4. Hanging Walls
The walls are much easier than the ceiling, but you'll have more openings and boxes to deal with. Start by marking all stud and box locations on the floors. I also like to mark any no nail zones - like large ducting or venting pipes - on the floor just to be extra safe.
Start by hanging the upper portion of the wall. If your ceiling is uneven, you can snap a line 48" down from the ceiling, and then follow that line with the bottom edge of your drywall.
I mark stud locations after hanging the sheet because I can just line the T-Square up with a stud, and mark, and then screw off.
Screws should be placed every 12" for walls, and again, screws need to be just below the drywall surface not breaking the paper.
Drywall right over doors and openings, and then go back and cut the opening out with a rotozip or keyhole saw. You want to minimize joints over doorways, as this is a high stress area, and the seam may crack from the doors being opened and closed.
Hang the lower portion next, using the roller lift tools to lift the drywall up so it meets the upper sheet. If you have to trim drywall widths because your walls are not quite 8 feet, cut so the cut edge is at the floor.
For electrical boxes, do as you did the ceiling - mark placement of the boxes and then cut out with either a keyhole saw or rotozip. If using the rotozip, again, just put a few loose screws in, rotozip out your boxes, and then finish screwing off the full sheet of drywall.
For the lower portion, keep the bottom row of screws on the bottom plate to minimize mudding later on. This all gets covered by your baseboard.
For corners, if you are bullnosing, cut the corners to the ends of the studs, not overlapping the drywall, so the outside edges of the drywall do not meet.
The bullnose trim will not fit otherwise.
You can do this - just keep at it and do a good job, and you'll be amazed at how much work gets done pretty easily!