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toy box #2 & #3

June 5, 2011 |
posted by jaimecostiglio
Additional Photos
toy box #2 & #3
toy box #2 & #3
toy box #2 & #3
toy box #2 & #3
toy box #2 & #3
About This Project

open toy boxes with personalization

From Plan (new): 
Estimated Cost: 
$35.00 each
Estimated Time Investment: 
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Required Skill Level: 
Intermediate
Type of Wood: 
3/4" plywood, #2 pine boards, cove moulding
Finish Used: 
1. one coat primer 2. two coats semi-gloss white 1. three coats Behr paint + primer Signature blue
clips

Lettering

These are beautiful! What do you use for the lettering? I recently made the stackable toy boxes for my nieces and wanted to put their initials on them. I practice on a piece of plywood, but I didn't like the results.

posted by karab | on Sun, 2011-06-05 20:43
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jaimecostiglio's picture

lettering

Karab,
I printed out the names (Engravers font), taped the paper to the box, traced with a pen to get an indent into the wood, painted inside the indent. Good luck.

Jaime
www.thatsmyletter.blogspot.com

posted by jaimecostiglio | on Mon, 2011-06-06 04:47
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brookifer86's picture

*sigh*

Your work is always so beautiful! Love these toy boxes, they're pure perfection

posted by brookifer86 | on Mon, 2011-06-06 15:54
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jaimecostiglio's picture

Thanks Brooke

I actually recognize your wedding guestbook bench from all the linky parties but I had no idea you were also a builder over here at Ana's place. Nice to have fellow buildy gals.

Jaime
www.thatsmyletter.blogspot.com

posted by jaimecostiglio | on Mon, 2011-06-06 16:10

Cost

I agree with the others, your builds are always so beautiful. Question on cost: I noticed Lily's toy box cost you $50 and these cost you $35. Was it because these weren't cabinet grade. My co-worker wants me to make one for her daughter for Christmas and I'd like to keep the cost down while still having a nice product, of course!

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Tue, 2011-08-30 20:30

Cost was lower

because I was able to use some scraps for the sides and short molding pieces. They are still cabinet grade, I wouldn't recommend using regular 3/4" plywood - it's too rough even with sanding it would be very rustic. One sheet of cabinet grade 3/4" plywood costs $29 at my HD, you can definitely get all your pieces from one sheet. Plus to keep costs down make the base molding out of plywood scraps rather than buying new especially if you are painting. I guess if you have to buy everything: 3/4 ply, 1 x 2s and cove molding it would be closer to $40 plus paint and primer. Good luck, such a nice sizable, sturdy, functional gift.

posted by Jaime (not verified) | on Wed, 2011-08-31 05:36

Cost was lower

because I was able to use some scraps for the sides and short molding pieces. They are still cabinet grade, I wouldn't recommend using regular 3/4" plywood - it's too rough even with sanding it would be very rustic. One sheet of cabinet grade 3/4" plywood costs $29 at my HD, you can definitely get all your pieces from one sheet. Plus to keep costs down make the base molding out of plywood scraps rather than buying new especially if you are painting. I guess if you have to buy everything: 3/4 ply, 1 x 2s and cove molding it would be closer to $40 plus paint and primer. Good luck, such a nice sizable, sturdy, functional gift.

posted by Jaime (not verified) | on Wed, 2011-08-31 05:35

:-)

Okay, thanx for the tips, much appreciated!


posted by spiceylg | on Wed, 2011-08-31 06:58

Lid w/ hinges

I really like the look of this toy box! Would it be hard to add a lid with hinges ? Thanks

posted by Brad chunn (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-01-01 20:41
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jaimecostiglio's picture

Lid

Brad I don't think a lid with hinges would be hard. Watch out for pinched fingers on those little ones - it inevitably always happens! Go for the slow closing hinge.

Jaime
www.thatsmyletter.blogspot.com

posted by jaimecostiglio | on Sat, 2012-01-07 15:27

Footer

Hi, is the footer attached with nails or screws? Anna's directions aren't clear because step 2 which outlines the footer is a duplicate of step one which is about fastening the sides and front.

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Tue, 2012-03-13 08:53
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jaimecostiglio's picture

Footer is attached

with 1 1/4" wood screws. Considering this is the support for the box unit I definitely recommend screws, 3 per long sides.
Good luck.

Jaime
www.thatsmyletter.blogspot.com

posted by jaimecostiglio | on Tue, 2012-03-13 16:14

Footer corners

Thanks a bunch! One more question, I have the same base moulding you chose, how did you get the top corners to line up so seamlessly? When I put mine together as a sample they don't fit well at the top

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Tue, 2012-03-13 22:35
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jaimecostiglio's picture

For base moulding

I used 3/4" plywood and cut out the arch with a jig saw. The corners should line up fine if your box is square. Once you attach the footer piece then miter cut the cove moulding and it should sit perfectly on the ledge of that footer. You can see more process picks in my posts here:

http://thatsmyletter.blogspot.com/2011/11/t-is-for-toy-box-4.html

http://thatsmyletter.blogspot.com/2011/05/t-is-for-toy-box.html

Jaime
www.thatsmyletter.blogspot.com

posted by jaimecostiglio | on Wed, 2012-03-14 06:35

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