Woven Back Bench

Free plans to build a woven back bench from Ana-White.com


Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!


Author Notes: 

It's time to build outdoor furniture!!! 

My friend and DIYer Extraordinaire Gina from Lady Goats has been wanting to build a bench with a basket weave pattern for a back.  I was so honored that she asked for my help in coming up with a plan that we could share with you!

About $30 and a day later .... this is what built!

Isn't Gina's bench just beautiful?

I love the woven wood look on back

But if you prefer an X back, no worries - just skip the added Y pieces!  

Of course we've got you covered with the free step by step plans.  But please take a second to go visit Gina at Lady Goats for lots more pictures and information on how she built her bench.

Thank you Gina!

Shopping List: 

3 - 2 x 4 studs
6 - 2 x 2 x 8
1 - 1 x 4 x 8 (furring strip)
1 - 1 x 2 x 8 (furring strip)
1 - 1 x 3 x 8 (furring strip)

measuring tape
safety glasses
hearing protection
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions shown in diagram
Cut List: 

2 - 2x4 @ 35" (backs - cut backs from these)
2 - 2x2 @ 23 1/4"
2 - 2x2 @ 16"
2 - 2x4 @ 16"
2 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 6 degrees off square)
3 - 2x4 @ 37"
2 - 2x2 @ 37"
4 - 2x2 @ 12 1/2"
2 - 2x2 @ 17 5/8" (ends cut to 45 degree points, longest point measurement)
4 - 2x2 @ 8 1/8" (one end cut to 45 degree point, longest point measurement)
8 - 2x2 @ 6 1/4" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degrees off square)
8 - 2x2 @ 3 5/8" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 45 degrees off square)
4 - 1x4 @ 40"
1 - 1x2 @ 37"

Step 1: 

Start by cutting the back legs out. I recommed cutting the long straight cuts with a circular saw, and then finishing the cuts with a handsaw or jigsaw, but you could make the entire cuts with a jigsaw as well. Just make sure you have the right blade, it's sharp, and you go slow and sand the cut edge well.

You'll need to cut two. Make sure you mark the boards as shown in diagram before cutting.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Next, add to the back legs the front legs, seat support, arm rest support and bottom stretcher. Make two and make sure they match. Easiest way is 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue but countersunk screws could work too. If using pocket holes, try hiding on underside whenever possible to prevent water pooling in your pocket holes.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Once you have the two legs done, join together with 2x4s. With the bench frame complete, let's set aside and work on the back.

Step 4 Instructions: 

I'd lay all the boards out first just to make sure everything fits. And then start assembling. For a painted finish, pocket holes on the back sides will work great.

TIP: Hide pocket holes on insides of the 2x2s - will get covered up in next step.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Fit your Xs and attach.

Step 6 Instructions: 

And then make up 8 of these little Y guys and attach in place. These are more decorative than anything, so a good outdoor glue could even be used to secure.

Step 7 Instructions: 

And then attach to back.

If you used pocket holes, I highly recommend filling any exposed holes with plugs.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Attach bottom stretcher to base.

Step 9 Instructions: 

And finally, add the seat slats on top.

These can be attached from underside with 2" screws and glue to hide screw holes.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Don't forget the arm rests! You can attach these from the underside with 2" screws and glue to hide any holes.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 


This looks like the perfect project for Mother's Day! I can't wait to get started. Thanks!

However, the PDF link doesn't seem to be working.

I have a serious obsession with benches and I totally want to build this one! Not sure when I can get to it, but I am pinning for sure! Thanks ladies! I love the beautiful back! And you make cutting the back legs look so doable!

I am trying to build this and am stuck with how to attach the cross pieces and the y pieces to the frame Pocket holes split the wood at the angles...I am thinking nails and glue but not sure if it will hold up. Am I just doing something wrong with the kreg jig? It looks gorgeous all dry fitted I just can't figure out how to attach it all...ideas??

Hi dinifam! Since these boards aren't structural, I'll teach you my cheat for when my 2x2s keep splitting. Set your jig for 3/4" stock instead of 11/2", and use 1 1/4" screws. This'll hold the boards very firmly in place while the glue dries, and provide some support. I don't use this method for structural boards, but use it frequently for decorative boards that split. Hope this helps!

Thanks Gina:)
I tried it on the second half of the back and it worked:) the other half I used nails and glue. I am just finishing it up now and it looks fantastic! Thanks for sharing ur cheat!

I am cutting the back now. I can't seem to get my 45 degree point cuts perfect which is throwing off the fit. Can someone help me with tips to measure, mark and cut the ends so the 45 degree cuts are perfectly center? i am using a miter saw but must be making my measurements wrong... The difference is minor but keeps all the pieces from fitting without a lot of filling or caulking. This will hopefully be a gift so i don't want to do that! Thank you

I tried this with a hand version and was horrible, but my compound mitre saw does it perfectly - it was a great investment since I have used it numerous times now, but if you're already using one, then I'm not sure!

I'd been looking for a bench to fit a spot between some new citrus trees. This fit the bill so I've taken it on as my challenge for the week. Almost done with the final build but not sure how to secure the seat slats. 2" screws won't do much through the 2x4s. Am I missing something? Any help is appreciated. Will post pics when done.

Any one find that the shopping list incorrectly lists the need for 1 1x4x8 furring strip when in fact you need 2 of these in order to cut the 4 seat planks? Not a huge deal, but It now requires an extra trip to the store. :-( I also had an extra 2x2 but that's good to have in case I screw up a cut or two. Measured everything tonight. Cutting tomorrow. And hopefully assembling it all on Wed, Thurs night. Fingers crossed.

You are correct! Amazing how you are the only one to point that out. This site is amazing but I find that is a problem on a lot of these plans. I will say if all it costs me for the plans is a 2nd trip to HD, I'm good with that!!

Hope your bench turned out like you visioned!

Could someone please enlighten me with regard to the furring boards and studs mentioned in the parts list? What are they, what are they used for and when in the plan are they meant to be used?

Thanks in advance.