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Kitchen Base Cabinets 101

January 4, 2012 |

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posted by Ana White

There's been quite a few awkward moments of me peeking inside kitchen cabinets to get to this point. And I'm not interested in what type of peanut butter my friends like, or how they store their canned goods.  

I've been on a quest to find a way to build strong, high quality kitchen cabinets for less than flat pack - that mind you, you still have to "build" anyways - with simple tools and standard off the shelf materials and basic techniques.  Techniques that I can do, that most anyone can do.
I hope when you read through this post, you feel like, Man, Ana, these kitchen cabinet plans are so simple, how on earth could it take you a year to publish these plans? Because if you feel that way, I've done my job: Making kitchen cabinets buildable, simplifying the process without compromising the quality.  
Now certainly, plans could have been published sooner.  But understanding the permanence and great investment, time and moneywise, I could not in good faith publish plans for kitchen cabinets until I tried them out myself.  I'd rather me be stuck with cabinets I wish I could do over than you.  
But this will not be the case.
We at this point have built all the base cabinets, and are confident that the cabinets are strong and sturdy, good enough for my Mom's kitchen, and good enough for yours too.
Kitchen Base Cabinets 101


First I thought we'd go through some common terminology for cabinets.  Wall cabinets are very similar, just don't have a base and of course have a top and possibly crown. We'll go into more details later in this post. 
  • Cabinet Base - raises the cabinet up for a toekick and elevates bottom shelf.  On our cabinets, the base is separate and can be swapped out for store bought leg levelers.  Once all cabinets are installed, a toekick is installed over all the bases.
  • Carcass or Box - the carcass or box is simply the plywood structure of the cabinet.  
  • Supports - the supports are made from scrap plywood from the carcasses and are used for supporting and attaching the top and back.
  • Face Frame - Face frames add support and finish front plywood edges. 
  • Back - for these cabinet plans, we just use 1/4" plywood on the back.  You can also use 1/2", or even 1/2" inset, but the 1/4" is more than enough support on these cabinets.
Kitchen Base Cabinets 101


Let's start with the base. This is the foundation of your cabinets.  Using a base means you don't have to cut out a toekick, mark and square up your bottom placement on the sides.  You can also use what is called leg levelers instead of the base.
I use a 2x4 base - at about $2 a base, you can't beat the price.
Kitchen Base Cabinets 101

Townhouse Style

If you had to build a row of houses, all side by side, would you build ten houses and stack them next to each other?  Or would they share walls like townhouses do?  And foundations?  

Having a base allows you to fully support the cabinets, and enables you to easily build multiple cabinets in one. Let's say you have a row of cabinets, with no appliance interruptions. You could build just one long cabinet, with dividers, and place on the same base.

Reason why you can't just build two ends with a toekick notched out, and divide up?  there's no support in the center.  Sorry, we don't build saggy cabinets.  Keep the cabinets less than 36" between dividers to minimize sagging.
Saves time, saves materials.

Note of caution - if you are using full overlay doors, you'll need to do some figuring on how the doors overlay face frames, most likely using 1 1/4" overlay hinges on ends and 1/2" overlay hinges on center cabinets.

Kitchen Base Cabinets 101

Plywood Cutting

We've really given a ton of thought on how to easily and precisely cut your plywood pieces.  You will want to rip your plywood into strips 22 3/4" wide for face frames with 1/4" backs.  This way, your plywood grain is always in the right direction and the widths are always the same.  Save the center scrap piece to use for supports.  It's not waste.
Also, using this method, you can rent a tablesaw and make all your cuts in just a few hours.  Or even ask the home improvement store to make cuts if you can trust their track saw.
Kitchen Base Cabinets 101

Cutting Sides

Then with your strips, cut all your sides. These will be just simple cross cuts. You will be able to get 6 sides per piece of plywood. 
Remember, the overall cabinet height is 34 1/2".  With a 3 1/2" toekick, your sides are 31" tall.
Kitchen Base Cabinets 101

Cutting Bottoms

Bottoms are cut from the 22 3/4" wide strips as well.  Bottoms should be 2" less in width than your overall cabinet width.  1 1/2" for the sides, and then another 1/2" for your face frame to overextend your carcass.  We'll talk more about the face frame/carcass sizing in a bit.
Kitchen Base Cabinets 101

Box Construction

Once your pieces are cut for the box, you drill 3/4" pocket holes along inside front edges of sides, and on bottom, front and side edges.  
Alternatively, you can nail the face frames on, but you will have to hide nail holes.  This is up to you.
Kitchen Base Cabinets 101

Face Frames

Face frames are just simple 1x2 frames, built with 3/4" pocket holes and attached to the face.  BUT there is a catch ... the face frames are the full width of the cabinet, and over extend the box by 1/4" on each side.
This is done for four main reasons.
1.  Crooked Walls - if your walls are crooked, the space between the cabinets allows you to "fudge" a little with the cabinets, resulting in the face frames lining up perfectly, even if the boxes are a little off.
2.  Imperfect Boxes - Let's say your plywood bulges out just a tiny bit in the centers.  When you go to line cabinets up, you will have trouble pulling the cabinets together so your face frames are completely seamless.  With the gap in the center, you have some room to account for wood being less than perfect.
3.  Finishing Ends - And finally, on the ends, you can cover up the 2x4 bases by cutting 1/4" plywood and gluing over the end.  It will be hidden behind the face frame, so no edges exposed, and you'll be left with a beautiful finished end!  NOTE: You may wish to extend your face frame a tiny bit more on ends to allow a little more room for the 1/4" plywood.
4.  Appliances Abuse - It's a good thing to have a little space between your cabinets and say, your oven.  Having the extra space will also allow a little wiggle room when installing your dishwasher too.
So remember, your face frames are the cabinet's true width, and your boxes are 1/2" less in width.
Kitchen Base Cabinets 101


Use up your plywood scraps to save money for the supports.
Kitchen Base Cabinets 101


Once the plywood is cut, each cabinet takes about half an hour to make.  We were able to make both 24" wide drawer bases that flank the range from a single sheet of plywood.  Add some boards for a face frame, a 2x4 for the base, and 1/4" plywood for the back, and we are into each base for about $50.  The drawers of course are going to double that number, if not more depending on the slide quality, but comparing apples to apples, 3/4" plywood cabinets glued together and fully assembled with a hardwood face frame, I'm saying building your own cabinets is the way to go!

Special Thanks to PureBond

Special thanks to PureBond for providing the Formaldehyde Free Plywood for these cabinets. Not only is Mom getting beautiful cabinets, but also healthy green ones! For the month of January 2012, PureBond is giving away a $100 Home Depot gift card EVERY SINGLE DAY of the workweek to help you get started on your projects!  It's easy to enter - all the details are here.

Shallower and Taller?

I have been waiting for you to post plans!! THANK YOU! I want to use your plans to build built-ins to flank our fire place. I don't want the cabinets to be quite as deep as kitchen cabinets though. I want them closer to the depth of a wall cabinet and I also want them a bit taller too. Around 39inches tall.

I am going to keep waiting to see how your "buffet" cabinets measure before starting on our cabinets.

Can't wait to see how the kitchens come together.

You and your family continue to inspire me!

posted by MegShannon (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-01-04 17:36
Ana White's picture

Hi Meg, thank you for

Hi Meg, thank you for waiting! You can easily just use not so wide width plywood - say 15 3/4" to conserve plywood - and this exact plan. But if you can wait, we'll be working on the "buffet" in the next bit. Thank you again for reading and waiting on us.

posted by Ana White | on Wed, 2012-01-04 18:35

Of course we waited!

There are very few rooms left in our house without at least one Ana White piece of furniture. You have changed the way my husband and I look at furniture. It is such an incredible gift you are giving people. I have quality, sturdy and beautiful furniture in my home and my husband and I built it! Our favorite pieces in our home are pieces we built ourselves. And our kids favorite furniture are designs of your too!

posted by Meg Shannon (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-01-04 21:20

So exciting!!!

So exciting!!!

posted by Laura Fama | on Wed, 2012-01-04 17:44
annalea's picture

Can you say: happy dance?

Shuckin' and a jivin' at the keyboard. :o) This is perfect!

I don't see a "Add to my To Do List" button at the bottom of the post. This is one that I REALLY want to save there. Thanks!

It is not necessary to change. Survival is not mandatory. -- W. Edwards Deming

posted by annalea | on Wed, 2012-01-04 17:59
Ana White's picture

Thank you for supporting us

Thank you for supporting us and waiting on us! I can't wait to see your kitchen. We'll be adding a Kitchen Cabinet Plan Catalog with models too with for sure a to do list there!

posted by Ana White | on Wed, 2012-01-04 18:36

Building your own cabinet's is all the rage!

My Husband just finished building all our kitchen cabinets and they are so beautiful and the quality is amazing, and best of all they were built specifically for the space. There is something so amazing about building your own - or your mom's - kitchen!

posted by Jen Allyson (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-01-04 18:21

Thank you!!!

This is awesome, my husband and I are getting started on ours right away!

posted by Heather I. (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-01-04 19:02
birdsandsoap's picture

I can't wait for the next

I can't wait for the next installment. DRAWERS! I'm planning on a wall unit for our tiny master bedroom. Limited closet space has got me thinking that drawers, cabinets, and a couple of towers will give us a nice storage/media area. I'm thinking your cabinets with a slide out hidden toe kick (with the fancy scrollwork like you plan on the buffet) would make it look more dresser-y and suit our needs.

Thanks for all of your hard work!

posted by birdsandsoap | on Wed, 2012-01-04 19:42

So Thankful . .

We are planning on building a new home this year (not quite as literally as you are!) and I intend to do much of the finish carpentry myself. I have been debating building the kitchen cabinets myself and with each of these posts, you are pushing me closer and closer to "doing it" and farther and farther from "thinking about it". Thank you!

posted by ChantelleJ (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-01-04 21:37

Size of Kitchen?

Could you tell me the measurements of your kitchen? I know youʻve mentioned the square footage, but if you know off hand could you give the length and width?
Thanks! Keep up the great work!

posted by Maria in Maui | on Wed, 2012-01-04 21:37
birdsandsoap's picture

I believe it is a ten by ten

I believe it is a ten by ten space, just under a hundred square feet. Ana mentions it a couple of posts back when she was talking pantries.

posted by birdsandsoap | on Thu, 2012-01-05 22:51

very exciting!

I've been hemming and hawing about replacing my ancient kitchen cabinets for a while, and even the cheapest good quality options for replacements are not quite cheap enough for my liking. I'd been toying with the idea of building new ones myself, but this really gives me the confidence I needed to take that idea seriously. I am absolutely going to give it a try!

posted by dee | on Wed, 2012-01-04 21:52

Great timing!

This is perfect Ana! My husband and I are re-doing our kitchen within the next year and we'll be making our own cabinets. I've got him working on your cabin collection media center right now and these will be next for sure!

Thank you!!!

posted by Sarah @ Misadventures (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-01-04 21:55

Great timing!

This is perfect Ana! My husband and I are re-doing our kitchen within the next year and we'll be making our own cabinets. I've got him working on your cabin collection media center right now and these will be next for sure!

Thank you!!!

posted by Sarah @ Misadventures (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-01-04 21:55

Hi Ana! What type of wood are

Hi Ana!

What type of wood are you using for the face frame and carcass?

What cad program do you use for rendering the layout of the cabinets?

Great explanations!

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-01-04 23:05

This is great, Ana! So

This is great, Ana! So looking forward to seeing what other plans you come up with - I'd be really keen on some corner cabinet plans and a tall cabinet. I'd love to build my own kitchen cabinets for my dreadfully designed kitchen, I only wish I could buy that lovely looking plywood here in New Zealand!

posted by kahrani | on Thu, 2012-01-05 00:18

A great suggestion.

The one suggestion I would make to save you some time and effort is to skip the bases. Instead make one large base for each cluster of cabinets, this can be leveled quickly and easily, then attached to the floors / walls. This makes installing the cabinets a breeze!

I got this idea from "The Complete Kitchen Cabinetmaker: Shop Drawings and Professional Methods for Designing and Constructing Every Kind of Kitchen and Built-In Cabinet"


They also put the top braces going width ways across the cabinets to reduce racking of the box.

Tim Daniels

posted by Tim Daniels (not verified) | on Thu, 2012-01-05 08:13
claydowling's picture

CAD Program

The plans here all appear to be rendered in Google Sketchup. Don't get hung up on the software though. You could generate cabinet plans just as easily using pencil and paper, with a good scale rule. Honestly, cabinets are easy enough that you could sketch them on the back of a napkin and you'd be fine. A scale rule is good for more complex designs though where you might need to spot fit problems.

Of course, I took shop class before such as thing as CAD programs existed for mere mortals. My comfort level with a t-square and scale rule may be different than yours.

posted by claydowling | on Thu, 2012-01-05 09:12

It may not be intended this

It may not be intended this way, but your comment seems kinda rude. She gets "hung up", as you say, on the software because she is gracious enough to share her plans with all of us. How else is she going to do that with a piece of paper??? Thank you Ana for all the time you put into what you do, to benefit not only yourself, but all of us!

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Sat, 2012-01-07 07:17

Actually I believe clay was

Actually I believe clay was responding to someone's question a few posts earlier as to what program Ana is using.
I read his comment as "don't get too worried trying to learn the software instead of making your design". And I believe that's how it's meant since software programs can have a learning curve that can turn some people off from furniture design. Plus, there are a lot of programs out there so if you don't like Sketchup maybe try something else and don't get "hungup" on the that specific program.(I personally use 3d studio max which is an even beefier and therefore scarier program). I find Clay is very friendly and very helpful on this forum.

Anyway, my point is, if someone is just trying to start out with 3d software and you're not "getting it" right away, there's nothing wrong with sketching it on paper.

posted by Polysoup | on Sat, 2012-01-07 20:18

I don't think it was meant

I don't think it was meant the way you took it. I have looked at Google Sketchup and it can be a bit intimidating. I think he/she was trying to tell the person that if the drawings can be done on anything, whatever you may be comfortable with. Don't let the lack of understanding a computer program stop you from designing and making your own version.

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Sat, 2012-01-07 20:26
claydowling's picture

Contextual failure

My apologies, when I wrote that reply I ailed to properly associate it with the original message. And thanks to those of you who made it clear what I was trying to say.

I work with computers all day as a programmer, and woodworking is my escape from that world. Sketchup is actually an excellent program, and I've used it, but not taken the time to master it the way Ana has done. On those rare occasions when I need a plan, my limited drafting skills have sufficed.

Honestly, I try to use numerical measurements as little as possible, because converting a measurement to a number introduced inaccuracy. I recently built a desk with two drawers using my tape measure or a ruler only five times, and I really should have limited it to three, because numerical measurements for drawer parts invites disaster (I was lucky). I will someday build one of these desks without any numerical measurements.

posted by claydowling | on Sun, 2012-01-08 10:20

Kreg Jig plans around here somewhere..

Good Work Ana!

There are Kreg Jig cabinet plans floating around on their website somewhere. I have a PDF that gives a detailed walk-through on uppers and lowers, but I can't find the URL anywhere...

As for cutting plywood straight, you could always make use of a board clamped down as an edge guide for a circular saw. Might be a better option then wrestling with it on a table saw.

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Thu, 2012-01-05 09:38

I never found the book on

I never found the book on their website but I emailed them and they replied with the book attached as a PDF. It is called "Basic Cabinetmaking" by Mark Duginske.

posted by Rick (not verified) | on Thu, 2012-01-05 17:32

Thanks Ana! I'm remembering

Thanks Ana! I'm remembering your bath vanity that you retooled to make a roll out step stool for Grace. Could you do the same thing in the kitchen by reconfiguring the Cabinet Base? That would be really cool....one thing that drives me crazy is always tripping over my children's step stools.

posted by Sunny (not verified) | on Thu, 2012-01-05 16:18

I was thinking about that

I was thinking about that too! Or I've seen something (either on here or elsewhere)to make it a drawer for storing cookie sheet, cutting boards, etc.

posted by Sara (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-01-06 17:53

Pocket Holes

I like your design. I am hoping to build some cabinets for my basement when I get the time. Is there a reason you put the pocket holes to attach the face frame on the inside of the cabinet? If they were on the outside, wouldn't they be hidden by the adjacent cabinets or the 1/4" panel for the end cabinet?

posted by Rick (not verified) | on Thu, 2012-01-05 17:29

Melamine vs. Plywood?

Just curious if you considered using melamine? In Canada (BC), I don't think I've actually seen new kitchen cabinets built out of plywood. And it's not like we have a shortage of wood here! Maybe on fancy dining-room cabinets where you see the back and sides. Good quality melamine (not the cheap thin stuff) seems to have won out here. I'm an interior designer, so I see a lot of kitchens.

Even high-end custom cabinet makers usually choose melamine interiors for cost and maintenance. They add wood doors and end panels to cover the melamine. Of course, face-frame cabinetry is pretty much non-existent here as well.

If the answer is the Pure Bond is providing the plywood, that's a pretty good one!

But here, good quality melamine is usually around the same price as similar thickness plywood, and you don't have to finish it - just use tape on the edges.

posted by Ginna (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-01-06 11:57
Ana White's picture

Hi Ginna, thank you for such

Hi Ginna, thank you for such a great comment!

The melamine that we have up here is simply particle board with laminated veneer over it. From my experience, moisture destroys particle board so fast, and it's very difficult to work with it, and contains formaldehyde. Maybe you get better quality melamine in Canada?

Another concern is we want to cast in place concrete counter tops, which are very very heavy. 3/4" plywood tends to be the gold standard for supporting heavy weight countertops like concrete or granite.

An alternative is to use prefinished plywood (will be using PureBond in prefinished maple for the second kitchen for the carcasses) which is basically 3/4" plywood that comes fully finished and smooth.

As for Face Frames, I am such a huge fan of them. They finish your front edges and provide huge support to the face of your cabinets. And you can make them in hardwood, so they will take much more abuse than a raw pressed wood edge. Also, by overextending the face frame from the box, you get a little wiggle room just incase your walls or materials aren't as straight as you'd like them to be. But of course, you can build without for euro style and save money, and make installing drawers and doors much easier.

I'd love to hear other's thoughts on this! And of course, if you prefer melamine or any other sheet goods, you can use this plan to build with!

posted by Ana White | on Fri, 2012-01-06 14:43

Concrete Counter Tops

So glad to hear that you will be doing cast in place concrete for the coounter tops. I've been thinking about them for a while and can't wait to read about your experiences actually doing them.

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-01-06 18:51
tracysmith's picture


On those face frames, what type of wood are you using? THanks a bunch for posting and answering questions, sure helps us out!


posted by tracysmith | on Sat, 2012-01-07 09:41
Ana White's picture

Hi Tracy, the face frame you

Hi Tracy, the face frame you see for the drawer base is poplar. But for the face frames with doors, we will use oak or maple. Of course, this kitchen is being painted, so we can use different types of wood. The reason we will use oak or maple on the face frames with doors is because those face frames support the door hinges, and we want to use a "harder" wood to hold up the hinges over years and years of use. Make sense?

posted by Ana White | on Sat, 2012-01-07 14:10


Teeeeechnically, it's "carcase" when referring to the cabinet box, not "carcass". Though it is pronounced the same. No idea why the spelling difference (probably an English (UK)/early-American thing that's lived into this century?). Regardless, thanks for the clear descriptions and great renderings!

posted by ElectroVoice (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-01-06 19:11


Hi Anna. I heard you guys are getting hit pretty hard this winter and I just wanted to say I hope you and your family are all safe and warm. I was wondering how the momplex will fair being open to the elements. Will you have a lot of digging out to do come the spring?

I also wanted to thank you for your confidence. Because of you and your site I built my first piece a couple months ago to surprise my boyfriend. (Its not perfect but I'm so proud of it.) Now we're planing all sorts of projects to fill our new house.

posted by AmandaB (not verified) | on Tue, 2012-01-10 10:12


It's -40 and getting colder time to finish up them cabinets in the warm shop!

posted by Grampa (not verified) | on Sun, 2012-01-15 21:30
Guerrina's picture

Hope All Is Well

I've checked in often since this post and hope all of you are well & busy building cabinets! With the news of the tremendous amounts of snow that parts of Alaska have been enduring, I just wanted to check on you!



posted by Guerrina | on Mon, 2012-01-16 22:07

It may have been touched on

It may have been touched on earlier and I might have missed it but wanted to make a note about your pocket holes on the insides of your cabinet sides that attach the face frame. If you wanted these hidden you could simply put the pocket holes on the outsides of the sides and you would still be able to attach the face frame. Just a thought. Thank you for the detailed overview.

posted by Randy W (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-01-18 18:03
YankeeBelle's picture

I'm in Complete Awe!

Ana, I am in awe. I just found your website after searching for internet help on kitchen building! I've never built anything myself. My husband thinks I'm nuts because I've been saying for 2 years (since we bought our fixer-upper farmhouse) that I think we should build our own cabinets! The cheapo ones in my house look like they've been assembled by a toddler....I knew I could do better than that. Now, seeing your site and all of your beautiful projects and your generosity in plan sharing...I KNOW we can do it. I showed my husband and he is willing. Now I don't have to pay big bucks (that I don't have) for a custom 13" depth pantry cabinet....I'll just MAKE it! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
I was looking at pocket hole jigs....they range from $39 - $149....what do you think is required for the pocket holes?
Also, how far back from the edge of the wood do you start them? THANKS!!

posted by YankeeBelle | on Tue, 2012-01-24 20:16

I found an excellent blog,

I found an excellent blog, many good ideas, I personally use melamine boards, to make my DIY jobs, goods ready to assemble and does not apply any paint, protect the edges and assemble it.
Diagrams melamine kitchen cabinets to put together that can help us to make our furniture I found here.

posted by Guille (not verified) | on Mon, 2012-01-30 02:52

Diagrams melamine kitchen

Diagrams melamine kitchen cabinets to put together that can help us to make our furniture I found here.

posted by Guille (not verified) | on Mon, 2012-01-30 02:58
orangesugar's picture


I'm definitely curious to see your plans when it comes time to add drawers. I am super envious of people that have 36" bases with drawers for their pots and pans. Not sure what materials and slides would be required to support a bunch of heavy pans though.

posted by orangesugar | on Tue, 2012-01-31 18:24

Build drawers in the base of the cabinet

I built drawers in the base of my cabinet. I don't mean just drawers in the base cabinet for pots and pans. I mean a drawer in the base Ana made with 2x4s. If you make the base a single structure that all the cabinets sit on top of (like someone else suggested) you can make the slide-out drawers whatever width you need them to be. I have one under my island cabinet where I store my electric griddle. It's only a few inches tall but it's still space that's wasted in most kitchen and it's a place where you can store casserole dishes, cookie sheets, lids to pans or to plastic containers. There are tons of things you could store in there and I'm glad I have reclaimed that space that I didn't even know I was missing!

posted by Eric Page (not verified) | on Tue, 2012-02-14 02:31

Drawers in the Base of the Cabinet


I am interested in the idea of draws in the cabinet base. Can you explain this a little more? Do the drawers slide right on the floor? Do you use drawer slides? Do you box out the drawer within the base?

Family Handiman had this suggestion maybe a year ago I think.

Thanks in advance!


posted by katieevans140@gmail.com (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-03-02 19:16


I used full extension drawer slides and the drawer hovers just far enough above the floor that it doesn't catch an anything. I just looked up the Family Handyman article you mentioned and found they used the term "toe-kick rollout". I Googled that to see if I could find anything else and found this picture that should give you a pretty good idea of what it is. http://www.diamondatlowes.com/Admin/DiamondAtLowes/Organization/Base%20C...

posted by Eric Page (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-03-14 07:08

connecting face frame

I am in the process of building a set of these cabinets, and my question is, when i connect the face frame, do you end up with a half inch drop from the top of bottom rail and the floor or base of cabinet?, I just want to make sure I am doing it right, thanks

posted by pjhisted | on Sun, 2012-02-26 11:42

Confused Over Townhouse Concept

Can someone help me understand.... Doesn't the townhouse concept contradict the box construction concept? So only build cabinets the townhouse way if you have square flat walls? I have a house built in 1934 but maybe it would be okay to build townhouse style if I'm only looking at a total length of 47"?

Thanks for any input you might have.


posted by katieevans140@gmail.com (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-03-02 19:23

Side sizing

My hubby and I are in the planning stages of building our own cabinets, thanks to your plans. I just have a question about the side panels. If my depth is 24" and I am using 1/4" plywood for the back and my face frame is 3/4", how is it the sides are 22 3/4"? Wouldn't that make my depth only 23 3/4" overall or am I missing something here?

posted by Guest (not verified) | on Wed, 2012-03-14 10:23

wondering the same thing...

I can't seem to view any replies to comments. Could someone help me out finding the answer to this same question regarding the cabinet depth?


posted by ssrhb5 | on Sun, 2014-03-02 16:52

steel section sheds

hi just tell me what size you require please email me
c d

posted by craigdattons (not verified) | on Fri, 2012-04-06 05:13

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