Saving Alaska Farmhouse Canopy Bed

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Saving Alaska Farmhouse Canopy Bed

DIY Farmhouse bed by Ana-White.com

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

Author Notes: 

Happy Friday DIY Friends!

I have some great news to share with you today!  

DIY Network will be airing our Saving Alaska pilots this Sunday July 13, at 5:00 and 5:30 PM!!!

Please tune in, DVR it if you can't, tell your friends, your Mom, your cousins, your cousin's cousins - this is a pilot, and whether it goes or not depends on ratings - on you! - so please tune in!  

I know I can count on you for support!!!  

I'll be live tweeting again during the show - you can join the conversation by adding #savingalaska to your tweets. 

When I found out in one of the HGTV/DIY Network pilot episodes that I would be building a bed, I knew it must be a farmhouse bed.  

Since the ceilings in this episode are very tall (guess what this room used to be?  Don't spoil it if you've seen the episode, please!) I added a sturdy canopy to the bed to bring structure to the room and show off the loftiness.

I loved how this room turned out so much, my cheeks hurt the next day from smiling!  You know that feeling when you DIY something - it's elating, empowering, unexplainable, awesome!

The bed is so sturdy too!!!  And we loved how simple it was to build.  It took longer to paint it than build it!

I'm sharing the plans with you below, I hope you enjoy them and find them useful!

See you Sunday!!!

XO Ana + Family

Shopping List: 

4- 3x3 posts @ 80" (we purchased these from a specialty woodworking store - you could also use 4x4s, but will need to adjust the rest of the boards to 2x4s and their cut lengths)
2 - 2x3 @ 10 feet long (or rip a 2x6 down)
2 - 2x3 @ 8 feet (use on sideboards - can rip a 2x6 down)
1 - 1x4 @ 5 feet
4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet
1 - 1x3 @ 10 feet
4 - 1x3 @ 8 feet (use on sideboards)
2 - 1x12 @ 8 feet
4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
1 - 3/4" plywood - full sheet, hardwood recommended or MDF for paint grade if desired

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Cut List: 

4- 3x3 posts @ 80" (we purchased these from a specialty woodworking store - you could also use 4x4s, but will need to adjust the rest of the boards to 2x4s and their cut lengths)
4 - 2x3 @ 59" (headboard/footboard boards)
1 - 1x4 @ 59" (headboard trim)
2 - 1x3 @ 59" (footboard trim)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 59" x 32" (headboard panel)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 59" x 11-1/4" (footboard panel)
4 - 1x2 @ 65-1/2" (ends beveled at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement - cut these to fit!)
4 - 1x2 @ 4" (ends beveled at 45 degrees NOT parallel, long point measurement - cut these to fit!)
2 - 1x12 @ 81" (sideboards)
4 - 1x3 @ 81" (sideboard trim)
2 - 2x3 @ 81" (sideboard canopy)

MATTRESS SUPPORT
2 - 2x4 @ 84-1/2"
2 - 2x4 @ 56"
cut center support legs to fit

Step 1: 

We used our Kreg Jig set on the 1-1/2" setting to drill pocket holes on each end of the 2x3 boards, and then attached with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Hide the top PH screws on top, and the bottom ones on the bottom.

Step 2 Instructions: 

We then attached the 1x4 decorative trim board underneath the bottom 2x3 from step 1 with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. We drilled pocket holes on the ends and top to attach to both legs and 2x3.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Next, we drilled 3/4" pocket holes around the top and side edges of the back of the headboard panel. Then we attached the headboard panel to the legs and the 2x3 board. Then we went back and added a few nails through the 1x4 into the plywood panel for extra hold.

Step 4 Instructions: 

We measured and cut the 1x2 trim to fit and attached around the 2x3 with 1-1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Step 5 Instructions: 

The footboard is built the same as the headboard, just a smaller panel, and 1x3 trim on the panel instead of the 1x4. Follow the same steps as for the headboard.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Trim the footboard out as the headboard was trimmed out.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Attach trim to the siderails. We used glue and 1-1/4" finish nails.

Don't glue the siderails to the headboard and footboard - you'll need to disassemble to move into the room.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes on the tops of the 2x3 and attach to the footboard and headboard.

We finished the bed in one piece, in the room, but you may want to finish it in pieces, then move into the room and assemble it.

Step 9 Instructions: 

The supports don't need finishing. We built it using 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. For extra support the center legs are the ticket.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Room: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

Lovely bed, Ana. :) So happy for you and all the people you'll reach on national television! We're going to have a hand-built revolution, I think. =D (We don't have cable; will the shows broadcast online?)

Yvonne @ sunnysideup-stairs.blogspot.com

We also do not have cable and am wondering if it will be online at any point. Congrats on the show!!

Marion B.

We also do not have cable and am wondering if it will be online at any point. Congrats on the show!!

Marion B.

Just watched your show and loved it. The bedroom came out amazing. However, there isn't another show at 5:30 :( . Instead Rehab Addict is on.

Silly question perhaps... Is this for a double or queen?  I would like to make it for a double bed and add curtains on a track or a rod for my son who has sensory issues.  Thanks in advance for your reply!

Oh! :(. My son really likes it.  I am not that great at altering plans for a double.  Does anyone have all the measurements for a double using 4x4 posts?  Much appreciated for the help!

I was wondering if there was a way to make this with bed without using screws since I want to be able to dissassemble and reassemble it a few times over the next few years due to work related moves.  I recently made a bunkbed for my boys from Ana's wonderful plans and it can be disasembled and reassembled using bolts and nuts.  I worry that unscrewing and screwing will weaken the fastening over time.  Or maybe there is a way to do it with hangers or straps?  Of course if I could have it all, I would make it so you cannot see the bolts at all!!!

Thanks,

 

Sal

I was wondering if there was a way to make this with bed without using screws since I want to be able to dissassemble and reassemble it a few times over the next few years due to work related moves.  I recently made a bunkbed for my boys from Ana's wonderful plans and it can be disasembled and reassembled using bolts and nuts.  I worry that unscrewing and screwing will weaken the fastening over time.  Or maybe there is a way to do it with hangers or straps?  Of course if I could have it all, I would make it so you cannot see the bolts at all!!!

Thanks,

 

Sal

I was also wondering if there is a way to build this piece so that it can be disassembled later when moving? Or is it already capable of being un-screwed easily? Thank you! Also, if anyone has any modification recommendations to avoid the use of a mitre saw I would appreciate it! 

 

-Jacq

The plan appears to be for a full since the interior measurements where the box spring will go are 56" a full size mattress is 54" a queen size mattress is 60" So a queen size box spring will not sit down inside the frame.