9 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
7 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
*to frame the outside of the top, grab 3 more 2x4s
8 - 2x6 @ 27 3/8" (long point to short point, both ends cut at 10 degrees BEVEL)
3 - 2x4 @ 39 1/2" ( long point to long point, both ends cut NOT parallel at 45 degree BEVEL)
4 - 2x6 @ 7 7/8" (long point to long point both ends cut NOT parallel at 10 degrees off square)
2 - 2x6 @ 26"
4 - 2x6 @ 88"
5 - 2x4 @ 88"
cross supports 34" long - both ends beveled - one at 40 and one at 50 (you may be able to get away with both at 45 to make things easier)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Attach legs to base supports with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.
Attach remaining legs to base support.
Free plans for outdoor sawhorse table from Ana-White.com. Build using 2x4s and 2x6s!
Attach the angled stretchers between legs. Countersunk screws or pocket holes here.
And then the straight stretcher between the angled legs, centering. You can use countersunk screws or pocket holes here.
For a smooth tabletop, I recommend using 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach all the tabletop boards together. But for outdoor use, you can leave gaps in between for water drainage. If you leave 1/2" gap between the boards, ditch on 2x4 and it will all work out for you :)
Add your middle base support with screws and glue. If you've put everything together with pocket hole screws, no need to buy new screws - the 2 1/2" long ones will work here.
And then the cross supports. If your saw doesn't do 50 degree bevels, you may be able to get away with a 45, and just alter the position of the cross support on the stretcher/underside of the table.
Whitney added the 2x4 frame around the table for additional support - I love the way it looks! Just cut boards to length and attach.