Alexia Bench

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Alexia Bench

Free plans to build a Pottery Barn vintage style bench from Ana-White.com. Bench has two drawers.

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

Happy Friday friends and fellow building addicts!

Do you have projects planned for this weekend?  Forgive me if I add another to your list!

My friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic really loved this bench from Pottery Barn ... but not the $600 (even on sale) price tag.

So she asked me to work with her on some plans.  And this is what we came up with:

Isn't it just darling?  It would be cute on the end of a bed too!

Here's from Whitney:

I loved making this cute little bench!  The drawers are perfect storage, and it's also a great project if you are new to making drawers and attaching drawer slides.  I gave some more tips on how I attach my drawer slides in my post... Really they are much easier than they look!  The whole thing cost me around $125 to build, which is much better than the $600 Pottery Barn wants for theirs before shipping.  I like our version better anyway ;-)!  And, I think it's perfect for any room in the house!

Thanks Whitney!

Before we get to the plans, please take a second to check out lots more photos, building and finishing details over at Shanty2Chic.

Plans follow!

XO Ana + Family

Shopping List: 

1 - 2x2 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x12 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
2 - 1x3 @ 10 feet long
3 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x8 @ 4 feet long
2x4 sheet of 1/4” plywood for drawer bottoms
2 sets of 15” drawer slides (euro bottom corner mounts)
2 knobs or handles

1 1/4 inch finish nails
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Cut List: 

4 - 2x2 @ 16-1/2” (legs)
2 - 1x12 @ 13-3/4” (sides)
1 - 1x12 @ 44” (back)
2 - 1x2 @ 44” (front trim)
1 - 1x2 @ 7-1/2” (front center trim)
1 - 1x3 @ 44” (front base trim)
1 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2” (center drawer cleat)
2 - 1x3 @ 13 3/4” (side drawer cleats)

DRAWER
4 - 1x6 @ 15”
4 - 1x6 @ 19-1/8” (cut to fit!)
2 - 1/4” plywood @ 20 5/8” x 15” (cut to fit!)
2 - 1x8 @ 21 3/8” (cut to fit!)

TOP
3 - 1x6 @ 47”
2 - 1x3 @ 16 1/2”
1 - 1x4 @ 48 1/2”

Step 1: 

Start by building the two sides. Note that the 1x12 boards are expected to be 11-1/4" wide - measure yours and confirm - if not, adjust plans as necessary.

NOTE: You may wish to drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the 1x12s for attaching the bench top in later steps.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Add the back to the bench, same as you did the side panels.

NOTE: You may wish to drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the 1x12s for attaching the bench top in later steps.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach the two 1x2 front trim pieces to the bench legs. Note that the drawer faces (1x8s) are expected to be 7-1/4" wide - measure and confirm - the spacing between these 1x2s should be 1/4" more in with than your 1x8 drawer faces.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Add the center divider between the drawers.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Then finish off the base with a decorative 1x3, cut out with a jigsaw.

Step 6 Instructions: 

These cleats are for attaching drawer slides. Use pocket holes for attaching center cleat and 1-1/4" finish nails for attaching side cleats.

NOTE: you can also add a 5th leg to the center under the center cleat if you find it necessary for heavier loads.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Drawers should always be build to the dimensions of the opening and also the drawer slides you are using.

Make sure you install the drawer inset 3/4" to allow for the drawer face (next step).

Step 8 Instructions: 

The drawer face can be nailed on from outside or screwed on (1-1/4" fastners) from inside. It may be easier to attach your knob or handle before attaching the face to the drawer.

Leave an 1/8" gap around all sides of the drawer face.

Step 9 Instructions: 

For the bench top, use 3/4" pocket holes to attach the 1x6s together. Then add the end pieces, and finally the back piece. Attach to top of bench by either using pocket holes drilled facing upward in the 1x12 sides and back, or through the top.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

Do you know where I can find 15' drawer slides?? The guy at Lowe's said they only sell them in even numbers like 14', 16" and 18". I bought the 16" ones but after looking at all the pictures I think I need shorter ones or I'll have to adjust the plan, and that just makes my head hurt thinking about it:-)

Hi Bhoppy,

I think you would be fine with the 14" drawer slides. In Whitney's post, it looks like the slides were slightly shorter than the drawer length - I'd go with 14".
:)
Joanne

I'm in the process of building this bench. A couple of issues with these plans you should know. First, the shopping list is wrong, you need to buy two 1x2 6' boards, not one. Second, if you pocket screw the sides to the legs flush, the screws will split through the legs. Recess the side panels by a 1/4 inch and the screws will burrow in properly. Lastly, the plans tell you how to cut the apron details, but not the top rails...it took me a while to figure it out. I'll post pictures when I'm done.