21" Wall Kitchen Cabinets - Momplex Vanilla Kitchen

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21" Wall Kitchen Cabinets - Momplex Vanilla Kitchen

21" wall kitchen cabinet plans from ana-white.com

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

Author Notes: 

So I have a just terrible confession to make ...

When we got to the wall cabinets for the Momplex Vanilla Kitchen, I got so busy with the building part .... that I neglected the photographing part.  I am so so so sorry ... they just were so easy to make and went so fast, before we knew it, they were all done!  And not a single building photo to share with you.

It's a good thing we have another kitchen to build on the other side, and I promise, I'll take some construction photos.

So we are cool?  I'm forgiven?

We kept things simple for the Momplex Vanilla Kitchen wall cabinets.  The wall cabinets are two 36" double door cabinets, an above the range cabinet and the two 21" wide wall cabinets (plans for these guys follow).

We ordered the doors from Cabinet Now, but other than that, these wall cabinets are just a simple box with a face frame, screwed to the wall.  You will be shocked at how easy wall cabinets are to build!

Plans for the 21" wall cabinet follow - check them out!

Hope you and yours have a wonderful Holiday!

XO The Whites

Shopping List: 

8 feet of 1x2s for face frame
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 10-1/4" wide
1x4 or plywood scrap for the back support
1/4" plywood for back
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails for attaching back
edge banding for finishing shelf fronts
shelf pins for adding shelves

DOOR and 1-1/4" concealed hinges for FACE FRAMES

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
table saw
nailer
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above
Cut List: 

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" x 30" (Sides)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" x 19" (Top/Bottom)
1 - 3/4" plwyood OR 1x4 @ 19" (Back Top Support)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 30" x 20-1/2" (Back)
2 - 1x2 @ 30" (Face Frame)
2 - 1x2 @ 18" (Face Frame(
Shelves should be cut to fit depending on attaching and if you use edge banding

FULL OVERLAY DOOR SIZE 20-1/2" x 29"

Step 1: 

First, make up your sides by drilling shelf pin holes on the insides for adjustable shelves (I use a Kreg Shelf Pin Jig) - it's much easier to do this now than after assembly - and drill 3/4" pocket holes facing the front for attaching face frames in later steps (I use a Kreg Jig for drilling pocket holes).

For taller shelves, you would simply just cut the sides taller.  For deeper shelves, you would simply adjust your plywood rip width.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Next attach the two sides together with the top and bottom.

NOTE: Also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward for attaching face frames on top and bottom.

Step 3 Instructions: 

The back support is very important because you will use it to hang the wall cabinets on the wall. We used prefinished plywood for the plywood, and simply used the scrap leftover for the back support (it ended up being about 3" wide). A 1x4 would also do the trick but just don't forget, you will be able to see this board when the cabinet is open.

TIP: For especially wide cabinets or cabinets with expected heavy loads, a second bottom support is recommended for additional attachment to studs in walls.

Step 4 Instructions: 

The back is attached with glue and 3/4" finish nails to all fixed shelves, sides, top and bottom, and back support.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Build the face frame seperately with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Then attach using the predrilled pocket holes on the outsides of the cabinet, with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 6 Instructions: 

We cut all of our shelves 1/4" less in width and depth than the top and bottom to allow for shelf pins and adding edge banding.

You can see how we added edge banding here.

Step 7 Instructions: 

For the doors, we opted for full overlays with concealed face frame hinges. The end goal of the cabinets with full overlay doors is a 1/2" reveal of the face frames when done. So this means 1/2" gap to bottom and top and 1/4" side to side (since a neighboring cabinet will also have a 1/4" gap).

I'll be sharing a post soon on how we hung the cabinets - so stay tuned for that!

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Kitchen Plans: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 

Comments

I am so inspired to build my own cabinets for a much needed kitchen remodel! Can you share what kind of wood you chose for the doors you ordered and how happy you are with the results?

Hi and thank you!

Of course - we choose a paint grade mixed hardwood frame (less expensive because they use scraps up) with an MDF raised panel - the doors were very reasonable - about $700 for the entire kitchen - for raised panel high quality doors. I'll be putting a post out on the doors in the next bit.

Happy Holidays!
Ana