Modified Farmhouse Bed

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About This Project

This was our first project.  My husband and I took the Farmhouse bed plans and modified them to look more like the Hudson Bed from Pottery Barn.  This is a King size bed with removable side rails and under bed supports so that it can easily be collapsed for moving.

poplar and birch
Required Skill Level: 
Estimated Time Investment: 
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used: 
I had to dye the wood using a mahogany dye to unify the woods and then applied three coats of mahogany and english chestnut stains mixed together and then mixed with lacquer and lacquer thinner. The drying in between was long. Next time I would paint poplar or use a different wood.
Estimated Cost: 


Did you ever figure out how they made the siderails removable? I am about to make this bed but would much rather make this adjustment to the plans

We fastened all of the slats with screws instead of nailing them.  Then, we attached all of the adjoining interior rails with L-brackets.  Lastly, we attached the vertical surface of the side piece to the back inner edge of the footboard and headboard posts.  (The large, middle piece of the footboard and headboard was attached to the middle of the posts, not the back edge.) You can also see in the last picture a block under the bed.  This supports the slats in the middle because the bed is a King size and we have little kids.  No matter how many times you say not to jump on the bed...better safe than sorry.  We made the blocks out of leftover wood.  You cannot see them unless you are sitting down on my floor and even then, it is too dark. I hope that helps.

If this posted somewhere please forgive as I didnt see it. You said it cost $600 wondering if that was the price of the wood. It just seem alittle higher than I would have thought, I am going to make one for my granddaughter in a queen so I am trying to get an idea on different wood. Pine isnt to high but I like alder. Just wanted to know. Its beautiful thank you for all your info. Its help to.

We just used Ana's plans.  The head and footboards are made using birch plywood to Ana's specifications. The trim detail is made of 1x2 and 1x3 pieces with cove molding around the edges.  The top pieces were made with special molding (this is why it is more expensive) that we ordered to come close to the PB bed.  Then topped with a 1x6.  Honestly, we went to PB and tried to do the best imitation we could.  Sides are 1x12s with same detail as head and footboard. We bought our wood at the orange store and after they cut the plywood, we took it to the lumber section and laid it all out on the floor to see how it would look before buying.  The leg detail we cut on a friend's table saw. Hope that helps. 

 Simply stunning! You have done an amazing job and having JUST finished the farmhouse bed (we finished and put it in our room tonight) I now want to make it again and follow your modifications! :) Fabulous job!!!

I am new to the site.  Honestly, I have never built hubby does all that stuff.  I just like finding the plans for him!  Haha...

Anyway, I am confused as to why your version would be $600 and Ana's version is marked at $100-$150.  I fell in love with Ana's plans as is, but is the estimated cost really low balled, or does your version have a ton more extras I'm not trained to see?  Wait...I read one of your comments and I think I see why it's more expensive now.  Gotcha! 

Dan is correct the quality wood they used is more expensive.  BTW: Ana's original plans are for ONLY a headboard.  I too built this King size bed with side rails and a footboard.  My total build materials cost (still have to stain and finish) was about $215.   I used Whitewood Pine(some knots) from Lowes.  This included 2 2x10s for the side rails.  I used 3 1x4s as support slats for the mattress and boxspring. Those 1x4s are screwed to a 1x2 that is screwed to the inside of the siderail. Then I measured from the bottom of the 1x4 to the floor to cut 3 2x4 supports for each slat and screwed secure, evenly spread out, for slat.  Believe it or not, I secured the siderails using heavy duty door hinges(4 anchor screws each) to attach them to the head and foot board.

Look at LizH's pix closely... you pay more for that clear wood and no knot holes.  Then look at ana's pix where pinewood with some knots is used and judge for yourself.

Email with any other questions if you need to.


This bed really did cost more for all of the reasons listed above.  We knew it would be more expensive but we really wanted that high-end look and knew that we needed to spend more on the wood to get it. Some other reasons why ours was so expensive are:  wood is more expensive in my area than in ana's, our finishing process involved many varied products in order to get the right look and I have a lot of those products left over, and the molding on the head and foot boards is a bit expensive. It was not stock molding.  Also...mmm...I measured once and cut and had to reorder.  So that cost is in there too.  Hope that helps clear things up.  

You might have just saved us a ton of husband has been building for about a year now...can't wait to show him this and your awesome modifications...bravo!!

Thank you so much for posting the pictures and changes you made. I have made plans off your info, however I have been searching for a similar molding that you special ordered and used on the top pieces. After going to a specialty wood working store and looking through product books, I am having a hard time matching it. Can you tell me the name of the molding you used? Or maybe dimensions of the molding? Thank you so much! Your bed is beautiful. I hope mine turns out half as great. Also did you make the side table bookshelf I see next to your bed in one of the pictures? If so, would you mind posting plans? even just a response with supply list and their measurements? Again thank you so much!

I see that you tapered the 4x4s which give the bed a more custom feel- but I what I don't see is lots of screw holes. So how did you attach the 4x4s to the sides of the footboard (and headboard). Ana's instructions call for countersinking a large screw and filling the hole. Thanks! Beautiful work!

I have come back several times just to look. I would love a bed like this.

I can't find the paperwork on the moulding, so sorry. It is called cove moulding and it is 3" in height. We purchased the bookcase before we made the bed but would make it next time. We followed Ana's instructions for countersinking the large screws but bought round wood plugs (available at the big box stores) instead of filling the holes with wood putty since I knew that I wanted to stain it. If you can look at the Hudson bed in the store you can see that the top piece on the head and foot board looks like one piece. In order to achieve that look we put the moulding on the top and put a piece of wood on the back of it and cut little triangle pieces for each end to fill it in and then topped it with the board which a friend routed on three sides. That way when you are tucking in the duvet cover it doesn't get hung up on the back. I'm so glad that you all like our bed.

Can you share how high your foot board is from the ground, the height of the foot board and how high your mattress is off the ground? I'm having some trouble, and somehow ended up with the side board only being able to be 8 inches width or else the mattress would sit too deep. Thank you!

PlumBlossom-The top of the foot board is 25". The foot board is 6" from the ground. The mattress is 10" off the ground. I hope that helps. Good luck. Please post pictures when you are done, I would love to see it!


I can't really tell from the pics what the specific 1x2 vs. 1x3 layout of your trim is. Would you mind sharing with the rest of us the specific layout?


WOW...iv been looking around in stores what type of bed frame i want but the ones i loved were out of my price range and i just stumbled across this website.I got a buddy whos a carpenter and would give him the plans to build this frame..if i knew where to print them off of.Im getting married in fall and this...this is the frame i want!! Also the girlfriend wants to go with walnut wood.Any thoughts what you think of using walnut compared to..say oak? Could you post a link where i can print out the plans for this frame? Thanx!

I just used Ana's plans for the King farmhouse bed. Then I went to Pottery Barn and copied all of the details that I could. Then I went to Ethan Allen and checked their King beds out to see what kind of support a King size needed. I'm so sorry but I don't have different plans than Ana's and I really don't know how to make plans either. As far as Oak versus Walnut is really a question of preference. Walnut is a harder wood and stains quite dark and may change a bit over time depending on the type. I really hope that helps. Good luck with the build!

Yes, it is. We added a center rail perpendicular to the head and foot boards and then put a few square wood feet (leftover 4x4s) under the center rail every so often (ours has 3). Then we attached slats every few inches securing them to the center rail and sides with screws. You can't see the feet unless you are crawling under the bed but it gave the bed great support.

Yes, it is. We added a center rail perpendicular to the head and foot boards and then put a few square wood feet (leftover 4x4s) under the center rail every so often (ours has 3). Then we attached slats every few inches securing them to the center rail and sides with screws. You can't see the feet unless you are crawling under the bed but it gave the bed great support.

Yes, it is. We added a center rail perpendicular to the head and foot boards and then put a few square wood feet (leftover 4x4s) under the center rail every so often (ours has 3). Then we attached slats every few inches securing them to the center rail and sides with screws. You can't see the feet unless you are crawling under the bed but it gave the bed great support.

I love this bed. I am not sure how to dye the wood before you stain it. This bed is beautiful I have been back many times to look at it. I cannot build on now but hope to later.

When you dye wood, you apply pigment and a carrier, without any finish component. Similar but not identical results can be achieved by applying a top-coating stain, as I have described in Making Your Own Stain.

You can get a lot more information about staining from Finishing 101. I'm not a finishing guru, but fortunately Bob Flexner, the author of the book, is a guru.

I know I'm a little late... I've been looking at this bed FOREVER trying to figure out how to replicate it. This is the EXACT look I'm going for so I'm glad I found something to reference.

I noticed on the farmhouse plans, a lot of people complained about the dimensions of the frame and that it wouldn't fit a standard king size bed. What are the dimensions of yours? Looks like your mattress fits perfectly. Also, what kind of boards did you use for the panels? Was it plywood?

Was wonder if you made it so you could easily disassemble your bed if you needed to? I am in the military and would need to take it apart every 4-5 years. Any suggestions?