Restaurant High Chair
My four year old loves to sit in this chair, we had to remove the front and back supports so that she could fit into it. Cause she still want ot sit in it.
Well, it's not the one you keep asking for :( but I think many of you will love it just the same.
Or at least as much as Grace loves her newest chair.
She's faster than the camera can focus, so excuse the picture quality. It's really the high chair we are after anyway :)
Here is the side view. It's so simple, and made mostly of 1x2 furring strips (less than $1 each) but is surprisingly sturdy.
Am I done yet mom?
Cause this is way more fun.
Okay I'm done. Where's the candy you promised. (yes, I did, I bribed her with candy. I'm a mom, not a parenting expert).
And one more close up of the simplicity of this chair. Yes, that is pink paint on her legs. It's amazingly easy to build, inspired by the simple but useful high chairs found at restaurants, and loves a bright paint.
And here is the best part. After building the high chair, I decided that it need a few slight tweaks for you. These tweaks are shown in the above diagram. By making the seat a 1x10 instead of a 1x12, getting chubby legs into the leg holes will be much easier. You can add a strap to keep your child from falling through. Then I brought the bottom supports up so that your toes could fit under them making it easier to pick the chair up and move it. And lastly, I made the entire chair just a tad narrower to fit more compact spaces and to remove unnecessary side room. I love Grace's chair - but yours is going to be even better!
3 – 1×2 boards, 8′ long
1 – 1×4 board, 15″ long
1 – 1×10 board, 15″ long (you can substitute 3 – 1x4s joined instead if you don’t have a 1×10 laying around)
4 – 1×2 @ 26 3/16″ (Legs, both ends cut at 5 degrees parallel to each other)
2 – 1×2 @ 15″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, bottom sides)
2 – 1×2 @ 11 3/4″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, middle sides)
2 – 1×2 @ 10 11/16″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, top sides)
2 – 1×2 @ 16″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, bottom supports)
1 – 1×4 @ 12 9/16″ (long point to long point, ends cut at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, seat back)
1 – 1×2 @ 12″ (short point to short point, ends beveled at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, front)
1 – 1×10 @ 13″ (short point to short point, ends beveled at 5 degrees NOT parallel to each other, seat)
Build the sides as shown above. Drill pocket holes in all the horizontal boards ends, two per end. Mark the sides, clamp, and glue and screw together with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Now here is where things get a little tricky. Drill pocket holes on both ends of the bottom supports, two per end. Mark the sides 3 1/2″ up. Then glue, clamp and screw with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws the bottom supports to the sides. Center the bottom supports on the width of the legs. A right angle clamp would be super handy here, but I don’t have one, and was just fine.
Drill pocket holes in the back of the seat. Attach with glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes on both ends of the front and attach to the tops of the legs with glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
The seat will sit at the back, leaving room for the legs at the front. Cut the seat so the ends are beveled at 5 degrees of square, with the seat length short point to short point 13″ long. On the underside of the seat, drill three pocket holes along each of the beveled edges. Screw the seat to the sides.
I finished mine by filling pocket holes with wood filler. It took three applications of wood filler to completely fill the holes. Then a thorough sanding with 120 grit sandpaper. Then primer and paint, followed by a spray on top coat. Add a strudy strap to the center and a safety belt (tip – use a dog leash or a belt)