Single Lounger for the Simple Modern Outdoor Collection
April 24, 2011 |
16 Comments
posted by Ana White
PDF version
Single lounger for the Simple Modern Outdoor Collection. Features simple prop-up back with adjustable positions.
Additional Photos
Handmade from this plan >>
About Project
Dimensions
Dimensions:
Dimensions:
Dimensions are shown above. Materials and Tools
Shopping List:
9 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - set of hinges less than 1 1/2" wide
1 - set of 3" hinges
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
wood glue
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools:
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander
level
countersink drill bit
Cut List
Cut List:
2 - 1x4 @ 74 1/2" (Frame Sides)
5 - 1x4 @ 19" (Frame Joists)
5 - 1x4 @ 51" (Deck Boards)
2 - 1x4 @ 76" (Deck Boards - Sides)
4 - 1x4 @ 11 1/4" (Legs)
2 - 1x2 @ 23 1/2" (Cleats)
5 - 1x4 @ 25" (Deck Boards - Back - Cut from main deck boards to match patterns)
3 - 2x2 @ 17 1/2" (Back Supports)
2 - 2x2 @ 9 1/4" (Prop Up Supports)
1 - 1x2 @ 18 3/4" (Prop Up Base)
1x2 Scraps for the Stops
General Instructions
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Step 1
To build this lounger, you can either use the Kreg Jig (pocket hole recommendations shown above) or tradditional screws and nails. If you do use the Kreg Jig, it is recommended that you drill all pocket holes prior to building, and that you set your Kreg Jig for 3/4" stock and use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.
What I like to do is inspect every single cut board as compared to the diagram above, and mark all pocket hole locations, and then predrill the pocket holes.
Step 2
Build the frame as shown above, using either 2" screws countersunk or the Kreg Jig. Make sure that the frame is very square.
Step 3
Attach the decking boards as shown above. Use either the Kreg Jig or 2" finish nails and glue, nailing into the frame joists. Notice that the decking does not cover the sides of the frame. You can click on any diagram for a larger view.
Step 4
Now the decking. Nail or Kreg Jig it to the frame as shown above.
Step 5
And add the legs. The legs should be attached to both the frame and the side decking.
Step 6
The cleats should sit flush to the bottom of the frame as shown above. Use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to secure.
Step 7
Build the back as shown above. Use 2" screws to screw through the 2x2s into the backs of the decking to hide holes. It is a good idea to make sure the back properly fits inside the lounger before using glue or attaching all screws.
Step 8
Attach the back with the 3" hinges as shown above. Make sure that the back properly fits inside the opening and fully closes.
Step 9
Build the prop up as shown above, and attach to the back with the 1 1/2" hinges. Test to make sure the back still fully closes.
Step 10
Now take some of the 1x2 scraps and create stops as shown above to hold the prop up in place. You can space these at any desired location.
Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions:
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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Send by emailYAY thanks for making and
YAY thanks for making and sharing these plans ANA! Glad to see you used my photos too!
posted by Wiscousonian (not verified) | on Mon, 2011-04-25 07:15
clips
Thank you for sharing your beautiful photo!
You inspired me! Thank you, your photos are just so beautiful! I love how you kept your boards the same, even on the back rest. Clever and classy.
clips
Single Lounger - adding wheels?
Any suggestions on how we could add wheels to the back of this for ease of maneuverability?
posted by cathybchicago | on Tue, 2011-04-26 10:06
Wheels
Not sure about wheels, it might change how sturdy these are. The legs help ground the chair so that it doesn't flex much. With wheels id be afraid of the legs taking a lot of horizontal stress because the wheels will want to fold back, whereas with legs only they cant move so the weight is forced down...make any sense? Also they are not that heavy that they are not movable if you're following the sunny areas around your yard throughout the day.
posted by wiscousonian (not verified) | on Fri, 2011-04-29 09:58
So excited for the return of
So excited for the return of plans for the simple modern outdoor collection! My first chair was from this collection and I'm loving this lounger! Time to break in the Kreg!
posted by Amy @ this DIY life (not verified) | on Mon, 2011-04-25 12:37
Type of wood?
What type of wood did you use on this Single Lounger for the Simple Modern Outdoor Collection? I love the lounger and will build this in the next couple of weeks.
In the above photos I used
In the above photos I used Cedar that i sanded and polyurethaned very thoroughly with about 4 coats. they are very glossy and smooth!
posted by Wiscousonian (not verified) | on Mon, 2011-04-25 14:34
Very nice. Thank you for the details.
I really want to build on soon, I have been saving up some cedar for one of these. The photos are great and it is very helpful to see where the holes are put. Thanks again great photos. Love your pool too!
Wheels
Wheels could be mounted on simple struts that would extend out the back of the legs, so they're off the ground when it's in the 'resting' position, but when you lift the opposite end the angle would put the wheels in contact with the ground. Just a thought.
wheels
rather than a strut at the end you could place the wheel axel towards the back of the leg for the same affect.
I love these plans! Thank
I love these plans! Thank you! Here is a DIY Lounge Pillow TUTE from Martha. These would be great with your lounger! http://www.marthastewart.com/273544/custom-made-cushions?backto=true&backtourl=/photogallery/sewing-projects#slide_36
Hi
I went to work on this lounger today. I altered a couple of things on the plan. 1). I rounded edges everywhere someone might grab the lounger as well as between the borders. I know part of the charm is the flatness but I was worried someone might cut themselves on the edges (yep, they were that sharp). I used a quarter bit rounder on my router table to do this. 2). I couldn't figure out where to put the Kreg jig digs on the joists, so I simply did 30 holes across the joist and, when I laid the planks, used some but not all of them. I spaced the digs using the B and C holes in the jig, used the long screw head in B, drilled C, moved over until I'd done all 30. It was approximately 45 mins per joist. NOT fun. 3). When I was cutting down the 2x4 to 1 1/8, I cut 1/4" off each deck plank. Then I cut those to 3/4" and used them as spacers between the planks. 4). I painted a 'Sea Mist' stain on the boards and frame before assembling. Just a first coat. I'll give another one once its fully assembled. So there I am. The body is put together, the 5 body planks are on. Later, will put on the sides and assemble the top.
clips
A couple of questions
Almost done with the lounger... A couple of questions: The back is 25". If the supports are 2x2, separating them by 3.25, 5.25, 12 plus 2 plus 2 plus 2 = 26.5, not 25. Going to leave the bottom one off until I see how its fitting. Also, because I cut the back support to size (1", I'm going to have to add back to its thickness. Anyone else have this problem?
clips
OK so its finished
Will have a brag blog along presently. For the next person building, consider the following: The measurements on the back are not precise and following them will lead to trouble. They can work, but I was not able to follow the measurements and have the top close well. Instead, I opted for it to sit half an inch above the rest of the lounger. Not happy about the hinge mechanism for the top, may have to look for more of a specialty item for that. All in all, this project was much more challenging than I thought it would be. But it does look great.
Frame width ... A little small
Why make the frame width little small (19")? Which make the deck board side sitting only on the frame very little. Can we just increase this to 23" and add the 4" to the Prop up base? This will make the chair extra rigid so that the leg can also screw into the frame. For the wheel, just cut 2 45 degree angle pieces and screw it into the back so that the leg and the frame are join. Great site and the chair plan.
I love what youve got to say.
I love what youve got to say. But maybe you could a little more in the way of content so people could connect with it better. Youve got an awful lot of text for only having one or two pictures. Maybe you could space it out better? Full CN Tanks Article
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