Rory's House

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Keywords: 
wood dog kennel, discount wood dog kennel, cheap wood dog kennel, pet kennel end table, end table pet kennel

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About This Project

Pine, MDF top

In need of a replacement for my hideous (but large!) wire kennel, I was ecstatic when Ana posted plans for an end table kennel, just like the fancy ones in Sky Mall magazines! Once I got out of my first trimester of pregnancy, I enlisted a friend to help me out with the build. I spent a little too much on lumber (I accidentally purchased the good whitewood, as opposed to furring strips) but I'm chalking that up to pregnancy brain. After a million Kreg Jig holes, the assembly was maybe an hour or less to put all four sides together. We decided to paint the interior prior to assembly, and that was a good choice! I put the sides together with L-brackets, and honestly did a pretty poor job of it. But the main reason was to easily disassemble it should it need to be moved at some point. I splurged on the hinges and gate closure, and love love LOVE the finished product! These were great, well-laid out plans!

Required Skill Level: 
Intermediate
Estimated Time Investment: 
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used: 
I sanded it with 100, then 150. I gave the MDF edges a quick coat of DAP to smooth things out, then sanded with 220. It's painted with 4 coats of semigloss white.
Estimated Cost: 
70

Comments

Where are the instructions? Both links no longer work :(

So I'm new to this wood working and I bought the required supplies including the Kreg jig and for some odd reason when I screw down the side rails into the end pieces I'm breaking through the wood. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to not do that?!

Hi Britt,

Is the point of the screw breaking through the front part (face) of the wood?

These are a couple of things that I check for when this happens:

The setting of the Depth Collar Gauge that's attached to the drill bit: That's usually what causes it for me - sometimes it slips back a little from use and needs to be adjusted. Bringing it forward (toward the point of the drill bit) just a tiny bit can correct it - test depth on a scrap to make sure.

Thickness of the lumber - if you have your pocket hole set for 1x lumber it assumes a 3/4" thickness. If the wood turns out to be a tiny bit thinner, it will make the screw break through. Moving the depth collar forward as described above will help this. I've noticed this with some plywoods, and also on pre-primed boards - sometimes these end up just a tiny bit thinner. I have to adjust slightly for these. The shallower pocket hole usually does the trick on a test piece.

If all else fails and I get really frustrated, using the next size smaller screw may just do the trick (make sure to use clamps and glue). :)

Here's a link to a Kreg Jig forum with tips for beginners. Lots of great info from the Kreg community:

http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/tips-for-beginners

Happy building!

Joanne