Weatherly Outdoor Loveseat

An outdoor loveseat project plan featuring X back, double cushions, and an armless design that works with the Weatherly Sofa to create a dream sectional.  Uses standard 24" x 24" deep seat cushions, available everywhere.

Author Notes: 

While the paint dries on the sofa, thought I would post the loveseat plans for you all looking for ways to add comfort and style to your patios and decks this summer.

I am so glad that I built the sofa - made quite a few mods and changes to make this set of plans easier to build and stronger.  Also, this set of plans is highly inspired by Pottery Barn's Weatherby Sectional, but because 30" x 30" cushions are very very expensive, I opted to use standard 24" x 24" cushions.  If you can find the 30" x 30" cushions, you can easily modify this plan to fit those cushions.  I might suggest adding a center leg for added support if you do choose to use larger cushions.  Another big change from Pottery Barn's Weatherby Sectional is I made this plan to be standard seating height - so this could work as a bench at a table.
Later this week when I post the Sofa plans (with photos yay!) I'll go into more details.  Also, for those of you looking for something a tad simpler . . . I've got one more outdoor lounge collection in the works that I hope to post next week, so stay tuned for that.
Got a paint brush with my name on it, so gotta run.  Have a great day!
Shopping List: 

3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long (slats)

3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 
4 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet or stud length
2 1/2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions for the full sectional are shown above. Step 1 shows loveseat dimensions.
Cut List: 

4 - 1x2 @ 20 13/16" (both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends parallel to each other)

8 - 1x2 @ 10 3/8" (both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel to each other)
4 - 2x2 @ 12 1/8"
2 - 2x3 @ 45"
1 - 1x2 @ 45"
2 - 2x2 @ 33 1/2"
2 - 2x6 @ 45"
2 - 2x6 @ 23"
2 - 2x2 @ 13"
2 - 2x2 @ 45"
9 - 1x3 @ 23"
Step 1: 

Designed to fit standard 24" x 24" cushions, this loveseat is 48" wide, 33 1/2" tall (without finials) and 27" deep overall.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Start by taking all four longer back pieces and nailing two of the shorter pieces to them as shown above with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue. You should end up with a total of four of these.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Then make Xs out of the pieces from step 1. Attach with glue and 1 1/4" finish nails.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now add the sides. This is not super structurally important, so I glued and nailed mine - and there was no issue. You could use the Kreg Jig™ - but the pocket holes are going to cross, and I had some issues with screws overlapping. You will need to drill your pocket holes in the 2x2s in this step

Step 5 Instructions: 

OR you could drill all of the pocket holes in the 2x3s - that's what I ended up doing because my screws were crossing. Set your Kreg Jig™ for 1 1/2" stock and use 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Now attach the top with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 7 Instructions: 

And the legs. Shown above is the Kreg Jig™ pocket holes, but you could also use 2 1/2" screws countersunk from the legs (That's what I ended up doing, and it worked great!)

Step 8 Instructions: 

Now the sides - use the Kreg Jig™ as shown above or again, 2 1/2" screws countersunk with glue.

Step 9 Instructions: 

And the front legs. Use the Kreg Jig™, set for 1 1/2" stock and 2 1/2" screws. TIP: If you find your boards splitting out on you, sometimes using a shorter screw of setting your Kreg Jig™ for smaller stock (for example, 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" screws) can minimize the splitting.

Step 10 Instructions: 

And finally the front.

Step 11: 

Now the cleats.

Step 12: 

And finally lay the slats.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 

Hailey Hutch for Twin and Full Beds

The hutch for the Hailey Storage Bed Collection.  Plans show both full and twin sizes.  Please note that this hutch is designed for a very tight fit around the bed, and you should measure your headboard and bed width before building to ensure enough space around the bed.

Author Notes: 

We couldn't be more pleased with Grace's Hailey Bed

But we have decided not to do the towers and hutch because of the room size - but I sure am looking forward to seeing someone else add towers and a hutch over their Hailey Bed.  Please, give a shout if you would like to see more plans in this collection.
Shopping List: 

2 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long

1 - sheet 1/4" plywood, hardboard, beadboard or other backing material
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
1 1/4 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above for a full size. Twin dimensions are shown in plan.
Cut List: 

Full Size Cut List

2 - 1x12 @ 54 3/4"
7 - 1x12 @ 10 1/2"
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 54 3/4" x 12"
2 - 1x2 @ 54 3/4"
2 - 1x2 @ 9 3/4"
1 - 1x3 @ 54 3/4"
Twin Size Cut List
2 - 1x12 @ 39 1/4"
5 - 1x12 @ 10 1/2"
1 - 1/4" Plywood @ 39 1/4" x 12"
2 - 1x2 @ 39 1/4"
2 - 1x2 @ 9 3/4"
1 - 1x3 @ 54 3/4"
Step 1: 

As with most storage, start by building a simple box. As this is fully framed with plywood on the back, if you have a nailer handy, go ahead and nail this one (with glue of course and 2" finish nails). You can also use screws. Adjust for square.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Now add the plywood back with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Trim the front out as shown above with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 4 Instructions: 

And now the sides.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Finally, a little piece of crown will help the hutch tie in with the towers and match the headboard plans.

Step 6 Instructions: 

If you are building a twin size, here are the dimensions. Make sure you measure your bed - as this is a very tight fit.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Hailey Towers for the Storage Bed System

Storage Towers that can act as both a nightstand and a support system for a bed hutch.  Add tons of storage to your child or teens room without taking up more space than nightstands.  Works with the Hailey Storage Bedroom Collection.

Author Notes: 

Yesterday was my first day of preschool (Grace's too) so I didn't have a chance to post these plans.  As our building community has gotten so savvy and smart, I have been trying to post plans that are particularly innovative (because you certainly are more than able to design your own bookcase) but I wanted to draw these plans up so that they could match Grace's Bed.

I have decided NOT to build these towers for Grace because the bed itself hold so much! Those storage compartments hold all of her books, and I keep extra blankets on the wall side. The baskets hold toys and stuffed animals.

I have other plans for the extra space in her room . . . so stay tuned to find out what that is going to be!

Shopping List: 

3 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long

4 - 1x2s @ 8 feet long
1 - sheet 1/4" plywood
2x4 scraps
1x3 scrap
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Cut List: 

2 - 1x12 @ 69 1/2" (Tower Sides)

7 - 1x12 @ 16 1/2" (Shelves)
2 - 1x2 @ 69 1/2" (Face Frame Sides)
4 - 1x2 @ 15" (Shelf Trim)
1/4" Plywood @ 18" x 69 1/2" (Back)
2 - 2x2 @ 12" (For 2x4s that are ripped to 3" widths)
4 - 2x4 @ 4 1/2" (Legs, ripped down to 3" wide)
2 - 2x4 @ 9" (Base Supports - measure to fit)
1 - 1x3 @ 18" (Crown)
1 x2s and plywood for the doors
Step 1: 

Like most storage, we start out by building a box. Pretty simple. Because this one is fully face framed with a plywood back, you can use your nailer to build the box. Just make sure that you adjust everything for square, and you use glue.

Also, some of the shelves should be fixed, and some should be adjustable. My favorite means of making adjustable shelves is with shelf pins.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Now it's time for that face frame. Start by adding the longer side trim, using 1 1/4" finish nails and glue. Nail to the shelves that are fixed for added support.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach the 1/4" plywood to the back as shown here. Use glue and attach to all fixed shelves.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Build the base as shown above. The base above is shown with 2x4s that are ripped down to 3" widths - so if you don't rip yours down, the 2x2s will need to be 1" shorter.

Optimally, you would want to use pocket hole screws to build this base. But if you do not have pocket hole screws, simply screw the 2x4 pieces together as shown above, ignoring the joint to the 2x2s. Then attach the pieces to the base in step 5.

Step 5 Instructions: 

2" screws will keep these in place. If you do not have a Kreg Jig™, simply screw the 2x4 leg pieces and the 2x2 trim pieces to the bottom, without screwing the 2x2s to the 2x4 legs.

Step 6 Instructions: 

And a little crown to match the bed.

Step 7 Instructions: 

You should always build your doors to fit the openings. I like to leave a 1/8" gap around the doors. If you are worried about making inset doors, you can also build overlay doors (easier to get right than inset doors). The main things with doors is to use very straight boards, plywood that is not warped, and to measure and fit just right.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Pages