Hello! I’m Ana, a mother and homemaker from Alaska.
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posted by Ana White

Free easy plans to build No Sew Upholstered Stools inspired by Pottery Barn Caden Nailhead stools.

No Sew Cayden Nailhead Stool

Additional Photos

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

About Project

Author Notes: 

I am so excited today to share with you plans for an upholstered rustic stool, very much inspired by Pottery Barn's Caden Nailhead stool, ringing up for as much as $230 for leather, made with pine legs.  My question for you is what if you needed four?  

Some of you may be fortunate enough to just shell out the cash, but for me and Jaime (who made and upholstered this stool), spending $1000 on four stools is just too much.  So what to do?
DIY of course!
You'll find the plans following, with step by step instructions on building the stool itself.  I hope you also take a second to visit Jaime and thank her for sharing photos and also her step by step tutorial on the no sew nailhead upholstered top.
PS - If you want the counter or bar height stools, make sure you holler so I know!

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
No Sew Cayden Nailhead Stool
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above. Stool is standard chair/bench height.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x12 @ 18 1/2" long
Either use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws or 2 3/4" trim screws countersunk

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
sander
countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List: 

4 – 2x2 @ 16 3/8” both ends cut parallel to each other, 5 degree bevel/5 degree angle off square, short point to long point
2 – 1x2 @ 8 5/8” Long point to long point, both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other
2 – 1x2 @ 14 7/8” Long point to long point, both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other
1 – 2x12 @ 18 1/2”

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

No Sew Cayden Nailhead Stool

Marking Legs

To cut legs accurately, set miter saw for a five degree bevel and five degree angle. Cut just enough off the end of the 2x2 to cut the angle into the end (less than 1”). Then just slide the board down 16 3/8” (long point to short point, so one end to the next along the edge) and cut. Slide down 16 3/8” and cut again. The slide and cut two more times until all four of your legs are cut. Once cut, line up so legs splay outward as shown in diagram. Mark the inside corners. With a five degree bevel/angle, you’ll be glad you did this – it can be hard to tell what way the legs go!

Step 2

No Sew Cayden Nailhead Stool

First Side Stretchers

Lay a board – even just the seat – down on your work surface. With the inside corners of legs facing upward and inward, rest on work surface, meeting up with the gray board. NOTE: on back edge, will not meet up because of angle cuts. Measure down and place top stretcher. Mark joints clearly, marking outside joint as well. Predrill holes – pocket holes would be great here – and attach with screws and glue. TIP: Check the bottom distance and top to make sure your legs are properly positioned. Repeat on opposite side.

Step 3

No Sew Cayden Nailhead Stool

Side Stretchers

It’s going to get a little tougher here because now we are working with a 3d stool base. And easy way to do this – especially if you are making multiples – is to cut a scrap 2x board (how about leftovers from the seat boards?) at 5 5/8” long. Then you can rest under the stretcher as you prepare your joint. Predrill holes – again, pocket holes would be great on the insides – and attach with screws. If you are using countersunk screws, you will need some long ones! NOTE: If you are using countersunk screws, you may consider using 2x2s for the stretchers just to give you a little board to screw into. This would not change the cut list.

Step 4

No Sew Cayden Nailhead Stool

Top

Mark location of legs and predrill holes. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 5

No Sew Cayden Nailhead Stool

Decorative Ends

To give the stretchers the look of passing through (and bonus hide any screws or nails!) cut pieces of 1x2s ½” long or less, with one end cut at 5 degrees off square. Glue over end of stretchers, clamping in place . TIP: Painter’s tape is a great way to attach and hold in place while glue dries.

Step 6

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
posted by Ana White

How to build end tables or nightstands. Free simple step by step DIY plans to build nightstands inspired by Restoration Hardware Kenwood Nightstand.

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

Additional Photos

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

About Project

Author Notes: 

It's been a busy time for us in Alaska. We are emerging from hibernation.

Days before Christmas, last YEAR, temperatures dropped below -30 degrees below zero (before wind chill).

And they stayed there, sometimes even going below -50 degrees below zero. For six weeks.

For six weeks, we haven't gone outside in Alaska. My car won't start, and the truck did start, and then started blowing oil out the top of the engine.
 

We have cabin fever. We need fresh air. 
So when the weather broke, to a balmy 10 degrees with gusts of 20 from the east, we feel like we are in tropical paradise.
So we have been spending a little time outside, catching up on things like breathing fresh air and feeling sunshine on our skin. Wonderful things that one never takes for granted in Alaska.
Today, we so greatly appreciate Whitney from Shanty2Chic for building this plan.
 

Well, of course, equally amazing nightstand plans have to be on there way too!  You can read more details and see tons more photos of Whitney's nightstands here, and of course, the plans follow.  

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

2 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
¾” plywood cut into 15 ¾” strips x 20 ½” long – one required, additional for shelves optional
1 – 48” wide by at least 22” high pine wainscoting panel for sides and door
Optional ¼” plywood for back
Set of 2 2” strap hinges
Knob or handle
Magnetic clasp
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” finish nails
¾” finish nails
Wood glue

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander
countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List: 

2 – 1x2 @ 12 ¾”
2 – 1x4 @ 12 ¾”
4 – 1x2 @ 26 ¼”
2 – ¼” paneling or plywood @ 15 ¾” 21 ¾”
1 – ¾” plywood @ 15 ¾” x 20 ½” (additional for shelves)
4 – 1x3 @ 26 ¼”
2 – 1x2 @ 17”
2 – 1x4 @ 17”
4 – 1x4 @ 22 ½”
2 – 1x3 @ 16 ¾”
2 – 1x3 @ 14”
1 – ¼” paneling or plywood @ 16” x 19”

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

You will need to build two sides. I recommend a Kreg Jig here for the easiest and best edge to edge joint.

Step 2

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

Then just cover the back in plywood or planking of choice. This completes to two sides.

Step 3

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

Now we add the bottom shelf.

Step 4

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

Next, build the front and back frames.

Step 5

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

And then attach to front and back of nightstands.

Step 6

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

Build the top first, then attach to top.

Step 7

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

Next, build the door as shown here, and attach with hinges.

Step 8

Kentwood Nightstands or End Tables

And if you want, you can add a back.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
posted by Ana White

Free plans to build a hall tree. Simple step by step plans include 10 diagrams, detailed cut list and shopping list, and photos.

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Additional Photos

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

About Project

Author Notes: 

I am so glad you all liked Mimi's Hall Tree. On Friday, I put together plans for the bench shown at the base of this hall tree. 

So of course we need to tackle the hutch plans today!

A special thanks to Mimi for sharing with us her beautiful DIY Hall Tree.  Make sure you stop over and thank Mimi and check out lots more amazing DIY projects.

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

1 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x10 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x12 @ 4 feet long
1 - 1x6 @ 4 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 - sheet 1/4" plywood or beadboard
1 - stick 6 feet small crown moulding
Use either 2" screws or 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to build

3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
wood glue
wood filler
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
jigsaw
compound miter saw
nailer
countersink drill bit

Cut List

Cut List: 

2 - 1x10 @ 53" (Sides)
1 - 1x10 @ 32 1/2" (Shelf)
1 - 1x10 @ 13" (Divider)
2 - 1x2 @ 32 1/2" (Front Trim)
2 - 1x3 @ 32 1/2" (Back Trim)
1 - 1x6 @ 32 1/2" (Base)
1 - 1x12 @ 38" (Top)
1 - beadboard or 1/4" plywood @ 34" x 53" (Back)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Notch out hutch sides as desired. 

 You can also check out how I did my smiling mudroom sides for different ideas.

Step 2

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Next, add the shelf.

Step 3

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Notch out the tops of divider to fit a 1x2 on front and 1x3 on back. Use a jigsaw to make square cuts. Attach divider to shelf.

Step 4

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Next, add the front and back trim, making sure the divider is centered on the 1x2 and 1x3.

Step 5

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Add the bottom trim.

Step 6

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

And the back trim.

Also, not pictured, add the base trim flush to bottom back of hutch
with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws on back side, or 2" countersunk screws and wood glue.

Step 7

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Next, add the top. Notice the 2" overhang on sides and front.

Step 8

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Attach beadboard or plywood to back.

Step 9

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Apply moulding as desired, mitering corners to fit.

Step 10

Mimi's Hall Tree Hutch

Finally, secure to bench and wall to prevent forward tipping.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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