2 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
1 – 10” 5/8” bolt with nut and four washers
1 – 1x8 @ 3 feet long
1 – 24” 1” dowel or closet rod
2 – 2x4 @ 96”
2 – 2x6 @ 24” (uprights)
2 – 2x6 @ 36” (long base)
2 – 2x4 @ 24” (short base - both ends cut at 30 degrees off square ends NOT parallel to each other)
2 – 2x6 @ 12” (scrap piece can be shorter than 12” – used for handle)
FROM EACH 2x6 cut one each of the 24”, 36”, 24” and 12” to conserve boards
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Attach long base supports to uprights with lots of screws and glue.
Then add the side supports again with lots of screws and glue.
Make a teeter totter for less than $20! Free easy seesaw plans from Ana White!
Build the seat part by sandwiching the handle supports between 8 foot long 2x4s and attaching with glue and lots of screws.
Drill a 5/8" hole in center of 2x4s for the pivot bolt.
I used scrap 1x8 boards for the seats, covered in a foam chair pad cut in half and outdoor fabric.
I drilled three holes in the uprights with 5/8" bit so the seesaw could be adjustable. The most difficult part of this seesaw was getting the bolt holes lined up. We ended up just making the bolt holes a little larger so the bolts could pass through easier. On the bolt, we put washers on each side of the uprights to protect the finish and for a smoother ride.
For the handles, we had extra closet rod dowel, so we just cut to size, and drilled a hole and inserted the rod. We then glued and screwed in place.