Truss Shelves

Four open large shelves in the shape of truss.

After Sheri shared this amazing photo of her Ipex Bookshelf

 

I got super inspired to draw up plans for something very similar, but easier to build

 

And HammerTime built the truss shelves and shared on our Community!

And here is a money saving idea . . . how about purchasing standard MDF shelving in 4' lengths for the shelves?  Then all you would have to do is build the 2x4 frame (and 2x4s run about $2 each).  So easy!  And how about a bright paint?

Author Notes: 

Shopping List: 

4 – 2×4 Boards, 8′ or Stud Length
2 – 1×12 Boards, 8′ Long OR 4 – 4′ Shelves OR 2 – 8′ Shelves (12″ wide)
16 3″ Screws
24 2″ Screws
Wood Glue and Finishing Supplies

120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
safety glasses
hearing protection
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above
Cut List: 

4 – 2×4 @ 66″ (Legs, ends cut at 10 degrees off square parallel to each other)
8 – 2×4 @ 11 1/2″ (Shelf Supports)

And as far as amount of storage per cost of materials, I’m not sure you can beat this one. Because all the wide width boards (the pricy boards) are used fully as storage, and all the supports are cheap (but sturdy) 2x4s. Win win.

Step 1: 

Cut Legs

Cut the legs as shown above, with the legs cut at 10 degrees off square, parallel to each other. If you do not have miter saw, you can use a protractor and a jigsaw or circular saw. Cut four legs.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Supports

The supports are all 2x4s, 11 1/2″ long. Make sure you shelves are 11 1/2″ wide first and cut the supports to match (for example, you buy 12″ wide shelving, then you would cut the supports at 12″ long). Then measure each of the legs and mark as shown above. These marks are to the tops of the supports. Screw the supports to the legs. Supports will NOT be parallel to the leg sides, but rather, parallel to the leg tops and bottoms. You can additionally use your protractor to mark the angle – it will be 80 degrees from the top of the shelf to the leg. Use either 3″ screws and glue or 2″ pocket hole screws (for pocket holes) and glue.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Shelves

If you survived step 2, this bookshelf is built! Now simply mark each of the shelves from the ends as shown above. These marks will line up with the shelf supports. Screw the shelves to the shelf supports with 2″ screws. And that’s it, your done!

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Grant Base Plans

The base for the Grant collection. Features three drawers and two doors, decorative footer, and is useable without the hutches.

Finally, today, I got to go out to the garage and make some sawdust.  And I'm so excited to share with you my next project . . . but the paint is still drying.  So in the meantime, I thought I would take on what I do believe is the longest standing plan request . . .

This project is quite a big one, both time and size wise, so we'll break it into steps.  Also, that enables someone who might just want the base as a baby changing table or buffet to build that plan,

or someone who wants just the base and secretary hutch (under a window perhaps?) to combine those plans,

and then of course, someone who wants the whole piece to have at it . . . piece by piece.

This is an advanced plan, so please don't tackle this project as your first project.  It's not so much that you can't build this, it's more a problem of precision.  The larger a project is and the more pieces that work together, the more precise you have to be.  For example, let's say your base is just slightly off square, and your secretary hutch a tad crooked in the opposite direction. . . when you go to put the two not perfect pieces together, you are going to have noticeable problems.  So be cautious about tackling a big project with lots of pieces until you are confident in your ability to build with precision.

Author Notes: 

Shopping List: 

2 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF @ 4×8 Sheets
1 – 1×4 @ 4 feet long
1 – 1/4″ plywood @ 4×4 Sheet
2 – 3/4″ Wide Moulding @ 8 feet long
2″ Screws (Drywall for MDF) or 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
3 – Sets of 18″ Drawer Slides
2 – Sets of Hinges
5 Knobs
Finishing Supplies

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
safety glasses
hearing protection
countersink drill bit
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above. This project is designed to work with the hutch system.
Cut List: 

2 – 1×20 @ 24″ (Divider Sides)
2 – 1×20 @ 14″ (Drawer Box)
1 – 1×20 @ 46 1/2″ (Bottom Shelf)
1 – 1×20 @ 48″ (Top)
2 – 1×20 @ 29″ (Sides)
1 – 1×4 @ 46 1/2″
1 – 1/4″ plywood @ 48″ x 29″ (Back)
Moulding, Door and Drawer cuts are located within the instructions as you should build to fit.

Step 1: 

2 – 1×20 @ 24″ (Divider Sides)
2 – 1×20 @ 14″ (Drawer Box)
1 – 1×20 @ 46 1/2″ (Bottom Shelf)
1 – 1×20 @ 48″ (Top)
2 – 1×20 @ 29″ (Sides)
1 – 1×4 @ 46 1/2″
1 – 1/4″ plywood @ 48″ x 29″ (Back)
Moulding, Door and Drawer cuts are located within the instructions as you should build to fit.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Center Drawer Divider

Adding shelves to your center cubbies does add weight to the piece, and isn’t entirely necessary, but if you have the boards (and we do because you have to buy 2 sheets of plywood/MDF) it can add structure and stability and give you a better aligned drawer box.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Top and Bottom Shelf

Carefully mark out the top and bottom shelf as shown above and attach the center divider to the top and bottom. Use 2″ screws and glue or 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Sides Cutout

Mark the sides as shown above and carefully cut out with a jigsaw. Make sure the sides. Note that the sides are different than the front footer cutout.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Sides

Attach the sides to the side of the project. Use 2″ screws or pocket hole screws and glue. This cabinet is not face framed, so you should not use finish nails to build the box.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Front Footer

Attach the front footer to the bottom, inset as shown above. Mark and cut out (I would cut in place – if you are confident of your jigsaw skills – because you won’t have to worry about clamping and such). You can use a nailer and 1 1/4″ or 2″ finish nails and glue here.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Back

Attach the back with either 1 1/4″ screws or 1 1/4″ glue. It is important that you attach to the shelves and dividers to help keep the piece square. Be certain that your project is perfectly square at this point. You will only need to make one cut here.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Moulding

You should cut your moulding to fit perfectly. What I do is start by getting the center piece (the one with both ends mitered at 45 degrees) right, then doing the sides to fit perfectly to the center. Sometimes I make a half dozen cuts before I’m satisfied with the fit. Check out my Mom’s Bed to see moulding in action and more details on choosing moulding.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Doors

There are many ways that you can build doors. Because you will have some scrap 3/4″ plywood leftover, why not use it up on this project? Measure the door opening and cut a piece of the 1×20 3/4″ stock to fit the door opening, leaving approximately 1/8″ to 1/16″ gap around the door (you may need to adjust depending on the type of hinges that you use. When you are satisfied with the fit, cut 1/4″ plywood into 2 1/2″ wide strips (you’ll have some leftover from the back) and glue and clamp to the face of the door, making sure that the corners are securely clamped (TIP: Don’t clamp so tight that all the glue seeps out and you have nothing to glue the wood together with!). You will need to build two doors.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Drawers

From the 3/4″ plywood strips cut at 7 1/4″, build the drawers. The bottoms of the drawers should be cut from leftover 1×20 stock from building the box, and will be inset to the sides (as in you will nail or screw through the sides into the drawer bottom). The above drawer is designed to work with standard drawer slides, but you should always measure the drawer box before constructing your drawer to be certain that you are leaving 1/2″ on either side of the drawer for drawer slide clearance (standard drawer slides require 1/2″ clearance on each side of the drawer). Also, I like NOT attach the face until the drawer is fully installed, so I can attach the face floating in the drawer box, with an equal gap around all sides.

Step 11: 

Finishing

Remove the doors and drawers and fill and exposed holes with wood filler. If you used plywood, fill exposed plywood edges with wood filler. Sand and apply edge banding to plywood edges (for a stain) or prime and paint as desired. Replace doors and drawers and add hardware.

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Y Leg Table

A modern style table, featuring a unique Y leg design and extra support in the center.

Author Notes: 

Shopping List: 

1 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF, full 4×8 Sheet
5 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long (preferably hardwood for added strength)
1 1/4″ screws
2 1/2″ screws
wood glue
wood filler
finishing supplies

120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are 66″ long x 36″ wide x 30″ high. Designed for six seats. Can be easily customized up to 36″ long (shorter) but it is not recommended to increase the length on this design.
Cut List: 

1 – 3/4″ Plywood @ 66″ x 36″ (Tabletop)
2 – 1×3 @ 36″ (End Supports)
4 – 1×3 @ 61″ (Length Supports)
4 – 1×3 @ 21 3/8″ (Leg Tops)
4 – 2×2 @ 33″ (Both ends at 30 degrees off square, parallel to each other)
4 – 2×2 @ 16 1/4″ (Both ends at 30 degrees off square, NOT parallel to each other)

Step 1: 

Tabletop Supports

Begin by attaching the end supports to the underside of the table with 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Then attach all of the length supports.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Strong Back

With the remaining support board, taper the ends as shown above and attach to the center support with glue and 3″screws predrilled and coutnersunk or with pocket hole screws.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Leg Tops

From the 1x3s @ 21 3/8″ carefully mark and cut out this pattern. All angles are at 45 degrees.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Legs

Build the legs as shown above. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Leg Bases

Attach the leg bases to the legs as shown above. Note that two legs will be mirror images of the other two. Use 2 1/2″ Screws and glue.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Assembly

Fit the legs into the table as shown above. Predrill holes and attach with 1 1/4″ screws. Omit glue to make the table easy to disassemble. Add cork pads to the bottoms of the table legs to help even out the table and protect floors.

Thank you Pudgy Bunny for suggesting this project, and to everyone else who has suggested projects. Can’t wait to see this table built! Here’s to a bright color! Have a great weekend. Ana

Project Type: 
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