Bedside Charging Table or Nighstand
Bedside Charging Table or Nighstand
Free plans for a bedside charging table or nightstand from ana-white.com
1 - 1x12 @ 10 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 12 feet long
1 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1/4" plywoof for back at least 21" x 31"
32" of edge moulding (for front top edge)
1/2" plywood for center of doors (or you could use 1/4" plywood on backs)
I used 1 1/4" and 1" pocket hole screws and 1 1/4" finish nails for fastening
3 sets of simple butt hinges (I used the smallest ones I could find)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
2 - 1x12 @ 27" (sides)
2 - 1x4 @ 29 1/2" (bottom footers)
2 - 1x12 @ 29 1/2" (shelves)
1 - 1x6 @ 29 1/2" (charging divider)
2 - 1x6 @ 32" (top)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 21 1/2" x 31"
1 - Edge moulding 32" long x 3/4" thick (for top front edge)
DOORS - Cut to fit! See last step
Okie-dok - I choose to build this way just because sometimes your 1x4 boards (and all 1x board for the matter) aren't as true to width as you'd like them to be! But no biggie, we can work around all this just by the order we build.
I started by attaching the two footers to the bottom with pocket holes. Of course you can use screws or nails or whatever you fancy!
I inset the front footer a teeny bit just to add interest. But when I did this, things got real tight with the jigsaw, and I had to do some very uncomfortable jigsawing. Don't be like me - cut your front footer out first, then attach it :)
Then just slap the bottom shelf on top.
If you are using pocket holes, make sure your pocket holes don't line right up on top of the footer boards. I did that ... I know, you are smarter than me, you won't do that.
Now place the top divider flush to the top. You can actually place just about anywhere - I choose the middle where the two top boards meet up.
Under that divider, place the remaining shelf. Make sure you are square all the way across and the shelf is level.
I attached front board flush to front, and then went back and added a piece of edge moulding to the face with nails and glue. It's the little things!
And then just hinged the top back board on.
Somewhere in these steps, you probably want to drill out holes for the cords too ....
Put a back on to keep the interior shelf contents in place - I just used a scrap piece of beadboard.
PS - If you want shelves in the interior cabinet, use 1x10s - you'll need about 30" for shelf.
And then finally the doors. I made my doors to fit. Each door I left about 1/8" clearance on all sides, so the door itself is 1/4" less in height and width than the opening.
For my doors, I used 1/2" plywood in the centers framed by 1x4 rails and stiles. I joined the 1x4s together into a frame with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Then I carefully cut out 1/2" plywood to exactly fit the openings, and drilled 1/2" pocket holes around the sides of the plywood. Then I attached the plywood to the inside of the frame with 1" pocket hole screws and glue. Very easy, very sturdy door - and with the 1/2" plywood in the middle, it helped stiffen up the door and will resist warping/expanding/contracting or otherwise behaving like wood.