 of them being used.

Overall, the table was simple enough, and it turned out great. We shortened it to only 6' long, but only because our dining room wouldn't handle the full 8'.

Great table! Thanks for the plans.

We are thinking of making this table but would like the final height to be counter height (36 inches). Can we just lengthen the legs? Or will other modifications need to be made?

I cannot wait to make this table, it is just what I have been looking for for our dining room. The only problem is that our dining room cannot support that size. How would I modify this plan to make it 5' long? Thanks for any help :)

my husband is currently making this table and we ran into the same problem as brad- he is adding a 1X6 in the middle as I wanted a little bit more of an overhang.

he also made the legs 4X4's and we went spendy on the table top. so far the approximate cost is $175dollars.

What magazine is everyone talking about? I can't find anything on this page giving a name... It sounds fantastic though and something I'd like to get me hands on.

ok. I made it! it rocks!!!!! Just the table. I used 3 1/2 by 3 1/2 legs that screw into a screw in plate I put on the bottom. Problem... table wobbles! even when legs are screwed on as tight as possible. Now... there is nothing on the table yet, which will help. Is it just that it's 8 feet long? I mean, these legs are THICK! Please help!!!!! These legs HAVE to be removable for storage... thanks so much!

Can you determine which leg is the problem? Is one a little shorter then the rest on a level surface? By shorter, I mean, one side of the table may be a little out of square. If you used store bought table legs, I am sure they are all the same length.

Is it possible to put washers between the table and the plate to lower that plate enough to get the leg firm to the floor with the rest of the legs? Might be able to put washers on the thread of the table leg (between the plate and the leg) as a way to "test". If the washers are hidden, then just leave it. If not you may need to add the washer between the table and the plate. Hope this helps. Just throwing out ideas...

If you add weight to the table you'll just change the frequency of the wobble.

Your problem is that the attachment isn't secure. If I understand what you've done correctly, you are trying to use a screw into end grain to secure the legs. That's not a secure joint.

There are a few ways to make a secure leg joint, and they all rely on mechanically making sure that it's impossible for the leg to move. I have a photo of one method I've used at knockdowndesk.com. I also talk a little bit there about some of the lessons I learned about making a secure leg joint, because my first efforts were not a raging success.

I would like to build this table and at the same time build the benches that go with it. Are there any specific plans that go to this Rustic Table? Please let me know. Thanks.

I have made the Providence table twice using the lumber in the plan However, the table tops (2x6) are not level with each other. I inspect the lumber at the yard. I do not have a planer, but the plans do not call for that tool.

What am I to do? or other words what am i doing wrong and how can i fix it?

Hi Ana, thank you for making woodworking seem so accessible and affordable to all! This is my first EVER project, which I started in order to teach myself some basics- I am not a very detail-oriented person, and I thought carpentry would help me develop that attention to following steps! Well, it didn't work that well, and I ended up drilling all the planks for the top of the table from the top down, instead of bottom-up! I have screw tops all over my table, but since I used the countersink bit as instructed, there is enough of a space to fill it with wood putty. However, the wood putty looks awful and it got crumbly, I guess I should sand it down and re-fill it? Also, won't it look awful when I stain it and it's covered in funny-looking polka dots?
epic fail.
Obviously I am learning a lot as I go and the next time I attempt one of your projects I will read all of the directions through TWICE before attempting.
thank you!

The photo of the finished table does not seem to include Step 3 which calls for the table top to be screwed into the apron. Putting screws in the top would be fine if it's painted, but not if you plan to stain and finish the wood. In that case is the top screwed into the apron from underneath? Thanks, pb

I dont understand why the leggs have to be in two different sizes, 1x4 and 2x4?

Can someone give me tips on the best way to attach 4x4 legs to this table from the inside so they can be removed? If I go straight through there isn't much of the screw in the apron which seems a bit unstable for that size leg. L brackets? Thanks

Can someone give me tips on the best way to attach 4x4 legs to this table from the inside so they can be removed? If I go straight through there isn't much of the screw in the apron which seems a bit unstable for that size leg. L brackets? Thanks

I have found your page recently and I cant express how amazing and wonderful all your plans are.

I was wondering if it is possible or if any one knows the metric measurements for this table. I have tried converting this although the numbers seem a bit off.

I am currently living in switzerland and one can request wood to be cut in centimeters. The Height, Length and Width would be great if any one could notify me. Or knows a practical way of converting the measurements.

Hi. People often use a special bracket called a "Surface Mount corner bracket" to make the legs easily detachable. Instead of screws going directly from the apron to the leg, the bracket is what holds the apron corner together.

They can be difficult to attach correctly. Don't be afraid to file down the corner to get a good flat surface before attempting to sink the bolts in the legs. Let me know if you have a question.

I would like to make this table but we don't have the space for a table this size. What would the cuts be if we wanted the table no bigger than 60 inches long?

I made this table (well mostly,my 14-year-old made it) and love it! We purchased clear pine at HD which made the process go much smoother for us. He also used the Kreg for the boards - magic! He tapered the legs as suggested by other fans. (He's not your typical 14-year-old, by the way - so talented, lucky me.) The total cost for this beautiful 8 foot table was $140 which included the nicer wood, wood conditioner (don't skip this!), stain, and poly. Right now I'm waiting to put the third coat of stain on the top. I painted the apron and the legs a creamy white. So excited. Thanks Ana!

Hello, I wanted to make the rustic table but I don't see plans for the bench. Are there any?
Thanks! Michele
LOVE the site. Just finished the raised garden bed!