1 - sheet 3/4" plywood ripped into strips of your cabinet depth (we choose 10-1/4") - you'll use about 3/4 of the plywood for this cabinet* (save scraps for using as supports)
1/2 sheet of 1/4" plywood*
2 - 1x2 @ 6' (to be safe, you may want to purchase one at 8')
1 - 1x3 @ 27"
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails(for nailing back on)
*Used prefinished plywood
NOTE: We choose a cabinet depth of 12" overall INCLUDING the doors, face frame and backs, so we ripped our plywood to 10-1/4". You can choose a different depth, just make sure you consistently use the same depth from cabinet to cabinet.
2 - 3/4" plywood 10-1/4" x 30" (sides)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" x 43" (top and bottom)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 44-1/2" x 30" (back)
1 - 1x4 or plywood scrap 43" long (inside support)
2 - 1x2 @ 27"
1 - 1x3 @ 27"
2 - 1x2 @ 45"
Same as top and bottom, but cut down 1/4" on front and ends to allow for edge banding and shelf pins
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
First step is to build the basic box of the cabinet. We do this with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
We also like to attach our face frames with pocket holes, so we drill 3/4" pocket holes along the outside front edges of the sides, top and bottom. Neighboring cabinets will hide - or for an end cabinet, you add a piece of 1/4" plywood that is finished to match the doors and face frames.
Next, we use a scrap piece of plywood from ripping the sides to create a top support. This board is used for hanging the cabinet on the wall.
45" wall cabinet plans
We then attach the back with 3/4" finish nails and glue.
All the pieces up to this point we use prefinished plywood for. That way nothing has to be finished inside the cabinet!
Next, we build the face frame using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then we attach face frames with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws through the predrilled holes from step 1.
For adjustable shelves, we drill shelf pin holes inside the cabinet (and for longer cabinets like this one, also on the inside of the 1x3 center on the face frame). The shelves themselves are the same size as the top and bottom of the cabinet, trimmed down 1/4" in width and length to allow for front edge banding and the shelf pins.
For full overlay doors that standard hinge on the outsides, this is the door sizes you would build or order. If you want the doors to open to the same side, the doors would be 21-3/4" and 22-1/4" (using 1-1/4" overlay hinges).