Weathered Pine Stain

Primary tabs

PDF versionPDF version
Additional Photos: 
Author Notes: 
Do you love the look of weathered wood, but don’t quite trust a reclaimed wood board for your dining table? Or don’t have an endless supply of pallet boards, not treated with harsh chemicals?<p>You can still get the look of weathered wood on new boards. And you don’t have to leave your project out in the weather for years to get this look.</p><p>I’m really excited today to team up once again with the awesome folks over at <a href="" target="_blank">Minwax </a>to bring you a quick and easy <strong>INDOOR&nbsp;</strong>stain tutorial that will age your pine boards in hours, not years!</p><p><img src="" style="width: 470px; " alt="" /></p><p>Can you believe this is the exact same board, one bare pine, and one with a stain applied? &nbsp;You don't have to dumpster dive and you can stop eyeing your neighbor's old shed to get the beauty of weathered wood in your home!</p><p>For this tutorial, I built a <a href="" target="_blank">Jewelry Wall Cabine</a>t from new pine boards.&nbsp;</p><p>And this is how it turned out! </p><p><img src="" style="height: 629px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>Yes, those were brand spanking new boards just hours earlier! &nbsp;</p><p></p><p><img src="" style="width: 470px; " alt="" /></p><p>Follow along in this tutorial, and I'll show you exactly how you can also apply that<span style="font-style: italic;"> oh so difficult to get weathered gray stain</span> to your new pine boards!</p>
Shopping List: 
Pine Indoor project<p><br /><p>120 Grit Sand Paper</p><p>220 Grit Sand Paper</p><p>Staining Rags</p><p><a href="" target="_blank">Minwax Wood Finish in Classic Gray</a></p><p><a href="" target="_blank">Stain Brush</a></p><p>Small Oil Based Stain Brush</p><p>Finishing Sanding Block</p><p><a href="" target="_blank">Spray-On Minwax Polycrylic in Clear Satin</a></p><p>Paint Thinner for cleaning brushes</p><p><a href="" target="_blank">Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner </a></p></p>
Step 1 Diagram: 
Step 1: 
<h2>Preparing Wood</h2><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">This project is built on pine. &nbsp;Always take a minute to test the stain on scrap boards to ensure the stain works well with your boards. &nbsp;Remember that the more rustic your boards are before the stain - the more rustic they'll look after the stain - so go ahead, use up those knotty boards that are straight but have lots of&nbsp;imperfections!</p><p class="MsoNormal">After you build your project, take your time and sand it well.&nbsp; Sanding will not only smooth out any splinters or rough patches, but sanding also prepares your wood for accepting stain.<o:p></o:p></p> I used 120 grit sandpaper for the initial sanding, with an orbital power sander.<p><br /><p><img src="" style="width: 470px; height: 498px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>Make sure you sand all areas inside and out.</p><p><img src="" alt="" /></p><p>Once your project has been sanded, remove all sanding residue with a brush. &nbsp;</p><p></p><p><img src="" alt="" /></p><p>You can also use a soft bristled brush on a vacuum. &nbsp;Then follow up with a damp rag, making sure all sanding residue is removed.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p></p><p></p><p></p></p>
Step 2 Instructions: 
<h2>Preparing Supplies </h2><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p><a href="" target="_blank">Minwax just came out with this great new stain called Classic Gray. </a>&nbsp;It is the only stain that I used on this project.</p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 419px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>Like all stains, you will want to mix until the stain is a uniform color. &nbsp;Scrape the bottom with your stir stick, loosening up stubborn stain on the bottom of the can.</p><p></p><p><img src="" alt="" /></p><p></p><p>Ready for application!</p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>I use over and over again a <a href="" target="_blank">good oil based stain brush</a> that is properly taken care of. &nbsp;For this project, I’m using a 1 ½” brush. &nbsp;Use a brush sized for your project.</p><p>You can also apply with a sponge applicator or rags.</p><p></p><p></p>
Step 3 Instructions: 
<h2>Applying Stain </h2><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 369px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>It’s always a good idea to test out the stain on a scrap piece. &nbsp;If your stain looks blotchy, then apply Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner before staining – it’s cheap insurance and easy to do. &nbsp;</p><p></p><p></p><p>When you begin staining, apply in the direction of the wood grain, starting on the inside working your way outward.</p><p></p><p><img src="" alt="" /></p><p>Carefully apply stain to all areas, getting the stain into all crevices and joints.</p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>When wood weathers in nature, the knots weather differently than the wood itself. &nbsp;If you simply apply stain over the knots, the finished product may look unnaturally weathered. &nbsp;I took a small paint brush and applied stain around the knots.</p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>For areas too small to reach with the main stain brush, use the small paint brush. &nbsp;Once stain soaks into those knots, it will be difficult to remove.</p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">It’s okay to admire your work as you go!&nbsp; The color is quite beautiful with a shimmery luster.<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img src="" style="height: 342px; width: 470px; " alt="" /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">Once your first coat has been fully applied, allow the stain to soak in for up to 15 minutes. If the stain isn't as dark as you'd like, you can add a second coat after 4 to 6 hours.</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">Don't worry, I got that spot I missed!</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p></p><p></p>
Step 4 Instructions: 
<h2>Wiping Off Excess Stain</h2><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>After the stain soaks in, test a small area where you first started applying the stain by wiping off with a rag.&nbsp; TIP: Use old baby clothes as rags.<o:p></o:p></p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>If you are happy with the amount of stain soaking in, wipe off all excess stain on the project.<o:p></o:p></p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 415px; " alt="" /></p><p>Blend stain around knots to make knots appear more natural in the stain.</p><p><img src="" style="height: 393px; " alt="" /></p><p>Work excess stain into areas that are lighter or less uniform in color.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p>
Step 5 Instructions: 
<h2>Additional Coats</h2><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p>The wood used on the doors for my project took the stain much lighter than the rest of the project. Naturally weathered wood will weather inconsistently too – on a board by board basis – but I wanted this project to be more consistent. &nbsp;So I added a second coat to the doors. &nbsp;</p><p><img src="" alt="" style="height: 571px; " /></p><p></p><p>Around the knots, I carefully added more stain.</p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 415px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>And then I just brushed on more stain over the doors. &nbsp;I let this second coat soak in for about 15 minutes, and then wiped off, blending knots again.</p>
Step 6 Instructions: 
<h2>Cleaning Brushes</h2><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 594px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>To clean the brush, fill a jar half way up with paint thinner.</p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p>Swirl the brush in the paint thinner to loosen up stain. &nbsp;If you need to, use a fork to comb through the brush bristles.</p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>Then wash your brush with soapy water, swirling the brush in the palm of your hand.</p><p></p><p><img src="" style="height: 314px; " alt="" /></p><p></p><p>Rinse the brush clean and store in original packaging. &nbsp;Your brush will be like brand new again!</p>
Step 7 Instructions: 
<h2>Final Top Coat</h2><p></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">Once the stain is completely dry on the project and you are happy with your masterpiece, it's time to <em>seal the deal!</em><o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img src="" style="height: 642px; " alt="" /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">To protect your hard-earned finish, I choose my favorite top coat, <a href="" target="_blank">Minwax Polycrylic in satin.</a> &nbsp;The satin sheen is barely noticeable, but will seal your project and make it easy to wipe clean. &nbsp;And the polycrylic won't amber over time!</p><p class="MsoNormal">First remove all sanding residue with a brush or vacuum with a soft bristled brush. &nbsp;Then wipe clean with a damp rag and allow the project to dry <span style="font-weight: bold;">completely</span>. &nbsp;</p><p class="MsoNormal">Protect the area around your project from possible overspray or work outdoors. &nbsp;A word of caution - I once sprayed top coat on outside and the wind picked up and covered the project in dirt and leaves .... Thankfully, the Minwax Spray On Polycrylic dries to touch fast.</p><p class="MsoNormal">I sprayed on three coats of polycrylic, opting for light even coats, and waiting about half an hour between coats, lightly sanding the project with 220 grit sandpaper in between coats, and removing all sanding residue before spraying. &nbsp;This results in a super smooth finish!</p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img src="" style="height: 629px; " alt="" /></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">Enjoy the look of weathered wood without waiting on the weather or worrying about what's in that wood!<o:p></o:p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><p class="MsoNormal">Special thanks to <a href="" target="_blank">Minwax </a>for bringing you this staining tutorial!</p><p></p><p></p>


I know you need to give credit to Minwax products but can I use one of those foam brushes and save a lot of clean up.

Minwax has some terrific stain colors. I just built a pantry for my kitchen (my first build....whew! What a learning experience THAT was!) and I picked up a can of Minwax whitewash and a can of their parchment. I have sample boards leaning up against the pantry with one and two coats of each and I can't decide! Now this is another option to add to my indecision!! YIKES!! Great tutorial (as always)....thanks Ana!

"Scrape the bottom with your stir stick, loosening up stubborn stain on the bottom of the can."

I drop several small pebbles into the can, put the lid back on and shake and swirl it until the pebbles are mo0ving freely. Works like the beads in spray paint.

I bought a bunch of paint thinner in plastic containers when I found it on sale one time and stored it in my garage. Now, a few years later, I have found that some of the unopened jugs are almost empty due to evaporation through the plastic. At that point a light bulb went off in my head. I have started cleaning my brushes with paint thinner in a plastic coffee can. Once the paint solids settle to the bottom of the can I pour off the clean paint thinner into another more permanent container and leave the goop in the bottom of the coffee can to evaporate and dry out. Once it's dried out I toss it in the trash.

Hello. Love your site. I have a project due in the next few days and i can't find this stain (Minwax Classic Grey) to buy in any stores and the few places like home depot which i called say it will take 5 to 7 business days to get it in. Do you have any idea where i can find it in North Jersey area? If i have to delay the project then i will but i would like to get this stain as soon as possible. Thank you so much in advance for any

I love the tutorial! I refinished my entire kitchen cabinets last year, all the way down to naked wood. I mixed my own stain because I wanted to match my Mission Style family room furniture. I wanted it to be a rich deep amber color. The color of hot brewed tea. I used 3 different colors and got the perfect shade. I made a gallon of it! It is stored in a gallon glass pickle jar. I won't be running out of it! I could not have done it without Minwax. I called their help line several times when I had a question, and they were so nice. I got one fellow, Kyle , I think is his name got me three times and I always got a pleasant helpful answer.
It took me 3 and a half months to complete the whole project. However, by comparison, I saved probably $10,000. And rather than reface, with particle and laminate, or veneer, I have my original solid oak doors.
I have had great comments on my long project. It took the kitchen out of commission from November through March. But the results, well, the man at the cabinet hardware specialty store asked who redid my door, when I took one in to find new hinges. He was surprised and very complimentary about my results.
I did, because I am frugal sometimes- reuse my original hinges. I scrubbed and cleaned and oiled them and they were as good as new. The ones that had rusted, the ones by the sink and dishwasher were sadly worn. But I had enough from other projects to fill all the spots. I added knobs and drawer pulls which I did not have originally. My Kitchen is quite pretty and I think, if you think you can do it- give it a try. There are so many sites to go to now- Like Ana's, someone will have a good answer for your dilemma! What is the worst that can happen? You goof, you start over. Just be safe, and smart!You can do it! Elbow grease and sweat equity works wonders. Good Luck!