$35 Wood Chaise Lounges

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$35 Wood Chaise Lounges

Make wood outdoor chaise lounge for $35. Free step by step DIY plans from Ana-White.com


Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!


Author Notes: 

For a couple years now, I've been wanting to build a simple wood chaise lounge made of inexpensive lumber and using a simple bolt pivot for the back.  But with a Momplex looming over our shoulders saying, get back to work on me!  Snow is going to fly before you know it!  This wasn't going to be the year of the inexpensive and super easy to make wood chaise lounges.

But then I thought, you maybe don't have a Momplex needing siding and decks put on, and maybe you would want to build and enjoy some chaise lounges this summer.

So I turned to my good friend Brook over at Being Brook - who's tagline is Create Awesome, but really should be I'M AWESOME - for some help.

And boy oh boy good golly did she every build a outdoor chaise lounge!

We really wanted to make these chaise lounges very affordable, so they are 24" wide to conserve wood - made of 1x3s which tend to be significantly cheaper than their slightly larger buddies, 1x4s.

The frame itself is made of sturdy 2x4s, and we used a simple bolt for the hinge.  Can you see it?

To get the back to rest at different angles, there is notch-outs that fit a 2x4.

And then you can go into full recline mode and the stop block fits under the back legs!!!  

Okee-dok!  Are you ready to build???  

Of course we have the plans right here for you - but please, take a second and stop over and read Brook's post on building these lounge chairs and her tips and tricks!  Thanks Brook!

Shopping List: 

5 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
8 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 – ¼” bolts 4” long with nuts and 6 washers
3” exterior screws
2” exterior screws or nails and glue to nail slats down with

measuring tape
safety glasses
hearing protection
circular saw
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Cut List: 

2 – 2x4 @ 85”
2 – 2x4 @ 21”
16 – 1x3 @ 24”
6 – 2x4 @ 14”
2 – 2x4 @ 7”

2 – 2x4 @ 32”
3 – 2x4 @ 17 ½”
7 – 1x3 @ 37 ½”
1 – 2x4 @ 24” (stop block)

Step 1: 

Build your frames first. You can use 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws OR 3" countersunk screws. I highly recommend the PHs because it will hide your screws holes, making it easier to paint the pieces, and then attach later through the PHs.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Next add your slats. You can also attach slats from underneath with PHs if desired.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach legs, and then to front, attach second row of legs. Use 2 1/2" screws and glue here.

Step 4 Instructions: 

These legs are just long enough to provide you a spot to put the stop block when chaise is fully reclined.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Now build your back - recommending 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws again here.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Add the back slats.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Now we attach back to chaise with the pivot bolt ....

Step 8 Instructions: 

Brook is also sharing with us her step by step finishing tutorial here to get this amazing finish!

Step 9 Instructions: 

And the missing diagram for the stop block - thanks Brook for the heads up and Mark.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 


What are the measurements/locations of the stop block notches in the base frame? The first step says to add them in a later step, but I'm not seeing that step - or did I miss something :)

You will need 2 - 1/4" bolts that are 4 inches long. You will need 2 nuts to match the threading on 2 bolts. You will also need 6 washers with 1/4" holes.

Start on the outside. Thread one bolt through a washer, slide the bolt through the whole on the outside rail, add one more washer, add the back of the chair, add another washer and then the nut on the end. This should allow the back to move independently.

May I recommend you use stainless steel hardware.

Great plans! I'd love to see a modification for a little slide-out desk like the one from World Market! But if I had a great big stump, I'd use it for a side-table instead, too...totally cute. Great plans, wish I had time to do this this season...maybe next!

hi--bought the 2.5" Kreg screws to affix the slats: went straight up through! set jig at 1.5"...

hi--bought the 2.5" Kreg screws to affix the slats: went straight up through! set jig at 1.5"...

From someone whose big accomplishment this year was learning how to use a dremmel to build a pinewood derby car (cute but not fast), I have a few layman questions . . .

1. The plans provide specifications, but do not indicate the type of wood . . . does that matter?

2. Does the type of wood contribute to the life of the chaise lounger? Or do other things matter like stain/paint?

3. My husband is a big guy 220-240 lbs . . . provided I can actually build it correctly, will it hold his weight?

Thank youI love this site and if I can pull this off, I think I will double major in mommying and wood shop and build lots more stuff!

These are great questions...was a reply ever sent? I wouold like to know the answers as well :)


1. The plans provide specifications, but do not indicate the type of wood . . . does that matter?
... usually, no.

2. Does the type of wood contribute to the life of the chaise lounger? Or do other things matter like stain/paint?
... if it's outdoor, yes. It's good to use cedar or pressure treated outside. Waterproofing staining is supposed to last longer than paint.

3. My husband is a big guy 220-240 lbs . . . provided I can actually build it correctly, will it hold his weight?
... when building your own furniture, sometimes its trial and error. My finance is about 200 lbs and sits on the chaise just fine. If you're really concerned, you might want to tweek the legs or the support with beefier wood like 2x4.

I am probably going to make this my winter project with my husband so that we have a lovely set come Spring/Summer out here in California.

If I get to it first, I will let you know Tami!

Eley :)

Hi Ana,
I just began working on this project for this week. And one thing I came up with that might be very helpful to anyone tackling this project is a detailed cutting diagram. Is there a way for me to post an image file or PDF file? This diagram helps to make sure all the pieces can be cut from the amount of lumber in the shopping list.

I'm wondering what tool to cut the notches with? Specifically speaking, I don't have a jig saw, unfortunately. All I have is a circular saw and a sawz-all (sp?). I'm hoping that doesn't put this project on a "can't do" list for me. But I can't imagine how in the world to cut those notches with what I have.

all you need is a circular saw, a chissle, and a hammer.
Using circular saw cut through the wood in straight lines about a 1/4 to a 1/2 inches wide. next use hammer to knock out the wood t obe removed . finally use hammer and chissle to remove the rest of the wood in the notch and smooth it out with chssle for a good fit. i hope i have been of somehelp.


hello can someone please help me I am stuck. I have the chaise lounge built, I'm having a hard time understanding how the stop block and notches work. Do you attach the block to the legs? The back of the chair? I'm really confused with the step.