I am priming, painting (acrylic enamel) and using minwax clear gloss over MDF. I am brushing the paint on and am curious when the sanding is required to get a smooth finish. The table top is to be used as my kids art table, so I want a smooth surface so they don't get weird bumps on their paper.
Do I sand after my 2 coats of paint? I am using a fun lime green color, and don't want to dull the color. If their are brush strokes after the paint, will they become less noticeable after a few coats of poly? Should I sand after Each coat of poly, or after the 1st 2 and each additional one?
Thanks for the advice. I just want my table to come out right after all the work I have put into it :)
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claydowling
Thu, 01/19/2012 - 09:00
Hard to do
I recently did a desk for a friend and made the mistake of painting the top. What was supposed to be a one day project stretched out over several days as I tried to recover.
Paint won't self-level without an additive like floetrol. What I wound up doing was thinning with water and mixing with an acrylic finish (Valspar water bourne polyurethane), then applying it like it was a venetian plaster. That gave a smooth surface to the touch, but it's completely unprotected.
Getting a clear coat over that was a separate adventure. The Varathane product is very thick, which is great for coating legs and sides with a protective coating, but brush strokes never leveled out. I wound up treating that like a venetian plaster as well. It made a smooth surface for writing but doesn't have a nice surface appearance.
I recently picked up some water-bourne polyurethane from General Finishes, and it self-leveled quite nicely, just like the oil-based polyurethanes will if properly thinned. The product might yellow slightly over time, because based on the smell it definitely has some urethane in it with the acrylic, but over pine I saw no color change at all.
If you have a Woodcraft store within driving distance, they usually carry a nice selection from General Finishes and other suppliers. Otherwise you can mail order from companies like Rockler or Lee Valley. I've used both and received excellent service.
claydowling
Thu, 01/19/2012 - 09:06
Another option
It's probably a bit late at this point, but melamine coated plywood and particle board makes a great desk top (but not for the rest of the desk). It's the same material used for counter tops, and the better quality products can take a lot of abuse. You can buy white melamine edge banding in most home centers and woodworking stores.
If you don't want to go with generic white, the laminate counter top materials such as Formica or Wilsonart are also melamine, although they tend to be better quality than the stuff that comes already bonded to particle board.
goingfor3
Thu, 01/19/2012 - 10:33
Thanks for the response Clay.
Thanks for the response Clay. Sounds like I will just have to do what I can and be happy with the rest :) I wanted a very specific color for the whole desk and am not a fan of white, so melamine wasn't an option. This is an art table for my baby, and 4 &5 year old, so not a big deal, but I am also not looking to do all this work and have a lousy end product!
Is it a good or bad idea to do a light sanding (with a 220 or so grit) after the last Paint coat before starting the poly coats? Or should I limit my sanding to after the poly coats?
claydowling
Thu, 01/19/2012 - 10:51
Sanding first
Sand first, but give it 24-48 hours to dry. Paint dries very slowly. I would actually be slightly aggressive in the sanding. I took a 220 grit pad on a random orbital sander to mine, and got pretty nice results.
If you can sand the paint smooth, a really good water bourne finish like the General Finishes I mentioned will make a beautiful surface. Just stay away from the Varathane for the top, because it can't be thinned enough to maintain flow.