Rolling Rustic Wood Dresser

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Rolling Rustic Wood Dresser

Free plans to build a rolling dresser from ana-white.com

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

Heck, yeah, that's DIY!

 

And you can make it too!

This beautiful dresser was built by Whitney from Shanty2Chic from plans we worked on together.  It's also made from solid wood and PureBond Formaldehyde free plywood for a fraction of retail cost - not too shanty, eh?  Here's from Whitney:

Oh how I LOVE this dresser. If my son's room wasn't empty, I would be tempted to keep it downstairs in my own room! I was intimidated by the thought of building 6 drawers at first, but I mastered my own 'shanty' way of attaching the metal drawer slides and they work perfectly! I have given a detailed tutorial on how I attached them in my post. This might be my favorite build yet. Thanks for designing this with me Ana, and for once again helping me save hundreds of dollars!!



Whitney, this might be one of my favorite dressers every too!  I love the hardware you choose to accent the dresser!  Beautiful and inspiring, thank you for working with me on it!

Of course, if you want lots more photos and construction details, please visit Whitney over at Shanty2Chic.

And of course we got you covered with the step by step DIY plans!  Enjoy!

Shopping List: 

1 - sheet 3/4” plywood ripped into strips 15 3/4” wide referred to as 1x16 boards throughout this plan
3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
6 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long (MUST BE VERY STRAIGHT!!!!)
6 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1/4” plywood for drawer bottoms/back
6 - 16” euro style white drawer slides (bottom corner mount)
1 1/4” and 2 1/2” PH screws
1 1/4” finish nails
Knobs or handles
6” caster wheels

NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x10 boards are 9 1/4" wide to fit a 9 1/2" wide drawer opening. Measure the width of your 1x10s and adjust if necessary, allowing for an 1/8" gap around all sides of drawer faces.

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
nailer
sander
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above.
Cut List: 

2 - 1x16 @ 32 1/4”
6 - 1x2 @ 15 3/4”
1 - 1x16 @ 62 1/2”
4 - 2x2 @ 62 1/2”
6 - 2x2 @ 30”
4 - 2x2 15 3/4”
4 - 1x2 @ 29”
2 - 2x2 @ 41” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, longest point measurement)

DRAWERS
12 - 1x8 @ 26 1/2”
12 - 1x8 @ 16”
6 - 1/4” plywood 28” x 16” (tip: have 1/4” plywood ripped into 16” widths at hardware store)
6 - 1x10 @ 28 3/4”

Back is optional

Step 1: 

These spacers added will be where you attach the drawer slides. Attach level with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue. NOTE: You may wish to drill 3/4" PHs facing upward for attaching top and also 3/4" PHs facing forward for attaching front face frames in later steps.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Then attach top. Either use the predrilled pocket holes from step 1 and 1 1/4" PH screws or use finish nails and glue.

NOTE: You may wish to drill 3/4" PHs facing forward and backward for attaching face frames in step 3.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Build your face frames first, check for square, and then line up with the cabinet box and attach. You can attach with 2" finish nails AND GLUE or through pocket holes drilled in steps 1 and 2 with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4 Instructions: 

These guys are for your drawer slides. Attach with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Attach on underside with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 6 Instructions: 

These guys are to help take the weight off the center of the dresser and distribute it, and also to keep things square. You may feel you don't need them - I'm an overbuilding kinda gal :) Another option if you find your dresser needs additional center support (hey, you never know, you may be storing gold in there!) you can add and additional 5th wheel to the center.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Drawer time! It's super important that your drawers are square and measure 1" less than the overall interior width of the drawer opening. NOTE that some drawer slides may vary in clearance requirements, so always read through the drawer slide instructions before building drawer boxes.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Install drawers with the metal drawer slides.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Now the fun part! Attach faces, with even 1/8" gap around all sides. I do this by setting in place with 1/8" shims on bottom and sides and attaching with glue and a couple of 1 1/4" finish nails. Then I open the door and attach from inside with a few 1 1/4" screws to secure.

NOTE: Depending on your hardware, you may wish to attach hardware first to drawer face.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Final step is to add the wheels!

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 

Comments

Where do you find 2x2 wood? I was building another dresser and could only find 2x2 in oak in a 36" piece at the orange box store.

I ended up having to rip down 2x6s but that was in pine. I would love to find somewhere that sells 2x2 in hardwoods for good furniture like this.

Luv this design! Wondering... with a little tweeking.. these would make great cabinets in my new 'old world, modern' kitchen! I'm traditional old world my hubby is more modern... LOL. Dresser looks great!

I really like this, but would prefer legs instead of wheels. Looking at the design, I could make the 2x2's longer than 30", but the plywood is attached to them. I could maybe cut 4 2x2s at 3" long and then attach underneath?
Any suggestions? I'm new to this. :)

Definitely extend the 2x2s. If you cut short stubs, they would have no lateral support. It should not change how the plywood attaches, you'll just need to cut the lower rails 3" shorter.