Modish Adirondack Chair

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Modish Adirondack Chair

Well, you found it! My most favorite Adirondack Chairs! I can't stop building these! So simple, so easy to build, yet amazingly comfortable!

Special thanks to Fiona and Lael for sharing their amazing photos.

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

I'm totally in love with these chairs that Amy built

ACTUAL READER PHOTOS
Aren't they fantastic?  And I know many others are building these chairs too, and if I wasn't putting a roof on a playhouse, I'd be cutting boards too.

ADIRONDACK CHAIR PLANS, ANA STYLE
Amy used the plans here to build these chairs.  But I also had created a very similar version, and although I personally loved the design above the most (and that's why I blogged the plans first), I wanted to also give you the option of a slightly different, tad edgier, and a little lazier design

POTTERY BARN vs WEST ELM
The major difference with this design is it's got a slightly more modern influence.  Think Pottery Barn vs West Elm.  Like these. And the chair above is built without creating a curved lip, so the edge is going to be a little sharper.  But the chair above is also going to be easier to build because of the sharper edge.  We'll call this the Sharp Adirondack Chair.

SIDE BY SIDE

Here are the two chairs side be side.  Standard outdoor lounge seat height is 15", with the Original plan on the left coming in at 15 1/2" high, and the Sharp Adirondack Chair at 14 1/2".  Both seats have the same dimensions.  The purpose of adding this chair to the collection is to give you options.  If there is enough interest, I would be happy to add the child sized plan to this collection.

COMPARATIVE COSTS AND SKILL LEVEL
Costs are going to be very similar, with the Sharp Adirondack Chair being just slightly less.  But the Sharp Adirondack Chair is going to also be a little easier to build.

Shopping List: 

1 – 1×6, 8′ Length
4 – 1×4, 8′ Length
1 – 1×2, 8′ Length
1 – 1×3, 8′ Length
2″ Screws
1 1/4″ Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler

wood glue
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
compound miter saw
sander
General Instructions: 

Cut your boards and dry fit together. Finish the boards to seal all edges and to make finishing easier (it would be very difficult to paint your chair as a finished product). Work on a clean level surface. Check your project for square as you go along. Predrill and countersink your screws, using glue on all permanent joints. Work safely.

Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown in the above diagram
Cut List: 

2 – 1×6 @ 33 3/4″ (Stringers, cut in step 1)
1 – 1×6 @ 21″ (Front Apron)
5 – 1×4 @ 21” (Seat Slats)
5 – 1×4 @ 30 1/2″ (Seat Back Slats)
2 – 1×4 @ 19 1/2″ (Seat Back Supports)
1 – 1×2 @ 22 1/2″ (Seat Back Center Support)
2 – 1×4 @ 19 1/4″ (Legs, ends cut at 15 degrees off square parallel)
2 – 1×2 @ 21 3/4″ (Arm Supports, ends cut at 15 degrees off square parallel)
2 – 1×3 @ 21 3/4″ (Arm Rests

Step 1: 

STRINGERS
Cut your stringers as shown above.

Step 2 Instructions: 

FRONT APRON
Fasten the front apron to the fronts of the stringers as shown above.

Step 3 Instructions: 

SEAT SLATS
Fasten the seat slats as shown above in the diagram, using 2″ screws and glue.

Step 4 Instructions: 

SEAT BACK
Build the seat back as shown above, using 1 1/4″ screws and glue.

Step 5 Instructions: 

ASSEMBLY
Assemble the seat and back as shown above. Remember that the seat back sits at a 90 degree angle from the seat.

Step 6 Instructions: 

LEGS
Cut the front legs at 15 degrees off square on both ends, so that the ends are perpendicular. Mark as shown above in purple. Then from the inside of the seat, fasten the legs to the aprons.

Step 7 Instructions: 

ARM SUPPORTS
Cut your arm supports with both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel to each other. Fasten to the top edge of the legs and to the seat back as shown above.

Step 8 Instructions: 

ARM RESTS
Attach your arm rests to your arms, using glue and 1 1/4″ screws.

Step 9 Instructions: 

FINISHED TOP EDGE
If you have a Kreg Jig™, you could easily finish the top edge of the back as shown above by simply moving the back top support board to the top.

Step 10 Instructions: 

SOFA LENGTH
This chair plan can easily be converted to a five foot long sofa with just a few quick steps. I really love this styled sofa.

You will need to cut 10 more back slats and add 40″ to the length of the seat slats, front apron, and back supports. Of course, you could make your sofa shorter, but I would not go any longer.

Step 11: 

In addition, you will need to add supports under the seats as shown above. Make sure you also screw from the seat slats into the supports.

You should also add back support in the form of strong backs between the arms on the back to keep the back from pushing backward.

Step 12: 

And of course, you can trim the top out all cute and such!

Preparation Instructions: 
Your boards are most likely already finished. You can add a touch up coat by filling any exposed holes with wood filler or paintable silicone, lightly sanding, and painting over the chair.
Project Type: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

My advice is to have wider boards on the arm rests!!! We live in these chairs all summer and I LOVE LOVE LOVE having the wide boards to put eveything on. Thus not having to have things sitting on the ground or be reaching for my purse or something all the time. With the wide boards I can have my drinks, cell all the goodies etc.

Ana, You're amazing! You design/build amazing furniture, playhouses, etc...AND you have a beautiful garden, too!

I have never built anything in my life but really want some Adirondack chairs for our porch. I've read through your directions and it seems very doable- thus making me very excited. However, I am wondering if you have made the child-size plans yet? I would want one of those too since we have a two year old who loves to have his own size item that looks like the adult version.

Are there plans for the foot stools and side table in the pic with all the colored ones? I was wanted to build a sofa size and 2 of the chairs but I would like the side tables and foot stools too.

Dear Ana,
I appreciate very much your articles and most of all your achivements . I am from Europe (Romania)and as a beginer I try to do a Sharp Adirondack Chair following your instructions. I notice that if I cut the front legs to 15 degree ,paralel to each other , the high of the chair will not be 19 3/8 ( 48,4 cm) but much shorter .
It's really 15 degrees cut off , or maybe 1,5 degrees ???
Thank you in advance for your answer.
Regards
Razvan

I guess I have a question and a comment.  First, the comment.  I made the chair the other day and it was rather simple and looks very nice.  Thanks for all the detailed instructions.  Now for the question.  For the sofa, I see where you add the additional support for the seat, but I'm not understanding what you are saying about the back.

I'm in love with your Adiron Chairs... :-)

and wanted to be able to make also such as one, (I'm
a absolute beginner)
Unfortunately your drawings are not in metric measurement.

Kind regards :-)

Helga

I'm from the U.S., but I've bought a couple of plans from a Canadian woodworker that have measurements in a mix of imperial and metric units. While I'm comfortable working in both systems, conversions are always prone to inaccuracy, and his plans are as much engineering as woodworking.

My solution is to use metric measuring equipment. For the most part I have to mail order it from Canada (although perversely my nice metric ruler is made in the U.S.).

You could do the same in reverse. Some woodworking supplier in Australia will be selling measuring tools marked in imperial units. A folding rule would probably be sufficient, since a good one can measure two or three meters, which should be sufficient. I would check out Japanwoodworker.com, which sells to both Japanese and American woodworkers, and I think they have a presence in Australia.

I think your lumber there is actually marked in imperial units, probably because a significant portion of lumber in the world comes from the U.S. and Canada. I've seen the dimensions given backwards though. I don't know if that's Australians having some sport with Americans, or legitimately what is done. In any event, if you see lumber marked at 4x2, it's equivalent to our 2x4 lumber.

Thank you Claydowling, thats very nice, I'll try
to find a woodworker because I'm beginner.....

I live in the small country Austria not in Australia :-)

Have a nice day :-)

Helga

That's what I get for posting later in the day. Austria is definitely different than Australia. I would expect that it makes getting good measuring equipment even easier though.

Cut ends off square so that they're parallel... Cut ends off square so that they're perpendicular... You have a lot of plans, but all of them have errors.. Slow your posting down, and correct the errors first, rather than rushing to get a lot online

hello , question , for us old folks with stiff backs is there any way to make the angle not so steep ,, its mighty rough getting outta these boys ,, Thanks

Just out of curiosity...would it be bad to build these chairs out of cedar...is it too soft? I can only assume these plans are made out of pine? Is there a stronger but more cost effective wood to build these out of?

Also...any reason to not use 2x8's or 2x4's for the major structural weight bearing parts? Other then cost? Might last longer?