Using briwax instead of poly

I'm staining the top of a desk and just want it to look as it does now (raw/natural), but when I put the clear coat on there it turns the pine yellow. Yuk. My Aunt remodeled last year and put in real wood floors, she recommended this product: http://www.bona.com/en-US/United-States1/BonaSystem/Coatings/Finishes/B…

But at $140 per gallon that is more then I can spend. I only need to cover a 30 inch by 40 inch space. If it were a nice kitchen table I would go for the $140 bona naturale so it would last and last.

There was an interesting article about using wax just last week that might be useful for you.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/my-introduction-…

I had never really considered was as the entire finish, but the technique shown in the video looked amazing. Fast to apply and a great final look.

I use Briwax a lot. It is a great finish! You can get it in different colors depending on the effect you want. I like to distress a piece and then brush Bri Wax all over it and then buff like crazy. It gives it a really nice shine. (works your arm muscles though! haha)

I also have used it on several wood pieces from Goodwill like trays and bowls that were a little scratched or worn on the edges and after rubbing Briwax on with soft cloth, especially in the worn areas and then buffing, they look like new.

It is shiny and waxy enough that I think it would offer some protection from spills. You would probably have to reapply from time to time just like a paste wax.

Best thing to do is get a can and play with it. I put it over painted furniture and buff for a old look.

For a non-shiny look, I use a coat of tung oil, followed by a coat of clear briwax. Nice low sheen, and liquids DO bead up on the surface. I would be sure to keep paper towels handy around stuff like red wine, but smaller scuffs/stains would just add to an overall patinated look, I would think. Eventually, I might make a zinc top for mine..