1 – 2×2 Board, 8′ Long
1 – 1×2 Board, 8′ Long
1 – 1×4 Board, 10′ Long OR 19″x19″x3/4″ Plywood Panel for seat
1 – 2×4, stud length or 8′ long ( pick one that is straight with minimal knots and lightweight – means it’s drier)
2″ Pocket hole screws
1 1/4″ Pocket hole screws
2 – 2×4@36″ (Back Legs)
6 – 2×2 @ 16″ (Seat Back and Aprons)
2 – 2×2 @ 17 1/4″ (Front Legs)
1 – 1×2 @ 16″ (Seat Back Seat Top)
2 – 1×2 @ 6 1/2″
4 – 1×2 @ 5 3/4″
2 – 1×2 @ 6 7/8″
6 – 1×2 @ 3 1/4″
2 – 1×2 @ 3″
4 – 1×2 @ 2 1/2″
5 – 1×4 @ 19″ OR 19″x19″ Plywood seat top
CAREFULLY cut out your chair legs as shown above. Use either a circular saw or a jigsaw. Sand the legs so that they match each other. Transfer the middle markings around the leg so you know where the seat goes.
Build the Seat Back Frame
Build the seat back frame as shown above. Use 2″ pocket hole screws when joining 2x2s and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws when joining 1x2s. Make sure you set your jig accordingly. Use glue.
A stylish modern chair. Large seat, low back.
Okay, this part isn’t hard so much that it is tedious and super easy to get off square. A trick that I used was to drill all my pocket holes on the back so filling pocket holes (and sanding) as super easy. If you are staining, you may consider using wood dowels. Anyway, cut out all the pieces and arrange. Drill all the pocket holes and arrange again. Start by screwing together the longer 90s first. Then build all the smaller 90s. Then arrange, mark, and attach the smaller 90s to the inside of the larger 90s. Then add the joining pieces to connect all the square. I promise, this step is quiet easy. Use glue. And yes, the chair back is super strong and looks fine with a 1×2. Looks so good, I must also put plans up for the headboard and more! Oh, yes, CHECK FOR SQUARE before the glue dries! Finally, screw the squares into the back of the chair. Set the back aside.
Attach chair front legs to the front apron. Use glue and 2″ pocket hole screws.
Attach the side aprons in the same manner.
Now the back apron. Keep using 2″ pocket hole screws and glue.
If you choose to go the 1×4 route, join all the 1x4s together as shown above with 1 1/4″ pocket holes screws. Then screw the top to the aprons and front legs.
Attach the seat to the chair back as shown above. I suggest using bolts, but screws would work too – especially pocket hole screws – but be warned, screws may loosen up over time. Bolts will too, but you can just tighten again.
So what happens when you build one as a proof of concept . . . and you fall in love and want three more?
But in the fast paced world of building and blogging daily that I live in (intended for a giggle at my expense, being that I am still wearing the same comfy sweats I swore I would change out of at 4:34PM, exactly 10 minutes before the Ram gets home) how can I possibly build three more?
Or should this lone beauty be destined for my somewhat modern office? As perhaps a guest chair for my most frequent visitor (who prefers a pink high chair) or as the coolest printer stand I could ever imagine?
What do you think? A perfect fit in the printer's spot? Or enlist the Ram's help to build 3 more?
Or in blue?
Now I have a confession. I made a great mistake of bookmarking PBSkids.org (pronounced peebee eskids dotorg in my household) a while back. Sometime while I was out in the garage building this chair, my daughter hopped on my computer and started playing peebee eskids dotorg and crashed all my windows. So you'll have to bear with me - there are a few modifications I would suggest to make your chair both easier to build and stronger.
Warning: As much as I know you are capable, chairs are so easy to mess up. Two major issues - chairs need to be stronger and chairs are easy to get "off" square. Don't build this chair (or any chair for the matter) as your first project.