Large Henry Desk

Difficulty
Intermediate
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build a pottery barn hendrix inspired desk - free plans from ana-white.com

One of my favorite projects I've built of recent is this workbench style desk -

Not only do I love how it turned out, and how inexpensive it was to make (it's just 2x and 1x boards!), but how easy it was to build!  In fact, I built this desk with a baby just a few weeks old!  All by myself, since the hubs was busy babysitting.

Having the right tools definitely helps, but that doesn't mean your tools have to be expensive.

A Ryobi drill with a cordless circular saw and battery and charger is just $79!  I used my Ryobi drill to make this desk.

Ryobi also just came out with a cordless stapler that will staple up to 1-1/2" staples.  I used that to attach the trim.  I use the stapler quite a bit for smaller projects - holds better than a nail.

I loved this desk so much, I wanted to also share with your plans for the larger, 85" desk.  I envy you if you get to build it!

Plans follow!

And also check out the small desk plans here.

Enjoy!

XO Ana + Family

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

3 - 1x4 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long
3 - 1x2 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long
1- 1x6 @ 3 feet long
2- 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 pine or whitewood boards 8 feet long
24"x96" pine project panel
1-1/4” and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” staples
Wood glue
Handle or knob
Optional decorative vise

Cut List

2 - 2x4 @ 63-1/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (top aprons, front and back)
1 - 1x4 @ 70-1/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (back base support)
2 - 1x6 @ 16-1/4” - (back vertical supports)
4 - 2x6 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (legs)
4 - 1x4 @ 21” (side aprons and base supports)
2 - 1x4 @ 28-7/8” - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (side cross supports)
1 - 2x6 @ 30-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (decorative front leg)
3/4" thick tabletop or pine project panel @ 24" x 83-1/2"
2 - 1x2 @ 24” (side top trim)
Cut front top trim to fit - angle will be 10 degrees

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Attach front / back aprons to legs, flush on top and legs, with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. The two should match perfectly.

Make sure you also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the tabletop in later steps on the apron insides.

Step 2

On the back, attach the back supports, this time use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws since these boards are 1x stock.

Step 3

Attach the front and back panels together with the 1x4 boards using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Trim top off the cross supports and glue and nail to the side supports with 1-1/4" fastners (I used staples).

Step 5

Step 6

Attach false front leg with glue (I just clampled and glued but you could also throw a few 2-1/2" screws in from the back side).

Step 7

Trim out ends with 1x2s, flush to top.

Step 8

Trim front and back out with 1x2s.

Step 9

For the vise, I used pipe fittings and screwed a wood dowel in. Those are all 3/4" pipe fittings.

Step 10

I did not do the drawer so instead just put a handle on to get the look.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

Gordon_Shumway

Tue, 04/08/2014 - 20:40

What is the vise used for on this desk?

The desk looks great just like everything else here.

Edit: Ok so I just went to PB's site and it says " Details like a faux vise and an asymmetrical drawer lend authenticity" So I guess its some peoples version of Authenticity.

angelina.davydova

Wed, 04/09/2014 - 11:35

cool desk!! I am a newbie, and still a bit confused with inches and feet :)) Since I live in Europe here they sell wood in cm:))

jkeeter

Sun, 03/22/2015 - 17:38

Would love to know what stain you used as well. It looks fantastic and still has a rustic quality.

jkeeter

Sun, 03/22/2015 - 17:38

Would love to know what stain you used as well. It looks fantastic and still has a rustic quality.

Mark33319

Thu, 05/28/2015 - 11:01

I would like to make this desk look a bit weathered/dated with a coastal look... Does anyone have any ideas or directions for staining to achieve this effect?

Thanks, Mark

kay h

Thu, 11/04/2021 - 20:33

I’m very excited to build this desk! Do you have recommendations on how to add a large drawer (like you do in the X desk with drawer plans)? I’m tempted to use that method, but worry about sacrificing the structure of the long front apron