Y Leg Table
A modern style table, featuring a unique Y leg design and extra support in the center.
1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF, full 4×8 Sheet
5 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long (preferably hardwood for added strength)
1 1/4″ screws
2 1/2″ screws
1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 66″ x 36″ (Tabletop)
2 – 1×3 @ 36″ (End Supports)
4 – 1×3 @ 61″ (Length Supports)
4 – 1×3 @ 21 3/8″ (Leg Tops)
4 – 2×2 @ 33″ (Both ends at 30 degrees off square, parallel to each other)
4 – 2×2 @ 16 1/4″ (Both ends at 30 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other)
Begin by attaching the end supports to the underside of the table with 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Then attach all of the length supports.
With the remaining support board, taper the ends as shown above and attach to the center support with glue and 3″screws predrilled and coutnersunk or with pocket hole screws.
From the 1x3s @ 21 3/8″ carefully mark and cut out this pattern. All angles are at 45 degrees.
Build the legs as shown above. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue.
Attach the leg bases to the legs as shown above. Note that two legs will be mirror images of the other two. Use 2 1/2″ Screws and glue.
Fit the legs into the table as shown above. Predrill holes and attach with 1 1/4″ screws. Omit glue to make the table easy to disassemble. Add cork pads to the bottoms of the table legs to help even out the table and protect floors.
Thank you Pudgy Bunny for suggesting this project, and to everyone else who has suggested projects. Can’t wait to see this table built! Here’s to a bright color! Have a great weekend. Ana
Library Console Table
This library console table features two large shelves that are angled to keep books easily in place. Features a top shelf and curved sides.
Thank you Mizz Frizz for your request. And thank you most of all for your patience. I've had this plan drawn up for weeks now, intending to find the time to build and blog it, but you know what happens. Dishes, dinner, . . . you know the drill, it just seems there is never enough time to get everything done! And this little library console table may never get done. By me, anyway. Sign. . . .
1 – 1×12 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×10 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1 1/4″ Screws
1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws or 2 5/8″ Trim Screws
Wood Glue, Wood filler and other finishing supplies
2 – 1×10 @ 6″ (Curved Fronts)
2 – 1×2 @ 33″ (Back Legs)
2 – 1×2@ 25″ (Front Legs)
4 – 1×2 @ 12″ (Sides)
2 – 1×2 @ 6″ (Top Sides)
4 – 1×2 @ 36 1/2″ (Front/Top Supports)
1 – 1×10 @ 39″ (Top)
2 – 1×10 @ 35″ (Backs of Shelves)
2 – 1×10 @ 11 1/2″ (Sides of shelves, cut to the width of your 1×12 boards)
2 – 1×12 @ 36 1/2″ (Shelf Bottoms)
From the 2 1×10 pieces 6″ long, draw out a pattern as shown above and carefully cut out with a jigsaw. It’s a good idea to use the first one you cut out as a pattern for the second. Clamp the two cut pieces together and sand the cut edges until the two pieces match.
Once your curved ends are cut out and sanded, lay out the end pieces as shown above. If you have a Kreg Jig™, predrill pocket holes. Otherwise, carefully glue and predrill holes with a countersink bit, and attach with 2 5/8″ trim screws. Clamps will really help out during this stage. You will need to build two of these. Make sure the two ends that you build match and are square.
Attach the two legs together with the top supports as shown here. Use either pocket holes or the trim screws countersunk and glue.
Now attach the top to the sides as shown above. Simply screw through the top supports (not shown in diagram) into the underside of the top. Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue.
The front supports will get attached exactly like the top supports in step 3.
Shelf Sides and Back
On this step you need to measure the width of your 1×12 and adjust the cuts on the sides (the triangular shaped pieces) so the bottom (measurement shown at 11 1/2″) is the same as your 1×12 width. Cut the end pieces from a 1×10, with 9 1/2″ shown as the width of the 1×10. If your 1x10s are slightly less, it will not matter, as the back is also a 1×10. Attach with screws and glue.
Attach the shelf bottom shelf sides and back with screws and glue. Outside edges should be flush.
Position the shelves inside the frame. The front can rest on the front supports. Use a level to ensure that the sides are level. Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue to attach the shelves to the sides.
Fill all of your exposed holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply a second coat as needed. Sand with 120 grit sandpaper. Remove all sanding residue with a vacuum followed with a damp cloth. Apply primer (for painting) or wood conditioner (for staining) as instructed by the manufacturer, followed with paint or stain and a top coat as needed.
Thank you MIZZFRIZZ and everyone else who takes their time to request plans. I am listening, and hopefully, will be able to tackle lots more reader requests in the next bit. Have a great day, appreciate your support!
Cube CPU Cart
Roll this cute and functional CPU Cube cart under your desk to store CPU and other office items in style. Also could be used as an end table or even nightstand.
Thank you to everyone who has been contributing posts and plans to our site. I've been a little extra busy of late, and I can't tell you how much I appreciate you sharing your work. I know the system we have in place is not user friendly for contributing (so sorry to those of you who submit brag posts or plans and they don't go through) and I am working long long long hours to create a system that we can all use with ease, and most importantly, spend less time trying to find the plans, and more time actually building them!
Like this plan, for example:
We are in the middle of putting an extra desk in my tiny office, and I'm thinking, how can I add more storage? I really wanted a cart that rolls under a floating desktop, and found tons of inspiration from Pottery Barn Teen's Stuff Your Stuff CPU Cart. But because of other not so fun stuff = less time to actually build :( sign, I didn't get a chance to build it.
But here is the equation that I like: better blog = more building time :) And that's why we are all here, right? Because we all love to make sawdust fly.
Just wanted to give you a quick tour of this little guy, fondly called the CPU Cube Cart. It's really designed for the CPU, but you could put just about anything in there. I love how PB Teen puts Magazine Caddies in theirs. Cubbies are sized for DVDs and a printer could go on top.
1 – 1/2 Sheet of 3/4″ thick MDF or Plywood
1 – 1×8 @ 8 feet long
4 Caster Wheels
2″ screws or 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
paint and finishing supplies
3 – 1×8 @ 19 1/2″ (Cubby Partitions)
2 – 1×8 @ 6 3/4″ (Cubby Shelves)
2 – 3/4″ plywood or MDF @ 19 1/4″ x 21″ (partitions and side)
1 – 1×8 @ 12″ (Long Shelf)
2 – 3/4″ plywood or MDF @ 17″ x 21″ (top and bottom)
Screw 2 1x8s Together
Screw 2 of the 1×8 boards @ 19 1/2″ long together. Either use 2″ screws countersunk and glue or pocket hole screws.
Mark the boards from step 1 on the insides down and up 6″ from the bottom and top. Then place your shelves and screw in place.
Attach the center partition to the cubbies as shown above.
And add the remaining 1×8 board to the back. Well, I take that back. There is one more . . .
Attach the last 1×8 as shown above. 2″ screws and wood glue or pocket hole screws. If you don’t have a Kreg Jig™, you will need to toenail one screw or nail into the middle outside corner.
Top and Bottom
Attach the top and bottom to the shelves as shown above. Keep flush to the shelf side.
Attach the last remaining side as shown above. Use glue and 2″ screws or 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Finish with the caster wheels. If your wheels do not come with screws, you may need to purchase appropriately sized screws. Keep the screws under 3/4″ long to prevent your screws tips from poking out.
Fill all holes with wood filler. Let dry and sand and finish as desired.
BTW does anyone else think this could double as a modern style end table?