Clubhouse Bed

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Clubhouse Bed

Build a clubhouse bed! Free plans from ana-white.com

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

Do NOT be like me.

Last winter, stuck inside for months and months while we waited for the sun to return to Alaska, Grace and I were really missing her original playhouse bed.

Now that I blog, our spare bedroom has turned into my office slash room of shame and the only place we have for guests to sleep is Grace's bed.  A couple of years ago we decided NOT to force our guests to sleep up in Grace's playhouse bed and replaced it with the Hailey storage bed.

All has been good, and it's great having somewhere for guests to stay.

But then last winter, Grace saw the Eli Fort Bed in Pottery Barn Kid's catalog and asked if we could build it for her.

I drew the plans up.

And they sat on my computer for months.  

And months.

When my dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter wrote me saying it was her Buddy Boy's turn to get a new bed and, I knew Jaime would get the bed done and posted and shared.

We worked on refining the plans, and you will thank Jaime when you build this bed for her brilliant suggestion to sister up 2x4 legs for added strength.  This also allows for the bed to be assembled in easy pieces.

One week later, the clubhouse bed is done.

Be like Jaime.

DIY this bed today.

Your kids are growing every day, and one sad sad day, they won't want a clubhouse bed anymore  :(

Well, if I haven't lost you already - no offense taken - Jaime really built an amazing bed! - I have one request: Please stop over and read all the details from Jaime on how she built this bed.

Jaime added a fort area underneath.  She sewed those cute curtains!  You can check out the details here.

And she made this surfboard sign too!  Check out her tutorial here.

And she added window grids that hinge open!  You can get the instructions on making these window grids here.

So PIN THIS project right now to your DIY board and make it happen!

And of course the plans follow!  Thank you Jaime!

Shopping List: 

2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
8 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
5 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
15 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 ¼ and 2 ½ PH screws
1 1/4 finish nails
Wood glue
3” screws or bolts for assembly
2” screws for slats
Slats (7 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long)

NOTE: Jaime recommends the following changes to the shopping list because her 1x6 board ran a little wide on the front and she wanted gaps between the wood slats.

- add 2 - 1x5 @ 8'
- decrease 1x6 quantity to 14

General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Cut List: 

NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x6 boards are less than 5 1/2" wide. Jaime found that she needed to substitute two of the 1x6 boards on front and back for 1x5 boards to create gaps between the wood slats.

SIDE WALLS (BUILD 2)
4 – 2x2 @ 36”
14 – 1x3 @ 25 ½”
4 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 2x4 @ 17” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel)
2 – 1x4 @ 43 ½”

BACK WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x5 (Jaime recommends using the 1x5s here instead of 1x6) @ 40 3/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 43 1/2” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 46 3/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 53 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x6 @ 54 1/2” (top end cut to dogeared point 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x2 @ 71”(slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)

FRONT WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 40 3/8” (Jaime recommends swapping these out for the 1x5 boards) (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 13 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 17 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x6 @ 17 5/8” (under windows)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 16” (doorway)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x2 @ 13” (window trim - recommend cutting to fit)
1 – 1x2 @ 71” (slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
- add 2 - 1x2 @ 14.5" (lower window trim interior - add to inside of windows)

LADDER
2 – 1x6 @ 38” (both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel)
3 – 1x6 @ 14 ½”
1 – 1x4 @ 14 ½”

SLATS
Recommend cutting 1x3 @ 40 1/2” long

Step 1: 

Build the walls with 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws. Use scrap 1x3 to help with spacing. Fill upper holes with either PH plugs or wood filler.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Now add the legs.

Step 3 Instructions: 

And then add the cross supports. Jaime used 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs to attach.

Step 4 Instructions: 

And the trim to the base.

NOTE: Attach 34” up NOT 34 ¼”

Step 5 Instructions: 

Build your back wall. I suggest leaving gaps between the wood boards to get that "clubhousey" look but you could also PH them together. Up to you! Either way, I'd recommend laying out all the boards first and going from there.

NOTES FROM JAIME: as in plans 13 slats @ 5 1/2" = 78.5" which is 1/2" too much width, change out 40 3/8" slats to 1x5 which allows for 1/8" spacing between slats (these changes have been made in the cut and shopping list above)
- PH screws first slat (37 1/4") to legs, then use 1x4 @78" trim piece and screw slats to trim from inside, then same at top angled trim pieces

Step 6 Instructions: 

Attach top and bottom trim.

Step 7 Instructions: 

This is for the slat system. You can use a 2x2 here too.

Step 8 Instructions: 

And the cross supports.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Lay out your front wall as you did the back wall.

Step 10 Instructions: 

And add the trim.

Step 11: 

I'd cut the window trim a little long here.

NOTES FROM JAIME:
screw on front trim from inside then screw added interior window trim from inside from strength (my kids will definitely lean on this sill and without any side support in the slats I needed to add the extra longer interior trim piece).
- I also added a short 1x2 @ 4" piece across the top point on the interior to hold the joint where the angled trim pieces meet, not to mention it provides a sturdy hook for decor.

Step 12: 

And the bottom supports and cross supports.

Step 13: 

Now move the pieces into the room. For the large walls, try going in upside down, and getting one leg through at a time.

NOTES FROM JAIME: I used 3/8" lag bolts @ 3 1/2" in 3 spots on each leg

Step 14: 

Add the slats or bunkie board or box spring.

Step 15: 

And then build your ladder and attach.

NOTES FROM JAIME: gap between rungs is 8", attached with 2 - 3/8" carriage bolts @ 3"

Step 16: 

For the window grid tutorial and lots other tips and construction photos please read Jaime's build post here.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

A huge thank you to Ana for drawing up these plans. It was truly the most fun to build, and I would do it again in a heartbeat! Your kids will thank you (later of course!).

If we have a heavy sleeper on a school day, or perhaps even sick kid, a parent might have to fit through that door, and 16" isn't very wide ( at least its narrow for me). I may need adjust the width and placement of the door to keep it safe, yet accessible for an adult. Maybe even a half door or gate for the little guy?

Awesome plans Ana! What a super cool bed! Jaime you did an amazing job. Love the chevron curtains and all the special little touches like the windows!

Awesome build and plans. You guys are a great team. This is adorable! What lucky blessed you all have!

What was the overall cost of this project? My son NEEDS a bed like this, but we havent gotten around to it yet. What a fantastic plan, fantastic build!!!

Monique the cost for lumber was about $200 using furring strips for the mattress slats. Add hardware, poly, sandpaper, etc. and probably close to $300. Good luck, you're son will love it!

I just started working on this project. My boys love the idea and want one for each of them so if it goes well I will probably be building 2. I have found one error in the shopping list however. To give you 7 slats on the side and meet the measurements given you will need 5 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long. Hope this helps any others who start til build this project as well. I hope to post pictures as I complete the project. Thanks for your great plans.

Thanks Anthony for noting the shopping list error. It's so helpful to have others do the build and make it work better for everyone. You are correct in that you will need a total of 5 - 1x3x8 boards. Good luck with the build and please submit any other notes you come across.

Do you need seven 1x4x8 boards (instead of 5)? The shopping list only says 5, but I can't figure out how that works. The two side walls take up a total of one 1x4; the back wall needs one 78" 1x4, and two 49" 1x4s, for a total of three; and the front wall needs the same, for another three boards. That's 7 1x4s. Should the 49" boards actually be 48"? An 8-ft. long board would give us two 48" boards. Thanks for your help, these plans are fantastic.

Dan

My daughter wants us to build this for her but she has a full bed instead of a twin. Any help?

I will use this as inspiration for my vision. I want to build my two boys an indoor playhouse. I will just take out the bed. Add a slide and a short climbing wall somewhere.
Does anyone know where I can find good plans for building a slide???

I would just try finding a used one from an outdoor set. I prefer the plastic rounded edge(less injuries). I see a lot of them on our local sell lists. And I think you could get a paint for the plastic if you wanted it in a different color.

I would have loved to make this for my 5 year old son. He became excited when he saw it. However, I can not download the PDF file, because it is missing. Is it possible to re-link the file, or email it to me?

Thank you!

I thought I'd try again.. I'm stubborn!.. haha! Before it was telling me that the page I was looking for was gone. But now it's there.. must have been a hiccup in the system! Should take the time to say thanks too for such a great site.. and the dent this site is removing from my wallet!

Thanks a million! ^_^

I would be VERY interested to see what the modifications would be for a queen bed also. My son's 5th birthday is next week and was thinking about having this made for him, but he's got a queen size bed...hmmm....

I'm new to all of this. I just discovered Ana's site late last night (via "Shanty2chic") and feel so inspired from your work. Everything you do looks so gorgous! I'll get to my point... I have a 3 bedroom house and would like to keep a nursery/guestroom for one of my rooms (I have 4 small kids) so this means I need to put 3 kids in one room. I love this CLubhouse bed-saw it in Potterybarn, but I can't swing the empty space (I need 3 beds). I have been in love with this bed of PBarns - the "speedboat II" - do you think making this bed is possible. Would you every make "plans" for it in the future??? Thanks for inspiring me so much. Good luck with your momplex!

Do you have high ceilings? Making it higher and putting a single with trundle under it would look nice. And the kids could rotate so there would be less fighting.

Ana - Do you use Google Sketch-Up for your CAD designs? Just wondering. I've been using SketchUp to design and build my woodworking projects for a few years now - latest projects, just built a mission-style sewing corner desk for my wife, and a set of beadboard-inspired bunkbeds for the kids.... anyway, just stumbled across your site, thanks for the good ideas! I think I'm going to make your cube bookcase....

Just wanted to say thx for the plans! in the process of the build now. I have adjusted them to a larger scale and using it for an outside play house. Added a slide n a few other surprises. Hope to have it complete in the next couple weeks.

When I look at the picture of your finished bed, the peak of the clubhouse is right at the ceiling. Your plans, however, show 34" from the slats to the floor. That is pretty darn low to the ground. My husband has made the two sides and the back of the clubhouse so far and his measurements are spot on. However, ours looks considerably lower to the ground than yours. We have average ceiling heights. The peak of the clubhouse will not be near the ceiling. I was hoping to put a twin bed under it...I'm a little bummed that we can't.

When I look at the picture of your finished bed, the peak of the clubhouse is right at the ceiling. Your plans, however, show 34" from the slats to the floor. That is pretty darn low to the ground. My husband has made the two sides and the back of the clubhouse so far and his measurements are spot on. However, ours looks considerably lower to the ground than yours. We have average ceiling heights. The peak of the clubhouse will not be near the ceiling. I was hoping to put a twin bed under it...I'm a little bummed that we can't.

This may be a silly question, but how in the world do you make the bed? Access to the mattress seems quite limited. I really want to make one of these beds for my son as well, but I am worried about making things difficult for my wife when she changes the sheets.

i love this clubhouse , was wondering if you could share how to modify it to turn it into bunk bed sleeping two persons one up and one down . thanks in advance . viv

I love this but am thinking about modifying to look like a barn with barn angles on the peaks and room for another twin on the floor underneath. Maybe with walls on the sides and a sliding barn door for the front bottom. I was also thinking about a ladder on the side and a slide in the front where the ladder is. Then it would match Ana's new barn shaped bookcase and soon to come barn doll house. I have a 4 year old girl and a 1 year old boy sharing a room and they love barns and farm animals. Any suggestions? or a plan to modify this Ana?

In Step 6, the width of the bed is shown as 78 inches on the outside including legs. In the next step, step 7, the width of the bed is shown as 71 inches on the inside excluding legs. Given that the legs are made of 2x4s, this doesn't add up. Either the inner width should be 70" (78 - 4 - 4) or the outer width should be 79" (71 + 4 + 4). Which one is it?

We decided to build this a bit bigger and taller. I will caution you to be careful as we came inches to not making it through our doorways. We expanded the depth 15" to make it a full bed and we extended the length of the legs to allow for 48" clearance underneath.

We also went with a rock wall instead of a ladder. I 1st built the angle too steep; recommend at least a 30 degree angle on a wall. Kid's love it; mom not so much when attempting to make the bed! :)

We went with military theme - green rope lights, camo netting for a roof, and sandbags filled with old clothes from my high school years for a bunker underneath.

Great project! Thanks for the idea!

I bought my lumber from Home Depot. The boos for both sides look like they are ruff cut. Did you sand each cut piece before attaching sides together? Also, where were the slats attached? Was it in the center of the 2x2, front, or back?

Was a 50 pack of  2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws enough or should I get 2 or 3 or more packs?

How Much wood filler should I purchase? Quart? Pint? ½ pint?

And I was wondering about how much stain would I need? Or if I go with paint, how much paint would I need?

~ Veronica M. :0)

I have noticed that pretty much everyone has carpet.|
But I do not. We have Hard Ceramic Tiles throughout the whole Appartment.|
I was wondering if this type of bed would be safe (or what ever) on hard ceramic tile floors?|
I'm thinking of putting carpet just under the area under it. Would this be wise? or no?

I would most likely just buy some low-cost carpet from Home Depot from the rolls they have there. If i should do this will i need to also purchase something else to put between the carpet and tile?
or would maybe just a throw rug for my boys comfort but not under the legs of the bed be good?
i'm goign to use Bolts to attach all four sides together and i'm goign to change the size of the side pieces to fit two crib/todler matresses long ways [ i guess you would say]. And ofcorse change the slats a bit in that 16 inch opening which will now be the space between the boys matresses and undewr there mattresses put some thin plywood or something to keep the mattresses from falling through the slat openings.

Also I will be raising the space under the bunk area up 8 to 12 inches and reducing the upper Club house area about the same amount.

But also will be adding 3 boards on each side and back legs about lower to mid way up for a bit more sturdiness and Also addign a attached book case/ toy storage shelf across one side under the bunk part.

I had a great idea [well i think so] to have the forward facing side of the book shelf be a Surfboard Cut out. And to make it a Little Batman & Spiderman theme I would Paint the top half of the Surfbioard Book Shelf Side Blatman Logo and the Bottom Spiderman Logo for the Boys. Can't afford nor have the room for 2 beds ( hehehehehehe) So i'm praying this is Do able for the Boys to not only think i'm the coolest Mom Ever but to also have thigns neater and more space from my two little Monkey Butts?

So what do ya'll think? The Book Shelf on the side that will be close to the  wall and every thing will ti be good and ok on Hard ceramic flooring? 

Thank You inadvance for any help ya'll can give me.

~ Veronica M. :0)