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posted by Ana White

free plans for large octagon table with pedestal base and truss supports from Ana-White.com

Benchmark Octagon Table

Additional Photos

Benchmark Octagon Table
Benchmark Octagon Table
Benchmark Octagon Table

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About Project

Author Notes: 

You are really going to love what we have in store for you today! My dear friend Ashley from Shanty2Chic just moved into a new house - and instead of moving her furniture, she's going the DIY route!  Here's the first of many to come ...

So beautiful!

Here's from Ashley:

 I’m so excited about this table.  We just moved into our new home and because I knew that I would want to build new furniture for this house, we decided to sell our old furniture instead of moving it.  This table is the very first piece of furniture that I have built for our new house and it was very quick and easy!  It may look a little intimidating, with all of the angle cuts, but if you have the right tools it’s a piece of cake! 

I was not only surprised at how quick it was to put together but I was SHOCKED by the price tag - $110 for a table that will seat 6!!  I love how great it fits in my breakfast nook, we really needed a round table for the space and Ana nailed it with the octagon shape! It makes such a statement in our home!  Thank you so much Ana!

Of course, we are sharing the same plans Ashley used to build this table below - but before we get to the plans, please take a second to check out Ashley's building post for lots more photos, building tips, and to find out what type of finish she used!

Thanks Ashley!

Enjoy the plans!

XO Ana + FAM

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Benchmark Octagon Table
Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

7 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long (cut longest first)
2- 2x2 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long
1 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
2 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long
screws and nails

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
nailer
sander

Cut List

Cut List: 

BASE PIECES
4 - 1x6 @ 5-1/4" (long point measurment, one end cut at 30 degree bevel)
2 - 1x6 @ 18-1/2" (long point measurmenet, one end cut at 30 degree bevel)
2 - 2x6 @ 18-1/8" (long point measurmenet, one end cut at 45 degree bevel)
2 - 1x6 @ 16-1/8"
1 - 1x6 @ 44" (long point measurmenet, both ends cut at 30 degree bevel)
1 - 2x6 @ 43-1/8" (long point measurmenet, both ends cut at 45 degree bevel)
1 - 1x6 @ 39-1/8"

CENTER PEDESTAL
2 - 1x8 @ 27-3/4"
1 - 1x8 @ 5-1/2" (cut to width of 1x6s)
2 - 1x6 @ 24"
2 - 2x6 @ 23 1/4"
1 - 2x8 @ 52"

TABELTOP
4 - 1x6 @ 56-1/2"
2 - 1x6 @ 56-1/2" CUT TO FIT!!! (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
2 - 1x6 @ 45-1/2" CUT TO FIT!!! (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
2 - 1x6 @ 34-1/2" CUT TO FIT!!! (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)

CUT 2x2 trim pieces to fit

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Benchmark Octagon Table

Start by building the two shorter feet - use glue when nailing.

Step 2

Benchmark Octagon Table

Then attach to uprights that make up the pedestal.

Step 3

Benchmark Octagon Table

You'll want the center of the pedestal to sit on the floor, so that's why we do this. Attach the two shorter feet pieces together.

Step 4

Benchmark Octagon Table

Now build the longer, continuous leg piece that makes up the remaining two feet.

Step 5

Benchmark Octagon Table

Now place the longer feet section inside the pedestal - starting to look like a table base!!!

Step 6

Benchmark Octagon Table

And then attach the remaining pedestal pieces.

Step 7

Benchmark Octagon Table

Build the top support base and attach to top of pedestal.

Step 8

Benchmark Octagon Table

Build your tabletop - cut each angled piece to fit.

Step 9

Benchmark Octagon Table

Trim the tabletop out with 2x2s, and then attach the top to the base.

Step 10

Benchmark Octagon Table

Add the cross supports underneath.

If you saw won't cut a 55 degree bevel, you can alter the bevel down to what your saw will cut (ie 40/50 or 45/45 instead of the 35/55).

And that's it!!!

Step 11

Benchmark Octagon Table

For more details on the finish, more photos, and for building tips, please visit Ashley at Shanty2Chic.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
posted by Ana White

how to build floating shelves industrial style by Ana-White.com

Easiest Floating Shelves

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

No brag posts have been found yet. Have you built this project? Please help other by submitting brag posts.

About Project

Author Notes: 

They really should warn you at the hospital when you bring your new baby home that not only will you never sleep the same, ever again, but that your house will never be the same, ever again.

Yeah, once upon a time, I swore there'd never be a fisherprice bouncy thingy in my living room or a yard full of primary colored playschool stuff.  That was once upon a time.

They really should put me in a Luvs commercial ... they really should.

You live, you learn, then you get Luvs, right?

BUT that doesn't mean you can't try to keep some style, right? 

So in our baby's room (which used to be my office - you'll recognize the magnetic metal wall) I decided to build floating shelves.  

But not just any floating shelves.

These have got to be the easiest to build ever (made by a mother of a six week old baby!) - no saw even required! - and the sturdiest.  

Here's how I made them:

I bought some 8 foot long pine boards - a 1x12 and a 1x4 for each shelf.  I bought the boards in the length of shelf I wanted to make, so no cutting required.

I applied glue to one edge of the 1x12.

And then I clamped the 1x4 to the 1x12.

And used my Ryobi AirStrike stapler to staple the 1x4 to the front of the 1x12.

The shelf is pretty much built!  Now I need to stain it.

Like the changing table, I used RustOleum WoodStain in Carrington. 

I love the RustOleum stains because they are one step - brush on, wait a bi, and wipe off.  The color is nice and rich too!

While the shelves are drying, I worked on the hardware part.

I purchased a wire shelf track system (they are super cheap) a while back for a closet I've since redone, so I decided to use those instead of purchase new ones.

Only problem is the tracks are black and I wanted the tracks to blend with the metal wall.

Miracle in a bottle does exist.

I sprayed the uprights with the metal paint and let them dry.

Once the upright tracks were dry, I located studs in the wall, and attached them to the wall with screws.

You can barely see them on the wall! This would work on a white wall with white spray paint, or you could even spray on a color similar to your wall paint color.

The support brackets are still black because they will be hidden underneath.  I then just placed the brackets where I wanted the shelves to go.

And then just hauled the shelves in and hoisted them up there.

And then screwed the support brackets to the underside of the shelves to make sure the shelf doesn't come off the bracket.

Each eight foot shelf ended up being under $20!!!!

And the shelves are exceptionally sturdy - no worries about them falling or sagging.

NOTE: Your shelves will be as sturdy as your hardware system, and will hold weight up to the max listed on the hardware system you purchase.

Bring on the baby stuff!

You live, you learn, you get Luvs ... and then you put them in a pretty box.

Thanks for reading - hope you found this DIY project helpful!

XO Ana + FAM

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
posted by Ana White

tutorial for industrial pipe bed from Ana-White.com

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Additional Photos

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed
Pipe and Wood Slat Bed
Pipe and Wood Slat Bed
Pipe and Wood Slat Bed
Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

No brag posts have been found yet. Have you built this project? Please help other by submitting brag posts.

About Project

Author Notes: 

Happy Friday Folks!

I can't tell you how excited today to share these brand spanking hot off the press plans with you today!!!

My dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter wanted to collaborate on a industrial style bed for her son's room, so we hatched a plan involving screw together iron pipes and wood slats.  And this is what Jaime came up with!

What could be better than a bed made of iron pipes?  Why one with some wood mixed in too!

This is truly a one-of-a-kind unique piece, that you can only get by DIY-ing!

Are you smitten or what???

Jaime has been so generous to share these plans with you below - seriously, this one really is all her and her step by step instructions are meticulously detailed - so please, take a sec to stop over and check out her building post and say THANK YOU for this awesome tute!  

Thanks Jaime!!!

Plans follow!

Have a great weekend.  XO Ana + FAM

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Pipe and Wood Slat Bed
Dimensions: 
Pipe & wood slat twin bed Overall dimensions: 45”h x 79”l x 41 ½”w Headboard: 45”h x 41 ½”w Footboard: 35”h x 41 ½”w Floor clearance: 10”

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

Shopping List
2 – 1x8x8 pine boards
1 – 1x8x6 pine board
2 – 2x4x8 studs
8 – 1x3x8 furring strips
2” wood screws
1 ½” wood screws

ALL GALVANIZED STEEL:
*2 – 1” pipe @ 75”l
*4 – 1” pipe @ 18”l
5 – ¾” pipe @ 36”l
14 – 1” nipple @ 8”l
4 – 1” close nipple
14 – 1” threaded tee
4 – 1” 90 degree elbow
4 – 1” x 1 ¼” coupling (feet)
2 – 1” threaded coupling
10 – 1” x ¾” bushing
20 – 1” split ring pipe hanger
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cramik-Enterprises-1-in-Galvanized-Split-Ring...
*cut to length and threaded at hardware store

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil

Cut List

Cut List: 

WOOD CUT LIST
5 – 1x8 @ 37 ¾”l (wood slats)
2 – 2x4 @ 74”l (platform supports)
16 – 1x3 furring @ 41 ¼”l (mattress supports)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Notes: No glue was used on any pipes or pipe-to-wood connections. Only hand tighten until your are confident of pipe placement, it took me multiple tries to get it all connected just right – lots of screwing and unscrewing to figure out the proper connections - but that’s the beauty of working with pipe.

The most difficult portion will be connecting the siderails to the footboard and headboard since the pipe screws together in the same direction on both ends (if you’re screwing in one end essentially you are unscrewing the other end simultaneously). Follow the step by step instructions carefully.

Step 2

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Build only one leg of the footboard as shown by screwing the pieces together until snug.

Step 3

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Prepare horizontal pipe support pieces as shown.

Step 4

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Prepare ONLY the foot portion of the other leg (1 x ¼ coupling, 1” x 8” nipple and 1” threaded tee) and connect 1” x 75”l pipe to this foot portion only.

Step 5

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Connect other 1” x 75” siderail pipe to completed leg of footboard.

Repeat this process (steps 2 – 4) for the headboard adding one more tee and 1” x 8” nipple into leg build to create space for 3 slats. Prepare one more ¾” horizontal pipe section as well. ATTACHING THE SIDERAILS: BE SURE TO ATTACH THE COMPLETED LEG OF THE HEADBOARD TO THE FOOT PORTION ONLY OF THE FOOTBOARD and COMPLETED LEG OF FOOTBOARD TO THE FOOT PORTION ONLY OF HEADBOARD. This will enable you to screw siderails in completely by spinning the foot portion on the opposing corners.

At both the footboard and headboard connect one horizontal ¾” pipe support piece to 2nd tee from bottom on completed leg then add one tee to open end of horizontal support pipe piece.

At both the footboard and headboard use the 1” close nipple connect the open tee from the horizontal pipe section with the tee from the foot portion only:
(Now you should have a sturdy completed rectangle bed shape.)

Step 6

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Prepare wood slats. Predrill 1 ½” from outer edge for 2 split ring pipe hangers.

Step 7

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Attach pipe hangers using 2” wood screws, be sure hanger is perpendicular to wood board

Step 8

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

On the footboard slip one end of wood slat into completed leg side of footboard then with other end of wood slat in place screw in the next 1” x 8” nipple pipe piece. DO NOT TIGHTEN PIPE HANGERS YET.

Step 9

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Screw on next tee piece then screw next ¾” horizontal support pipe piece:

• Tip: screw horizontal pipe all the way into the completed leg side first then connect to other leg. It’s a give and take with the horizontal pipes and bushing pieces because they all screw in the same direction, eventually they will get tight just keep working back and forth from one side to the other.

• The paper towel wrapped around the joint is preventing oil from dripping onto the floor. (The ¾” x 36” pipe is a stock item but my Home Depot was out at the time therefore I had to have those pieces cut, when they cut the pipe they use a thick dark oil which seeps a bit once settled.)

Step 10

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Center wood slat between horizontal pipes with even spacing on both top and bottom then secure pipe hangers to pipes with equal pressure on both screws.

Step 11

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Prepare the next wood slat and repeat the process adding another 1” x 8” nipple. On top of the nipple screw in one 90 degree elbow. On the open end of the elbow screw in one 18” piece of 1” pipe and on the completed leg side screw in the other 18” pipe with a coupling. Tighten the pipe hangers and screw together the middle portion of the coupling and pipe.

(headboard pictured above but we’re finishing the footboard)

REPEAT steps 8 – 11 for the headboard.

Step 12

Pipe and Wood Slat Bed

Build the mattress platform. Attach cross supports to studs using countersink and 1 ½” wood screws.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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