Camp Loft Bed with Stair, Junior Height

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PLAN UPDATE: I have revised step 1 of this plan to increase the safety of the platform, so there is no more than a 3" gap between the stair rungs. If you have built this bed, you can simply add another "rung" to the stair part to increase the safety at the platform area.

Before we get to a plan, I simply must warn you. 

Do not build this bed if you want any of the following to happen:

Your kids to play independently in their room for hours and hours and hours ...  if you build this bed, you will see your kids 30-40% less ...

Do NOT build this bed if you want your kids to take a nap, all by themselves ... It's like a protected nest up there, with rails on all sides, and easy access with stairs.  They just climb up there and go to sleep.  No snuggling required.

If you build this bed, you will miss out on lots of smiles and laughter and pretend play.  And when you come try to join in, they will start giggling and say, Mom!  Leave us alone, we're playing horses!  Or store or house or pretending the stair platform is a stage.

The only reason I built this bed was because the room is so tiny (8x8 with small closet) it was very difficult for the kids to play, and then put their things away in a space the size of a short hallway.  We'd done a loft bed years ago, but the loft bed was only accessible by children, and there was no where for guests to sleep in our house.

So we needed a loft bed WITH STAIRS that is sturdy and easy to access in a TINY room.  With the window right there, I just didn't know how to make it work.  And then one day, I realized that the stairs do NOT need to go all the way up to the bed.  They only need to go up about 18" to 24" (normal height of kids mattress above floor) below the mattress.  

The window was previously the obstacle in the way of building stairs.  Now it's entertainment for the kids as they watch the chickens run around the back yard.

Under the bed, no storage is lost.  I've been debating adding some custom sized rolling toy bins but the giant canvas bag is doing fine holding pillows, blankets and stuffed animals.

It is no exaggeration to say they play in their ALL DAY.  I'm considering making a felt curtain for the front too ...

The best part about this bed is how easy and inexpensive it is to make.  That's all 2x4s and 2x6s (I'll share my finishing technique with you later this week) bringing the total cost of lumber up to about $50!!!  

And I don't know how easy this bed was to build personally, all I can say is I printed off the plans and handed them to the Ram and Grandpa Tim and said, I'll be out after I finish my post.  Two hours later I headed out to the garage and the bed was DONE!  

Now it's your turn!!!

Keywords: 
loft, bed, plans, diy, junior, stairs
Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above. Fits twin.
Dimensions: 

14 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
4 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
2 ½” PH screws

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
sander
countersink drill bit
Cut List: 

4 – 2x4 @ 65 ½”
2 – 2x6 @ 37 ½”
5 – 2x4 @ 37 ½”
4 – 2x4 @ 75”
2 – 2x6 @ 75”
2 – 2x2 @ 75”
2 – 2x4 @ 30 ½”
2 – 2x4 @ 37 ½”
1 – 2x4 @ 41 ½”
2 – 2x4 @ 20 ½”
12 – 2x4 @ 22”
2 – 2x6 @ 43” (both ends cut 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel) – to be trimmed down in later steps
6 – 1x2 @ 7 ¾” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square
6 – 2x4 @ 20 ½”

Project Type: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Build the ladder end as shown in diagram with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. Use glue to fasten - these joints are permanent.

If you are building this loft bed without the stair platform, add 2x4s all the way down to make a "ladder" for the kids to climb up.

Step 2

Build front end of loft bed same as ladder end.

Summary: 

Loft bed plans with stairs. Junior height loft bed plans free from Ana-White.com

Step 3

Now here's where we skip the glue. To make this loft bed easy to disassemble, I did not use glue here. The inside width for the mattress area should be 39", insetting the side rails 1 1/4" from outsides. I did this so your PH screws have lots of board to grab into.

This bed has NOT been weight tested or guaranteed. If you feel you need extra support - add metal brackets under the 2x6s.

An alternative method is to attach metal bed brackets directly to the ends if you have those.

Notice the cleat is added in this step to. I used 2 1/2" screws and glue to attach, screws every 6-8" all the way down.

This bed is designed to work with a bunkie board, but we just used 2x6s cut to length as the bed slats.

Step 4

Now we'll start building the stair platform for the loft bed with stairs.

Step 5

Build the floor framing section and attach to the floor legs. I recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws and glue here.

Step 6

And then the decking is placed on top of the stair platform.

Step 7

The stairs are easy to build - just 45 degree angles! We went ahead and drilled 1 1/2" PHs along top edge of the stairs to connect the stairs to the bed later on.

Step 8

Then we added the stair treads. We also drilled 1 1/2" PHs along ends of the stair treads and attached with 2 1/2" PH screws just for extra strength. Everything gets glued.

Step 9

Step 9 Instructions: 

The bed was finished outside and then assembled in the room.

TIP: We haven't found our bed needs it, but for extra support, you could add another 2x4 @ 75" (at $2 a 2x4, cheap insurance) to the base of the bed to further support the bottoms.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Is there enough clearance to put another twin bed coming straight out underneath this? Hope that makes sense.

Hi Candace, there would be room, but I'd suggest making the legs a tad longer for a little more headroom. This bed is really a junior loft bed height.

You could just leave the platform at the same height, or add another tread to the stairs.

I made this for my daughter and she just loves it! I have been looking for what seems forever to find something like this for her and was beyond excited when I saw this! My boys even love it and want one for their rooms! Thanks so much for sharing!!!!
About iMacLand

I really like this bed, just one question though, it doesnt seem clear to me, what does the mattress sit on, wood slats, plywood, or is this planned for a box spring mattress on the bottom?
the greywood

I really like this bed, just one question though, it doesnt seem clear to me, what does the mattress sit on, wood slats, plywood, or is this planned for a box spring mattress on the bottom?

Hi Andrew, what we did for the wood slats is cut 2x6s (had scraps, but you could also use 2x4s or even 1x material - just space closer together) to the inside dimension of the bed (for us it ended up being 39 1/2") and screwing down. We have a firm mattress and found spacing every 6" was fine, but every mattress is different so space your slats as necessary for your mattress.

They also sell what is called a bunkie board and also sell bunkie board mattresses - or mattresses with an included bunkie board.

I was thinking that was the idea, but wanted to make sure I wasnt missing something. Thank you !

This is a great plan. I was planning to do the one with stair storage, but with parallel rails instead of perpendicular ones. I should easily be able to wrap it up in a few hours with this plan. Also, have you thought about adding a shelf or two under the mid platform to add some storage space. I think I may add that and use some cloth boxes to make a small dresser/storage area.

Great plan overall.

I was going to the lumber yard to get the materials to make my daughter the fort bed TODAY, then I saw this was just posted. I love the sturdiness of the 2x4s and the overall look. I am nervous that with the stair landing it will be too long for the space. Do you think I could meld the two together and basically make this bed but build in the ladder in the same side fashion as the fort bed? Her room would be better suited to the side ladder verses just building up the ladder on the end, though that would be tremendously easier. I've never built anything like this before but your detailed plans definitely make me feel like I can tackle this job.

Ana this just might top the clubhouse bed, love how Grace can play underneath in her new 'fort' just like my kids do under the clubhouse bed. Who knew we were making another playspace AND a cool bed all in one. Love your design, you truly are a building genius.

This looks great, Ana. My only concern is the exposed corners on the stairs but other than that, it looks like something my son would love!

This is exactly what I needed - I have exactly the same space problem with the stupid window in the same inconvenient spot, and I needed to stick a toddler bed underneath. Only I just finished a modified version of the loft bed (shorter with side entrance instead of front) and (taking the idea from the playhouse loft bed) made storage stairs to fit alongside. I like mine fine and all, but, but, but. This looks like a great bed, just wish I'd procrastinated on the one for my boys a little longer =D.

are these plans downloadable with the google sketch up file? so we can tweak? or this not an option? sorry... first time attempting anything from your amazing site!

are these plans downloadable with the google sketch up file? so we can tweak? or this not an option? sorry... first time attempting anything from your amazing site!

Oh my word! just when I think I've got everything chosen and figured out with which plans I'm going to use, you come out with something better and exactly what I need. I love how this loft bed has high stretchers v. low ones.

We are going to be building an "L" loft bed with the reading loft in the corner connecting the two beds because we want the entire space under the bed to be accessed and I've been worrying about the stretchers on the floor and kids tripping over them.

Will a stretcher on the long (wall) wall side of the bed compensate if one is missing on an end?

How much headroom is required for the bed? I have 8 foot ceilings and I would like to have 5 feet underneath, but 3 foot minus mattress height seems dicey.

Hi RZ, this definitely is more of a junior height loft bed. The kids that use it are 3, 5, and 8 and it works perfect for them. You can easily increase height by adding more length to legs. However, I highly recommend if you do go any higher to add a bottom support stretcher across the back. You'll want all but the front side connected at the bottom to prevent legs splaying or sway. Another option is cross bracing. Hope this all makes sense!

Great plans. I love the site. I just finished building this bed with out the stairs and the platform. I used 2X4 to create a ladder to the foot of the bed. I also attached at a 2X4 at the bottom of the legs from the head board to the foot board. All the the corners on the bed are square and tight. When my daughter climbs up the bed, it slightly wobbles from head board to the foot of the bed. After examining the bed it looks as the though the legs wobble even the joints are tight. Would another horizontal 2X4 higher up on the legs stop the wobble or would I have to create a cross brace from the head board to the foot of the bed.

Great plans. I love the site. I just finished building this bed with out the stairs and the platform. I used 2X4 to create a ladder to the foot of the bed. I also attached at a 2X4 at the bottom of the legs from the head board to the foot board. All the the corners on the bed are square and tight. When my daughter climbs up the bed, it slightly wobbles from head board to the foot of the bed. After examining the bed it looks as the though the legs wobble even the joints are tight. Would another horizontal 2X4 higher up on the legs stop the wobble or would I have to create a cross brace from the head board to the foot of the bed.

Thanks. I was planning on a desk across the back made like a large $10 shelf with a leg or two with pegboard and maybe a shoe shelf. My son is 8 and will be at least 6 feet tall, so I was also thinking about increasing the length by 5 inches for an XL mattress (his room is 10x10). I am ordering the locking safety bed brackets, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10230.

So... Here is what I don't like about this bed...
My husband and I have a blended family... "your's, mine and... what the heck were we thinking" LOL.. anyways... we have 7 children and a 4 bedroom house. The ages and the sexes of the kids don't really line up very well so we have three girls (10, 12, 13) in one room, one boy (16) in his own room (don't know how he managed that) and then we have two boys (4, 8) and one girl (5) in the other room. The fiver year old girl and the 10 13 year old don't live here. I have been looking for plans for the younger kids rooms. I'd thought about bunks for the boys and a separate bed/area for the girl.

The problem.... This bed is so cool they are all gonna fight over who gets to sleep in it.

This bed is amazing! I've been planning on building some beds for my kids, and have purchased 1x6s and 1x3s for the side rails. Would it be a problem to use them for this bed instead of the 2x6 and 2x4s? I would still use the 2x4s for the legs and platform, and end bracing.

Well, we decided to go with the 2x4s and 2x6s. Bought them this morning - only $40 for all the lumber! After doing the first dozen cuts with a circular saw, we are considering renting a mitre saw to do the rest tomorrow!

What size screws did you use to put together the bed ends. We were thinking 4.5" screws to go through the boards?

This is exactly what I had in mind! Can't wait to tackle this project this weekend!

How exactly did you attach the decking to the platform? This is my first big wood project and I am not quite seeing how to do that part. While I was cutting and sanding I was assuming that it was just more pocket holes, but in reading the the plans over and over, I don't know how to do that with the platform upright. I'm not very big, but it seems too cozy under there. Thank you! I am getting so excited to put this together.

Hey Anna,

Absolutely love this bed. I was just at the IKEA site looking at one similar. I am in awe... something told me to come on over to your site! I have a daughter and a son 14 months apart and although only 2 and 1 this will be perfect for when they are a bit older and sharing a room. I am thinking of throwing a mattress underneath and having one sleep down there.

Great work!

We just finished this, and went to put the box spring in...it's too wide. The box spring fell right thru. It is an older box spring that we're pairing with a new top mattress. Are the older ones narrower?

A box spring should not be used on an elevated bed like this. It will raise the mattress up too high, making it unsafe for a child. (The height of the side rails won't be sufficient to keep the child from falling out easily.)
Either use a slat system across the width of the bed or buy a bunky board for beneath the mattress.

This is EXACTLY what we were looking for, I can't begin to thank you enough!!!! Can't WAIT to get started!

Starting this project today. Was a little mislead though, by the cost estimate. Lumber and screws were right at $100. 14 2x4's at $3.97ea is $50 alone!

I just purchased the wood for this project (increasing the size to a full size mattress) and the lumber cost right at $57.00. BUT, we went to our local lumber yard with the best prices and then took the quote to Lowe's. They matched the price and gave us a 10% extra discount. It cut the price of 2X6's from $4.50 to a bit over $2.55 a piece and 2X4's ended up being $1.88 a piece. If you have the option of different suppliers, call around and find the best price and then take it to some where else...we chose Lowe's because you can pick the wood so you know yet get straight pieces.

Please tell me the modifications to make this a full size bed....I am a beginner to say the least and I would love to make this for my son who has a bed on the top of his Christmas list!!

I've been looking for something like this, but with a full size mattress. Do you think it would work and do you know what measurement adjustments I would need?

I'm doing this bed as a full size bed...should be starting (and hopefully finishing) it this weekend. I'll let you know what are measurements are if you want.

Yay! Pammylaine, I want to make this bed in a full as well! If you wouldn't mind sharing your measurements I would really appreciate it!
Thanks!

Well, I managed (with lots of help from my parents) to get the bed built this weekend. What we did to get the measurements was to measure the mattress and then, just to be sure we were pretty accurate, we measured the actual bed that we were replacing (which was a full size antique bed that belonged to my great grandmother). The overall length stayed the same (the bed portion at 75 inches) however, obviously the width changed.

Everything that was measured to be cut at 37 1/2inches was changed to 55 inches.

The board that was to be cut 40 1/2 inches was changed to 58 1/2 inches. This was due to the width of the bed changing to 62 inches over all. This accounted for centering the board on both end posts with the other two 2X4's sitting flush with the edge of the boards (this is for the stair case).

The added inches also changed the required number of boards. We went with:
--------6-2X6's instead of 4 (we used an extra to brace the back of the bed instead of a 2X4)
-------20-2X4's instead of 14 (this gave us a few extra that we used to cut bed slats with...they were 56 inches perfectly from one end to the other)

All the other lumber stayed the same.

The only changes we made to the number of cuts was for the landing of the steps. We ended up using 15-2X4's cut at 22 inches and slightly spaced so that it covered the entire end of the bed. I wasn't comfortable with leaving the end open and not having something all the way across.

Oh, we also changed where the side boards were set on the end posts. The plans call for it to be 1 1/4 inches from the edge of the board. We clamped a 1X2 to the edge of the bed which was easier on us. That put it about 1 1/2 inches from the edge. It worked great for us.

On a personal note, make sure you measure to make sure the stairs won't prevent doors from closing. I didn't and we had to modify the stair case some to accommodate for the door. Have fun! We did...just make sure you take the weather into account. If I do it again, it won't be during the beginning of August in East Texas (typically the hottest time of the year) when the temperature is over 90 with a heat index rising to triple digits. I hope this helps some of y'all. I'll post a picture of it when I finish filling holes and touch up painting.

Would you be able to give me a list of all of the measurements that you've done. As well as a picture ?
I'd appreciate it !

Thanks

So, I'll break it down into our cut list and our step by step measurements. If you would like I can still email them to you though. If you click on my name you should be able to go to my brag post where a few pictures are of the bed.

Cut List-
4-2X4 @ 65 1/2 inches
2-2X6 @ 55 inches
4-2X4 @ 55 inches
2-2X4 @ 75 inches
3-2X6 @ 75 inches (the extra is for additional frame bracing)
2-2X2 @ 75 inches
2-2X4 @ 30 1/2 inches
2-2X4 @ 20 1/2 inches
16-2X4 @ 22 inches
2-2X6 @ 43 inches
6-1X2 @ 7 3/4 inches
6-2X4 @ 20 1/2 inches
1-2X4 @ 58 1/2 inches

Step 1-Center boards between legs
1-2X6 @ 55 inches
1-2X4 @ 55 inches

Step 2-Center boards between legs
Top-
2-2X4 @ 55 inches
1-2X6 @ 55 inches
Bottom-
1-2X4 @ 55 inches

Step 3-Side Rails
4-2X4 @ 75 inches
2-2X6 @ 75 inches
2-2X2 @ 75 inches (Cleats)

Step 4-Stair Platform
2-2X4 @ 30 1/2 inches
2-2X4 @ 55 inches

Step 5-Stair Platform Framing
2-2X4 @ 20 1/2 inches
1-2X4 @ 58 1/2 inches

Step 6-Remains the same as original plans

Step 7-Remains the same as original plans

Step 8-Remains the same as original plans

Step 9-Additional framing support
1-2X6 @ 75 inches long---this was just to give me the feeling of additional sturdiness (is that even a word?) since my 4 year old is using it.

Thank you so much! We already have a full size mattress and wanted to upgrade these plans for that. Did you have to add any extra supports to make sure it stayed sturdy?

Hi--
We just added an extra 2X6 as a brace between the back legs on the bottom. We also made sure it was directly against a wall on one end...that helps as well with the sturdiness thing. I really do feel like the bed is sturdy enough. I'm up there with my son at bed time reading books, and he likes to be a bit daring and do flips (it makes my heart stop when he does them!!) and we haven't had ANY issues...I see this bed lasting him a good long time.

That should say I can let you know what our measurements are. I should really read what I type before I push send.

I'm just curious to know how much this bed is to make if you did it yourself? With the brackets and all. We are hiring someone to make this for us. We will be needing it to be about 5 inches taller as this bed will be what our son uses through High School, at least that is what we are planning for. I dont know anything about building and for the life of me I couldnt figure out how we were going to get it into his room (thought it would need to be built in his room) but then I saw the brackets which I cant figure out how many of those would be needed for this bed.

Thank you Ana!

The lumber cost me right at $57.00 to make it a full size bed. When we added the cost of screws, paint, and primer it was $120.00. We also increased the lumber from 14 2X4's to 20 2X4's and up to 6 2X6's.

I am building this bed (times 2) for two children that I am adopting. I am using an IKEA set of bed slats for the bed base just to make it easier on me. I don't have a table saw, only a circular saw.
Ana, thank you for the specs. I was a little intimidated about doing this on my own now I feel empowered!

Would you happen to know the weight limit? could an adult get up there with the child? maybe with more support under mattress and brace the legs better?

I get up there with my son some...granted we're not horse playing when I'm up there, but it does fine supporting my weight...and I'm definitely not considered skinny. We have 2X4 supports under the mattress every 6 to 8 inches or so. Just to give more support to the mattress and make me feel better.

I was wondering about the weight limit and had my brother-in-law, a structural engineer, determine the limits. It was around 1200 lbs by using the materials in the plans. You have to be careful to keep everything square as you build it. You can also attach one of the legs to the a stud in the wall to stabilize the bed if needed. These are just estimates so watching Sunday football with your buddies on the bed may not be realistic.

How sturdy is this? I've been reading on different sites about kids loft beds and most of them seem to use 4x4's for the legs and this one seems to have 2x4s? How sturdy is this bed? Does it wobble? Does it need to be attached to the wall? This will be for my 4 year old and we want to make sure this bad boy won't come down.

Thanks.

The bed is really sturdy for us...my 4 year old plays pretty hard on it. We used an addition 2X6 to brace the back wall between the legs just to add a little more strength to the frame. And we made sure the side was up against the wall....The side with the stairs. That meant we had to switch them around. However, it gave me a little bit more confidence that he wasn't just going to fall off the stair platform.

I just saw your list for making the full size. do you feel you have enough center support under the matress? I am planning on putting a center support, even with the cleats, to support the center more instead of just relying on the slats.

I honestly think that there is plenty of support there. We made sure we secured the cleats VERY good so that they won't come loose. Using the 2X4's to support the weight of the mattress seems really sufficient to me. The bed that we took down and replaced used 1X4's and we never had an issue with it. We cut the 2X4's used to brace the mattress to 56 inches long and it literally goes from one side board to the other so there is no worry about it slipping off if he or anyone else is bouncing around up there.

4x4s are kinda over kill for 150lbs of kids, now throw in a large dad and 2x4s look alittle scarry. Build the bed as advertised. If it's wobbly, sister(glue and screw another board to) the legs and bracing. I recomend lots of testing berfore finishing.

site looks great, I really enjoy all the details on the pictures. THANK YOU!! I was about to start from scratch tomorrow and your design helps me out alot. I still have to do some refiguring with heighth and width (full size).
... One thing maybe I didn't see but the lumber should always be UNTREATED if you are using it in the house. I saw one person mention about the cost of lumber. I hope they didn't buy treated.

***Treated lumber is designed for outdoor use only and can create a serious health hazard in an enclosed environment.***

I am in Texas and price that you gave is about right for me too.
Thanks for sharing.

What kind of boards did you use to make the bed? Obviously I could go crazy expensive with cherry or walnut but Id like to try to keep it around the $50. This is going to be my first project so I just need clarification on that. Thank you!

Err.....I believe we used pine. Make sure you call around for lumber prices...Lowe's and other big stores can be fairly expensive on their lumber. If you have a small lumber yard in your area, go in and get a quote on what you need. If they'll let you pick your own pieces out, get it there. Otherwise, take your quote to Lowe's. The one here matched the price for me and gave me an additional 10% off. That put my lumber at about $57.00. I would have preferred to use the lumber yard in town but, since I wasn't able to pick out the pieces I wasn't for sure going to get straight pieces without lots of knots. At Lowe's I was able to get the pieces I wanted. This was my first build as well :)

I'm interested in the finishing technique you used but can't find the post you refer to searching the site. Could you please link it here for me? Thanks in advance!

So, I'm in the middle of building this bed, I just need to finish the decking and stairs. First of all, I also invested much more than the $50 or so. Just the cost of lumber was over $100 in NC. 2x4's were almost $4 a piece and 2x6's were over $5! Crazy! However, I also bought a few extra 2x4's and a 1x12. I built a book shelf under the platform and I'm adding a brace down the middle under the mattress because I am using 1 in MDF that I had from another bed and a board across the back side on the bottom. I also added braces to the 2x6's. This bed is bomb proof. I haven't climbed up there yet, but there is no wobble when I shake it or when my daughter is up there, I just want it to last until college lol, so I went to extremes.

Building is a breeze! That part flew by, but oh my, painting it is taking forever! 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint= forever. I will be sure to post to the brag pages when I finish. One word of caution, maybe someone has a solution for this?! Do not strip a screw in a pocket hole! How do you fix that? Fortunately I got it in there all the way, but there's no taking that back out. Overall though, I'm very excited about the end results.

To remove that screw, you can either get drill bits alittle larger that the screw diameter (not the head dia) and drill out the head, the boad will beable to come off, and you can use vice grips to back it out, or use a screw remove tool(most auto parts stores and hardware store carry them) they look like drill bits that are backwards. Generally the first method has the advantage of most people have a drill and drill bits sutible for it.

I have no idea on the queen....I can tell you that a typical queen mattress is 60X80. I'd add an inch and a half or so to each measurement to give you some wiggle room for your mattress and just figure your boards from there. So instead of a 37 1/2 inch cut for the end boards I'd probably do a 61 1/2 or 62 inch cut. And I'd do the length at the 80 inch. I'm not sure if that'll help you any.

HI Ana...thank u for sharing this loft bed plan. My husband is going to make one for my son. I was gonna buy one at walmart for $230 tomorrow. Luckily I can across this plan. Thank you. I will send you a photo when he finished.

~ Nelda

Rather than making a wooden slat mattress support, would is be just as safe to use a metal frame? Also, I noticed some where a long the lines that y'all are in Alaska? I too am in Alaska so I would really like to know where you buy 2x4's for $2.00. Thanks

I need plans for this loft bed to make two of them in a L-shaped for my two little boys. Does anyone have plans for this? And if u do can u please email them to me and about how much u spent. I was thinking of adding slides to each bed too. Then later on making a clubhouse under one of them and also so storage for clothes and toys. I would also like to be able to some how build a small sofa and foldable table under the other with a built in tv stand. Any plans or ideas for all this? Please let me know. Thank you. Email me at j.jollyx6@yahoo.com

I need plans for a L-Shaped loft beds for my two little boys. One is 4, and other is 6 with down syndrome. I like the style of this loft and was thinking of putting the other bed along the side of the stairs to make it L shaped and they can share the stairs. Also need higher rails on top so not to fall out. Also was thinking of putting slides at bottom of each bed. Later I was thinking of adding storage for clothes and toys, and making one into a clubhouse under one loft bed and building a small sofa with a folding table and also a built in tv stand under the other loft bed so they can watch tv. If any one has any plans for L-Shaped loft beds for this one or any of the other ideas please email them to me and how much it cost. I am needing to build this ASAP and I need the plans and a material list. Thank you. j.jollyx6@yahoo.com

This will be my first build...can you tell me at what point do you sand and paint/stain this?? Before assembly, right? Not sure how that is supposed to work. Thanks!

Thank you so much for this and all the other amazing patterns you have freely shared! My question is, do you have any recommendations on building this bed without using a Kreg Jig? I don't have one yet and my daughter is all over me about building this bed ASAP! Can I just use really long wood screws on the butt joints on the ends? I think I can figure it out but don't want the whole thing falling down while my daughter is sleeping :)

Shanda

After it's built, how would you easily move it to another room or take it apart for moving? I love the bed, but we will be using it in an apartment and then probably moving it to a house after that....

The shopping list mentions 2 1/2" PH screws; the directions indicate using 1 1/2" and 2 1/2" PH screws. Which joints are okay with the 1 1/2" screws? IS it readily apparent as you build it?

It's a little confusing at first, but the setting on your Kreg jig will be set for 1 1/2" thick wood, which is the thickness of your 2x4 and 2x6 boards. So you are drilling 1 1/2" pocket holes. The screws you use will actually be 2 1/2" long pocket hole screws.

A general idea for building anything is to use a screw/nail double the thickness of your lumber. I haven't reviewed the plans but I would assume, which is not the best thing to do, that 1 1/2 is for 3/4 thickness and the 2 1/2 screws are for the 2x4/6 lumber

We put up our bed a couple of days ago after waiting a week for the poly smell to go away and my 4 year old son LOVES it. The only hiccup is that we made it as a full sized (thanks again Pammylaine) and our mattress was not available to measure since we were in the middle of moving and our household goods were in storage. With the full sized measurements the bed slats end up being 56 inches and our mattress is only 52 inches leaving a 4 inch gap that I worried little legs would slip through. We fixed this by making a high density foam bumper pillow to fill the gap since I am 9 days away from having a baby and don't have the time to modify the bed.

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