Hello! I’m Ana, a mother and homemaker from Alaska.
Skeching
100’s of FREE plans!!
You can make ANYTHING!
stick
img
sticks
img

Corner Cupboard

December 27, 2010 |
posted by Ana White
PDF versionPDF version

This corner cupboard can turn an empty corner into a storage and display spot. Cleverly designed to minimize board waste and to be easy to build.

Special thanks to Tamara for sharing her photos with us.

Corner Cupboard

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Corner Cupboard
Dimensions: 
72" tall. Width and Depth can vary as built.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

2 – 1x12s, 6 feet long
1 – 1×8, 6 feet long
1 – 1×4, 6 feet long
1 sheet of beadboard, preferably 1/4″ to 3/8″ thick
3 – 1x3s, 8 feet long
1 – 1×2, 3 feet long
1 – 36″ long crown moulding or other moulding

Cut List

Cut List: 

1 – 1×8 @ 72″ (Back)
6 – 1×12 @ 30 1/2″, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square (see step 1)
2 – 1×3 @ 72″ (Front Side Trim)
2 – Beadboard @ 16 1/4″ x 72″ (Measure for exact fit)
2 – 1×4 @ 26 1/2″ (Top and Bottom Trim, measure for exact fit)
1 – 1×2 @ 26 1/2″ (Tabletop trim, measure for exact fit)
top moulding – measure to fit
Doors – see step 6.

Step 1

Corner Cupboard

Cut Shelves

This step would be really straight forward if widths of boards didn’t vary so much depending on where you live. So take your 1×8 pine boards and measure how wide they are. Can be anywhere from 7″ to 7 1/2″. Note this then start cutting your shelves by cutting one end of the 1×12 at 45 degrees. Then measure the width of the 1×8 (in the example above that is 7 1/2″) and a 45 degree cut PERPENDICULAR to the first cut. Then continue making cuts to make all your shelves. In this manner you can easily adjust the width of your back to the width of a 1×12 or 1×10. You will need to cut six shelves totally.

Step 2

Corner Cupboard

Back

Now mark the back as shown in the diagram above. All shelves need to be fixed. Predrill your holes or pocket holes and apply glue. Attach back to shelves with 2″ screws and glue.

Step 3

Corner Cupboard

Front Side Trim

Mark the front side trim 1/2″ in all the way down the length of the back side of the side trim. Then mark all shelf locations as indicated in the above diagram. Predrill holes. Consider the depth of your screws and the angled shelf cuts as you place your screws – 2″ screws on the inside and 1 1/4″ screws on the outer edge, 2 screws per shelf. Use glue. Don’t stress this one too much, the sides are going to get beadboard (super strong) over them. The main thing is to get these lined up just right.

Step 4

Corner Cupboard

Beadboard

Measure the width of the open spaces on the back sides, and cut your beadboard to fit. Shown above is the perfect dimensions for 1x12s that measure 11 1/2″ wide. Try to get a nice tight fit. Apply glue to the shelf edges that are exposed and use 1 1/4″ screws to attach the beadboard to the shelves. Keep the beadboard first and foremost flush to the back 1×8, as this is the seam that will be most visible. The front seams are hidden behind the front side trim.

Step 5

Corner Cupboard

Shelf Trim

If you have a Kreg Jig™, you will want to build your entire face frame first, then attach. But if you don’t, first attach your trim to the shelves with either 2″ finish nails and glue or 2″ screws and glue. Then predrill pilot holes carefully on the ends and use 3″ screws to attach sides to trim. Cut out bottom footer as desired.

Step 6

Corner Cupboard

Top Moulding

Measure the top and tack the crown o

Step 7

Corner Cupboard

Doors

The doors are the most difficult part because most of us don’t have routers or tablesaws. If you do have a router or table saw, you can build your doors inset as shown above. because of the shelf behind the doors, the doors must be no more than 3/4″ thick, so you will have to inset the panel in the frame of the door. There are other options.

Step 8

Corner Cupboard

You can build an overlay door. Simply build a frame out of 1x3s, either using a Kreg Jig™ or 3″ fine screws to build the frame. Then tack beadboard to the back, but make sure the beadboard would fit in the opening in the shelf.

Step 9

Corner Cupboard

And you would want to add the center post to remove any gaps between the doors.

Thank you Mamma_joy for not only requesting this plan, but actually believing that I might have the ability to come up with a simple way to build it.  So many of you have requested corner cabinets, and I've been listening.  But like Erin says in her project suggestion, how would we build this one without beveling the sides, requiring a table saw?  Definitely required some deep thinking, and I'm so proud to publish this plan AND also say, it's pretty simple, totally buildable, and you don't have to have a table saw at your disposal.

I tried to keep the dimensions close to Erin's suggestion for the plan

But it's a no brainer to modify the corner cupboard to be a little wider

Just use a 1x12 for the back instead of a 1x8 as the plan calls for.  For both plans, the shelves are made of 1x12s, so the shelves will only be approximately 11 1/2" deep.

So go measure your corner.  Do you have 21 1/2" of space?  Then the question is, do you have some beadboard?

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.

Brilliant!!!

Brilliant!!!

posted by Teri (not verified) | on Mon, 2010-12-27 22:53

This is awesome I think you

This is awesome I think you should make it bigger for a corner entertainment center that you can add side cabinets that corresponds like the Pottery Barn Printer Collection

posted by michelle minor (not verified) | on Mon, 2010-12-27 23:08

Looks exactly like the one I

Looks exactly like the one I had growing up. I ended up selling it a couple of years ago because it was a pain to move and the wood on one side of the back was broken and I didn't know how to fix it. I don't know that I'll make this, but thanks for the memories brought back just by seeing the piece. Have a great night!

posted by Lisa W (not verified) | on Mon, 2010-12-27 23:11

You're awesome! I had no

You're awesome! I had no doubt you would be able to do this...and now we all can, too! It looks so fun to build! Thank you for all that you do!!

P.S. I feel like a celebrity being mentioned in your post! <3

posted by mamma_joy (not verified) | on Mon, 2010-12-27 23:12

This is great. I agree with

This is great. I agree with Michelle, this would be great modified to be a corner entertainment center. I would definitely make that since I have been trying to figure one out for my home. Hmmm, will have to see if I can modify for the size of my flat screen tv. Thanks, as always for the great stuff.
I got tools and a gift card for lumber as gifts this year (that was all I asked for) so, along with my chop saw, my kreg regular and micro jigs and my drill, I will be all set to get building! The basement is a workshop just for me and I am creating a craft room from one of our bedrooms for my sewing and fabric crafts! You are a gift!

posted by Lynn (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 05:09

corner entertainment center

A few years back My Wife wanted one that Penny's sold,it was
$495:oo We got to looking around the catalog outlet stores and foud the exect same cabinet.The only thing wrong with it was one of the back panels was busted and was missing a foot on the front.

We got it for $85:00 and went to Lowes and got a sheet of 1/4" luan for the back that matched the other side and they had the same exect same foot.

So if You want to spend some time You might luck up and find a deal as We did.Not takeing anything away from Anna I love Her disigns and have built many of them.

posted by Leroy Barrentine (not verified) | on Sat, 2012-02-11 15:43

this looks AMAZING! the steps

this looks AMAZING! the steps are so easy to follow. i can't wait to convince the hubby that we need to build this! thanks Ana!

posted by Amy E. (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 06:41

I love it, Ana! That has me

I love it, Ana! That has me all excited. I think that would look great in the corner in my dining room. Hmmmm.
Hope you had a wonderful Christmas!
Beth.

posted by beth (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 07:47

I'm sorry, I know I should

I'm sorry, I know I should post this on community board but some how am not computer literate enough to do so. Is it safe to use pressure treated lumber for inside projects if it is painted/sealed? I have 4 tiny girls and have heard some about the chemicals in the treated wood being so bad for you. But I didn't know if it was painted if it made any difference? My husband has lots of scraps I would love to steal :) but I wasn't sure if that was ok? Sorry, I'm totally new. I've never built anything before so I don't know anything about wood. Thank you to anyone who is nice enough to answer my question!

posted by shelley (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 07:55

pressure treated (PT) wood

Shelley,  PLEASE don't use PT wood for any projects where kids are involved!  One tiny little sliver will give the worst infection (personal experience) and little kids are so much more susceptible to any kind of poison... Better safe than sorry, right?

posted by Deb W (not verified) | on Wed, 2011-03-30 21:30
clips
claydowling's picture

Pressure Treated

Pressure treated wood is a terrible choice for any furniture project. It's 100% guaranteed to warp, twist and crack. It's fine on a deck, where you're willing to accept that in return for not rotting. You don't want that in furniture in your house.

The toxicity issue is also worth considering. If the wood is still wet it will definitely stain your floors. Painting does seal the toxins in and makes them safe, unless your children develop a sudden need to eat the entire board (in which case the long-term toxicity effects are the least of your worries).

But the wood will not make a satisfactory material for indoor furniture. Please also see my standardized rant on purchasing lumber.

posted by claydowling | on Sat, 2012-02-11 18:30
clips

thank you

thank you so much for your insight and your input on this sight. i am new to all this and am learning as i go. i went to the big box place today and couldn't find the 4x4 posts for the twin farmhouse. all they had was that pressure treated stuff. i will check local mom and pop places and see what i can find. i enjoyed your rant on purchase lumber i had a good lol moment with the 5 o'clock shadow bit!! : ) i saw a modification for this by gluing 2x4's but i don't think it looks good. would i have to putty the seam or add a veneer to hide the jointed wood since it faces the front. what would you recommend? i am trying to make it with with no mortise rail fittings. thanks!

posted by msyogi | on Sat, 2012-02-11 22:30
clips
claydowling's picture

2x4 Glue Up

You can make a glue up look nice if you trim the rounded edges off. Unfortunately that requires either a table saw with a very good rip blade, which you probably don't have, or a good jack plane (which you probably also don't have, but costs a lot less and takes a lot less room).

posted by claydowling | on Sun, 2012-02-12 07:53

Add this one to my list!

Add this one to my list!

posted by Erika (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 07:56

Yay! Yay! and

Yay! Yay! and Yay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

posted by Tiffany (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 08:44

I wouldn't use pressure

I wouldn't use pressure treated (PT) for several reasons, the #1 being the chemicals they use.

Other reasons I wouldn't are:
* PT is several times heavier than untreated wood.
* PT is generally harder to cut with regular blades. I'm not saying it can't be done, but you might have a hard time if you don't have a sharp blade.
* PT is usually very wet feeling and needs a while (weeks) to dry, even outside.

I really just don't think its worth trying, but you may have better luck.

posted by Jack (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 09:46

Ana, I just fell in love with

Ana, I just fell in love with you again. I am hopeful that you will have plans for kitchen cabinets up before DH and I start building them ourselves. Of course all a kitchen cabinet is...is a bookshelf with doors.

posted by Sunny (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 10:00

LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE

LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE this!!! Thank you so much! :)

posted by Jennifer (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 10:17

It's low-quality wood, hard

It's low-quality wood, hard to cut, stinky, and doesn't paint or stain worth a darn.

Don't waste your time.

posted by Tsu Dho Nimh (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 10:45

Thanks so much for the info!

Thanks so much for the info! I'll get some new wood for my project! Appreciate the help!

posted by shelley (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 11:11

Thank so much for the help!

Thank so much for the help!

posted by shelley (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 11:12

This is so awesome! I have

This is so awesome! I have been wanting something similar for my dining room for a long time, and as always, you have something perfect for what I am wanting!

Ana, you are fabulous. Thank you so much! :)

posted by Jessica K. (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 12:28

I've been waiting for this

I've been waiting for this one! I think it's great and I will be starting it in the next week or so. Thank you!

posted by Tara (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 12:57

Oh Ana! This is just what I

Oh Ana! This is just what I was wishing for. I've got the perfect corner just waiting.

posted by CreativeCarol (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 13:01

Aren't are readers amazing?

Aren't are readers amazing?

posted by Ana White (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 13:51

I've always, always wanted a

I've always, always wanted a pretty corner cabinet! Thanks for the brilliant and so well laid out plans!

posted by Rebecca (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 15:29

I am with Michelle and

I am with Michelle and Lynn...I have been hoping for corner entertainment center plans, and I would love to see this plan modified.

You are wonderful!

posted by Kira (not verified) | on Tue, 2010-12-28 16:06

So, I looked at this and

So, I looked at this and thought "Wow, Ana, has done it again...Brilliance! But, I don't need this in any corner of my house, bummer. Then someone suggested building it for a TV and I realized this is exactly what I need to modify and tuck my TV away in the corner my bedroom.
Yay for Ana and Ana's awesome friends!

posted by Jami (not verified) | on Wed, 2010-12-29 00:47

Ana, I love this design!

Ana,

I love this design! Do you have plans for a regular shelf unit with doors on the bottom? I would love to have bookshelves in my living room where I could store things in the bottem (and then baby latch) so my daughter can't get to certain things. Would I need a special design or just add doors to one of your current shelves? Thanks! Keep up the good work- You're awesome!

posted by Erin (not verified) | on Sat, 2011-01-01 21:18

Oh, thank you, thank you,

Oh, thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! Ana, you rock!!!
Now all I need is a Kreg jig, supplies and time, and I've got this built :)

posted by Nan Tovar (not verified) | on Sun, 2011-01-02 09:45

With a small house that

With a small house that wasn't designed with storage of any kind in mind, I'm always looking for storage ideas. I *love* this. Can't wait for spring so we can set up our wood working tools in the garage!

posted by Alyssa (not verified) | on Wed, 2011-01-05 15:51

I love this cabinet and I

I love this cabinet and I will probably make it in the near future......I was wondering if there is any way to make a corner TV stand out of the bottom of this unit? if anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear them. I am going to study the plans a bit more and see if I can figure out what kind of cuts I would need for just the bottom portion of this unit.

posted by clarissa kisic (not verified) | on Fri, 2011-01-07 20:46

I want to make this wider for

I want to make this wider for a corner media center-just the bottom. Our present tv is 42"-but we might be getting a larger one in the future. How do I make the base wider?

posted by Sue Dally (not verified) | on Mon, 2011-01-10 10:06

Sue, the easiest method is to

Sue, the easiest method is to use a wider width board for the back "spine". But if you want to have no dead space behind the cupboard, you will need to cut your shelves from 3/4" plywood or MDF into pentagon or triangle shaped pieces and build in that method. Me personally? I'm okay with more dead space behind the cupboard than dealing with a jigsaw and large plywood pieces :)

posted by Ana White (not verified) | on Mon, 2011-01-10 12:31

That is exactly what I was

That is exactly what I was thinking- about 38"-40" across the front would be perfect. I have been wanting to build a corner entertainments center for quite some time.

posted by christina miller (not verified) | on Tue, 2011-01-18 08:44

Look what Tamara

Look what Tamara made!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs782.ash1/167244_943319947171_7034332_48899475_3302385_n.jpg

posted by anawhite_ (not verified) | on Mon, 2011-01-24 19:53

I want to make 2 of these but

I want to make 2 of these but I want to make them taller to look like built-ins. Like 8 feet tall. How would I do this and still make them structurally sound? Also, can plywood or mdf replace the beadboard backing? Or would adjustments need to be made to the measurements since beadboard is thin?

posted by Jen (not verified) | on Tue, 2011-03-08 12:57
clips
dan-k's picture

It can be done

It should be no problem to increase the height to 8 feet.  Just have to add 1-2 more shelves or space them out further.

If you use thicker material in place of the beadboard it may stick out past the sides of the 1x3's.  It's hard to say from the plans.  The simple answer is to offset the 1x3's more than the 1/2" listed in the directions to hide the edges.   This would change the lengths of the shelf trim pieces and the width of the center post between the doors. 

Another option is to use 1x4's which will provide even more coverage and might look better on a larger cupboard.  Using 1/2" plywood or mdf (heavy) would really stiffen things up. 

I would recommend finding the wall studs in the corners where you will be installing the cupboards and drive a few trim head screws through the back panels into the  wall for added stability.  You could drive them in just under a shelf and they would be hidden.

posted by dan-k | on Wed, 2011-03-30 22:21
clips

What if I don't want to use beadboard

Can anyone recommend a different material for the back?  I'm anxiously awaiting the fundage to tackle this project and have been mulling over what to use.  I'm thinking a good grade of plywood.  I want to stain the piece in the end, so something stainable is a must.

Thanks!
Chris

posted by Leffel | on Wed, 2011-03-30 21:16
clips
dan-k's picture

There are lots of things to use instead of beadboard

You could use Lauan plywood, unfinished paneling, hardwood veneered plywood.

posted by dan-k | on Wed, 2011-03-30 21:49

Corner media stand anyone?

Did anyone happen to take this plan and turn it into a media stand for a 42" tv or bigger? Basically I just need the bottom half of this unit but bigger...no idea where to start! lol

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Mon, 2011-04-25 14:11

Add a Functional Groove and a Consideration

My house is a hundred plus years old and came with two corner cabinets built into the dining room. The shelves have a feature that I feel adds to the funtionality of the shelves for displaying the "good" dishes. Each of the exposed shelves has a groove routed into the top of the shelf 1.25" from the back. This groove allows you to lean you "good" dishes upright at a slight angle.

One consideration when building these shelves is to decide if you are going to permenantly mount them to you corner. If you would like them to be movable, don't forget to incorporate noches around the bottom trim and install an offset support for the back of the unit so the entire shelf will sit over your baseboards.

You cabinet design is wonderful.

posted by Joe Makes Things (not verified) | on Tue, 2011-06-07 14:12
clips
claydowling's picture

Plate rail

A low raised rail works as well. My china cabinet has one, and I love it for displaying all of the dishes I inherited from my grandmother. I've seen this carried to its logical extreme around the outside of a room as well.

posted by claydowling | on Tue, 2011-06-07 14:53

corner cabinet

space-saving

posted by martha_aint_me | on Mon, 2011-06-13 11:41
clips

Is the last picture the 31

Is the last picture the 31 1/2 size or the larger 35 1/2?

posted by tinambear | on Sun, 2011-08-28 16:31

Screw placement?

I'm having trouble visualizing screw placement in attaching the shelves to the front side trim. Anyone who has built this that could give advice on what worked for you?

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Wed, 2011-11-30 15:27

Hinges

What hinges do you suggest for the doors?

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-02-03 14:25

Corner Cupboard

I love this and starting the project this weekend. I'm planning on building 2 corner units in my dining room and have a small snag. Both corners have basebord heat and I'm trying to figure out a way to cut away the bottom so the unit will fit snug in the corners. Any ideas?

posted by LenClark (not verified) | on Sat, 2012-02-11 10:57
clips
claydowling's picture

Legs

I have a similar problem with some bookshelves I'm building. I'm putting legs on to the level of the top of the heater, building a top that extends all the way to the wall, and will be fastened to the wall with a cleat.

posted by claydowling | on Sat, 2012-02-11 11:27

Excellent idea about the

Excellent idea about the legs, thanks Clay.

posted by LenClark (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-02-24 13:18

I am going to make it into a bird cage....I think :)

So I have been wanting to build this and place it in my dining room. I need the extra space to store the "good dishes". But then my son wanted a bird(parakeet) well one turned into 3.(I felt bad for the one for being by herself and got her some friends...)

At anyrate I am going to take out the 2 and 3rd shelves from the top.I think I am going to add rails for the support. Then on the shelf above the cabinet doors I was thinking that I would frame out the wire and build it into the cabinet that way. So that I could then be able to open the cabinet doors to clean the cage and have storage under the newspaper section.

For the front of the cabinet I thought I would hang the wire from the inside before the back is put on it.Of course I will have to add trim on the inside to cover the wire. Also I will have a section in the wire to open so we can feed/water them.

Thank you Ana so much for these plans!! I built the Farm-Table of my dreams from your plans!!! :) Bonnie

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-02-22 15:10
clips

I'm going to make two of these

I was just commissioned by someone in my neighborhood to make two opposing corner bookcases. I had my own plan in mind but think I will go with this plan. However, since the customer wants the units painted, I'm going to use cabinet grade plywood in place of the 1x8 pine and the beadboard, for added strength. I'll probably make the units taller and wider and will also probably bevel the back panel to accept the plywood for a nice snug fit. Anyway, I'm so glad I came across these plans. I'm new to this site and I LOVE IT!!

posted by FredD | on Sat, 2012-02-25 20:12

Confused on Steps 3 and 5

Hello, all. To Ana or anyone else having experience building this piece, I am confused on a couple of the steps. I already have the shelves, two front trim pieces and main back piece cut.

Step 3: Says place 2" screws on the inside and 1-1/4" screws on the outer edge, 2 screws per shelf. Wouldn't this be 4 screws per shelf or am I reading into this wrong? I've used some scrap to try this out with the 1/2" overlap and drilling 2 pocket holes into the angled edge of one of the scrap shelves. I used 1-1/4" screws and they actually just came through the front trim piece (there is no way 2” screws would work, the way I am doing this). Furthermore, I am concerned that the joint will not be that strong with the holes so close together and not having much to "bite" into in the angled shelf edge. Should pocket holes be used here to fasten the trim pieces to the shelves, or would finish nails be safer (no splitting)? I have considered using a pneumatic trim nailer with 2” brads, also. Thoughts?

Step 5: Says if you have a Kreg Jig (I do) to build the entire face frame first. Does this essentially take the place of step #3 for me, if I do in fact use a pocket hole system? If I went ahead and built the entire face frame first, what is the best way of attaching it to the rest of the assembly? (Goes back to my above question).

Overall, I am concerned with strength and stability. I intend to house glasses and mugs on the top shelves and I just want to make sure the unit is as rigid as possible. I’ve been mulling over these couple of steps, trying to come up with the best way to attach the side trim to the shelves. Any help (verbal or pictures or other) would be greatly appreciated to keep my project rolling along!

Ana, very cool design, I’m hoping I can do it justice and pull it off! Will post pics if and when I do!

Thanks,
Justin

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-03-18 20:50

Confused on Steps 3 and 5

Hello, all. To Ana or anyone else having experience building this piece, I am confused on a couple of the steps. I already have the shelves, two front trim pieces and main back piece cut.

Step 3: Says place 2" screws on the inside and 1-1/4" screws on the outer edge, 2 screws per shelf. Wouldn't this be 4 screws per shelf or am I reading into this wrong? I've used some scrap to try this out with the 1/2" overlap and drilling 2 pocket holes into the angled edge of one of the scrap shelves. I used 1-1/4" screws and they actually just came through the front trim piece (there is no way 2” screws would work, the way I am doing this). Furthermore, I am concerned that the joint will not be that strong with the holes so close together and not having much to "bite" into in the angled shelf edge. Should pocket holes be used here to fasten the trim pieces to the shelves, or would finish nails be safer (no splitting)? I have considered using a pneumatic trim nailer with 2” brads, also. Thoughts?

Step 5: Says if you have a Kreg Jig (I do) to build the entire face frame first. Does this essentially take the place of step #3 for me, if I do in fact use a pocket hole system? If I went ahead and built the entire face frame first, what is the best way of attaching it to the rest of the assembly? (Goes back to my above question).

Overall, I am concerned with strength and stability. I intend to house glasses and mugs on the top shelves and I just want to make sure the unit is as rigid as possible. I’ve been mulling over these couple of steps, trying to come up with the best way to attach the side trim to the shelves. Any help (verbal or pictures or other) would be greatly appreciated to keep my project rolling along!

Ana, very cool design, I’m hoping I can do it justice and pull it off! Will post pics if and when I do!

Thanks,
Justin

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-03-18 20:56

Great first project

I just finished making this cupboard and it looks awesome.
It took me three nights in a dark garage and it's my first succesfull woodwork project.
Thanks for the great instructions and pictures.

I'll post pictures as soon as I completed it with a fresh paint.

Thanks again for the instructions, it was a great project to work on.

Cheers,

Bas

posted by Bas (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-09-28 18:44

How to downsize it?

Love, Love, Love this! I always wanted a cupboard like this but didn't want to spend $300-$500 for it! My question is how do I downsize it...at least the width? to 25 1/2 in width instead of 35 1/2 in?

posted by Hello Sunshine! (not verified) | on Sat, 2012-11-10 11:04

Sort of wobbly?

We got ours built and have had it a few months. My issue now: it's a little wobbly. Anyway to steady it up?

posted by Alphabet Es | on Mon, 2012-11-12 17:42

Brag Posts

What happened to all of the brag posts? I noticed that all of mine no longer are linked to their originating projects. I know this project had several brags.

Jake

posted by Jake | on Tue, 2013-01-08 21:51
clips
michaelje's picture

Love, Love, Love this! I

Love, Love, Love this! I always wanted a cupboard like this but didn't want to spend $300-$500 for it! My question is how do I downsize it...at least the width? to 25 1/2 in width instead of 35 1/2 in? hermes outlet , babul-ilm

posted by michaelje | on Sat, 2013-04-13 04:59

Think, Do the Math, Keep it Square

Michael I am always changing the dimensions of projects to fit my particular needs. I find that just studying the plans and the process is a big help. For example in this case the first step is to cut the back piece and attach the shelves. The front of the shelves are almost the entire width of the cupboard's front so make them 25". You can play with the width of the back piece and the size of the shelves on paper. I like to use the notebook paper that has all the little squares (4 to an inch) so I can draw somewhat to scale. When I do that it gives me a perspective of how the final piece will look. When you shorten the width by 30% your back piece will also have to be shortened otherwise you will have built a funny looking box. So think, draw, do the math and once you start installing the shelves take great care to keep them square. This project requires you to pay a lot of attention to squareness in all three dimensions. I posted my experience on Ana White's site as well as The Design Confidential if you are interested. Give it a go. By the way use dowels to trim out intersections and have a lot of good wood filler on hand.

Jake

posted by Jake | on Sat, 2013-04-13 07:35

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.

Recent comments

Social

Let's Connect

Tweets

  •  

User login

Not Much >>

What's going on up here in Alaska.

Momplex Cam >>

Momplex Cam >>

We are DIYing our moms a Duplex in Alaska! Check out our progress so far as we owner build a home, step by step. Read the Momplex blog here.

Special Thanks

The free content provicded by this website is made possible by the following current sponsors.  Thank you!


   

Momplex Vanilla Kitchen Plans and How-Tos


Check out how we DIYed a full kitchen here!

Momplex
Momplex
Momplex
Project Plan
Momplex
Project Plan
Project Plan
Momplex
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Momplex
Momplex
Project Plan
Project Plan
Momplex
Project Plan
Project Plan
Momplex
Momplex
Momplex
Momplex
Project Plan
Momplex
Video
Momplex
Momplex
Momplex
Project Plan
Momplex
Momplex
Project Plan
Momplex
Momplex
Project Plan

Handmade Holiday Gift Plan Tutorials

Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan
Project Plan