Mom’s Fancy Farmhouse Bed
A fancier touch to the Farmhouse Bed. Features decorative moulding and no footboard. Very sturdy freestanding bed.
My mother has been asking for a bed for at least five years now. She's even offered to pay me to make her a bed.
And every year, I have intentions of making my mother a bed for her Birthday.
And every year, I don't get around to it in time.
But not this year.
Today is my Mom's Birthday, and here is the bed that we made for her.
If the bed looks familiar, it's because my mom once commented that she liked Pottery Barn's Somerset Bed, but in White. Really pretty in a stain, eh? (for those of you who checked out the link)
Painting this bed was quite easy in this nifty paint booth made of 2x2s and tarps (the Ram's invention) but making the decision to go through with painting it . . . not easy.
This is what the headboard looked like before any wood filler or sanding. And yes, those are stud grade 2x4s and 2x6s. Amazing how beautiful lumber can be.
And here is two coats of Antique White by Valspar, Flat Enamel, over primer. I'm still playing with the idea of distressing the edges ever so slightly to bring out the moulding in this bed. What would you do? We of course will need to add a final top coat.
The bed stands alone well with the frame secured to the headboard. We choose a 2x4 joist system which will get topped with plywood because we live in a very dry climate, and do not have to worry about mildew buildup in this particular application. Slats are recommended (or a box spring) for those of you who live in a humid climate, but nothing beats the sturdiness and quick setup of plywood.
If you are thinking this might be a cute Valentine's Day project, go for it. The Ram and I worked together on this bed, and we finished the headboard in about two hours. The most time consuming part was the moulding. Believe it or not, because we are nailgun-less the moulding is simply glued and clamped on - and it's not going anywhere. Unless the bed goes too, of course.
3 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2×6 @ stud or 8 foot length
8 – 2×4 @ stud or 8 foot length
1- 1×3 @ 8 foot length
1 – 1×8 @ 12 feet long
1 – 1×8 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2×2 @ 30″ long
2 1/2″ wood screws
3″ wood screws
1 1/4″ finish nails or wood screws
wood glue, wood filler, sandpaper (medium grit) and other finishing supplies
10 – 1×6 @ 24″ (Panel Boards – cut panel boards at 23 7/8″ to account for saw blade if you need to conserve boards)
2 – 1×2 @ 24″ (Side Trim for Panel – cut at 20 7/8″ if you cut your panel boards at 23 7/8″)
2 – 1×2 @ 55″ (Top/Bottom Panel Trim)
1 – 2×6 @ 55″ (Base of Panel)
2 – 2×4 @ 48″ (Legs)
1 – 1×3 @ 64″ (Top of Headboard)
5 – 2×4 @ 57″ (Joists)
2 – 2×4 @ 80″ (Sides of Bed Frame)
2 – 1×8 @ 80″ (Siderails)
1 – 1×8 @ 61 1/2″ (Footrail)
2 – 2×2 @ 14 1/2″ (Legs)
2 – 2×4 @ 14 1/2″ (Legs)
1 – 8′ Stick of Chair Rail like this one from Lowes (use this stick on the bottom tier of the headboard)
3 – 8′ Sticks of Base Cap like this from Lowes (use this type of moulding to trim panel and for the top tier on the headboard)
Build the Headboard Panel
If you have a finish nailer, it’ll be a two second job to attach the trim to the panel boards. Otherwise, screw from the back with 1 1/4″ screws to hide your screw holes. Use glue and adjust for square, squaring ends up. I used screws.
Now attach the base to the panel. You won’t need a ton of screws, so if you only have a countersink bit, you can carefully predrill holes at an angle. Use 2 1/2″ screws and wood glue. I thought about recommending brackets, but for the cost of the brackets, you could purchase a Kreg Jig™, so I scrapped that idea.
Attach the Legs to the Headboard Panel
Same as the base, attach the legs from back of the headboard
Headboard Top Panel
Now the top panel. If you are really nervous about trying what would be called “toenailing” if you were using nails (screwing at an angle) a scrap piece of 1/4″ plywood that covers the entire panel and overlaps the legs and top and bottom could do the trick too.
Top of Headboard
An easy step. Keep the top flush with the back. Glue and nail in place
This is the trickiest part, so definitely do some testing before you make your final cuts. All corners are at 45 degree angles. Use a miter box or a miter saw to carefully make your cuts. I did not give measurements here because you should fit your moulding perfectly to your bed rather than my measurements. If you have a finish nailer and 1″ finish nails, glue and nail in place. Otherwise, glue and clamp in place. Avoid letting glue dry on bare wood, as those areas will not accept stain.
There are many many ways to build a bed frame, but this is probably my favorite. We do live in a dry climate, so a plywood frame may make more sense for us than you. Make sure you check out our other bed frames if a plywood platform does not work for you. We simply screwed 2x4s together, just like you would to build a wall. Adjust for square. Use glue and 3″ screws countersunk.
Now these are your pretty boards. Either screw from the inside with 2″ screws and glue or use finish nails from the outsides.
Legs and Assembly
Build your bottom legs as shown above and then attach to the bed frame, flush on top. Then mark the legs on the headboard at 14 1/2″ as shown in the diagram and predrill holes from the back of the headboard into the frame boards. Attach with 3″ screws and NO glue.
Fill any exposed holes or imperfections with wood filler and let dry. Apply a second coat if necessary. Sand with medium grit sandpaper in the direction of the wood. Vacuum and wipe clean. Prime and paint or stain as desired. For use without a box spring, you will need to add plywood on top of the bed frame or wood slats.
Big Ur Farm Table and Bench
A substantial leg modern version of the Farmhouse Table.
Today I had a photo shoot for Fresh Home Magazine (make sure you get signed up for your free issue so you'll get to read the article when it publishes) and the set just needed something . . . more than a honeysuckle pink bench . . . . it needed a farm table. And you know me, if I get a chance to build a farm table, I'm building it!
It just so happens that I was in The Home Depot last week and spotted these gorgeous 4x4 posts, just $12 for a 10' long post. Some quick math 30" x 4 legs = 10 feet, and I was tracking down an orange apron and begging the associate to cut the post down into exactly 29 7/8" pieces (saw blade takes up the other 1/8"). The associate looked at me like, of course, lady, we do this every day, and made perfect cuts for me.
So I need a farm table, had 4 - 29 7/8" long 4x4 posts . . . you take a guess. What Farm Table should we build?
Many of our readers have been requesting plans for a table inspired by Crate and Barrel's Big Sur Collection. This is what they would call a win-win-win situation.
Me especially wins :) I'm having a hard time NOT moving this table into my teeny dining space or moving my computer and other office mess on top of it.
We had scrap 2x4s leftover (yes, can you believe these are the scrap pieces?) so I used them as a tabletop - thus the breadboard on the end. Aren't those 4x4s beautiful? I just sanded the whole table and haven't decided on a finish yet. For the photo shoot, au natural was best. What do you suggest?
The plans here will show you how to build a 65" x 35" x 30" dining table, but I'll also give measurements for the bench in this post. I can't show you more of the table just yet because it's part of the photo shoot, but you get the idea.
The beauty of this table is highly dependent on your access to high quality 4x4 posts. If you can't find beautiful 4x4 posts at Lowes or Home Depot or Menards, try a specialty hardwood dealer. Also, for those of you excited about spring being just around the corner, you could use cedar 4x4s and make this an outdoor table. For water drainage, I suggest spacing the tabletop boards about 1/4" apart, and also cedar boards for the tabletop and supports.
1- 10′ long 4×4 Post, cut into 29 7/8″ pieces
10 – 2×4, 8 foot or stud length
4 – 2×2 @ 8 foot long
1 – 2×3 @ 6 foot long
2 1/2″ Screws
Wood Glue and Finishing Supplies
4 – 4×4 Post @ 29 7/8″ (Legs)
6 – 2×2 @ 30″ (Joists)
8 – 2×4 @ 65″ (Tabletop Boards)
2 – 2×4 @ 58″ (Tabletop Side Boards)
2 – 2×3 @ 28″ (End Joists – you could use 2x2s here if you cannot find 2x3s)
2 – 2×2 @ 58″ (Side Aprons)
Bench mods as shown above.
For those of you with a Kreg Jig™, you will want to build your tabletop first (all 10 tabletop boards) with a Kreg Jig™ and then add the supports. For those of you without a Kreg Jig™, the pocket holes will make your joints between the tabletop boards smooth and tight (like mine in the photo) but if you just can’t afford one, you can screw through the supports into the underside of the tabletop boards, minimizing the gaps between the tabletop boards as you go. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue. For those of you looking for that super smooth tabletop – you could run your 2x4s through a table saw and trim off any rounded edges first but beware that this will change the dimensions of your support boards. I did not run mine through a tablesaw, and think that’s what a farm table is all about – being a little rustic and obviously made of real boards. Predrill all holes.
Add the top ends as shown above. Minimize the gap between the tabletop boards and predrill and screw down with 2 1/2″ screws and glue.
Now add the side aprons by screwing to both the tabletop end boards and the joists. Use glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Predrill all holes.
I used pocket holes to attach the legs, but you can accomplish the same thing with a countersink bit. Just carefully predrill a hole with the countersink bit at an angle from the underside of the table into each of the legs. Then attach the legs with screws and glue as shown above. The more different directions that you can put screws into the legs, the less likely the leg will wobble in the future. Don’t forget the glue.
There should be no exposed holes visible on the outside of the table. I simply sanded my table with 120 grit sandpaper and vacuumed clean. Make sure you stain or seal your table to keep the wood from accepting food or other unwanted stains.
Vintage Step Stool
A vintage look step stool featuring two steps and a decorative footer.
Before Christmas, I drew up this plan and meant to get to it by the Holidays. But reality happens, and I just don't get as much done as I could hope. So a printout of this plan got burried on my steel magnet wall for a month or two . . . until yesterday.
I'm working on a photo shoot for Fresh Home magazine (so excited that they have asked me to do another project for their fabulous magazine! You can go here to get signed up to get your free issue.) and the shot just needed . . . something. Something a tad vintage, a little not perfect, and a lot useful.
I wanted this stool to look well-used and far from perfect, thus the heavy distressing and uneven jigsaw cuts and exposed screws. To get this finish, I simply painted one coat of flat honeysuckle pink paint (Premium Paint by Behr in Flat) with a brush and let dry overnight. This is very important. If you begin distressing too soon, the paint will come off in gooey chunks, as opposed to a-little-wear-over-alot-of-years looking. Then just started sanding with a power sander and medium grit sandpaper, concentrating on the areas that would get natural wear. If you wanted to stain the exposed wood, you would need to apply a clear coat before sanding. The clear coat protects the non distressed areas from accepting the stain, with the exposed wood area accepting the stain. You can go the other route - stain before paint, but you would need to add primer because it's difficult to put paint over stain.
1 – 1×12 @ 32″ (Sides)
1 – 1×2 @ 50″
1 – 1×8 @ 32″ (Treads)
2″ screws or 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
wood glue, wood filler and finishing supplies
2 – 1×12 @ 15 1/2″ (Sides – cut out in step 1)
4 – 1×2 @ 12 1/2″ (Supports)
2 – 1×8 @ 15″ (Treads)
Use the measurements above to cut from the 1x12s sides as shown above. Use a jigsaw. Once you have on side cut out, use it as a pattern for the other side. Take note of which side of the line you should cut on and take your time cutting. Sand edges so the two pieces are the same.
Attach the bottom supports with screws and glue. I used pocket hole screws, but you can also use 2″ wood screws and a good old countersink bit.
Now attach the top supports in the same way as the bottom supports.
Now add the tops. I simply screwed through the tops, but you could screw from the supports (with glue of course) to hide your screw holes.