Master Closet System
Master Closet System
An entire closet system, for under $250 dollars.
3/4" plywood or MDF cut into 15 3/4" wide strips, 8 feet long (referred to as 1x16 boards)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Because this plan should be customized to fit your space, only cut lists for the tower is given. Drawer and cubby plans will fit in this tower plan.
Build your tower boxes as shown above. We used 2" finish nails and glue - but the Kreg Jig™ or 2" screws countersunk would work fine too. The main thing is (if you are using drawers or are building a large closet) that the towers need to be very square. You can make the top shelves adjustable with shelf pins, but it is important that the middle shelf be fixed, as something needs to keep the tower square in the center.
Once you have your tower(s) built, use rod pocket holders (1 3/8" diameter openings) with wood dowels (1 1/4" diameter) cut to length. We choose not to paint the dowels, as the wear of hangers sliding along the dowels would surely remove the finish. Make sure to leave enough room for your clothing to hang smoothly - especially if you add shelves in the next step.
The middle shelf is really not necessary, but the top and bottom shelves are - as we will be adding a footer in the next step and there is a TON of valueable storage space on the top :) Cut these to length. We used the Kreg Jig™ to fasten these shelves in place, and also added 2x2s as supports (good ole warped plywood really needed the extra bracing). Again, make sure that you are leaving enough room for your clothes to hang.
The main reason we choose to add a footer was to elevate the closet above the baseboard. Also, you can inset the footer slightly for a toekick. We also liked the elevated height because that little bit of height separates the closet from the floor (and the majority of dust and dirt).