Cheshire Vanity Stool

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Keywords: 
pottery barn, manchester bar stool, old paint design, stool, vanity, seat
Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above (not including foam for seat)
Dimensions: 
Kreg Jig: 
0
Project Type: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 
Estimated Cost: 
Style: 
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Summary: 

When we remodeled our master bathroom, I made sure to leave a space in the center of our vanity for a seat so that I could sit while doing my hair and make-up. Well, a year and a half later, I’m finally getting to build the stool. Modeled after Pottery Barn’s Manchester Bar Stool, I modified the design to be a smaller height ideal for a vanity. (In order to create the original barstool height, simply make your legs a bit longer. For the tall barstools, cut your 2x2s to 27 1/4″, allowing for 2″ of foam. For the medium sized barstools, your 2x2s should be 23 1/4″ long. I would also compensate for this additional hight by slightly raising up your 2×2 leg supports.)

This is an ideal beginner building project. It only took me about an hour to build the stool and about an afternoon to upholster. It also uses very simple materials as you only need 3 boards and a plywood scrap to build it. (If using pine, it equals out to about $5 in lumber.)

Head over to my blog to see the full project plan!
http://www.oldpaintdesign.com/2011/10/14/cheshire-vanity-stool/

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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