5 - 1x3 Boards, 8 feet long
5 - 2x2, 8 feet long
2 1/2" screws or 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
7 - 2x2 @ 24 1/2" (Ends/Supports)
3 - 2x2 @ 44 3/4" (Sides/Stretcher)
4 - 2x2 @ 29 1/4" (Legs)
10 - 1x3 @ 47 3/4" (Decking)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Begin by building your tabletop frame as shown above. Mark the placement of all joints and either use the Kreg Jig to drill pocket holes or a countersink bit to drill holes from the outside. Attach with 2 1/2" screws and wood glue.
Now the legs . . . build two of these in the same manner as the tabletop. If you are using the Kreg Jig, remember to keep your pocket holes to the bottom, as water could pool in exposed pocket holes, and potentially destroy your table.
A simple, inexpensive outdoor table with modern styling that you can build in an afternoon. Seats four and features a slatted top and bottom stretcher.
Now simply attach the tabletop frame to the legs. I just turned the whole thing upside down and got my drill out :) Use glue and 2 1/2" screws.
The stretcher really helps to keep the base square, and to keep the legs stable. Center the stretcher on the end boards and attach with screws and glue. Check out the dimensions diagram for center measurements - it's 12 7/8" from the outsides.
One thing to consider as you begin the decking, especially for outdoor tables, is in what direction will your boards most likely cup over time. Inspect the end of your board, as each board will have a bark side.