Single Lounger for the Simple Modern Outdoor Collection

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Single Lounger for the Simple Modern Outdoor Collection

Single lounger for the Simple Modern Outdoor Collection. Features simple prop-up back with adjustable positions.

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

Special thanks to Wiscousonian for sharing photos.

I'm so happy to revisit a favorite collection - The Simple Modern Outdoor Collection of plans with this single lounger.  Hooray for summer!
Shopping List: 

9 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - set of hinges less than 1 1/2" wide
1 - set of 3" hinges

1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above.
Cut List: 

2 - 1x4 @ 74 1/2" (Frame Sides)
5 - 1x4 @ 19" (Frame Joists)
5 - 1x4 @ 51" (Deck Boards)
2 - 1x4 @ 76" (Deck Boards - Sides)
4 - 1x4 @ 11 1/4" (Legs)
2 - 1x2 @ 23 1/2" (Cleats)
5 - 1x4 @ 25" (Deck Boards - Back - Cut from main deck boards to match patterns)
3 - 2x2 @ 17 1/2" (Back Supports)
2 - 2x2 @ 9 1/4" (Prop Up Supports)
1 - 1x2 @ 18 3/4" (Prop Up Base)
1x2 Scraps for the Stops

Step 1: 

To build this lounger, you can either use the Kreg Jig (pocket hole recommendations shown above) or tradditional screws and nails. If you do use the Kreg Jig, it is recommended that you drill all pocket holes prior to building, and that you set your Kreg Jig for 3/4" stock and use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

What I like to do is inspect every single cut board as compared to the diagram above, and mark all pocket hole locations, and then predrill the pocket holes. 
Step 2 Instructions: 

Build the frame as shown above, using either 2" screws countersunk or the Kreg Jig. Make sure that the frame is very square.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach the decking boards as shown above. Use either the Kreg Jig or 2" finish nails and glue, nailing into the frame joists. Notice that the decking does not cover the sides of the frame. You can click on any diagram for a larger view.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now the decking. Nail or Kreg Jig it to the frame as shown above.

Step 5 Instructions: 

And add the legs. The legs should be attached to both the frame and the side decking.

Step 6 Instructions: 

The cleats should sit flush to the bottom of the frame as shown above. Use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to secure.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Build the back as shown above. Use 2" screws to screw through the 2x2s into the backs of the decking to hide holes. It is a good idea to make sure the back properly fits inside the lounger before using glue or attaching all screws.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Attach the back with the 3" hinges as shown above. Make sure that the back properly fits inside the opening and fully closes.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Build the prop up as shown above, and attach to the back with the 1 1/2" hinges. Test to make sure the back still fully closes.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Now take some of the 1x2 scraps and create stops as shown above to hold the prop up in place. You can space these at any desired location.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

Not sure about wheels, it might change how sturdy these are. The legs help ground the chair so that it doesn't flex much. With wheels id be afraid of the legs taking a lot of horizontal stress because the wheels will want to fold back, whereas with legs only they cant move so the weight is forced down...make any sense? Also they are not that heavy that they are not movable if you're following the sunny areas around your yard throughout the day.

What type of wood did you use on this Single Lounger for the Simple Modern Outdoor Collection? I love the lounger and will build this in the next couple of weeks.

I really want to build on soon, I have been saving up some cedar for one of these. The photos are great and it is very helpful to see where the holes are put. Thanks again great photos. Love your pool too!

Wheels could be mounted on simple struts that would extend out the back of the legs, so they're off the ground when it's in the 'resting' position, but when you lift the opposite end the angle would put the wheels in contact with the ground. Just a thought.

rather than a strut at the end you could place the wheel axel towards the back of the leg for the same affect.

I went to work on this lounger today. I altered a couple of things on the plan.

1). I rounded edges everywhere someone might grab the lounger as well as between the borders. I know part of the charm is the flatness but I was worried someone might cut themselves on the edges (yep, they were that sharp). I used a quarter bit rounder on my router table to do this.

2). I couldn't figure out where to put the Kreg jig digs on the joists, so I simply did 30 holes across the joist and, when I laid the planks, used some but not all of them. I spaced the digs using the B and C holes in the jig, used the long screw head in B, drilled C, moved over until I'd done all 30. It was approximately 45 mins per joist. NOT fun.

3). When I was cutting down the 2x4 to 1 1/8, I cut 1/4" off each deck plank. Then I cut those to 3/4" and used them as spacers between the planks.

4). I painted a 'Sea Mist' stain on the boards and frame before assembling. Just a first coat. I'll give another one once its fully assembled.

So there I am. The body is put together, the 5 body planks are on. Later, will put on the sides and assemble the top.

Almost done with the lounger...

A couple of questions:

The back is 25". If the supports are 2x2, separating them by 3.25, 5.25, 12 plus 2 plus 2 plus 2 = 26.5, not 25. Going to leave the bottom one off until I see how its fitting.

Also, because I cut the back support to size (1", I'm going to have to add back to its thickness. Anyone else have this problem?

Will have a brag blog along presently. For the next person building, consider the following:

The measurements on the back are not precise and following them will lead to trouble. They can work, but I was not able to follow the measurements and have the top close well. Instead, I opted for it to sit half an inch above the rest of the lounger.

Not happy about the hinge mechanism for the top, may have to look for more of a specialty item for that.

All in all, this project was much more challenging than I thought it would be. But it does look great.

Why make the frame width little small (19")? Which make the deck board side sitting only on the frame very little. Can we just increase this to 23" and add the 4" to the Prop up base? This will make the chair extra rigid so that the leg can also screw into the frame.

For the wheel, just cut 2 45 degree angle pieces and screw it into the back so that the leg and the frame are join.

Great site and the chair plan.

So I just put the base together, all boards cut exactly to size. I didn't double check the math since everyone seemed to build just fine with the above instructions. However, when I laid the deck boards down the over hang by 0.75".

According to Ana's plans, 51" + 24.25" = 74.5"
Obviously this is wrong, and I've already cut the back pieces to 25".
Would you suggest moving the 19" support back, making the distance 23.5" instead of 24.25"? How is this going to affect the back support?
Anyone else have these problems?
Thanks

So I just put the base together, all boards cut exactly to size. I didn't double check the math since everyone seemed to build just fine with the above instructions. However, when I laid the deck boards down the over hang by 0.75".

According to Ana's plans, 51" + 24.25" = 74.5"
Obviously this is wrong, and I've already cut the back pieces to 25".
Would you suggest moving the 19" support back, making the distance 23.5" instead of 24.25"? How is this going to affect the back support?
Anyone else have these problems?
Thanks

Guess its my fault for not checking the math, but now on the next step and more measurement problems. These plans are worthless, I wasted $100 on lumber and supplies and now have a bunch of expensive firewood.

The deck boards are 4" wide, giving a total width of 20". Add on the (6) 0.25" gaps give you a total width of 21.5". Ana expects this to fit in 19" of space.

As much as I was excited to tackle this project, I must say this was a complete waste of time, energy and money.

Guess its my fault for not checking the math, but now on the next step and more measurement problems. These plans are worthless, I wasted $100 on lumber and supplies and now have a bunch of expensive firewood.

The deck boards are 4" wide, giving a total width of 20". Add on the (6) 0.25" gaps give you a total width of 21.5". Ana expects this to fit in 19" of space.

As much as I was excited to tackle this project, I must say this was a complete waste of time, energy and money.

Nikohall, you mentioned that your deck boards are exactly 4", correct? Stock lumber that is labeled __" x 4" actually measures 3.5" - 3.75" in width depending on your area. This information is available on Ana's Getting Started page along with other great information here: http://ana-white.com/2011/03/how-do-i-get-started.

When we understand that she used stock lumber, the math works.
(3.5 x 5) + (0.25 x 6) = 19

I hope this helps, and sorry for the frustrations you've encountered thus far. Don't give up!