Farmhouse Storage Bed with Storage Drawers

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Farmhouse Storage Bed with Storage Drawers

Farmhouse Bed plans for a small space! This bed packs lots of storage in a more compact profile. Detailed step by step plans to help you build your own DIY Farmhouse Bed!

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Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

So excited to add this plan to the Farmhouse Bed Collection! Thank you for requesting!

It's an updated approach to our most popular plan.

I've made a few changes to this bed.  The panels are plywood (although you can still do beadboard paneling or planks for a more country look) and the overall width is 7" narrower than the tradditional Farmhouse Beds.  The reason for this is the mattress on this bed extends all the way to the outsides of the legs, instead of to the insides.  
So if you have a compact space, this bed is a great alternative to the Farmhouse Bed.  It's smaller and includes six huge HUGE drawers for storage.
Please do not attempt this bed as a beginner project with the drawers.  For drawers to work, you must build perfectly square, and all cuts must be square and straight.
Shopping List: 

3 - Sheets 3/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
1 1/2 - Sheets 1/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
2 - 4x4 post, 7 feet long
2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long
3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long (cut longest first!)
5 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood cut into 5 strips 9 1/4" wide)
6 - Euro Style Drawer Slides (the cheapo white ones) 14" long, medium to heavy duty rating
2 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
5 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 feet long (OR 1/4" plywood cut into strips 2 1/2" wide)
4" Screws (if you are not using a pocket hole jig and will be attaching 4x4 legs to panels with screws)
6 Knobs or handles

2 inch screws
3 inch screws
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
table saw
nailer
sander
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above for queen size.
Cut List: 

HEADBOARD
1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 26" x 53"
2 - 1x4 @ 53"
2 - 4x4 @ 54"
2 - 2x4 @ 53"
1 - 2x4 @ 60"
1 - 2x6 @ 62"

FOOTBOARD
1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15" x 53"
2 - 1x4 @ 53"
2 - 4x4 @ 19"
2 - 2x4 @ 53"
1 - 2x4 @ 60"
1 - 2x6 @ 62"

STORAGE BOXES
4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 80 1/4"
8 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 13 1/2"
2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 79 1/2" x 15"

SUPPORT & CENTER
2 - 2x2 @ 80 1/4"
4 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4"
18 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Slats to mattress specs)

DRAWER BOXES
12 - 1x10 @ 23 1/4"
12 - 1x10 @ 14"
6 - 1/4" Plywood @ 24 3/4" x 14"
*Plywood cut into 9 1/2" strips can be substituted for 1x10s, use at least 1/2" plywood, for direct conversion, use 3/4" plywood

DRAWER FACES
6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 1/2" x 13 1/4"
12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 1/4"
12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 25 1/2"

Step 1: 

Have your hardware store rip the first piece into three equal sized strips, 15 1/2" wide. Then all you have to do is make the cross cuts at home. These cuts are from the 3/4" thick plywood.

Step 2 Instructions: 

From another sheet of 3/4" plywood, have your hardware store rip into two 15 1/2" strips and one 13 1/4" strip. From these strips cut the following pieces.

Step 3 Instructions: 

From the final 3/4" piece of plywood, cut it cross wise as noted in the diagram, and then cut your headboard and footboard panel from the larger half. From the remaining pieces, cut your remaining drawer faces as shown above.

Step 4 Instructions: 

From the 1/4" plywood, cut the following pieces. You will need to either purchase an additional 1/2 sheet of plywood for the two remaining drawer bottoms, or you could use leftover 3/4" stock for the remaining two drawer bottoms.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Attach 1x4 trim to panel of headboard. You will do the same with the footboard panel.

Step 6 Instructions: 

This is a relatively easy task if you have a Kreg Jig - simply drill 3/4" pocket holes along sides of panel and attach to legs. Make sure you are leaving 1 1/2" to the back of the panel as shown above (Very important with footboard).

If you are using traditional screws, mark the legs where they meet up with the panel at the top and bottom (where the panel is covered in trim. Use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a hole 2" deep into the legs. In this hole, use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a second hole all the way through the 4x4s. Attach to panel with 4" screws and glue.
Step 7 Instructions: 

Attach the bottom supports in the same manner as the panel, carefully locating as shown in diagram.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Hooray, an easy step! Attach as shown above.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Finally the crown. I'd screw on myself to minimize any gaps.

Step 10 Instructions: 

The footboard is built just like the headboard - make sure you leave 1 1/2" to the back of the panel - see next step ...

Step 11: 

This is so your 2x4 spacers fit just right in the backs. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 12: 

You can build these with either a pocket hole jig or traditional screws. Build square if you are using drawers or your drawers will not slide right.

Step 13: 

Attach back to the boxes with finish nails and glue. Make sure you nail into all center dividers too. The back will help keep things straight and minimize sagging.

Step 14: 

Now this is where things get fun! Take a minute and cut some leftover 4x4s or 2x4s 4" long and use them as blocking to hold the boxes up as you screw to the headboard and footboard. Screw from the inside of the boxes into the legs and supports.

Step 15: 

Attach the cleats to the back side of the boxes, leaving 3/4" gap to the top.

Step 16: 

Especially if you move up to a king, you will need to add some support to the center. Some 2x2s "legs" as shown above will never be seen, but add a tremendous amount of support to the bed.

Step 17: 

Finally, lay the slats. Per your mattress recommendation, you may need more (or can get away with less) slats.

Step 18: 

Build six drawers as shown above. Your drawers must be perfectly square to slide properly into the bed. Remember, your drawer should be exactly 1" less than the overall width of the opening, and 1" less deep as well.

Step 19: 

Install drawers into bed as shown in diagram, using the white euro style drawer slides that cup the bottom corners of the drawers. Make sure drawer sits inset 1" from outside of box to allow for drawer face. Adjust drawer slides until you are satisfied with how the drawer opens/closes.

Step 20: 

Build the drawer faces by attaching 1/4" hobby stock (or other moulding) to the faces with 3/4" finish nails and glue. Place drawer face on installed drawers, with an 1/8" gap on all sides of drawer face. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Room: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

We have been looking for a bed with storage and a headboard. Any chance you will be upsizing the plans to show what they would be for a King mattress?

Thank you, thank you. My husband and I were just looking at your Farmhouse King bed plans, that I printed a few weeks ago, trying to figure out how we could add storage drawers. You have answered our questions. Now to convert for a king bed. Thank you- love your creativity, functionality, and main stream living designs for everyday people. Can't wait to see what you come up with next, keep up the great work!

Thank you everyone, very excited to finish this plan and happy with how it turned out! It's a complicated one, so make sure you read through everything before building.

To go up to a king, you would need to add width depending on your King bed size. I would highly recommend adding additional support to the center too - either framing up a 2x4 box for the center and laying plywood on it or running a center support down the center, with "legs" running off of it.

Good luck and thank you!
Ana

Could you do a diagram of this please?. I *think* I know what you are describing, but I want to be certain. I want to build this in Full size for my brother-- who weighs over 360lbs and is "the breaker of box springs". I want to add extra support in the middle to make sure it won't collapse under him.

This would bring a ton of room to my bedroom!! I wish I had the tools and space to make this bed!!

I am assuming this if for a queen sized bed...

Thank you for all you do!!!

Dh will want box springs. Can they be used? Will the bed end up too high? Thanks. I love this bed!

I love this plan! Several months back, I modified the previous storage bed plans to do something pretty close to this in a King size. One of the differences is that I made the back-most drawers (the ones closest to the headboard) only 16" wide and made the remaining 2 drawers on each side wider, since those back drawers will normally be blocked by nightstands. So those are for not-often-needed items, and I get the rest of the length for easy access storage.

It's been mentioned that these types of platform beds can foster mold growth on mattresses in high-humidity areas, and I'm in north FL so it's a concern for me. I added more breathe-ability to mine by using 2X4 slats across the entire width, instead of making the center support as shown in these plans. I just added a molding board along the sides to cover the 2X4 edges.

I got busy with other stuff and haven't finished the headboard and footboard, but we've been sleeping on it for months and it's been fantastic. Have to get back to this project soon, and now I know I'll be using these plans for the headboard and footboard!

I would love to see your variation with the slats across the entire width. Would you mind posting a picture? Thanks, Serena

Sure, I'm not sure if there's a way to embed photos here in a comment, but here are links to 2 pics:
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz208/dee850/Storage%20Bed/IMG_4269.jpg
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz208/dee850/Storage%20Bed/IMG_4267.jpg

These are in-progress photos. We wanted to make the bed really easy to disassemble for potential moving in the future, so we also glued/nailed spacers in between each slat, cut from 2X4 scraps. The big side boxes are 24" deep, so the center space is only 28" across.

I know this is an old thread, but I just found it recently. You said you made the drawers near the nightstand only 16 inches, but exactly how wide did you make each of the other drawers?
Were they evenly sized or did you have one larger than the other?
Would the width of the drawers be the same on a queen as on a king?
Thank you for sharing the information! After I practice on some other projects I think I will attempt a variation of this. I'm a bit rusty on my woodworking and I won't have any help this time around.

Hi, Dee!

Your idea to make the cubbies closer to the headboard is a great idea. I was actually trying to sketch something like that out. I would think that instead of having an actual drawer in the part obscured by night stands, there could be a shelf in the middle-- although that might make it hard to get to stuff on the bottom shelf-- I'm not sure. Maybe some decorative trim could be put on the edge to give it the illusion of having a drawer and the rest will be hidden from view by the night stand.

I've been reading that a rug mat (to keep rugs from slipping) can be placed underneath to prevent mold.

Memory foam mattresses supposedly don't grow mold. I got a 14" one from Overstock for under $500 with free shipping. It weighs 90lbs though. It comes with all of the air pushed out and is rolled up and put in a sack. You have to find a place to lay it out for it to puff up before using it. I think that takes about 48 hours.

When you decreased the opening to 16" for the nighstand area space, what size did you make the other spaces?

I tried to download the PDF and the link isn't working for this plan. Just thought I'd let you know.

LOVE this bed. I had planned to build a Farmhouse bed for my husband and I but then I saw this and I LOVE it so much more! We always are griping about needing more storage - kills two birds with one stone!

The point of this type of bed is to get a firm, quiet bed without box springs. The idea is to lose the wasted space of the springs for the useful drawers. You could just put the box spring on, but it would be really high.

This is so aewsome! I was feeling lonely there for a while because I didn't see any other women interested in wood wroking. This is great! The bed looks a little complicated (because it looks heavy) but doable with a little time a bit of elbow grease, and a little help wouldn't hurt eitther.

I'm going to try to build this! Has anyone else tried? Where's the tough spots? I know Ana identified a few in the directions, has anyone else hit any problem areas?

Any recommendations to make this bed more portable? I live in a NYC apartment and need a bed that disassembles. Love the design though.

I'm thinking this will be the "big boy bed" for my son... and I plan on bolting the pieces together, as Ana has mentioned in other farmhouse bed plans. That was you can just undo the bolts and have the two drawer units, and the header and footer to move seperately. The slats could still be screwed and just unscrewed for transport too.

Would it be possible to cheat and use your old headboard and footboard, thus skipping a few steps and will only have to build the storage drawers and will save you time on making the headboard and footboard.

I think that you probably could. That is what I plan to do. I really like my existing headboard (my bed does not have a footboard). I think you just have to measure the thickness of your headboard and make adjustments based on that.

I love the look of this bed and am wanting to build something similar for my son I am looking for plans for a double bed with a twin trundle bed under it instead of drawers. If you get a chance to draw something like that up I would LOVE it! I have been looking for a double with a trundle under it and they are very hard to come by. THANKS!

we are going to build this bed as soon as we go and get the materials. MUST use wood from a sustainable source, better for the environment. and someone asked where you could by this bed... well WOOD YOU, an unfinished wood store has one very similar to this... its over $1400. can't wait to have this one made though! makes it a bit more special! thanks!!!

I really like the plans for the bed however I have a question about wood because of my inexperience. It appears that by using plywood you are assuming that the bed will be painted because there is no discussion about covering the edges of the plywood for the boxes that hold the drawers. I would like to make this bed and stain it, any suggestions on wood. What type of wood is used for wood not marked plywood or hobby stock.

Thanks for your help!

You can use the less expensive wood for the parts you don't see, and good, furniture grade wood (oak, maple, etc) for the parts you do see. Good luck!

I am wanting to build this bed for my son. However, a queen is more bed than he needs right now. Is there any way to get this plan with "full" dimensions?

Just take the difference from the two sizes and subtract that from the pieces that go from one side to the other. Full mattresses tend to be shorter than queen so you would have to decrease that amount in length. This will in turn change the dimensions of the drawers.

Hello Ana, I am finishing with the Headboard. I was using oak plywood and 1x4 and 1x6 oak pieces. The posts a 4x4 untreated wood from Home depot. My question is, Because I want to stain it and the 4x4 posts a not oak, "How will the stain look?" will staining be a mistake. I will use wood conditioner, also thinking to use wood reinforcement for posts (to strengthen wood fibers). Will I do something wrong. Please take a look at my pictures, attached with link. I added a 1x1 piece on the back panel because headboard is very heavy and the a got the gap between. I plan to use some wood filler. If anyone have experience with staining the 4x4 post please reply.

I am also looking to build this bed in a twin size version. Are their any plans? Also, has any one built this who can give me an idea of material costs? I will probably use knotty pine since I will be painting it white.

I'm a bit confused by the plans. It seems in this case that to make the storage boxes calls for 8 - 15 1/2 x 13 1/2 3/4in plywood, but the cut diagram in step 1 and 2 results in 4 15 1/2 x 13 1/2 and 4 15 1/2 x 13 1/4. Am I missing something?

Hi,

I've all my wood cut to the cut diagrams to find the same issue as you and wondered the same thing ...how did you get on with finding answers. I'd love to hear and do not want to start putting it together without figuring this out..

 

Hi,

I've all my wood cut to the cut diagrams to find the same issue as you and wondered the same thing ...how did you get on with finding answers. I'd love to hear and do not want to start putting it together without figuring this out..

 

I love this plan! I was looking for a platform bed for my 9 year old's room and refuse to pay for a particle board piece of garbage. We will be modifying this plan for a twin and I want my husband to skip the head board and make 2 foot-boards instead (we live in a house built in the 1800's his room is really small)...I will post pic's when we're done, wish us luck!

What about making like a bed that rolls out and it has drawers because my friends daughter has it and when my daughter spends the night she says it's really cool because it's a pull out bed but with drawers so there is two beds and a dresser! Perfect for my daughters friends! But I don't want to buy it and so I want my husband to build it with my daughter but he has to work all the time! Even on the weekends! So I wanted something like that and fast…is it too much to ask…?

Thank you Ana!

My husband and I are really wanting to build this bed for our 9 year old daughter. The only problem is her room is not big enough for a queen we need a full. Do you have any full size plans for this bed??? Thank you so much for all of your neat tutorials and plans.

How much did this cost (using plywood) or using more expensive wood?

How long did this take everyone?

Im thinking of putting my bf on this task as a similar bed i want online is $1600 and takes 12 weeks ( made by amish)

I am updating my son's room and will be adding another son in there. Ana, can you please make a set of these plans for twin size? Pretty please! :)

Awesome bed! Among others would love to have twin size instructions needed for 2 grandson with small bedrooms - thanks a million! Marie D.

I am anxious to make this bed with a few alterations. I'll be making it king size. Here's what I'm thinking. First off, I want to double the drawers by making the cubbie spaces 24" high and running 2 drawer glides. I would also like to make the drawers 24" deep. I plan to use 3/4 plywood on the back of the cubbie as well just to add strength, I will also build the 2' x 4' support frame for under the boxes. Any suggestions on how this make work or potential pitfalls would be greatly appreciated.

I would also like to put together a full-sized version of this bed. I'm moving into my own apartment in about a month and have been looking to build my own frame. This storage frame is just the kind of space saver I need!

I'm assuming that the dimensions for these plans are for your average 60x80 Queen mattresses, seeing as the dimensions for the base frame itself are 60x80. Average Full mattresses (in North America) are 54x75, yes? How involved do you think it would be to just do a little math and downgrade all of the dimensions in proportion to each other?

Consider this:

If the extra length does not bother you, then the only real change is in the support boards which connect the two drawer sections. You can narrow those as you see fit.
Additionally, I do believe the Full Size plans are also in this site compliments of the great Ana-white.com creator/maintainer.

Is it too involved? I don't believe so, but then I'm one to modify things continually. I am using these base dimensions and modifying "horrifically" for deeper, longer drawers (to hold comforters). Also incorporating the fold-out drawer (shoe dresser) for storage up where the nightstands sit beside my bed. Lastly, No feet. My bed will be flat on the floor to control dust and dogs from getting under there.

If you don't have it, invest in the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig as well as the Kreg circular saw attachment for ripping wood, Well worth he cost.

What sort of hinges do you use for those? Just regular hinges? I'd love to see the plans for that. Also, thanks for the recommendation of the pocket hole jig and circular saw attachment.

I would like to build this and stain it. What kind of wood would be best and won't break the bank?

Here in Northern CA, I just estimated the cost of this project at $375. That's lumber from a local building supply. If I get everything at Home Depot the estimate was over $400. This is just materials and no tools. I think our lumber prices are too high.

Ana, I'm in LOVE with this bed! My Dad is DIYing an apartment for my son and me on my parent's property. I'm strapped for cash and have NO furniture, which I'm actually excited about because I can BUILD all my furniture, and design exactly what I want for my tiny space! I don't want much more furniture in my bedroom than my bed, but I need even MORE storage. When I was in Macy's one time, I happened to pass their bedding department and saw one of their display headboards which I really loved. It was deep, and there were long handles on the sides which almost looked like bars hand towels. It reminded me or a drawer handle, and I thought, "why couldn't I build a deep headboard with drawers on the sides? Then I could use the top of my headboard like a shelf, too!" I wonder if you could draw up plans like that... That would be the ULTIMATE in a storage bed! :)

I just LOVE your site, by the way. It's empowering, knowing that I can build nice furniture I can be proud of. Thank you, and keep up the amazing work!

If I already have a ton of 1/2" plywood, can I use that? Will anything turn out significantly different? I haven't had a half hour to look at this plan thoroughly yet. Thanks.

Is there any problem with making the drawers deeper instead of using slats? Making them each half the width of the bed?

Thanks so much - I love this site!!!

Hi Ana,

I love this bed and I'm trying to adapt it to a King size version, assuming 76" for the width of the mattress. Based on your plans, I'm wondering if there's an extra inch added into the headboard/footboard panels by mistake? The plans have the headboard/footboard panels spec'ed at 53". Including the posts, from their outside to outside, the plans say 60". The headboard crown length says 62", with the 1 inch overhangs on each end.

If the headboard/footboard panels are 53", and the posts are 4x4s, then the headboard width, from outer post to outer post, cannot be 60". It would be 61" (53+4+4). This would make the crown 63".

Please advise Ana. I'm trying to spec out the king size version. The dimensions below are what I have so far. The rest will be easy once I figure out where the extra inch came from. Or if I'm crazy!

Headboard/Footboard panel: 68"
Headboard/Footboard outer post to outer post: 76"
Headboard crown: 78"

Thanks again,

Aaron

I'm planning to build the farmhouse storage queen, with some modifications to the height and drawer depth. I'm planning on using oak plywood for the boxes, and staining them. How are people finishing the visible edges of the boxes? Do pine 2x4's, 2x6's finish out to look okay, or is it worth the quadruple cost of buying oak?

I've already built the traditional farmhouse bed, for my own home. It's a beautiful bed, which is as solid as the rock of gibraltar. Couldn't be happier with it!

Here's the thing: some good friends of mine, after seeing that bed, have asked me to build one for them. However, they're more interested in the storage version of the farmhouse bed, shown on this page. My concern, as well as theirs, is how strong is this design, compared to the other one? The original farmhouse bed is framed with 2x10 rails, and 2x6 supports spaced 16" on center, all tied together with a 3/4" plywood top. In comparison, this storage version of the farmhouse bed, has no rails at all. I'm concerned with bending/bowing of the plywood cabinet boxes, particularly at the outside edges (as in, when he/she sits down at the edge of the bed, putting their entire body weight directly over an unsupported piece of plywood spanning 26"). The couple I'm building this bed for, is on the large side.

So, my question is, has anybody who's built this bed, experienced any bowing or sagging issues? Does anybody have any ideas for how I could reinforce it, without significantly altering the plans?

One more question: what have other users done, to hide all the plywood end grain in this design? I don't see anything in these plans for applying any edge banding, or hardwood strips, so I'm just wondering how others have worked around this.

Thanks a bunch!

To cover the plywood end grain, I used screen molding to cover, glue and nails.
To help protect the paint from wear, last coat was clear poly.

Got a deal on baskets that had glides so I did not make drawers.

I built it. I altered the design a couple of ways. I put blocks under the 'boxes' that are the storage units where they abut against the headboard and foot board. That way, I knew they would be easy to take off and put back on again later without having to hold the boxes looking for screwholes. I used 3/4 plywood, primed and painted, glued and screwed.

I also did some substantial carving on the legs, head and footboard and backlit a headboard insert with LED lighting.

All in...VERY strong. If you want to see pictures of the bed and the build, you can click the link below. Its my facebook page. I posted this on Ana's site, but I didn't get much response. Its possible that I somehow didn't make the couple of pics public or something.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150844261192960.416336.65162...

Wow! That is amazing. Do I even want to know how much that carving machine costs to buy? Does it require a computer or something?

You said Ana made mistakes in her plan. Can you outline what mistakes she made and what you did differently?

Thanks!

Is this design plan for a queen sized bed? Does anyone know? If not, could someone please tell me how I figure out how to change dimensions for a queen?

Thank you!

Bri Frerich

I have a few questions about this plan:
How would you stop the mattress from sliding? Even though my mattress weighs 90lbs, it tends to slide.

Where can I find the plans for the Full version of this bed?

Are there any plans for double drawers (one on top of the other) instead of just single drawers?

What about the space in the middle of the bed? It looks like it could be used for storage-- what options are there for accessing that storage?
(I love Birdsandsoap's hinged footboard idea).

What modifications could be made if I wanted to use something like SUSPA® 100 LB Gas Spring/Prop/Strut/Shock to have the top lift up to access storage under the mattress?

Are there any better ideas for accessing that space?

Instead of a footboard, what about a footboard dresser like the Lea Industries Dillon footboard dresser?
http://www.ivgstores.com/prodimages-cdls/LA/la-906-241.jpg

If I wanted to have this sit on the floor so nothing could get underneath, but wanted it propped up on something with a toekick on the sides instead, what would I have to change?

Are there diagrams of suggestions for more support in the middle?

Thanks for these plans. It really is giving me a lot of ideas. I admit the storage part and platform are the part that I am looking at the most since I love my existing headboard. I do not currently have a footboard though.

Hello Zannej,

I don't have all answers for your questions, but I can suggest for the 1st question about preventing the mattress for sliding, I can guess that using some wood shims would stop the sliding. Also, unless you have pleennnttyyy space on the side if you want to make the drawers with more depth.

For the other question about using double drawers, you may want to reconsider it, as you may be getting the bed level way to high. I speak from experience, my in-laws have a solid wood king size bed with double drawers and doors opening on the footboard to access the "middle" storage area. My wife have to open the bottom drawers in order to "climb" to the bed.

Just my 2 cents.

I was thinking of making shallower drawers or of having single drawers but the faces would give the illusion of double drawers. I have a 14" mattress but I used to have a 24" mattress. For awhile (before I was able to remove the old one) I had the new mattress stacked on top of the old on on top of the box spring which is on a metal frame. That was actually a bit too high for me, but I could easily add another 10" of height to my mattress and have it be comfortable. It's actually easier for me to get in and out of that way.
But you do have a good point. I wouldn't want the bed to be too high since I'm only 5'5".
Now, for my brother's bed it can afford to be higher because he's about 6'3".

Doors on the footboard would be another option as well. I wish the hydraulic lift thing was easier to figure out because that way we could access storage near the headboard.

Ok, so six months later...bed is still every bit as strong. I did add on item: I cut a piece of plywood the exact size of the bed and threw it on top of the boxes,under the mattress. It has been described as the most comfortable rock ever...

To the person asking and the carving machine, its around 1,500 which sounds like a lot, but I've made five pieces of furniture with it and its the gift that keeps giving (not really a gift, my wife was gonna kill me when I bought it). But seriously, I have no talent for carving and what I wanted, it was the easiest we to get closest. If you're interested, you can go to CarveWright.com to see about the carving unit.

now into the next project!

Thanks for the info on the carving machine, geophyrd. It sounds like you've made good use of it.

I did a little hand carving in woodworking class although it was nothing spectacular.

So it's time for a new bed frame and I've located this idea and LOVE it!! My only question...due to back issues we need to use a box spring, mattress, and memory foam for our bed, can this combination work on a platform style bed. Also, would the dimensions/cuts/etc. need to be adjusted to fit the extra height/weight of those items??

Thanks!

That's a whole lotta mattress going on. Here's some suggestions:

If you insist on mattress, boxspring and foam, your head and footboard will need to be higher to compensate. Doesn't sound like a big deal, but the ones I made would have been nearly all lost to the mattress if I'd put on a boxspring. Not a big deal, just prepare for it!

Build everything on Google Sketchup first. Awesome program, though it does have a bit of a learning curve. But the first time you touch wood, you'll know exactly what you're doing and be confident in your design.

Last, I put footers under the boxes, blocks of wood screwed to both frame and boxes for some extra support. I don't know that they're doing much, but i'm much more confident in my build because I know they're there!

Good luck! Post some pics when you're through!

I'm going to use this as a base design but I will be reusing waterbed drawer pedestals and the headboard.

What a great project! I was looking for plans to make myself one, the only thing is that I'm going to move eventually and would need to be able to disassemble it into parts (headboard, footboard, left drawers, right drawers, something like that). Do you have any suggestions how I could manage that?

Do you have the plans on how to make the storage boxes for a twin size bed. I would love to have these under my son's bed that I am planning to build for him. It will be his first real bed in his own room.
Thanks

Do you have the plans on how to make the storage boxes for a twin size bed. I would love to have these under my son's bed that I am planning to build for him. It will be his first real bed in his own room.
Thanks

If you click the "Plans" button at the top of the page, on the blue bar, you can search for specific plans. I had thought that I'd seen farmhouse twin storage bed on here before, but that may have just been a brag post that modified it, because I don't see it. There's a plan for a non-storage Farmhouse Twin Bed, and several other storage twin beds though. I recommend looking through the options, you may find another one you like, or you may be able to combine plans to try to create your own farmhouse twin storage bed.

Looking through your pictures, I love the color/how you did it.  A few router questions...can you tell me what you did for the edges of your boards?

Did you use a 45degree router bit on the edges of some of the boards? It looks like the 4x4's for the footboard had that done to them...or the lighting is making it look like that

And a roundover on the crown of the headboard/footboard?

And your 2x4's and such are nice and squared on the edges. Did you have to do that, like rip down from 2x8's?

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