Taylors Coffee Table
Free plans to build a pottery barn knock off taylor coffee table from Ana-White.com
1 - 4x4 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 12 feet long
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 @ 9' stud length or 10 feet
1 - 1/2" thick plywood panel @ 24" x 48" (quarter sheet)
2 -1/2" pocket hole screws and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (if you kept the 1x3s)
1" or longer finish nails (for nailing bottom shelf plywood down)
4 - caster wheels and screws to attach (if not included)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
NOTE: Instead of 1x3s, Whitney used 2x3s which does not affect the plan (actually makes it stronger) but many of you cannot source 2x3s locally. If you do make this change, you will need to measure and cut a few boards that tie in to the 1x3s (step 2).
4 - 4x4 @ 13-1/2" (legs)
2 - 1x3 @ 17" (short aprons)
2 - 1x3 @ 41" (long aprons)
2 - 2x2 @ 21-1/2"
1 - 2x4 @ 21-1/2"
2 - 2x2 @ 41"
2 - 2x4 @ 8-1/2"
1 - 1/2" plywood @ 48" x 24"
2 - 2x2 @ 17"
1 - 2x4 @ 20"
4 - 2x6 @ 50"
2 - 2x2 @ 50"
Attach 1x3s (or 2x3s if you are using) to the four legs. For 1x boards, use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. For 2x boards, use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws to attach.
Attach bottom supports - this will support the bottom shelf plywood. Best way is pocket hole screws - if you are screwing into 1x boards (used 1x3s for sides) use 3/4" setting on pocket hole jig and 1-1/4" pocket holes.
If you use 3/4" plywood for the bottom you don't need the 2x2 supports.
Build these "T" pieces first, then attach to the legs and bottom.
Notch out with a jigsaw the bottom shelf and attach to the bottom with finish nails and glue.
Attach top supports and end aprons to legs.
Instead of the 2x4 down the center as pictured, Whitney liked using 2 - 2x2s spaced between the 2x6s to make it look more balanced - and I'd have to agree.
Build the tabletop first with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and wood glue. Then attach to base with through aprons and center undermount support with 2-1/2" screws (you can use pocket hole screws so you don't have to go out and buy special screws just for this step).
Attach caster wheels to bottom of the legs.
For finishing details - please visit Shanty2Chic