Cabin Bunk System - Desk Support

A storage system that doubles as a desk for your bunk bed.  Features two drawers for pencils and other homework essentials, and a large cubby with optional door, perfect for books.

Author Notes: 

Shopping List: 

1 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x12 @ 12 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
5 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1/2 sheet of 1/4" plywood
2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x4 @ 4 feet long
2 sets of 12" drawer slides (bottom/side mounts - the white ones)
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above.
Cut List: 

2 - 1x12 @ 46 5/8" (Sides)

4 - 1x2 @ 11 1/2" (Width of 1x12s)
2 - 1x2 @ 43 5/8" (Trim)
4 - 2x2 @ 54" (Legs)
4 - 2x2 @ 39" (Shelf Trim)
3 - 1x12 @ 39" (Top Shelf)
1 - 1x12 @ 3 3/4" (Divider)
1 - 2x2 @ 19 5/8" (Back Support)
1 - 1x12 @ 15 3/4" (Cubby Bottom)
1 - 1x12 @ 17 3/8" (Cubby Side)
1 - 1/4" Plywood @ 42" x 22 5/8" (Plywood Back)
Drawer Pieces - Cut to fit your drawer openings
4 - 1x3 @ 10"
2 - 1x3 @ 21 1/4"
2 - 1x3 @ 14 1/2"
1 - 1x4 @ 22 1/4"
1 - 1x4 @ 15 1/2"
1 - 1/4" Plywood @ 21 1/4" x 11 1/2"
1 - 1/4" Plywood @ 14 1/2" x 11 1/2"
Cutting Instructions: 
You can also use 3/4" plywood, cut into strips 11 1/2" wide as 1x12s. Please note that this plan assumes that your 1x12s are 11 1/2" wide, and you should always measure the width of your boards and adjust accordingly.
Step 1: 

Use 1 1/4" nails and glue to attach the trim pieces to the 1x12s. Do this on both 1x12 boards @ 46 5/8" long. Make sure you have drilled your pocket holes (see step 2) on the 1x12s first.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Drill pocket holes along the sides of the 1x12s set for 3/4" stock. Attach the legs with glue and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Tops are flush. This is the back view, the front view has the trim boards.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Now create your top shelf as shown here. Use pocket holes set for 3/4" stock along the sides and glue to attach the 2x2 trim to the top shelf 1x12.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now attach the top shelf to the two ends as shown above. The easiest method is to use pocket hole screws from the top, as the top will be hidden.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Next comes the desk pieces. Attach the top shelf so the top is at 30". Use pocket holes from the underside set for 3/4" stock. Then add the second shelf, leaving 3 3/4" gap between (for 1x4s that measure 3 1/2" wide to be used as the drawer faces) and finally, the divider. You can use your finish nailer and glue for the divider.

Step 6 Instructions: 

On the back side of the desk system, we need to add some boards to support the storage space and to fill in the back so we can add plywood. Attach the 2x2s - you can use 2" finish nails and glue, 2 1/2" countersunk screws or pocket holes.

Step 7 Instructions: 

One more support added in the same method as step 6.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Now you will want to join these boards to the 2x2 back frame with pocket holes on the inside/underside set for 3/4" stock. Use glue and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Attach the plywood to the back with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Drawers should always be made to fit the opening, so you get a nice tight fit. I did give measurements that work in a perfect world above. Build the drawer box out of 1x3s, to a total overall size 1" narrower than the opening, and leaving room for the drawer face (cut the sides of the drawers at 10" long). Use the drawer slides to attach the drawer in place without the face. Remember that the face is inset, so the drawer box will need to sit in 3/4". Then cut your drawer faces to fit and use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to attach the drawer faces to the drawer boxes, keeping an even gap around the drawer faces. Attach hardware.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Dresser Bookshelf Support for Cabin Bunk System

Featuring five shelves and five drawers, this bookshelf/dresser isn't just a smart storage solution.  It's also a top bunk support system.  

For a good tutorial on putting a drawer together and the recommended slides, please see this wood kitchen cabinet organizer drawer plan.


Author Notes: 

So glad to be back to work today!  This past week, our entire family has had the flu, and most days, I haven't felt clear headed enough to even drive a car, so certainly wouldn't be attempting to post plans under those circumstances.  I've got a ton of emails to catch up on, and lots of plans to work on, so I'll keep this brief, but just wanted to take a second to thank everyone for being patient and a special thank you to those of you who take your time to help others.  You are much appreciated.

Shopping List: 

2 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x12 @ 12 feet long
1 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long
1 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x6 @ 12 feet long
4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
6 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1/4" plywood (1/2 sheet for the bottoms of drawers)
5 - 11 - 12" drawer slides
5 knobs or handles
2 1/2 inch screws
3 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it.

This plans uses pocket holes. Before joining any boards, identify all necessary pocket holes on each and every board and drill all pocket holes.

Dimensions: 
Fits under the Cabin Top Bunk
Cut List: 

4 - 1x12 @ 46 5/8"

6 - 1x2 @ 11 1/2" (Width of 1x12s)
6 - 2x2 @ 54" (Legs)
5 - 1x12 @ 26" (Shelves)
4 - 2x2 @ 26" (Shelf Trim)
6 - 1x2 @ 26" (Shelf Trim)
7 - 2x2 @ 11 1/2" (Width of 1x12s)
20 - 1x6 @ 10 1/2" (Drawer Box)
5 - 1x8 @ 11 1/4" (Drawer Faces)
2 - 1x2 @ 43 5/8" (Optional Trim)
Cutting Instructions: 
This plan is highly dependant on widths of boards. Make sure that your 1x12s measure 11 1/2" wide (if you have 1x12s ripped from plywood, rip them at 11 1/2" wide) or you will need to adjust cuts as you go. Also, the drawer fronts are for 1x8s that measure 7 1/4" wide, so measure yours and adjust accordingly.
Step 1: 

On three of the 1x12s @ 46 5/8" long, trim the top and bottom edges out with 1x2s as shown above. Attach with glue and 1 1/4" finish nails from the back side to hide your nail holes.

Step 2 Instructions: 

All of the 1x12s @ 46 5/8" should have pocket holes drilled on the insides, on the long edges, approximately every 8-12 inches. On the 1x12s that you trimmed out, attach legs as shown above.

Step 3 Instructions: 

You could either use pocket holes for 1 1/2" stock, or 2 1/2" screws countersunk to join two of the leg panels as shown above. For added stability, you could also add the 2x2s shown in step 8 now too. Use glue and adjust for square.

Step 4 Instructions: 

The remaining 1x12 will fill in the back.

Step 5 Instructions: 

There are a couple of different means to attaching the shelves. What I would do is first attach the shelf trim (steps 6 and 7) to the shelves, and then attach the shelves as shown here. Use glue and pocket hole screws (1 1/4") to attach the fixed shelves from the underside.

Step 6 Instructions: 

If you have not already attached the trim to the top/bottom shelves, do so with either 2" finish nails and glue, or 1 1/4" pocket hole screws from the underside.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Shelf trim. The difference in this shelf trim is that it is 1x2s instead of 2x2s. You can use 2x2s, it's just the look.

Step 8 Instructions: 

This cabinet is designed for drawers with a 1x8 face. Measure the width of you 1x8s. With a 7 1/4" wide 1x8, you will be able to have drawer faces with 1/8" gaps around all sides. Attach the 2x2 drawer dividers as shown above. These are not supportive (no weight will be resting on them) so you can use 2" finish nails and glue.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Now it's time to build the drawer boxes. Each box needs to be 1" less in width than the opening for the drawer (for standard drawer slides). Measure first your drawer opening, and then build your drawer to fit.

Attach 1/4" plywood to the bottoms of the drawers. Use the drawer slides that are bottom/side mount so that the weight of the drawer is resting directly on the drawer slide (see below link).

Step 10 Instructions: 

Attach the drawer slide to the drawer boxes and insert the drawer box. Remember, the drawer will get a face, so the drawer box needs to be inset 3/4". Then cut your 1x8 drawer faces to fit the opening (the ideal is 11 1/4" wide) so that there is an even gap around all sides of the drawer face. Attach the drawer face to the drawer box with 1 1/4" nails and glue.

Step 11: 

Finally, if you desire, you can add 1x2 trim to the sides of the drawer box to give the shelf a more rustic feel. Just use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

When you to to assemble the bed, you can simply screw from the top underside of the shelf with 3" screws into the underside of the top bunk.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Cabin Bunk System - Top Bunk

The top bunk for the Cabin Bunk System.  Features full guardrails and slatted mattress support.  Works with the rest of the Cabin Collection to create a complete storage and sleeping center.

Thanks for being patient with me this week.  I will try to get caught up on emails and comments to the best of my ability.  A special thanks to everyone that has helped others out in the past few days.

Author Notes: 

Well, the flu visited us this week.

It started with Grace being oddly lethargic and a little warm, woke me up in the middle of the night with the shivers, and hit a real low as I attempted to take a hot bath to relieve body aches . . . only to have Grace throw up within minutes . . . in my bath.
I just shook my head and thought, motherhood.  You aren't even given the luxury of being sick.
And it occurred to me that perhaps why we see so many mothers picking up saws to build beds and tables and desks for their families is because using a saw is nothing to a mother, who let's little get in the way of providing the best home for her child.  What would you rather do?  Have a full on flu, attempt to find some relief in a hot bath, just to have your child throw up in your bath?  Or put some earplugs in and some safety glasses on and cut a board?  Building is easy in contrast.
The last major project that the Ram and I took on was a Cabin Media Wall.  And we find ourselves still looking at it in awe, thinking, wow, we actually made this!  And we are very very pleased with the look, the solidness, and the size.
So I wanted to add some more plans to this collection.  And because my nieces are needing bunk beds, (if you are looking for more of a girly bunk system, that's on the way too) I drew up a design that I am excited to share with you.
Shopping List: 

2 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long

1/2 Sheet - 3/4" plywood, MDF or particle board (4 feet x 4 feet)
4 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
6 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
4 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
This list does not include wood slats
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws
wood filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander
level
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Fits standard twin mattress. Shown dimensions of complete system.
Cut List: 

2 - 3/4" Plywood, MDF or Particle Board @ 39" x 21 3/4" (Panels)

2 - 2x2 @ 39" (Panel tops)
2 - 1x6 @ 39" (Panel bottom trim)
4 - 2x2 @ 24" (Legs)
2 - 1x6 @ 75" (Siderails)
28 - 1x2 @ 8" (Guardrail rails)
4 - 1x2 @ 16" (Guardrail ends)
1 - 1x3 @ 63 1/2" (Guardrail top, ladder side)
1 - 1x3 @ 75" (Guardrail top, back side)
1 - 1x3 @ 60 1/2" (Guardrail bottom, ladder side)
1 - 1x3 @ 72" (Guardrail bottom, back side)
2 - 2x2 @ 75" (Cleats)
Bunkie Board or 1x3s @ 39" to mattress specs
10 - 1x2 @ 16 1/4" (Headboard Trim)
Cutting Instructions: 
After cutting each board, make the location of all pocket holes and predrill all pocket holes. Once you start assembling the project, it will be difficult to go back and add pocket holes. Remember that you can click images for a larger view.
Step 1: 

Start by building the panels as shown above. Make sure you have also drilled the pocket holes you will need for step 2.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Add the legs with pocket holes. You should use pocket holes set for 3/4" stock here and glue. Use 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Also attach to the header (you may wish to use a pocket hole set for 1 1/2" stock and 2 1/2" screws for the header, but a 2" nail would work just fine too if you panel pocket hole is at the top).

Step 3 Instructions: 

Drill you siderail pocket holes as shown above, set for 3/4" stock. If you plan to have a adult or large child/teen on the top bunk, you may wish to use brackets here.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now it's time for the guardrails, which are entirely optional. Begin by drilling one pocket hole on the inside of each of the rails, and one pocket hole on the top of each of the ends. Also drill two pocket holes on the ends of the bottom boards. Then build your rails as shown above. Attach directly to the siderail with bolts with nuts and washers. Carefully place your bolts in a symmetrical fashion.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Attach the cleats directly to the inside of the siderails with 2" screws and glue, placed every 6-8", flush to the bottom of the siderails.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Either use a bunkie board as a mattress support system, or place 1x3s as slats, spaced according to your mattress recommendations. Screw the slats down with 1 1/4" screws. Do not use glue to make the slats removable.

Step 7 Instructions: 

If you wish to add a little extra decoration to the headboards, you can use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to add 1x2s as shown here.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 

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