There's been quite a few awkward moments of me peeking inside kitchen cabinets to get to this point. And I'm not interested in what type of peanut butter my friends like, or how they store their canned goods.
- Cabinet Base - raises the cabinet up for a toekick and elevates bottom shelf. On our cabinets, the base is separate and can be swapped out for store bought leg levelers. Once all cabinets are installed, a toekick is installed over all the bases.
- Carcass or Box - the carcass or box is simply the plywood structure of the cabinet.
- Supports - the supports are made from scrap plywood from the carcasses and are used for supporting and attaching the top and back.
- Face Frame - Face frames add support and finish front plywood edges.
- Back - for these cabinet plans, we just use 1/4" plywood on the back. You can also use 1/2", or even 1/2" inset, but the 1/4" is more than enough support on these cabinets.
<h1>Townhouse Style</h1><div>If you had to build a row of houses, all side by side, would you build ten houses and stack them next to each other? Or would they share walls like townhouses do? And foundations? </div><div><br></div>Having a base allows you to fully support the cabinets, and enables you to easily build multiple cabinets in one. Let's say you have a row of cabinets, with no appliance interruptions. You could build just one long cabinet, with dividers, and place on the same base.<div><br></div><div>Reason why you can't just build two ends with a toekick notched out, and divide up? there's no support in the center. Sorry, we don't build saggy cabinets. Keep the cabinets less than 36" between dividers to minimize sagging.<br><div><br></div><div>Saves time, saves materials.
Note of caution - if you are using full overlay doors, you'll need to do some figuring on how the doors overlay face frames, most likely using 1 1/4" overlay hinges on ends and 1/2" overlay hinges on center cabinets.</div></div>
</h1><div>We've really given a ton of thought on how to easily and precisely cut your plywood pieces. You will want to rip your plywood into strips 22 3/4" wide for face frames with 1/4" backs. This way, your plywood grain is always in the right direction and the widths are always the same. Save the center scrap piece to use for supports. It's not waste.</div><div><br></div><div>Also, using this method, you can rent a tablesaw and make all your cuts in just a few hours. Or even ask the home improvement store to make cuts if you can trust their track saw.</div>