To match our Farmhouse Table. This farmhouse bench is easy to build and is rustic and substantial.
One of the early plans that I posted was my Farmhouse Table. I've since down sized to the Round X Base Table (tiny dining space) but the Farmhouse Table still gets more use in my home than any other work surface, with the exception of my desk. It's now my beloved workbench that I build furniture on on a pretty much daily basis. I cannot wait to show you my next project . . . :)
And even after all this time, I'm still thrilled with the design. While I can't think of a better and sturdier spot to build furniture, it's also stunningly beautiful in it's simplicity. We love Farmhouse Tables because they are warm and rustic, and require hearty meals and heartfelt conversations.
There have been so many beautiful Farmhouse Tables built, but today, I am featuring Jackie's and Kristen's because of their matching benches. Today's plan is for the Farmhouse Bench to match our tables. You can read more about Jackie's gorgeous dining room with Farmhouse Table and Bench here. Lots more eye candy, you must check it out.
And from Kristen. From my blogging experience, I now walk around in awe, humbled by the amazingness of people. There are so many talented people out there, and I am just so grateful to be inspired by them. By you.
4 – 2x4s, stud length of 8 foot length
2 – 1x4s, 8 foot length
1 – 1×2, 8 foot length
2 1/2″ screws
The Farmhouse Bench is designed to work with this Farmhouse Table, but there is no reason you could not modify the dimensions or use it as a coffee table or outdoor bench. If you plan to build the Farmhouse Table, starting with the bench will give you a chance to test out your skills on a smaller version.
For those of you who have a pocket hole system, you can use the pocket holes to build your bench seat separate. You can also fasten your aprons directly to the legs without spacers.
4 – 2x4s @ 16 1/2″ (Legs)
2 – 1×4 @ 2 1/4″ (Spacers)
2 – 1×4 @ 6″ (End Aprons)
2 – 2×4 @ 12″ (Stretchers)
2 – 1×4 @ 61″ (Side Aprons)
2 – 1×4 @ 9 1/2″ (Inner Aprons)
5 – 1×2 @ 9 1/2″ (Supports)
4 – 2×4 @ 65″ (Bench Seat Boards)
2 – 1×4 @ 14″ (Breadboard Ends)
The notches and stretchers on the legs is optional. Notch out your legs (for full instructions see the Farmhouse Table post) and laminate your legs together in pairs of 2 with glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Then take note of the placement of the spacers and attach to the insides of the legs. This will differ depending on the leg. Attach with 2″ screws and glue.
Attach end aprons to the spacers as shown above. Use glue and 2″ screws.
The stretcher gets attached in the same method. Screws and glue.
Build the bench frame, keeping the 1×2 supports flush to the top. Easy method is to flip it all over and keep the supports flush to the bottom :)
Screw bench frame to legs with glue and 2 1/2″ screws.
Find the center of the supports and begin attaching seat boards from the underside. Work with the boards to minimize gaps as you go. Attach all seat boards. If you have a pocket hole system, you would build your bench seat separate, and then attach.
If you have a pocket hole system, you would attach the breadboard ends directly to the seat boards in step 6. Otherwise, attach to leg bases.
If you are staining, be very careful to not let glue dry on the project, as these areas will not take stain. Fill holes with wood filler, sand and paint or stain as desired.