Playhouse Loft Bed

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Playhouse Loft Bed

Building a playhouse bed is easier than you think with this straight forward plan. It's a big project, it's going to take patience and persevering, but as so many of our readers have discovered, well worth the hard work!

Special thanks to Kimberly for sharing her amazing photos of Princess Katherine's bed.

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Before I start this post, reason with me.

 

Does Grace really need a new bed?

 

A new bed that would essentially remodel here entire room?  Yep, it would takeover this very wall. (plans for clip art rails)

And all this storage would be gone.  (plans for bookcase and chair)

Not that I couldn't find a home for her bed (plans for the upholstered toddler daybed here)

 

And her cute bedding would be hidden . . .

but that is sooooo tempting!

Well, the next best thing to Grace having this playhouse loft bed is you having it.

Shopping List: 

2 sheets of 3/4″ MDF, particle board or plywood (sanded to reduce splinters)
7 – 1x2s, 8′ long
15 – 1x3s, 8′ long (not including 1x3s for mattress slats)
6 – 1x4s, 8′ long
3 – 2×2, 8′ long
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
2″ Screws
1 1/4″ finish nails
2″ finish nails
wood glue
wood filler
Finishing Supplies

wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
jigsaw
nailer
sander
level
countersink drill bit
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above. This bed does not include the storage stairs (see add on plan)
Cut List: 

53 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Rails)
4 – 1×4 @ 80″ (Top and Bottoms of Rails)
4 – 1×3 @ 11 1/2″ (End of Rails – Front and Back rails)
1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 48″ x 80″ (Front Plywood)
8 – 1×3 @ 68 1/2″ (Legs)
1 – 1×3 @ 75″ (Top Front Trim)
2 – 1×3 @ 36″ (Door Trim)
1 – 1×3 @ 31″ (Door Trim)
1 – 1×3 @ 38″ (Front Trim)
1 – 1×3 @ 6″ (Front Trim)
6 – 1×3 @ 21″ (Window Trim)
2 – 1×3 @ 26″ (Window Trim)
4 – 1×3 @ 2″ (Top Leg Filler Pieces)
2 – 1×3 @ 45 1/2″ (Back Leg Filler Pieces)
1 – 1×3 @ 80″ (Back Base Trim)
2 – 1×4 @ 37 1/2″ (Top and Bottom of Side Rail)
2 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 48″ x 37 1/2″ (Side Plywood)
4 – 1×3 @ 37 1/2″ (End Trim)
2 – 1×3 @ 25 1/2″ (Window Trim)
2 – 1×4 @ 21 3/4″ (Ladder End Rail Top and Bottom)
1 – 1×2 @ 66 1/2″ (Ladder Inside Support)
2 – 1×2 @ 43″ (Ladder Spacer)
2 – 2×2 @ 48″ (Ladder Sides)
5 – 1×2 @ 15 3/4″ (Ladder Rungs)
2 – 1×3 @ 13 1/2″ (Ladder Side Window Trim)
2 – 2×2 @ 75″ (Cleats for the mattress support frame)
1x3s @ 39″ (Mattress Slats, as recommended by the mattress company)

Step 1: 

Front and Back Railing

Build two of these – one for the front, and one for the back. Simply drill two pocket holes on both ends of all of the rails (blue) and ends (yellow). Mark the top and bottoms (pink) with 3″ spaces, remembering that a 1×3 is actually 2 1/2″ wide and a 1×2 is actually 1 1/4″ wide. Use glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the rails to the tops and bottoms, as shown above. Set aside.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Front Plywood

Mark out your front plywood as shown above. Use a jigsaw to carefully cut out the windows and doors.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Front Legs

Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue to attach the plywood and the rails to the legs, as shown in the diagram. Keep bottom and outside edge flush.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Top Trim

Attach the 1×3 to the front of the bed. Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue,overlapping the rails by 1″, hiding the joint between the railing and the plywood.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Door Trim

You can get your nailer out now. Or continue to use 1 1/4″ screws. And glue. Keep inside edges of the door as flush as possible.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Front Trim

Add the remaining trim, as shown above. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Window Trim

Add the window trim as shown in the diagram. Use 1 1/4″ finish nails or screws and glue.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Window Trim

Trim out the window as shown above. You can alternately build your window frame with a Kreg Jig™, and then attach to the plywood front.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Top Fillers

Add the top pieces to the tops of the legs to fill in the gaps. Avoid overnailing and splitting the wood. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue.

Click on the page links below for the complete instructions on building the back up next.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Legs and Railing

Attach two legs to the railing as shown above (on on each side – you should still have four legs left). Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Leave 2″ at the top of the legs. Adjust for square.

Step 11: 

Back Bottom Trim

Attach with 1 1/4″ screws and glue the back bottom piece as shown above.

Step 12: 

Back Trim

Fill in the exposed gaps with 1×3 trim boards as shown above. Use 1 1/4″ fasteners and glue.

And now we have two of the wall built! Click on the page links below to see how to build the side walls.

Step 13: 

Build the Side Railing

For the side without the ladder, build the railing as shown above with a Kreg Jig™. Drill two holes in each of the rails ends, and use 1 1/4″ pocket holes and glue to attach the rails to the tops and bottoms of the rails
Step 14: 

Legs

Attach the legs to the sides of the plywood and the railing. Your best bet is to use pocket holes, drilled from the plywood, screwing into the legs (same with the railing). Use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. Center the plywood and the railing on the legs.

Step 15: 

Trim

Attach the trim to both the legs and the plywood,overlapping and attaching to the railing also (as you did the front,overlapping 1″). Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue, 1 1/4″ pocket holes and glue to attach to the legs.

Step 16: 

Window Trim

The best way to go on window frames is to build them separately with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws, and then tap on with finish nails and glue. You can alternately attach with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue.

This completes the end wall without the ladder. Click on NEXT PAGE below to see how to build the ladder end.

Step 17: 

Ladder End Rail

As you built the other rails, build the ladder end rails as shown above.

Step 18: 

Ladder End Plywood

Cut your ladder end plywood as shown above, carefully cutting out the window.

Step 19: 

Legs

As you did with the other sides, add the legs to the plywood and railing. Best option is pocket hole screws (1 1/4″ pocket hole screws) or 2″ screws and glue from the outside.

Step 20: 

Ladder Railing Support

So I tossed and turned on this one, knowing that little hands are going to be pulling on the top of this railing and knowing it needed to be sturdy. The best bet was to run a support down the entire length of the inside. Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue to attach the 1×2 to the inside as shown above. Notice how it’s flush with the end of the railing?

Step 21 Diagram: 
Step 21: 

Ladder End Trim

Just like you did the other end, add the trim boards. Use glue and 1 1/4″ screws or nails. Overlap the railing by 1″ to keep the railing in place.

Step 22 Diagram: 
Step 22: 

Ladder Spacer

You’ll need this as a spot to secure your ladder too. Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue.

Step 23 Diagram: 
Step 23: 

Window Trim

Best bet? Build the window frame separately with a Kreg Jig, and attach the window to the plywood with finish nails and glue. You can also attach each piece separately.

Step 24 Diagram: 
Step 24: 

Ladder

Build the ladder with the 2x2s and 1x2s, using 2″ screws and glue. Space the rungs 7″ apart, leaving less room at the top. Screw to the end with 2″ screws and glue.

You have built all four walls! Click on the page links below to see how to assemble the four walls and add the mattress slat

Step 25 Diagram: 
Step 25: 

This bed is built in such a manner that you can attach the four walls easily, creating a leg that looks like a solid post. Use 2″ screws from the inside and leave off the glue for easy dis assembly. Adjust the entire playhouse for square.

Step 26 Diagram: 
Step 26: 

To allow your mattress to “breath” slats are the best way to go. You can purchase metal brackets, or use a 2×2, glued and screwed to the insides of the rails, as shown here.

Step 27 Diagram: 
Step27: 

Install slats by laying on the cleat and screwing down. Leave the glue off so you can remove the slats. Place the slats according to your mattress recommendations.

Preparation Instructions: 
Aw the fun part . . . good luck!
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 

Comments

So cute! Love it! I'm in the middle of the playhouse outside though... hmm does my daughter need two playhouses? Maybe... :) Do you think putting another mattress underneath would work? (practically we need bunk beds but this is too adorable!)

I've seen one in a store similar to this one but with drawers where the windows are. The playhouse can then double as a playhouse and clothing or toy storage...

I wouldn't say that she needs the bed but oh my what kid wouldnt want that for a bed. Our 3 year old is currently sleeping in the top of a bunk bed that was removed from its bottom bunk. The bed is from pottery barn and we purchased it about 5 years ago. Once she hets a little older i am going to retro fit it to fit on top of your design. you are the best.
Thanks Ana for all your inspiration

That is so cute! Boy, I really wish I'd found your website EIGHT years ago! LOL My little ones are getting too big for some of this stuff. But I love seeing your plans for it all! Soooo adorable!

..................hmmm... I do have a 9MO nephew though............................ ;)

I showed this to my husband and how we could easily make a few simple decoration additions so it would be a firetruck! We need more tools before we can tackle anything like this though!

I would love to see this plan with out the play house, although my son may like it, not really sure yet. But you are awesome because we needed this just in time for his birthdya in January :D

Has anyone made this bed or had a "questimate" of how much it would cost??? I am so glad my sister showed me this site!! I AM SO EXCITED TO BUILD THIS BED... Well my Bf will build i will paint :P

I have been looking for detailed plans for loft beds for my 2 daughters (7 and 11). My youngest has a very small room and this leaves her with little room to play. These plans are great and look relatively easy to build. (just need to clean the garage to make room to work) I did a quick cost estimate at the big blue store and it seems that the lumber will run around $160 using MDF.

Maybe with these plans, I can convince my wife that I can build these and that it won't turn into another toy box disaster. Good and sturdy boxes, just way too big.

This is adorable.. I'm wondering if it is big enough to put another mattress in the bottom? I was thinking about bunk beds but this is WAY 2 cute!

We purchased everything at Lowes with our 10%-off Military Discount, minus the front panel. Our total came out to just over $250 after the discount. We live in West Texas currently, if that makes a difference :-) HTH!

This is almost exactly the type of bed I've been wanting for my boys, but couldn't afford. Their room is the size of a walk-in closet and we can't even fit their toys (currently in our family room) in there. Being that they are still young, I didn't want a bunk with a ladder. I saw the storage stairs online and fell in love, but it is so expensive! I love the lid storage way better than the drawer storage steps. I have two questions. 1. How can this be converted to a bunk bed? will it still be sturdy if you remove the walls? I would really love to make the bottom like a platform/storage bed with additional drawers/storage under the bottom bunk. 2. Can this be modified to be toddler sized beds?

Laurie, I would consider just making a bunk bed, and then attaching the storage stair plans to the side. I totally get you on small rooms, the bedrooms in my house are like 8 x 10 with a closet in them too. If you did a bunk, you could then build a trundle for storage, with the storage stairs claiming every inch in your room for storage. I do NOT recommend doing a toddler bunk, as codes for bunks are 7 years and older, too old for a toddler mattress. Of course, you can do anything you wish (that's the beauty of DIY) but I can't make that recommendation. Good luck, I'm excited for you!

I have had an idea somewhat like this in my head forever I would like to modify your plans to make them safer for my toddlers perhaps bringing the railings all the way to the ceiling. I like to think i know a bit about woodworking but to be honest I am so scared to attepmt this project. Following you plans seem a little to complicated for me I hope that I can find someone to help.

I love this idea! Although I am thinking of converting it to a fort for my two little guys. I saw where one of your followers converted it to a full size. I like this idea because I am thinking of doing this for the playroom and using it as a guest bed... my question is what do you think the weight limit is for this bed???? maybe one or two adults?????

Daddy is making this for miss Krista, age 6 soon! She is so excited and wants me to take her to this page daily! We also have decided to make this our hobby together, and we have plans to build a whole lot of things off your website. Thanks so much for sharing all the plans and details!!

Hi, I wondered what the difference is for the left side of the bed (Kimberly & Katherine's picture) versus the drawn plans. Is the ladder replaced with stairs? Are there any pictures/plans showing the revision they did?
Seriously thinking about this!!
Britney

First of all I love your site. My to do list is filling up very quickly. We are about to combine my daughters into one room and are planning on building a loft bed. We have a picture of a corner loft bed with two twins. I am so glad I found your site because we were just going to go for it and have never built anything before, but now we can use your awesome plans. So my question is: I want to use this bed but I need it to have two twin beds on the top (a L shape so that it goes into the corner). How should we revise these plans to make it so that way and have one big open space underneath? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.

Im almost 16 and I want this bed in my room! Maybe not pink though ;)

Step 13 directs you to a link that I can't find and in these direction it doesn't talk about the end railings and the measurements for building them. I am not going to build the door or the windows and I am going to add the stair case at the end so, I am in the process of deleting certain steps and making some changes with this plan. I need to make sure that I don't omit something that I will need in the long run. Can someone explain step 13 to me or give me the link?

And Samantha Willis will get a bed similar but not exactly. Sam is my daughter.

I'm making 2 of these for my children this Christmas using the base designs and changing a few things to make them look a little different. A Castle for my son and a Fairy Den for my daughter.

Firstly I need to convert everything over to Metric. Am quite confused about the size of the mattress. I've seen some brag posts stating that they are twin sized. Now in Aus would that be equivalent to a single or a double or a king single? I've had a brief look around the internet but I don't know if i'm getting the measurements correct.

I've also already got 2 single bed bases that I am considering pulling apart and using the slat base for. Could you see anything wrong with doing this? I am already assuming i'll have to redraw a lot to meet metric sizing. Am already feeling quite a bit overwhelmed!

Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated!

xx Jade-Elise Newell

Hi Jade-Elise,
Itoo am from Oz and have fallen in love with this design, especially the add-on stairs, just what hubby and I have been looking (SuperAmart has a loft style bed with desk & wardrobe).
I just converted all the measurements to cm (I used this website http://www.manuelsweb.com/ft_in_cm.htm)
I did a bit of research for you (& I) on the web, Twin size measurements are: 39" x 75" which is 99.1cm x 190.5cm.
That's a great idea to use old bed bases.

Cheers Bec

This is amazing. I want to make it for my little girls but I need to convert to a full size mattress. Someone in the list wrote that they saw it done, but are there revised plans for that? I would love the help please.

I'm in the process of building this bed but converted the plans to suit a top Full Size mattress and inside of the playhouse a single size with 2 steps inside. Also building the stairs version but making the steps as drawers instead.
I've also raised the rails since my daughters move too much in their sleep and even get up and move about!
Finally, I'm putting a back wall and some lighting.
The width of the inside of the walls become 53" vs. 37.5.
Once I complete mine I will post the pictures and steps.
I'm doing this bed as a surprise for my daughters who are away so I'm building it on my own. Couldn't use MDF due to its weight and so using something lighter and more manageable. However, I would still recommend MDF or some hardwood.
I chose this design because of the size of the room. I had 3 designs ready until I chose this layout.
I was going to go with 5 ft height but you run into problems with wood boards being 4ft in width and then you'd have to make the design within the height of your doors so you can disassemble and move the bed. So I stuck with 4 ft high. The inside mattress will be at about 2ft height. Not that high but that's the best I could do with what I have.

Hello,
I just returned to this site to find out my previous reply to you wasn't there. So maybe it never posted. Sorry.
So I finished it and here are the pictures I posted of it:
http://ana-white.com/2011/10/custom-playhouse-bunkbed
Also see more detailed pictures here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Resource.expert/PlayhouseBunkbedSurprise?au...

I can get you specific dimensions if interested.

Abe

What is the most weight this bed has held? Has the dimensions for the full size version been posted?
What is the easiest way to increase the height of the bed? I plan on building the stairs so I need to alter those, too.

Well, I did test the top bunk myself, a little over 200 lbs, but I did not build it for a large adult since the spacing is rather large width wise.
As for the bottom bunk, I laid down in it with both my kids and I'm very comfortable with it carrying over 250 lbs. In comparison with traditional kids beds I've evaluated, I built it stronger with added support.
Going back to the top bunk, I didn't do any scientific testing but based on my judgement I would be comfortable with up to 150 lbs but no horseplay!
The stairs are built using the traditional Pine stairs used in homes so they can hold quite a bit of weight. If I recall right they are slightly over 1" in thickness.
I didn't post the plans.
Regarding the height, I spent a lot of time studying the maximum height of both bunks. I optimized the height of the top bunk. You cannot go any higher unless you completely change the design and use a lot more wood boards. You are limited to 4' x 8' (standard board size).
I can get you the basic dimensions if interested so let me know.

Please send me the dimensions for the fullsize bed. I'll double check my numbers with yours!
thanks your reply, i'll make some changes based on your info.

Sorry for the delay...
I just finished documenting some of my dimensions and included them in the photo album linked below.

Note that some might not agree with the height of my top bunk rails that hold the cleats. They are at 4' even!
Hope this helps.
I will be covering the inside walls with colored carpeting! It will also act as a noise insulator so the kids won't wake up early AM from street noise.
https://plus.google.com/photos/103590147643813514240/albums/56496973048

Thank you for posting this abz! My dimensions matched yours so I will be starting next weekend. I plan on adding height to the bed by putting a 1 x 8 on the bottom so that the inside height will accommodate a 4' 6" person. I'm also making my rails with the extra height as my little one is prone to falling. I'll post pics as I work on it.

I LOVE this bed. I have a 2 year old daughter, by the time we're in the states again, she'll be 3. This would be perfect for her! Only issue, is that we're a military family. We'll probably be moving every three years or so for a long time... How hard would this be to take down and reassemble, since I'm assuming it wouldn't just fit through a standard door? lol

It's not too hard but be warned it will be very heavy. The one I built was very heavy and the longest side was very heavy and required at least 2 strong men to move.
If you build a stair case then make sure your design allows for easy disassembly.
I built my staircase as a separate unit which I slid in place. That's not the case for some other stair cases I saw here and online.
Best of luck.

This bed can easily be taken down and moved. The weight is an issue but since you are in the military I assume your or significant other will be physically fit. I can move the pieces by myself and i'm not in that good of shape. I made mine with plywood not mdf. You will definitely need help to move the pieces made of mdf.

Can this bed be made without the house at the bottom, and still be stable? I love the look of the loft bed, but would prefer to have it without the house underneath. How could I go about this to modify it?

Can this bed be made without the house at the bottom, and still be stable? I love the look of the loft bed, but would prefer to have it without the house underneath. How could I go about this to modify it?

I finished my bed! My 3 year old daughter loves it! Followed the plans with changes made for full size bed. The plans were clear and well done. I used a .322” bead board and 1/2” plywood glued together for the front. The difference in thickness is not noticeable. I also added a 1x8 to the bottom of the plywood to give my interior height 4’ 7 1/8” instead of 4 feet. It worked great! I should have pocket drilled from the plywood into the 1x8 instead of the other way but the trim and posts shored it up. I also added a 1x3 layed flat under the mattress cross pieces with one screw in each board. It made the mattress frame much more solid across the full size width. You won’t need this for a twin size. I knew that I would have 5 little girls playing on it at a time as soon as it opened for business. I also read to my girls every night and I knew that it would have to support me. I can say that it supports me, and both my daughters for a total weight of 280lbs. I’m sure it could easily hold more. I hung from the back rail before the bed was finished and it didn’t budge! This think is strong! It took me and my uncle approx 35 hours to build and another 10 to paint! This could have been faster but I kept double checking my measurements and the plans. Here is the link to my plans.
https://www.facebook.com/#!/media/set/?set=a.317194951656199.71003.24852...

Great work, looks great and a job well done.
Yes it's certainly time consuming unless you've done them before. Mine took a very long time because I was alone and was coming up with the plans as I worked and double checking myself plus it was my first such job.
I like the added height idea.

So, can this, with the added storage stairs and alterations to a larger bed size (king or two twins), be made for under $300? I've seen other estimations of cost. I'm just wondering how much costs would increase for larger capacity alterations. My idea is basically two twins up top for my two boys with the entire bottom for play. I would put in a partial wall divider in the bottom center (where the twin mattresses would meet in the middle up top) so it would be like two of them together with a shared partial interior wall. Or in the L-shape for a corner wall as someone mentioned already. Would this work? Does anyone know how much it might cost?

I want to build one for my two boys and another for my two girls in the fall. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. :O)

The lumber, screws and paint cost about $650. I used "choice" 1x's from Lowes for everything. I skimped on the plywood grade and would not do that on the next one. I bought CD plywood instead of AC. The partial wall may make it a bit tight inside but that is your call. I think the corner idea would work great. If you have the room put the twin beds on opposite walls and build a bridge! If you put them in the corner, the corner area could be open to the beds so that would make the underside seem huge!

I agree with BakwoodJ. Mine cost over $1000 which includes 2 mattresses and the drawers. I too skimped on the walls but would never do that again. I think actual costs should be even higher than initial.
Note that standard wood boards are 4x8 so if you make the width wider than 4 feet like myself then your design will become a bit more complex so you'll need to spend time re-designing.
Now, if you plan to make the bed as wide as you say then you're up for many challenges. Having an inside divider wall would help solve your load issue.
My stairs were a separate unit that I slid in place. The benefit of that is: No load on walls - load is vertical and can pretty much handle more than 300 lbs. Also, no squeaking noise. Helpful for me as I wake my daughter up on top for school while the other stays asleep.
Finally, assembly & disassembly is much easier.
Costs add up with such a piece of furniture but it's worth it at the end.

I want to do this for a full bed and see that it was talked about above but I do not see the dimentions and materials list. Anyone have this?

Ana this bed with steps should it be attached to wall threw slat cleats? My granddaughter now 3 likely to young but when 4-5 l would like to build take a[part move from ontario to nova scotia for my grandaughter she would love it.
jim ontario

I don't want to post a brag until I'm complete... still a few shelves to build and I think I'm going to modify the rail. Then I can paint. I have to say, MDF is heavy. Queen beds are heavy, and you are going to be blown away when you see how awesome this bed it! It has stairs and a slide and hide-away storage under both!

Thank you for sharing your interesting projects with us.I've recently built this great playhouse bed for my little boy and I still have to buy some stair parts in order to have it ready until the next week when my boy returns from vacation.I have to admit that even if you provided all the necessary information it was not very easy to build this bed but finally I made it.

Hi, everyone. We are about to finish our loft bed. We are on step 26 where you attach the cleats to the bottom of the rails and then put the slats on. The instructions say to use 2" screws to attach the cleat. I have been using #8 wood screws for the other parts of the project. Is a #8 2" screw going to be sufficient to hold the weight? And how far should we space them?

One note - we have modified the plans slightly. Instead of a "bed" this is a reading loft. So we are not using a mattress. Instead we are using a piece of 5/8" plywood. Our kids are young - 6 & 8 - and we expect them to both be up there at the same time.

Should we do anything else to make this modified loft support that kind of weight?

Hi, everyone. We are about to finish our loft bed. We are on step 26 where you attach the cleats to the bottom of the rails and then put the slats on. The instructions say to use 2" screws to attach the cleat. I have been using #8 wood screws for the other parts of the project. Is a #8 2" screw going to be sufficient to hold the weight? And how far should we space them?

One note - we have modified the plans slightly. Instead of a "bed" this is a reading loft. So we are not using a mattress. Instead we are using a piece of 5/8" plywood. Our kids are young - 6 & 8 - and we expect them to both be up there at the same time.

Should we do anything else to make this modified loft support that kind of weight?

I personally think that should suffice. I also glued the cleats. I'm over 200lbs and I laid down on the top bunk (Mine is a Full size) along with my 2 kids! Should be more than enough for your purpose.
My spacing was about 4" but I did that since the distance is larger due to the larger mattress size.

Thanks Abzman, for your reply. I did some further research and think I'm going to make sure I use Gorilla glue when I glue the cleats on for added strength because I already primed and painted the cleats.

I also do not have plywood on the one long wall -- I believe you added plywood to the wall where Ana's project plans have the space open. I think I'm going to add 2 additional 1x3s spaced eventing to support the railing there just in case. I'm going to take your advice about the 4" spacing of the screws.

And lastly, I think I'm going to run down to the hardware store and check out what they have for various brackets or braces that I could use underneath those cleats.

Everyone says how sturdy the structure is, but I guess I'm paranoid and worried about the fact that I'm a beginner with woodworking. I worry that maybe I made some other structural error somewhere else that might cause a problem. Anyway, I'm going to take a few more steps to shore it up and make it as sturdy as possible.

Thanks!

Hi Jackie,
I agree with being extra safe. I wouldn't add L brackets to all cleats but I would focus mostly on the center so as to help provide more stability and hold the center together.
I've actually screwed in some of the cleats.
Good luck and be sure to share pictures.

The cut list calls for 840.75" of 1x2, or 8.75 8' boards. Even without accounting for cut/blade width and scrap, this is more than the 7 1x2's called for in the material list.

The 1x2 cuts listed total 840.75" (8.75 1x2s @ 8'), not including cut/blade width and scrap. The material list calls for 7 1x2s, or 672". I'd recommend getting 9 or 10 1x2s.

Hi, I'm in Australia and am seriously thinking about getting this built for my youngest daughter's birthday.
I need the measurements in metric though. Can anybody help with this? Can someone also point me in the direction of the plans for the add on stairs? (as I prefer those to a ladder)
Thanks

I have a 12X13 room that I would love to put two of these in, with at least 1 of them having stairs...I'm having a tough time configuring them though...I figure I could do 1 without stairs and have 1 with and they they both share the stairs...but my brain can't figure it out...HELP?!?!

Do you plan to have them back to back or end to end or farther apart? If I had room I'd also build a bridge between the two to make the set up look like a castle.
If side by side you could build center stairs with a common landing.

Oooh I think that the common stairs would work...I was going with an "L" shape thought in my head...the one wall at 144(12ft) would be hard since the beds in an L shape would be 144.5" but with a common landing in the middle it would work. thanks!!

Approximately how much would this cost? I love this and I want to fix this in my granddaughters bed room. Please reply as soon as possible so I can get started. Also will Lowe's have everything that I need to finish the project? Thank you

I am in the process of making this loft using metric wood dimensions and to suit a UK size single bed. I am building with Redwood and 25mm thick MDF, which I purchased for 230 GBP from a local timber supplier in England. I have also purchased the Kreg jig set and screws. Including paint (Plasti-Kote spray paint) I am expecting the job to cost around 300 GBP. I will post pictures once (if) completed.

Do you need to put a twin box spring mattress or just the mattress? My husband is working on this today and I am trying to see what all I need to buy. Thanks.

The difference between a TWIN mattress and a FULL matress is only its width. it comes out to be 15"

When building this add 15" to the side measurements as well as the railing depth.

Just curious on how everyone hid all of their pocket holes, especially for the all of the railings along the top. Are all of the pocket holes facing towards the inside of the mattress so you don't see them when you're standing in front of the loft playhouse bed?

I know Kreg sells plugs to plug up the holes made by the pocket screws, did anyone use them or did you just leave the holes?

Just curious on how everyone hid all of their pocket holes, especially for the all of the railings along the top. Are all of the pocket holes facing towards the inside of the mattress so you don't see them when you're standing in front of the loft playhouse bed?

I know Kreg sells plugs to plug up the holes made by the pocket screws, did anyone use them or did you just leave the holes?

Just curious on how everyone hid all of their pocket holes, especially for the all of the railings along the top.  Are all of the pocket holes facing towards the inside of the mattress so you don't see them when you're standing in front of the loft playhouse bed?

I know Kreg sells plugs to plug up the holes made by the pocket screws, did anyone use them or did you just leave the holes?

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