Community Brag Posts

I used your guide for the shiplap fireplace and paired it with some ikea bookcases. Surprised the wife with it and she was completely blown away.

The wife has a hard time bending down so she wanted pedestals for the washer and dryer.  The metal ones with a drawer were too tall.  I showed her Sausha's and she really loved that design.  I basically used the same construction plans idea from Sausha's project and some tips from Ryan's brag post.  But, I wanted to beef it up some.  I didn't like the L-bracket to attach the top and 4X4 legs.  It didn't seem sturdy enough for me.  I used my table saw to square the edges on the 4X4 posts and the 2X6 rails.  Then I used my Kreg jig and glued and screwed everything together.  I liked Ryan's trim ideas, so I used baseboard trim for the bottom and flipped it for the top trim.  I made a 1/2" lip so if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer would not fall.  I put the trim on the bottom of the legs and was considering putting on the top but I put some different trim all the way around the bottom of the 2X6 rails.  The wife liked that.  I also added some carpet on the top to cut down on vibration and to help keep the units in place. I also put some 4X4 pieces of carpet on the bottom to keep the noise down and to help in moving it. I primed and used an gravity sprayer to paint it.  Then I put 3 coats of polyacrylic to help in cleaning and to cut down on scratches from the laundry baskets. 

Used the heavy galvanized mesh to make it more chew proof. Obviously it hasn't been painted and stained yet. It took quite a bit more work than the plan to rabbit out for the steel. I'm pleased with the outcome. 

I recently had a workshop built and I have been trying to now work on the furniture for it. My first project was this workbench inspired by the plans "garage workshop workbench". I added drawers on each side and will probably end up adding a shelf in the open area as well after letting my kids finish decorating the top. It's already a nice addition and I may build a smaller version for my garage. I added casters and have the option to roll the table around or have it stationary.

Modified the original plan to meet our needs of a laundry sorter. Had problems with the hinges so ditched them. I used dowels with a combination of a chamfer cut on the bottom of the door. Dado-ed the trim on the doors and slide the bead board panels in. The face frame is all held together with pocket hole screws, which I highly recommend because it eliminates nail holes and keeps the face frame square. This was my first wood working project, took me a little long to get it done. Thanks for looking.

Modified January 28

So here are some more pictures of my project. I don't really have any good pictures of the dowels. But what I can tell you is, I drilled holes through the sides of the face frame and the trim pieces and then measured where the holes would be in relation to the "drawer". I then drilled holes in the drawers at those measurements, I was careful to not go to deep. I think I went in half an inch. After that I started at one end and placed the dowels in, then put each drawer in. It wasn't easy but with a little patience it worked. The key is to wax the dowels so they will last longer as well. I also am including pictures of the top and bottom trim. On the top the original plans called for an overhang piece and I didn't like the way that looked. I ran the top board an inch long on each side and then wrapped it in quarter round trim. I did this because I plan on adding the Mimi Hutch Top. The bottom was built per the plan, but I ran into a problem with my bottom trim not being level and you could tell. So I raised the whole unit on 1 1/2 legs then placed it on a level surface and again wrapped it in a decorative trim. The key on both trims was a nice miter joint. Last picture I added was of my stoppers. I took scrap from the 1x2 trim and cut them to an inch and a half or two (can't really remember), then using the Kreg Jig drill bit drilled recessed holes. I then opened the doors until the side 45s were level then mounted the blocks on each side. I feel that it is better than a chain or string catch. Again thanks for looking and I hope I answered all of your questions.

I used cedar deck boards and rails to make this chair - A little more costly, but definitely worth it!

The seat and back rest were made using 5/4 x 6" boards. I cut them 1/2" to 3/4" longer so that they would overhang the supports - for a more finished look. The 2x2 rails came with an angled cut, so I decided to use that to my advantage on the back supports - I made them a bit longer so they would sit higher on the back rest, and I think the angled cut looks a little more "friendly". All screws were left exposed, since this is an outdoor cedar chair.

The table in the photo is an original picnic table from the 1920's, complete with the original paint. It folds flat for storage. I hope to measure it someday and make a plan to build a reproduction - If that ever happens, I will post it on Ana's site.

Thanks Ana for the great plans!