6 Frameless Full Overlay Euro Style Hinges like these
3 – 1×12, 8′ Length
1 – 1×6, 8′ Length
1/4″ plywood for the backs or another 1×6, 8′ Length
1 1/4″ nails
Paint or other finishing supplies
Cut List for the Desktop
2 – 1×12 @ 47″ (Tops and Bottoms)
4 – 1×12 @ 4″ (Ends and Dividers)
1 – 1×6 @ 47″ (Face)
1 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 5 1/2″ x 47″ OR 1 – 1×6 @ 47″ (Back)
Cut List for the Legs
4 – 1×12 @ 24 1/2″ (Sides of Legs)
6 – 1×12 @ 4″ (Tops and Bottoms and Shelves)
2 – 1×6 @ 24 1/4″ (Leg Faces)
2 – 1/4″ Plywood @ 5 1/2″ x 24 1/2″ OR 2 – 1×6 @ 24 1/2″ (Backs)
I’m so glad I built this piece before presenting the plans. Because when I went to attach the hinges, there was now where for the drill to go! So we had to do some tricky angle drilling to get the hinges in place, and I’m still wishing I could adjust my hinges properly. To avoid this, you may wish to paint in the areas where the hinges are being placed before assembling the desk (so you aren’t like me, with Grace’s tiny watercolor brush, painting around hinges). And we will put the hinges on before we put the tops on in these instructions.
As always, work on a clean level surface. Use straight boards. You can cut a sheet of MDF into 3 1×12 strips and 1 1×6 strip for the drawer faces (make that 2 1×6 strips and you can also use MDF for the backs instead of going out and buying 1/4″ plywood). Be safe. Remember, you can click images for a larger view.
Building the desktop is essentially the same as the legs, expect the size and the desktop has two “shelves” to the legs one “shelf.” So I will just be giving you basic diagrams for the desktop with instructions for the legs.
Or shelves for when you assemble the legs. For the desktop, use 2″ nails and glue to fasten the dividers to the bottom, as shown above. Also do the sides, but place your shelves in any desired position to accommodate your needs.
Ends and Hinged Front
Start by attaching the ends, just as you did the partitions, shown above in green. Keep outsides flush. Then attach the face with the hinges only on the insides of the partitions, with the face flush with the bottom and the outsides of the desktop. Notice that the top will overextend 3/4″. Do this for the legs too, except choose your bottom and line the face up with the bottom (it will be just shy of the top to give the desktop room to open).
A modern architectural statement, that opens up to reveal storage and a keyboard tray. The desk that I used to write this very blog.
These hinges are surface mount and are extremely easy to install and work great. They are my fav.
Lay the top on top of the desktop and fasten down with 2″ nails and glue. Do this for the legs too.
You can either use 1/4″ plywood cut to size for the backs or use 1×6 boards (same cuts as faces) for the backs. Use glue and 1 1/4″ nails to fasten the back to the units. Do this for the legs too.
Finishing and Assembly
Dry fit everything and make sure that the top will open correctly without rubbing against the leg faces. If this is the case, simply trim the tops of the leg faces until the desktop face opens smoothly. You can remove the faces from the hinges and paint each piece individually. Fill nail holes with wood filler and sand well. I used a cabinet sized roller to reach into the units with paint. On assembly, I used 1 1/4″ screws from the insides of the top of the legs into the underside of the desktop to keep everything in place.
I just wanted to add that I have never had a desk I loved so much, I’m adamant about using coasters on. I