This was my second project and was a little easier than the outdoor bench, since they were all straight cuts. The most time consuming process is the staining.
What color is that stain? It looks great.
I used Minwax Polyshades in Mission Oak. I use thhe foam bruzhes to apply and do 3 coats to give it a good dark color. Thanks for looking!
Jeff McClure www.atouchofarkansas.com
can i make this out of oak?
Kris, you could use any type of wood that you want, that won't matter on the build.
Oak is lovely, and it's almost exclusively what I have for my wooden furniture in my house. My dad has big stacks of it drying from three large trees that came down in his yard.
If you buy your lumber at a home improvement store though, you're going to pay a ridiculous price for the oak. It still won't be cheap from a regular lumber dealer, but less likely to require a second mortgage.
This video series actually has some really good stuff about buying and surfacing lumber: http://www.startwoodworking.com/getting-started
hello! you did a great job on this table! i am attempting it as my first DIY project. quick question--on ana's designs, she posted the prices, but I got charged a lot more at lowe's..any idea why? also- lowe's is the local hardware store here and they didn't have any 4x4's that were untreated, so i had to get cedar at another store. i already had pine in everything else..will this look weird when i start to stain? where can i find untreated 4x4's???
Hi there, thanks for looking at my table and good luck on your first build! Pretty easy project to start with.
Yes, the prices on Ana's site are not accurate a lot of times, due to location and when plan was posted, so don't get too hung up on that.
I have the same problem with the treated 4x4's, we have a local lumber place where I can get them now, but I used treated on this table and the others I have built. Do a Google search for lumber in your city and you more than likely have a small lumber place that will have them.
Won't matter when you start to stain, if for some reason you notice a difference in color, you can always add another coat of stain to the legs or the table, depending if one is lighter than the other.
If you need anything else, just let me know!
Ok thanks. Lowes told me that I couldn't use treated wood for something in my home, so we didn't go with that.
The other lumber store, only had cedar in 4x4. They said they could use a different type of wood and glue two 2x4s together, and said I wouldn't be able to tell a difference. Haven't decided yet what we are going to do. Any insight on if they glue it together?
I have been told unless your dog or child is going to be chewing on the treated wood, then it would be fine?? I used it for mine obviously and for my sister's, and she has a newborn, and haven't noticed any issues.
Once you stain it and clear coat it, it is covered anyway.
On the gluing together, personally I would not go that direction, unless you are going to fill in the seam with wood glue and sand it down, but if you don't, then it is going to look like 2 2x4's glued together.
The cedar would probably work fine, you are just going to have to play with the stain a little to see if it stains darker or lighter than the other wood.
Not just for the toxins issue, but because the wood is very wet, and it's going to crack and warp over the next year or two.
Laminating two boards is a viable option, but only if you are able to plane the faces to be joined flat. It can be done with hand planes, but a friend with a powered jointer would be better. As mentioned, you'd need to be able to trim the edges to hide the round edges of the dimensional lumber, either with a plane or a table saw.
Best bet is to fine a source of untreated 4x4s.
I have not had any issues with my treated 4x4's cracking or warping, but you do need to cut them pretty soon after buying them. If you buy some and leave them out in the garage, they will dry out and crack, but I just buy mine and do my cuts and have not had 1 problem with them.
Did you use a seal after you were done staining it?
Yes, I just used the spray paint sealer-Minwax poly clear satin finish
Thanks so much! Im sanding and staining later this week!!
Great job on your table. My husband and I are going to build a coffee table for our new DIL who wants a table made from reclaimed lumber. I have 4 x 4's sitting in the garage for the past 10 + years......no cracks and they should be plenty dry by now.....Don't know if they were treated or untreated....Would it even be an issue after so many years?
BTW...we are using a laminated thick pine piece from Loew's for the top. We will distress it to make it look "used" and reclaimed. She'll be happy with the fact that the different woods will result in different stain colors.
Sue in California.
Sue, thanks for taking the time to look. You should be fine on the 4x4's if they haven't cracked and are still in good condition. Good luck and look forward to seeing your finished product!
I've used both for my tables & benches (I've made over 20). And, in terms of them twisting and cracking, usually it's just surface stuff and adds to the character of the table. When they are PT (Pressure Treated) it's a very small amount on the surface..usually the moisture you find in the wood itself is from it being freshly milled, so leave the wood out in the sun a few days and just sand it off. I've been told they've improved their PT chems and they are less toxic than they were when they first hit the market (otherwise they wouldn't be approved for building). Either way you can use both PT or Untreated (as I have) and if you're really determined to NOT use PT, you can easily tack 2 2x4 together with glue and screws (use that side for the inside of the leg). Good luck to all my fellow builders.
Hi the finishing on your table looks great. I am looking into using Minwax stain as well but they don't seem to have the "Mission Oak" color. I am a new DIY and maybe I am missing something? Is this a type of finish rather than a color option? Any help into the right direction is appreciated. Thank you.
Is a stain color. It's a medium brown shade. It's only available in Minwax's Polyshades line. That means that the stain is combined with a polyurethane finish. The entire color palette for Minwax products can be seen here: http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains-color-guide/
The polyshades products are decent, but I found a problem with brush marks. What I've learned since is that you can cut it 1:1 or even 1:2 with mineral spirits, and it will flow better so that the brush strokes settle out. I like old pickle jars to do the mixing, but nearly anything will work. You'll need to add additional coats to provide more protection (and color).
If you want a really nice finish, give it a single pass with 220 grit sandpaper between coats (single, more will damage things). You have to make sure it's really dry when you use the sandpaper, which should produce a fine white powder instead of little clumps.
For tables I also like to put a layer of paste wax on the top. It makes a smoother finish and provides some additional protection. A wax layer only lasts a few months, but it's easy to reapply if you want to maintain it.
I have never really made much out of wood before. But wanted to make my own coffee table and I love this. Where do I get instructions on how to make this?
The plans are on Ana's site, just do a search for the Tryde Coffee Table and it should pull up.
Thanks for looking!
Can you please tell me how you got the worn (wavy) look on the planks on the top of the table? Is that just regular white pine?
I used regular 2x4's & 4x4's for the wood, to get the worn look I beat it with a chain. I had a pretty good piece and size chain sitting around the garage and I recommend wearing some thick gloves or 2 pair and just beat it until you get the desired look. After you beat it, then sand it and you will get the worn look you are looking for.
There's a picture of the chain in this post:
Thanks for looking,
I recently build a coffee table for a friend and wanted a bit of rustification as well. I took a different approach that gave me results I was very happy with. You can look at the two and see which suites you taste and your abilities more.
I was wondering if anyone else had problems finding 2 3/4" screws? Every store I went to went from 2.5" to 3" screws.
2 3/4" screws would be a particularly uncommon size. The 2 1/2" screws would be fine. Honestly, for a lot of this you can made do with a 1 1/2" screw or a 2" screw.
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