Rustic X Console

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Rustic X Console

Build a rustic X console! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com!

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

Hi everyone!

Did you have a good weekend?

I can't tell you more about my weekend just yet other than the fact that I'm pretty darn sore. A DIY life sure keeps you in shape, doesn't it?

I'll give you a hint - it has to do with 2x4s.

Lots of 2x4s.

Speaking of 2x4s - aren't they awesome????  So sturdy and strong and cheap, and for today's plan, beautiful!

Yep, those are 2x4 legs!!!!

My friend Hillary from The Friendly Home has been asking for plans for a substantially sized X Console like this one from another friend of mine's home - Kate from Centsational Girl:

Hillary and I worked really hard on this design to get it JUST right.  She wanted something a little more rustic, and I had received numerous other plan requests for an X console inspired by Pottery Barn's Belmont Buffet.  

And this is what we came up with!  Now I say we as in I just drew a plan up.  Hillary took a simple plan made up of 2x4s, 2x2s, 2x6s and 1x12s and turned it into a heirloom piece filled with heirlooms.

Like the beautiful handmade console, each of those quilts has a story too.  I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!

Shopping List: 

6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
Corner hardware/decorative bolts
1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
2 1/2" screws

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above.
Cut List: 

12 – 2x2 @ 30”
6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"

Cutting Instructions: 
NOTE: If your saw does not cut 60 degrees off square, you will need to mark cuts with an angle square or compass/protractor and cut angles with circular saw or jigsaw. Practice this cut first on scraps!
Step 1: 

First build two frames as shown in diagram.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" PHs with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" PH screws later on.

Step 3 Instructions: 

2x4 supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs.

Step 4 Instructions: 

And then just trim out sides of shelves.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Now the fun part. I recommend building the Xs first and fitting. Once built, you can simply glue in place or add a few nails. The Xs will add extra support, but are primarily decorative.

Step 6 Instructions: 

And then add the top! You can build top first with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you. TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" PH screw to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

Love this table, I had pinned Centsational Girl's table as well! Hillary you did a fab job! I think it has now been placed on my must build list! My hubby is going to think I'm crazy, because his concept of must have is too practical for me, ha!

How do you stain your wood like that? It looks like a natural wood pantina from ageing in the sun/rain.

I LOVE this table! I have a wall in my home that I've been looking for a console table for! One that is HALF this size would be perfect! I mean PERFECT!! Only one little problem...I STINK at math. How about plans for one that is half as wide. That would be awesome. Thanks

It's Iron Acetate ... otherwise known as "Steel wool dissolved in vinegar" and brushed on. And strong black tea. Followed by waxing, but you could use a wipe-on polyurethane if you wanted.

INGREDIENTS:
One "pillow" of extra-fine steel wool
1 Gallon of cheap white vinegar
A box of harsh, cheap black tea (maybe)

Shred the steel wool and stuff it into the vinegar jug. Leave the cap loose! Set it aside for several days, swirling it occasionally to check the progress. The bubbles are hydrogen gas. When the steel wool is gone, your stain is ready.

Check it on a scrap piece ... brush it on and it should turn greyish as it dries. If it's too dark, dilute the iron acetate with water 50:50 and test another scrap.

For a more intense grey, you need tannin. Brew up some really strong black tea (use a lot of bags and boil it till it's really undrinkably dark)

Brush the tea on and let it dry, then apply the iron acetate solution. If it's too dark, dilute the iron acetate with water 50:50 and test another scrap.

This is a great stain for blending repaired spots into a fence - load a garden sprayer with 50:50 iron acetate and water and spray the new wood.

I used organic tea because it was what I had on hand and let it steep for a few hours. Worked like a charm!

It's Iron Acetate ... otherwise known as "Steel wool dissolved in vinegar" and brushed on. And strong black tea. Followed by waxing, but you could use a wipe-on polyurethane if you wanted.

INGREDIENTS:
One "pillow" of extra-fine steel wool
1 Gallon of cheap white vinegar
A box of harsh, cheap black tea (maybe)

Shred the steel wool and stuff it into the vinegar jug. Leave the cap loose! Set it aside for several days, swirling it occasionally to check the progress. The bubbles are hydrogen gas. When the steel wool is gone, your stain is ready.

Check it on a scrap piece ... brush it on and it should turn greyish as it dries. If it's too dark, dilute the iron acetate with water 50:50 and test another scrap.

For a more intense grey, you need tannin. Brew up some really strong black tea (use a lot of bags and boil it till it's really undrinkably dark)

Brush the tea on and let it dry, then apply the iron acetate solution. If it's too dark, dilute the iron acetate with water 50:50 and test another scrap.

This is a great stain for blending repaired spots into a fence - load a garden sprayer with 50:50 iron acetate and water and spray the new wood.

I would type how much I love this table, but I'm feeling faint because my heart is pitter-pattering! ;-) /jk

Love it, love it, love it!

Ok, I am getting addicted to building things and these plans aren't helping!lol Thanks so much for all your awesomeness! This is great!

I LOVE this table!! But I want to upsize it like the from Pottery Barn and add the drawers.
Any ideas how to add the drawers? The unit has open sides. Would a drawer slide underneath the drawer work here? I have only used the side mounted drawer slides.

Hi, RBear. Yes, I looked at the inspiration piece assuming someone would want to make it with the drawers and so I've thought about it a bit. To build it like the inspiration piece you'd need to use undermount slides and attach them to the middle shelf so they wouldn't be visible from the sides. I did it on a big storage bench I made last year and it took a bit to figure out the drawers, but it wasn't rocket science. I actually used two center-mount slides per drawer and just lined them up so they were perfectly parallel, because the drawers were heavy. These drawers might be light enough for just one center-mount slide each. (http://thefriendlyhome.blogspot.com/2011/01/game-storagecheck.html) If I were doing drawers, I'd use 1x10s for the drawer body and face and place the middle shelf so that the clearance for the 1x10 drawer would be right. I think right now the space is 10 1/2" and the 1x10s would be 9 1/2" or 9 1/4" depending on what kind you use, so you'd need to move the bottom shelf up a hair to accommodate the drawers exactly.

Good luck!

Quick question.. did you use spruce on all the X projects? thanks ahead of time and everything you did looks great.

So, my mom comes over today and says she needs a new tv console and I pull up Ana's site to give her some ideas and voila, the answer is the very first thing she sees - this table! We're going to modify it a bit to fit her needs but as soon as I have this baby built, I'll post some pictures in a brag post! Thanks for posting the plans, she's gonna love this!!!!

I love this console table and I'm thinking it would be a great media console...I'll have to make some modifications to fit my living room though. But I also need a coffee table...any way you could do a coffe table plan? Pretty please! :)

I posted a questions to this thread, however, I'm not sure you see it unless I reply directly to your post. I'm just wondering exactly how many pocket hole screws are used on each trim section attaching to shelves, and their approx. placement on the piece. Thanks so much!

I really do play on making this, but first I'm going to try out the finish on the (modified) loft bed that's sitting in my "workshop" (read:kitchen, at least until we get the garage set up right) waiting for me to finish sanding it. I was wanting something more "rustic" like this to match the idea I have for my boys room - almost like they could have been stranded in some jungle somewhere and this is their tree fort. Or at least fort....the tree part is a lot more work, or takes wall painting by someone more artistic than I. Thanks, "Anonymous Coward" for posting the directions!

Thanks TracySmith. I use my Kreg Jig all the time. In fact I just finished the frame for a new gate and it was built with PH joints. I learn something new every day.

Jake

Showed this to my husband last night and he was as excited as I was . We have been looking for a console table and all I find are just not a good fit, but yours is perfect! Love your blog - the directions are great and we can't wait to get started!

Lots of compliments, too, but complements, first. Isn't there a way to cut the complement of the 60-degree angle? Maybe by cutting the board to the length it needs to be at the very point of the angled cut (the longest dimension), then turning the board 90-degrees and cutting a 30-degree angle? (90 - 60 = 30) That would create a 60-degree angle at the other end of the mitered cut. The sum of the angles of a triangle are always 180, and a mitered cut on the end of a board can be figured like a right triangle. 90 degrees is already taken for the right angle (which is a place you're not cutting), so the two angles left have to add up to 90.

I haven't run into the 50-degree limitation, so this is just a guess on a new way to use a saw . . .

But . . .

I do know, from sewing and paper piecing, that it's possible to turn and flip and do all kinds of crazy things with things you cut in order to get what you need at the end. ;o)

Hope this helps! (HTH!)

It is not necessary to change. Survival is not mandatory. -- W. Edwards Deming

This is a great piece, I dig the rustic style. I really like the decorative corner hardware and bolts. Any guide or suggestions on how to 'age' new hardware you can buy at home depot to get that weathered/old look? :)

The hardware I used was shiny new stuff from Lowe's. I just painted it with flat black spray paint. It would be fun to work with multiple coats of spray paint. Maybe some turquoise, some rust colored, with a little sanding to let the undercoat show. So many possibilities!

Love this piece. I too would need it to be a bit more shallow. I was wondering if you recall how much it cost to make this?

This is great! I'm definitely going to give this one a try. Would you recommend staining the wood pieces before assembling?

This is great! I'm definitely going to give this one a try. Would you recommend staining the wood pieces before assembling?

For this I think you're better off putting it together and then staining. You'll want to get the ends of the planked top sanded uniformly before staining, which is easier to do if you assemble first. Good luck!

Hi there! I'm so happy to have found your site. And I LOVE this table. It's going to go perfectly in my apartment. I just have a few very quick questions that i hope you can help me with. Please forgive my lack of proper terminology..I'm still learning.

1. Did you put PH in the aprons and 2x4's to attach the top? Or, did you just screw straight down through the legs and aprons? Any preference there?

2. Do you think that using a piece of plywood for the top with nosing around the edges could work for the top?

3. When you drill a pocket hole, do you have predrill the other piece as well?

Thank you so much for this site and for your time. :)

We're all still learning. There's nothing pretentious about Ana's site so you never have to be afraid to ask questions! That's what makes it so great.

Answers for you:
1. No. I turned the table upside down and drilled and screwed straight down through the aprons into the underside of the top. It's definitely the easiest way to do it. I can't remember whether I pre-drilled, but if you have a countersink bit (I do not) that might be the way to go. I think I just put a lot of weight into it and since the wood is relatively soft, the head of the screw buried itself. You could do pocket holes on the insides of the aprons instead

2. I suppose ply would work, but you'd lose the rustic-ness and character of the piece. If you are going for a more refined looking table, ply will be perfect.

3. No, don't pre-drill the other piece. The pocket hole screws (definitely use actual pocket hole screws) are made to be self-tapping so they don't split the wood on the other side. That's what makes pocket hole construction super easy for newbies like us. :)

After attempting to build this with my husband, we've run into a few problems. The 2x2's often split when we try to connect them to the 2x4's.. I'm not sure what we're missing here or what we're doing incorrectly.. My husband is an experienced builder, and even he can't figure out what's going on. We are using another brand of a pocket hole system.. Could that be it? Hope you can help..??

After this happened I did some research on the screws and I read an article that explained the difference between self-tapping and self-drilling screws.. Self-tapping screws are not meant for wood projects as they do not provide proper reinforcement. Were you perhaps just using that term interchangeably?

Link to Article: http://www.ehow.com/list_7574951_differences-between-selftapping-selfdri...

My wife has discovered your site, and I am so happy. Don't get me wrong, I like trying to figure out what she wants me to build from a quick description and a "Kinda like this" browse of the internet, but life is so much asier when she hands me a plan and says, "Build this".
Now, I do have a question. Is there a way to get Sketchup Models from you? I need to build this table with different dimensions, and it'd be easier to modify if I had the orginal model. Love the site, I'll be here often.

Hey, Phestr. I'm going to answer this for Ana because I don't know whether she'll see your question. If you contact her directly (try messaging her on FB to get in touch with her -- she's at Knock-Off Wood) you might be able to get the model. But, it might be faster to re-do the dimensions on your own. Good luck!

I'll try that route. I'm not in a terrible hurry, this table is about #3 on my build list.

I am going to build this table, if you wouldnt mind, could you please post some pictures of the places where the wood joins to I can just see what its spose to look like? Beautiful table, I cant wait to get started!

The hex bolts and corner brackets are from Lowe's. They're silver ones found in the hardware aisle -- the corner brackets come in 2-packs, I think. They're "Stanley" brand. The hex bolts are from the bulk bins. They're 1/2" size, if I remember right. I sprayed them all with flat black spray paint.

It's important to get the Stanley brand brackets because the other brands have a little indent in the inside corner preventing it from sitting flush against the outside corner of the table top.

I don't have a Kreg Jig so I'm wonering if I can build this without one. If so, what do you suggest I do & if not, which Kreg Jig would you recommend that I purchase? Thank you for this tutorial so much! This piece, with the exact dimensions, is going to be more than perfect in our home!

You could do it without a Kreg Jig. Just get a good countersink drill bit and use big deck screws. You'd have to join the top boards using mending plates, I think. A big set of clamps and wood glue would help, too.

Hi All! I'm sorry, I have another very newbie question...when you have to cut a piece of wood at an angle but also need to attach with pocket hole screws, using the Kreg Jig, do you drill the pocket holes before you cut? Or do you drill after you've cut? Like for the X-Console, for X pieces, do you drill the pocket holes before you cut the angles on the ends, or do you cut them first? If you cut them first, how do you orient the wood in the jig to drill the holes? I'm sorry if this is a redundant question. Thanks so much!

Drill after cutting and just hold it straight up in the jig. On this piece, I drilled the holes on the insides of the Xs. On the next two X pieces I built, I didn't use the Kreg Jig to attach the Xs; I just screwed them in at an angle.

I guess my question is the same as the one above mine; how difficult is this without the Kreg Jig? Or, what is your opinion on the Kreg Jig mini? At $22, it's a lot easier to convince my husband than the $100 a normal one costs... :)

I used the Mini for a lot of projects before I was ready to buy the full Kreg Jig. But, with the Mini you'll need to buy at least one Kreg face clamp to hold the Mini onto the piece of wood you're drilling, and you should probably also have a Kreg corner clamp, which has one end that clamps into the Kreg hole you've drilled. So it will still end up costing you around $75 total, probably. I think the full Kreg jig comes with a face clamp.

I am so in love with this piece. It is exactly what I want. How much would it cost if you made me one? : ) I just don't all of the tools to do this and I have never built a pieces of furniture before.

Hi, JBurke. If you're really interested in having one built, email me at hillary (dot) dickman (at) gmail (dot) com and we'll chat. The shipping may not be worth it, but we'll see!

Im to the "x" stage and I'm about to pull my hair out!!!! Hahaha
My miter saw does not do 60's and I'm not great yet with the circular saw. Obviously. I don't want to give up but I'm stuck!!!!!! Lol

Im to the "x" stage and I'm about to pull my hair out!!!! Hahaha
My miter saw does not do 60's and I'm not great yet with the circular saw. Obviously. I don't want to give up but I'm stuck!!!!!! Lol

For the Xs I had to pull the 2x2 out away from the fence. I first held the 2x2 up to the console and marked where I needed to cut. Then I lined up my miter saw blade with the mark and then cut. It was (I'm sure) not the safest way to do it but I kept a lot of pressure on the 2x2 and kept my hands far, far away from the blade. Good luck. :)

You can get an inexpensive back saw at most home centers or hardware stores. They're great for these kinds of inconvenient cuts. If you haven't used a saw like this before you should look up some of the videos out there on cutting with hand saws (especially First Class Cuts).

It's a versatile tool. I use one of these saws, a cheap chisel, a speed square and a sharp pocket knife to build a desk on Saturday.

I just used the cheapest of each kind. My 2x4 were studs.
Also make sure you get the straightest boards possible. I found this out the hard way. The 2x2's are the hardest ones to find good ones but it makes this project A LOT easier if they are straight! Lol
Good luck!

The 1x12s for the shelves were whitewood, which I think is the same as (or similar to) #2 Pine. The 2x2s were furring strips, which are whitewood too, I think. Brooke is right -- they are really hard to find straight and some days you have to leave and come back after they've gotten a fresh shipment. The 2x4s and 2x6s were fir. Do not use pressure treated lumber for this project unless you're planning to put it outside. Even then, you could get away without it, I think.

All the lumber for this project came from Lowe's. In my town, Lowe's has okay lumber for rustic projects, but HD is much better if you want higher quality (straight) boards. That probably isn't true everywhere. It definitely pays to look at both places or other lumber yards in your town.

I was wondering if any of you all have had to put a support piece of wood in the middle for the two shelves?

Love it. But do you attach the middle shelves. I have never used ph and I am not sure by the instructions on how to do the middle shelves. Also, if I was not going to use ph how would I attach the middle shelves? Thank you!

Drill pocket holes into the underside of the shelf where it lines up with the legs and the 2x2 face frame. If you decide not to use pocket holes, then countersink screws from the legs and the face frame into the middle shelf. I would definitely recommend pocket holes. Once you watch the video that comes with the kreg jig (or on the Kreg website) you'll see how easy it is.

Update: I ended up making my x's crosses! It was a gift for my preachers wife and it came to me after I went to bed that why don't I just make them straight edged crosses? They looked awesome :)
I will try to post a picture if I can figure that out hahaa

I would like to use this same idea but as a 46" wide by 6 ft tall bookcase, How do I convert this and know how much wood I need? The room I'll put it in is old knotty pine so I want to try to match that finish. Any ideas will help. I have been after my husband to build bookcase for many years but I thought I would try to build it myself if I could get easy clear instructions. All help would be appreciated!! Thanks, Bebe

This is a great table! I can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge with the public. What a sense of accomplishment when someone who doesn't have any woodworking experience can build such a nice table. Quick question: I know you said you got the hex bolts from Lowe's and painted them... but how did you attach them? Did you just pre-drill a hole and screw them in? Did you use nuts on the reverse side and a washer in front? I'm worried I will strip the wood. They are just 1/2" x 1" right? Thanks again for all the help!!

Thank you so much for posting your tutorial!! i just posted a concern about where to put the PH's for the shelves and your instructions were awesome!! Table looks great, thank you again.

Today I went out and bought all my wood to create this beautiful piece. My question is this. When should I stain it? Should I stain after I cut and before putting it together or should I build first and then stain? Sorry if you have already answered this but I didn't see it anywhere...thank you!

i love this project but it is a little big for my house. i would like to make a scared down version of this. what would be the material list and cut sizes and list if i only wanted the project to be 4 foot long instead of 74 inches?

thank you ashley

My husband and I have made this piece and LOVE it. However we are at the staining part and my vinegar doesn't seem to be changing with the wool pad in it. How long does this take? I'm not noticing any difference at all in my pad disintegrating. Are there any tips tricks to this? Is there another way to go about getting this color? Thank you tons.

Do you remember about how much the console ended up costing?! thanks so much!!

Hey all,
Where do I find the corner metal brackets and decorative hardware? I've tried Lowe's and Home Depot. Thanks!

This is a good piece of writing mate for this particular topic. I was wondering if I could use this write-up on my website, I will link it back to your website though. If this is a problem please let me know and I will take it down right away.Yves Beaunesne

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