A picnic table that looks like a pirate ship!  Add an umbrella and every day dining is literally a breeze.

Author Notes: 

Shopping List: 

10 - 1x3 Boards, 8 feet long

2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above.
Cut List: 

6 - 1x3 @ 18" (Porthole sides)

2 - 1x3 @ 39" (Longest Point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, not parallel)
2 - 1x3 @ 37 7/16" (Longest Point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, not parallel)
2 - 1x3 @ 35 15/16" (Longest Point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, not parallel)
2 - 1x3 @ 34 3/8" (Longest Point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, not parallel)
2 - 1x2 @ 18" (Top Cleat)
4 - 1x2 @ 17" (Side Cleats)
4 - 1x2 @ 7 9/16" (Seat Cleats)
4 - 1x2 @ 9 9/16" (Seat Angled Cleats - both ends at 15 degrees off square)
4 - 1x2 @ 6 1/2" (Porthole Cleats)
2 - 1x3 @ 19" (Top Breadboard Ends)
4 - 1x3 @ 8" (Seat Breadboard Ends)
2- 1x3 @ 25 1/2" (Base Supports)
13 - 1x3 @ 25 1/2" (Seat/Tabletop Boards)
Step 1: 

The most difficult part of this project is going to be getting those boards cut just right - namely this circle. Cut your six boards straight, as shown above, 18" long. Lay out with 1/4" spacing between the boards and draw a 5" circle on the boards. Then cut the circle parts out of each board with a jigsaw. You will need to do this on both sides.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Now space the remaining side boards out, 1/4" appart as shown above. Notch the bottom out 1/2" up as shown above with a jigsaw so that the table will sit flat, despite uneven surfaces. You will need to do this on both sides.

Step 3 Instructions: 

To the top board, add the top cleat as shown above.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now it's time to assemble the sides. Start at the top and work your way down, keeping a 1/4" gap between all of the boards as shown above.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Seat cleats. Add the seat cleats as shown above. If you want to be extra fancy, you can cut the seat cleats at a 15 degree angle. Glue and screws would do the trick.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Now we need something to keep the ends in place. Add the angled cleats as shown above, and the cleats around the portholes. Again, 1 1/4" fasteners and glue.

Step 7 Instructions: 

If you have a Kreg Jig™, consider building the top and seats first, and the adding to the top. But if you don't, here's how you can still get those breadboard ends. Screw (predrilled holes) and glue the breadboard ends to the top as shown above. The top will overhang 1/2" on both ends. Seats will sit flush.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Now join the two sides together using the base support boards as shown above. Screw to the cleats and also to the sides.

Step 9 Instructions: 

And finally, attach all of the top boards as shown above. Carefully predrill holes and use 2" screws and glue. Adjust for square.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

storage bed

Author Notes: 

Do you have a project sitting in the garage, that has been sitting there for quite some time?

Believe me, I understand.
I've been so good at only working on one project at a time this past year, but with Grace's new bed, I just go stuck.  
I have been wanting to create a bedroom storage system that can easily be arranged in a variety of ways to create anything from a reading bench to a twin storage bed to a full bed to even a storage daybed.  And I knew I wanted this system to be easy to put together and easy to disassemble, and easy to modify.  So I've had these plans drawn up for quite a while.
We built one bench.
And that bench has been sitting in our garage since before I got the flu, since before I took on rebuilding the website.
I became quite discouraged with it.
You see, I had originally intended for the headboards and footboards to be made with a 1x3/1x2 leg, but when I went to assemble the footboard, there was no room for the plywood.  And I wasn't quite sure how to progress.
But as I was designing the Cabin Bunk System (and also a more girly bunk system) it occurred to me that I could use 2x4s for the legs, creating more space for the panel, and also a sturdier footboard and headboard.
The bed was done the very next day.  The very next day.

And for those of you who do not like the exposed bench feet under the bed, I encourage you to take a better look at this bed . . . the things you notice when you DIY :) I plan to add an upholstered bench to the foot of the bed.

Shopping List: 

4 - 1x12 @ 8 feet long OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood or MDF ripped into 11 1/2" wide strips, 8 feet long

12 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - sheet of 1/4" plywood or hardboard
1/2 sheet of 3/4" particle board
3 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Fits a standard twin mattress. Convert to a full by simply adding 15" to all width-wise measurements.
Cut List: 

4 - 1x12 @ 75" (Bench Top/Bottom)

5 - 1x12 @ 13 1/2" (Dividers)
8 - 1x2 @ 18" (Legs)
8 - 1x2 @ 72" (Top/Bottom Trim)
2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 15" x 75" (Backs)
1 - 3/4" Particle board @ 33" x 30 1/4" (Headboard Panel)
1 - 3/4" Particle Board @ 33" x 15"
2 - 1x3 @ 39" (Headers)
4 - 1x2 @ 33" (Panel Trim)
2 - 2x4 Ripped down to 3" width @ 18" (Footboard Legs)
2 - 2x4 Ripped down to 3" width @ 48 1/4" (Headboard Legs)
2 - 1x2 @ 75" (Cleats)
14 - 1x3 @ 13" Approx (Slats)
Step 1: 

Start by building a simple box out of 1x12 boards as shown above. You can place the cubbies at any spacing, just try to keep the middle cubby in the center. I built one bench with pocket holes, one with 2 inch finish nails and glue - and either way works just fine.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Then add the legs as shown here. Again, use either finish nails or pocket holes. Tops and outsides are flush.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Now trim out the tops and bottoms. It's a good idea to also secure the top/bottom trim to the cubbies as well.

Step 4 Instructions: 

And then tack some 1/4" plywood to the backs. Use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 5 Instructions: 

You should at this point have two benches. Line the benches up so that the overall width is 39" (for a twin, 54" for a full) as shown above.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Now it's time to build the headboard. First we must make a decision. If you have a table saw, rip 1/4" off each side of your 2x4 boards so that the total width of your 2x4s are 3". Also, this will give you a nice square edge to your 2x4s. I ripped mine, and all dimensions given are for ripped 2x4s. If you do not have a tablesaw, it's really okay. You will just need to subtract an inch from the headboard/footboard panels and trim. This is noted in the diagram. Once you have decided on your leg widths, cut your particle board panel to the correct width, and the trim. Attach the trim with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Now the legs. On Grace's bed, we tapered the legs slightly. Taper the footboard first, to match the clearance under the benches. The headboard is really not necessary, as you can barely see this.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Use 2" finish nails and glue to attach the headers to the bed. On Grace's bed, we glued a flower applique for an added touch of girly to the headboard.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Build the footboard in the same manner as the headboard.

Step 10 Instructions: 

As we go to assemble the beds, we will need to do something about the gap in between. I wanted the mattress to be able to breathe, as children can have accidents. So I choose a slatted system. To begin, use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue (on the top edge of the cleat so you don't poke through) to attach cleats 3/4" down from the bench tops.

Step 11: 

Then I took a measurement (important, as your 1x12s could be a different width) of the space in between and cut a pile of slats and screwed them down.

Step 12: 

If you want to have some hidden storage (the cubbies on the ends are perfect for fabric bins, and also allow for a nightstand) it's easy to build doors. You should measure the opening, with your doors starting in the center of the bed and covering the outer dividers. I used 1x2s to build a frame, placed plywood on the back (make sure that the plywood is 3/4" short on the ends, so that the door can sit fully inset) with 3/4" finish nails and glue, and attached with hinges and clasps. After many trials and as many errors, the easiest method I found was to use hinges as shown above.

Step 13: 

Assemble the bed by attaching the headboard and footboard to the benches with 2" screws as shown above. Grace's bed is extremely sturdy.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

This simple bed can be used alone or with the Cabin Bunk System.  Features a paneling look for added character, and an compact design for small spaces.

Author Notes: 

Well, it's taken me much longer to kick this flu than expected, but hopefully, we've said goodbye to the dreaded influenza for the year.  I'm so excited to complete this collection of plans - The Cabin Bunk System - but also note, this bed can be used on it's own.  One note, you may wish to use hardwood 2x2s for the legs for added strength.  I know what it's like to have kids jumping on the bed  :)

Thank you again for your patience with me, and I'm really looking forward to being back to work full time!  Enjoy the plans.
Shopping List: 

1 - 1/2 Sheet of 3/4" Particle Board

2 - 1x6 @ 10 feet long
5 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long (you may wish to use hardwood 2x2s for the legs)
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
7 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
level
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Fits twin sized mattress. Can accommodate a standard box spring or use without box spring.
Cut List: 

1 - 3/4" Particle Board @ 39" x 31 3/8" (Headboard Panel)

1 - 3/4" Particle Board @ 39" x 15 3/8" (Footboard Panel)
2 - 1x6 @ 39" (Bottom Trim)
2 - 2x2 @ 39" (Top Trim)
5 - 1x2 @ 25 7/8" (Panel Trim, Headboard)
5 - 1x2 @ 9 7/8" (Panel Trim, Footboard)
2 - 2x2 @ 41" (Headboard Legs)
2 - 2x2 @ 25" (Footboard Legs)
2 - 1x6 @ 75" (Siderails)
2 - 2x2 @ 75" (Cleats)
14 - 1x3 @ 39" (Slats - you may need more or less)
Step 1: 

On the headboard panel (I just build a bed yesterday that is very similar, and used cheapo particle board for the panels because it's really mostly decorative) use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to attach the 1x6 base trim as shown above.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Now drill pocket holes along the top edge (and the side edges too for step 4) approximately every 8-12 inches and attach the 2x2 to the top as shown above. Drill the pocket holes set for 3/4" stock.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Now just use your 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to attach the 1x2 trim boards as shown above.

Step 4 Instructions: 

And you should already have pocket holes drilled from step 2, so just attach the legs with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Build the footboard in the same manner as the headboard.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Now add the siderails. The easiest method is to drill pocket holes from the insides of the siderails and attach to the headboard and footboard. A stronger means would be to use brackets, available at most hardware stores.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Now add the cleats to the insides of the siderails. If you are not using a box spring, you may wish to put your cleats at the top of the siderails, just don't forget that your slats will take up 3/4". Use glue and 2" screws. Also, for added support, you can attach the headboard and footboard to the cleats with screws too.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Now lay the slats on top of the cleats and screw down with 1 1/4" screws. If you are using a box springs, you will not need the slats. Be aware that some mattresses are firmer than others, and you may need less or more slats.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

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