Rolling Industrial Shelves

Roll these industrial shelves into your dining room or living room for a little extra storage with a lot of style. Features industrial hardware, rustic design, and five large shelves.

I'm REALLY nervous to post this - this is my first plan and I just know Ana and all of you will have a bunch of ideas on how to improve the design. :) Which is great! I'm hoping to post this plan along with some questions so that we can figure it out the best way to build it together.
I'm REALLY nervous to post this - this is my first plan and I just know Ana and all of you will have a bunch of ideas on how to improve the design. :) Which is great! I'm hoping to post this plan along with some questions so that we can figure it out the best way to build it together.

Ana mentioned wanting to make up these plans ("inspired" by the Wisteria Recycled Pine Wood Bookcase - but I honestly couldn't wait (those darn buildies!) and I know how busy she is so I thought I'd take the plunge!

Shopping List: 

15 – 2×6 Pine Boards, 8 foot length (6′ would be even better, but I’m not sure they make that size!)
4 – 2 x 4 Pine Boards, 8 foot length
10 – 1×2 Pine Boards, 6 foot length (again, I’m not sure they come in 6′, if they don’t, you will need to buy the 8 footers!)
2 – 1 x 2 Pine Boards, 8 foot length
1 – 2 x 2 Pine Boards, 10 foot length, OR 2 – 8 foot boards
OPTIONAL: dowel, metal rod or cabling Qty. 4 at 67.25″L
OPTIONAL: 4 metal angle brackets
4 – 4″ to 6″ Caster Wheels (metal ones are best)
2″ Screws
2″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue and Finishing Supplies

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
sander
level
countersink drill bit
Dimensions: 
Dimensions: 75.5″h x 69.25″w x 18″d
Cut List: 

15 – 2×6 @ 64.75″ (Shelves)
10 – 1 x 2 @ 66.25″ (Shelves Front Trim)
10 – 1 x 2 @ 16.5″ (Shelves Side Trim)
10 – 2 x 2 @ 11″ (“Ladder” Sides)
4 – 2 x 4 @ 75.5″ (“Ladder” Legs)
4 – 67.25″ Dowel or Metal Rod

Step 1: 

Start by building FIVE shelves.

Red = 2×6 @64.75″ Shelvf board
Blue = 1×2 @16.5″ Shelves Side Trim board
Yellow = 1×2 @ 66.25 Shelves Front Trim board

If you have a pocket hole system, attach your shelves together using pocket holes. If not, then end 1×2 (blue) will keep everything together, but there will not be a joint between the 2x6s. An easy work around would be to use wood dowels or small metal brackets on the underside.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Ends

If you have a pocket hole system, attach the 2×2 end trim to the legs. These boards are optional and are not necessary for the structure of the shelf. If you like the looks of the end trim, you can simply add it after you add the shelves.

Green = 2×4 @ 75.5″ “Ladder” legs
Pink = 2×2 @11″ “Ladder” sides

Step 3 Instructions: 

Decorative Rods

If you choose to use the decorative rods, mark the back legs as shown in the diagram above. Predrill holes with a bit that matches the diameter of your rods (ANA NOTE: I’ve been on enough concrete pours to know exactly what I would use here – Rebar is cheap, easy to cut, and has the rustic, industrial look. Ask for it in the concrete section of your home improvement store) Cut your rods to fit.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Assembly

Attach the bottom shelve to the side ladders (or legs), as well as gluing all of your dowels into place as you attach the bottom shelve. Continue attaching the shelves with 17″ of space between each one.

Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Perfect Cubby Bench

A perfect cubby bench, featuring three cubbies sized to fit standard fabric drawers.

Shopping List: 

2 – 1×12 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
Scrap 1/4″ plywood for the back (optional)
2″ screws or 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
1 1/4″ brad or finish nails
wood glue
wood filler
sandpaper
paint and primer
3 Fabric Drawers (make sure yours fit!)

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
jigsaw
sander
level
countersink drill bit
Dimensions: 
Cut List: 

2 – 1×12 @ 21″ (Sides)
3 – 1×12 @ 34 1/2″ (Shelves)
2 – 1×3 @ 34 1/2″ (Footer/Back)
2 – 1×12 @ 11″ (Cubby Dividers)
2 – 1×12 @ 2 3/4″ (Top Cubby Dividers)
1/4″ plywood or other backing @ 36″ x 21″ (Back, optional)

Step 1: 

Box

Start by rounding off the top corners of the sides with a jigsaw. Clamp the two cut edges together and sand as one to get the same curve. Then mark then sides for the placement of the shelves. Predrill holes and attach the shelves to the sides with 2″ screws and glue or pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Front/Back

Attach the front and back as shown in the diagram. For the bottom piece, make sure you also attach from the top into the top edge of the footer.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Back

Attach the back with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue. If you have some smaller nails on hand, attach to the top. Otherwise, glue and clamp in place. Don’t worry, we’ll be adding more shelves to help with attaching the back better. The back is also optional.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Cubby Dividers

This should be pretty easy – just mark, place your cubby dividers in place, and predrill holes. Screw down.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Seat

Attach the remaining shelf as you did the other two shelves

Step 6 Instructions: 

Top Dividers

Now this step isn’t so much as tricky, but will require some trust in glue. Measure out the placement of the final dividers and apply glue. Slide the dividers in place. Screw the dividers down through the seat and with 2″ screws. Let dry. They won’t budge. Not when the dividers are that s

Estimated Cost: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Cottage Bench with Storage Cubbies

A simple cottage style entryway bench with under seat storage cubbies. Two large, roomy cubbies. Though the bench itself is small, the seat is adult height and size.

Our home does not have an entryway.

And we live in Alaska.

And I designed our home.

It is the biggest regret I have about our home.  And it's my fault.

But in my defense, when we built our home, we were on a strick budget of both time and money.  And labor.  A  paycheck to paycheck budget, and the labor of one man working full time and a woman with a newborn baby.  Adding just a few extra square feet wasn't a matter of an extra few dollars a month over 30 years.  It was a matter of more shoveling, more framing, more hauling materials, more finishing, more concrete to pour, but without more time or more paycheck.

So when I designed our home, our backs and budget were first and foremost in our minds.  And I reasoned that the large great room could double as an entryway.

And it does work.

But here's the major issues.  When someone stops by unexpectedly, our entire home is in plain sight.  And that means you can see whether or not I did the dishes (there's a good chance that I did not), all of Grace's toys that she's "still playing with," and whatever chaos we've got going on at the moment.  Then there is the problem of winter gear in Alaska having no where to go.  I used to use the laundry room, which is directly off the entryway, but then there was no where for laundry to go.  And finally, there is no where to sit down and take your boots off.

See what I mean?  When you open the door, there you are, right in the middle of our living space.  Ka-bam!  Hello, White Family, hello mess!

We considered several options, from adding on to the outside of the house, but the roof design just wouldn't work.  Every time I drive up to our home, I feel pride and gratefulness for what we have and were able to accomplish.  An add-on would take away from that.  We've considered boxing in the front entryway, but the floor isn't insulated, and it's really really narrow.  If anything, we'll be extending the porch out next summer.

I did have an Entryway Shelf System on the wall in front of the laundry room/closet, but there was nothing to force traffic to use it.  Then I replaced it with the locker I built for Fresh Home magazine, but still, no change in traffic direction, and nothing to block the view of our entire inside of our home from guests.  Not just guests . . . even I don't want to come home to chaos with an arm full of groceries and mail and Grace with full cold weather gear on and two dogs whining and the phone ringing. . . you know exactly what I'm talking about.

So we'll see how this all works out.  I plan to make the locker system less than traditional height- maybe five feet tall - so that people can look over it and see the windows and the great room isn't completely separated out.  Really eyeing these ones.

Another thought would be to add board and batten wall treatment around the great room, 5 feet up, and then also build a "wall" that is five feet tall (it would essentially be just the board and batten treatment on the false wall) where the locker system would go, and hang hooks on it, like my friend Kate did at Centsational Girl. Then the back side would be pretty too.  What's your vote? What would you do?

Oh, here's a quick peek of what my living room looks like right now . . . there is plenty of room.

I haven't made my mind up on the entryway wall.  I'd love your input.  In the meantime, I still need a bench for the wall in front of the laundry room.

So I drew up a few designs, and even built a bench.

But I haven't decided if this is THE bench just yet.  It ended up being a little shorter than I expected.  That is MY fault for not measuring.

But it's so darling and sturdy, I might just add a hall tree coat rack or something along those lines and keep it.

The baskets are from Target and fit perfect in the cubbies - which are quite large.  There is also ample space underneath, for shoes or dog dishes or even more baskets.  This bench is also just shy of a twin size bed, so would make a cute reading bench at the foot or a child's twin sized bed.  You could add a cushion and their favorite books in the bins for a special story spot.

Shopping List: 

1 – 1×12 @ 10 feet long (you can make mods shown in cut list to use an 8 footer, but the cubbies will be really short)
1 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
3 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
jigsaw
sander
level
countersink drill bit
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above. 36″ wide, 18″ high x 14 1/2″ deep.
Cut List: 

8 – 1×2 @ 6″ (Slats)
2 – 1×3 @ 33″ (Back)
2 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Back Legs)
3 – 2×2 @ 33″ (Back Support, Bottom and Front 2x2s)
1 – 1×12 @ 36″ (Seat)
2 – 1×12 @ 11″ (Sides) (Make this measurement 9″ if you want to get all your cuts in a single 8 foot 1×12)
1 – 1×12 @ 9 1/2″ (Center Divider) (Make this measurement 8 1/2″ if you want to get all of your cuts in a single 1×12)
1 – 1×12 @ 33″ (Bottom of Cubbies)
4 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Width of your 1x12s – adjust to fit)
1 – 1×2 @ 36″ (Front Trim)
2 – 2×2 @ 17 1/4″ (Front Legs)

Step 1: 

Back

Mark out your back 1×3 boards for the placement of the 1×2 rails. Either drill a pocket hole in each end of the rails (1x2s @ 6″ long) or carefully predrill a hole for screws from the tops and bottoms of the 1x3s OR drill holes in both the rails and top/bottom for wood dowels. With glue applied, you will only need one screw per end of each rail.

I tapered the top of the back by measuring in 9″ from the end of the 1×3 top board and down 1″. I drew a straight line and cut with my jigsaw. Then I rounded the top with a sander to make it look like it is a arched top (its really not).

Step 2 Instructions: 

Finishing the Back

Measure and mark out the placement of the joints and predrill holes. Either use pocket holes or 3″ screws and glue.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Box

If we are building a project that has storage in it, you are probably going to build a box. Screws and glue. 2″ ones will work just fine.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Trim

Trim out the box with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue. This should be a super easy step.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Front

Build the front as shown above. Use 3″ screws and glue. Use finish nails and glue to attach the top to the legs/front.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Assembly

Now the fun part. Attach the front and back to the box with 3″ screws and glue.

Finish Used: 
Mine is finished with High Gloss Paint from Valspar. I simply filled all my holes and other imperfections with wood filler and let it dry. I did a second coat, then sanded with 120 grit sandpaper. A coat of primer and two coats of high gloss white and the bench is done! Enjoy.
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 

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