120 Medium Grit Sandpaper
220 Fine Grit Sandpaper
Rags
Foam Applicator
Minwax Oil Based Pre Stain Wood Conditioner
Minwax Wood Finish in Golden Oak
Minwax Wood Finish Stain Brush
Minwax Water Based Polycrylic
Paint Thinner for Clean Brushes
Give yourself a great start on your project by properly preparing it.

Start with a medium grit sandpaper, sanding the entire project. I used 120 grit in an orbital power sander, working in the direction of wood grain.

Follow the medium grit sandpaper with a fine sanding. You can use a power sander here as well.

All that sanding is going to leave your project dusty. Remove the dust with a soft bristled brush or a vacuum with a soft bristled brush. Follow up by wiping down the project with a damp rag.

I love how the stain turned out! And since you mentioned a color, but not wanting paint, I think it was the Shanty Sisters who experimented with using RIT dye to color wood without using paint. I think they definitely need to do a project and tutorial here!
Hi Busy Bee, I am so glad you left this comment! The combination I used worked beautifully on the project, but after checking the can, you are right - it is recommended to use Oil Based Pre Stain Conditioner with Wood Finish. I will update the tutorial per your comment. Thank you so much for the catch! Ana
love this! reminds of the b-beds my dad made for my brothers! so very cool!
m ^..^
Minwax makes water-based stains in most of the same colors, also, if you would rather use the water-based pre-stain conditioner :) You can use oil-based under water-based, but it is not recommended to go the other way around. If using water-based over oil-based, though (i.e. water-based poly over oil-based stain), it is recommended to let the oil-based layer fully cure for 3-4 days.
Once you finish a big project like this bed, how would you recommend moving it into the house and bedrooms. Obviously, a project that size is bulky and will not fit through most doorways. Do you take it a part into sections and then rescrew? If so, have you noticed those joints being weaker than when you originally join them together for priming and painting? I am a novice at furniture building, and I really want to say thank you for inspiring people to build.
When I redid my baseboards in my other house, we used regular 1x4 pine, routed the edge and stained it in this color. Cost us about the same as buying MDF baseboards, but we had the beautiful warm rich color of real wood! :) Thanks for the tutorial. I really enjoy reading them.
I am so glad that I found your article because I needed a new bed for my boy. Your article and the description gives me all the information to make a bed similar to yours. Recently I bought a property fully furnished, with Flat Roofing but without furniture for children. Your project inspired me to make this type of furniture in the backyard.
very good.
But inks it is not good for children's health
they stay ill
Hi there. Super excited to build this table for my kitchen. You also mentioned that the plans for the bench is also available. Where can I get this plans?
I really like your primer on staining, especially the use of photos. I have a can of the conditioner but seem to be in such a hurry I forget to use it. I will post a big reminder on all of my stain cans to use the conditioner first. I have one question. My Min-Wax conditioner says to stain before the conditioner dries. Is this necessary? On big projects you have to move with the speed of a speeding bullet to stay ahead of the drying conditioner.
Jake
Hi! I am new to building furniture, and was hoping to start my first few projects next weekend. Questions on staining/painting in colder temperatures though:
My work-space will be in the garage, but living in Wisconsin and about to head into the coldest weeks of the year I am wondering how this will work.
Is it ok to stain/paint in 20-30 degree temperatures or will this significantly change how the finish turns out?
If so, would it not be ok to bring the items inside after sanding to stain or is it not as ventilated as it should be?
Unfortunately, we don't have a basement or mudroom living in a condo...
Wondering what you do in the cold Alaskan months?
Hi! I am new to building furniture, and was hoping to start my first few projects next weekend. LOVE your site/plans! Questions on staining/painting in colder temperatures though:
My work-space will be in the garage, but living in Wisconsin and about to head into the coldest weeks of the year I am wondering how this will work.
Is it ok to stain/paint in 20-30 degree temperatures or will this significantly change how the finish turns out?
If so, would it not be ok to bring the items inside after sanding to stain or is it not as ventilated as it should be?
Unfortunately, we don't have a basement or mudroom living in a condo...
Wondering what you do in the cold Alaskan months?
Hi Hannah: We live in Iowa and we deal with cold temperatures in fact I built a play kitchen for my Granddaughter for Christmas and we painted it with a water base paint. I was running a two burner Propane heater in our Garage and it help keep the temperature around 40 with the outside temperature around 5. The paint was really hard to work with and it left streaks that were visible looking at it from an angle not to mention dry time. I also stained a couple of things and they came out really nice just a long dry time, Polyurethane is not as forgiving as Stain The Cold slowing down dry time along with damp air you take a risk of it turning cloudy and then as I found out it is back to the Sanding to bare wood and starting over so I stain and wait for warmer temps for final protection.
I love the stain but I also love the bed! Do you have plans for this? I searched and did not see this bed listed...
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