Large Henry Desk
build a pottery barn hendrix inspired desk - free plans from ana-white.com
3 - 1x4 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long
3 - 1x2 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long
1- 1x6 @ 3 feet long
2- 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long
24"x96" pine project panel
1-1/4” and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
Handle or knob
Optional decorative vise
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
2 - 2x4 @ 63-1/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (top aprons, front and back)
1 - 1x4 @ 70-1/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (back base support)
2 - 1x6 @ 16-1/4” - (back vertical supports)
4 - 2x6 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (legs)
4 - 1x4 @ 21” (side aprons and base supports)
2 - 1x4 @ 28-7/8” - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (side cross supports)
1 - 2x6 @ 30-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (decorative front leg)
3/4" thick tabletop or pine project panel @ 24" x 83-1/2"
2 - 1x2 @ 24” (side top trim)
Cut front top trim to fit - angle will be 10 degrees
Attach front / back aprons to legs, flush on top and legs, with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. The two should match perfectly.
Make sure you also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the tabletop in later steps on the apron insides.
On the back, attach the back supports, this time use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws since these boards are 1x stock.
Attach the front and back panels together with the 1x4 boards using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Trim top off the cross supports and glue and nail to the side supports with 1-1/4" fastners (I used staples).
Attach top, flush to front, equal overhangs on ends. Attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws predrilled through the aprons in step 1.
Attach false front leg with glue (I just clampled and glued but you could also throw a few 2-1/2" screws in from the back side).
Trim out ends with 1x2s, flush to top.
Trim front and back out with 1x2s.
For the vise, I used pipe fittings and screwed a wood dowel in. Those are all 3/4" pipe fittings.
I did not do the drawer so instead just put a handle on to get the look.