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posted by Ana White

Free plans to build a toy or tv armoire from Ana-White.com

Toy or TV Armoire

Additional Photos

Toy or TV Armoire
Toy or TV Armoire

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About Project

Author Notes: 

Hey DIY Friends!

I hope you had a wonderful Mother's Day weekend! We sure did!

It wasn't moving day as we'd hoped :( but we did take Mom out to dinner to soothe things over. I think she still loves us.

Speaking of amazing Mom's - my friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic wanted to add storage to her daughter's room, so she built her daughter a toy armoire!

I was so honored that Whitney asked me to work with her on these plans, and we both love how this piece turned out!

Here's from Whitney:

Although the size is a bit intimidating, this build is very basic!  I had the armoire built for around $200 which is amazing compared to the original $1300 price tag!  My little girl loves it, and I love the added storage!



Thanks Whitney!  Of course, you have to go visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to see her step by step building process and get all the details on the supplies and tools she used, and how she finished this toy armoire!


We'll also be adding a drawer insert for even more storage and organization inside - so stay tuned for those plans!  Enjoy the plans following! 

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Toy or TV Armoire
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above Note in cut list, I shortened the entire project by 1" to allow for more efficient plywood cuts.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

2 - sheets 3/4" plywood ripped into 21 3/4" wide strips
2 - sheets 1/4" plywood (for back and doors)
8 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 1/4" pocket hole screws, 1 1/4" and 2" finish nails
6 hinges
2 magnetic clasps
2 knobs

Cut List

Cut List: 

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 21 3/4" x 59" (sides)*
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 21 3/4" x 42" (top)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 21 3/4" x 36 1/2" (shelves)
4 - 1x3 @ 59" (side frame)*
4 - 1x4 @ 18 1/4" (side frame)
2 - 1x3 @ 18 1/4" (side frame)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 59 3/4" x 38 1/2" (back)*
2 - 2x2 @ 38" (top/bottom supports)
1 - 1x3 @ 42" (top front)
1 - 1x4 @ 41" (long point to long point, both ends cut NOT parallel at 45 degree BEVEL)
2 - 1x4 @ 24" (long point, one end cut at 45 degree BEVEL)
1 - 1x2 @ 42 1/2" (long point to long point, both ends cut NOT parallel at 45 degree ANGLE)
2 - 1x2 @ 24 3/4" (long point, one end cut at 45 degree ANGLE)
Additional shelves are 3/4" plywood @ 21 3/4" x 36 1/2"

DOORS - MEASURE AND CUT TO FIT!!!
4 - 1x3 @ 52 1/4"*
6 - 1x3 @ 13 3/4" (cut these to fit as 1x3 widths may vary in size - overall door width should be 18 3/4" or half the overall opening minus 1/4")
1/4" back plywood is 18 3/4" x 52 1/4"*

*Starred cut list items have been shortened by 1" and will not match diagrams. This is because I opted to shorten to make the pieces fit on a single sheet of plywood.

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Toy or TV Armoire

Attach sides to the top and ad bottom shelf. Note all overhangs and mark before attaching. Recommended joinery is 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

NOTE: I shortened the side length by 1" to allow for plywood cutting efficiency. This does not change placement of bottom shelf.

Step 2

Toy or TV Armoire

Build the side frames separately, and then attach to sides of the toy armoire, with the back flush to the back of the plywood. Front will overhang 1 1/2".

Step 3

Toy or TV Armoire

Attach back to back with glue and finish nails.

Step 4

Toy or TV Armoire

Attach top and bottom with 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/2" pocket hole screws. Hide pocket holes on underside of bottom, top side of top.

Step 5

Toy or TV Armoire

Attach top front header with finish nails and glue.

Step 6

Toy or TV Armoire

Attach base to the bottom.

Step 7

Toy or TV Armoire

Cut out with a jigsaw as shown above in diagram.

Step 8

Toy or TV Armoire

Cut top of footer and nail and glue in place.

Step 9

Toy or TV Armoire

Add shelves to the armoire if desired. We will be adding a drawer insert plan soon too!

Step 10

Toy or TV Armoire

Measure and build your doors to fit, leaving about 1/8" gap around all sides.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
posted by Ana White

I am so proud to tell you that we have indeeded finished putting up all the drywall in the Momplex!

You know the upstairs has been done for quite a while.

But then we stopped and put in an above the floor heat system in the upstairs. We kept the downstairs free of drywall to hook up all the water lines to the upstairs heat system.

But that wasn't the only thing keeping us from finishing up the Momplex.

Biggest hurdle?

The weather. Normally, spring comes in April in Alaska for us.

Well, it's a month late, and it's still cold enough to need a heat system inside the Momplex.

That heat system is here borrowed wood stove.

Downstairs Drywall

We are very thankful to have this wood stove to keep the Momplex warm enough to work in. But as long as this wood stove is here, we can't finish building the walls for the boiler room (it sits too close to the wall and would be a fire hazard).

If we can't finish the wall framing, we can't finish electrical and plumbing either.

But if we pull the wood stove, it's too cold to work inside.

After months of waiting on the weather to warm up, we finally just gave up and turned to our on-again/off-again buddy Craig S. List.

Downstairs Drywall

Craig is a hit or miss buddy of ours, sometimes he comes through, and sometimes he doesn't.

Well, he sure came through for us this time.

I don't think I could love a heater more than this slightly used, rather loud BTU blower. It's an Alaska girl thing - something about feeling your fingers and toes again make you get that warm fuzzy feeling all over and hover around it like a obsessed groupie.

Downstairs Drywall

With a new heat source, first thing we did was yank the wood stove and build the boiler room walls.

Downstairs Drywall

Then we ran the water supply and return lines to the plumbing manifolds.

Downstairs Drywall

The white lines are the drinking water lines. The red lines supply the upstairs heat system.

Downstairs Drywall

The heat system lines come in right above where the basement in floor heat system comes in, so when we do hook the permanent boiler system up, it's all right there.

The household water lines come in on the other side of the boiler room.

Downstairs Drywall

With the boiler room walls up, we can finally finish up all the electrical in the basements.

We are pretty excited to be putting away the electrical tools!

Downstairs Drywall

And hanging the rest of the drywall!!!

Uncle Bill, Grandpa Tim and the Ram's cousin Jared helped hang all the drywall in the basement.

Downstairs Drywall

With only three rooms per unit downstairs, this drywalling went really fast.

Downstairs Drywall

We also choose to use 54" wide sheets to minimize the mud seams in the basement, since we've got 9' walls downstairs.

Downstairs Drywall

Why is it the mechanical systems can take so long, and just make a bigger mess? But one good day of drywall can look like a ton of work was done?

Downstairs Drywall

Instead of buying access panel covers and boxes, we just framed the manifolds out in wood. I'll make a door for them later on.

You and I know what goes on inside these walls, but to everyone else - this is all they will every see.

Downstairs Drywall

Doesn't that boiler room look a lot better now?

Downstairs Drywall

And check out these stairs ....

Downstairs Drywall

What a difference drywall makes! 

We are done will all of the drywall in the Momplex! 

So done, in fact, that we took all the scraps over to our other job site.

And went Mother's Day shopping ....

Yep, it's happening.  

posted by Ana White

Free plans to build a Land of Nod Good Read inspired book caddy. Your kids will love putting their books away at just their height at an angle. DIY tutorial from Ana-White.com.

X Book Caddy

Additional Photos

X Book Caddy
X Book Caddy
X Book Caddy
X Book Caddy

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

About Project

Author Notes: 

Super sweet plan treat today!!!

 

You did ask!

My friend Gina from Lady Goats built this X Book Caddy - of course inspired by the Land of Nod Good Read Book Caddy (retail $149) - from solid wood boards for less than $20! 

I love how this little book caddy is right at the little one's height, and places the books at an angle so they are easy to put away and take out.

Well, I want you to hear straight from Gina how easy these were to build - and see more pictures and construction photos and details on the finish - so please take a second to go visit Gina here.

PS - Love the bookshelves in the background? Of course those are DIY too - plans are here!

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
X Book Caddy
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

2 - 1x2 @ 8'
1 - 1x3 @ 4'
1 - 1x4 @ 4'
1 - 1x6 @ 4'

Recommended attachment is 3/4" pocket holes and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
jigsaw
compound miter saw
sander

Cut List

Cut List: 

2 - 1x2 @ 22"
4 - 1x2 @ 10 1/4"
2 - 1x2 @ 12 1/2" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square not parallel)
2 - 1x2 @ 14 3/4" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square not parallel)
2 - 1x6 @ 24" (bottom shelf)
2 - 1x4 @ 24" (top shelf bottom slat)
2 - 1x3 @ 24" (top shelf middle slat)
2 - 1x2 @ 24" (top shelf top slat)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

X Book Caddy

Don't round the corners at the top and bottom ends yet - it'll be easier to do that last.

The easiest way to join these board is with a single 3/4" pocket hole and 1 1/4" pocket hole screw - use glue. Make sure the two ends match up.

Step 2

X Book Caddy

Now attach the bottom support to the bottom - remember to put these on the insides. I'd use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue or countersunk screws.

Step 3

X Book Caddy

Attach bottom shelf boards to bottom rungs. Again, I'd use the 1 1/4" screws or finish nails and glue.

Step 4

X Book Caddy

These can be either attached with pocket holes or countersunk screws and glue.

Once these guys are on, you can have at it with the jigsaw and round those top corners off.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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We are DIYing our moms a Duplex in Alaska! Check out our progress so far as we owner build a home, step by step. Read the Momplex blog here.