Build your own master closet system. This sturdy, freestanding closet can be customized to suit your space and needs. Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com
- 4x8 sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood (1 sheet per tower plus an additional sheet for shelving) OR 3/4" thick melamine or particle board shelving like this (about three 8 foot long shelves per tower)
- IF using the melamine strips, you'll need 1x3s for the top shelf supports, one 1x3 per opening, IF using the plywood sheets, there will be an extra scrap about 2-1/2" wide, you can use this scrap for the supports
- 2 - 2x4s (use 2x6s if your base moulding is over 3-1/2" tall) in the entire length of the closet run (as shown in diagram this is 12' long) PLUS 24" for the ends of the base
- 5 feet of 1x6 or 1x8 boards (width of board determines drawer box depth) PER drawer
- 1 set of 14" euro style drawer slides PER drawer
- Closet rod sockets (one set per each run of closet rod)
- Wood closet rods (max run is about 48" without additional support)
- 1-1/4" Kreg Pocket Hole Screws OR 2" self tapping construction screws (#7 or #8)
- 1-1/4" and 3/4" brad nails (can use screws if you don't have a brad nailer)
- 2-3/4" self tapping wood screws (#8 or #9) - you'll just need 8 for building the base but these are good to keep around for a variety of uses and projects, and can also be used to anchor the closet to the wall
- Wood glue
- 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15" x 81" OR melamine shelf board @ 81" - sides of tower
- 3 - 3/4" plywood @ 15" x 14-1/2" OR melamine shelf board @ 14-1/2" - fixed shelves
- Additional shelves are 3/4" plywood @ 15" x 14-1/2" OR melamine shelf board @ 14-1/2" - additional shelves
Cut list per ONE drawer
- 4 - 1x6 or 1x8 @ 13-1/2"
- 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 13-1/2" x 15"
Cut list for base
- 2 - 2x4 or 2x6 for taller baseboards @ overall length of closet
- 2 - 2x4 or 2x6 for taller baseboards @ 10"
Cuts for Shelves in Between Towers
- 3/4" plywood 15" wide, cut to fit in between the towers on installation
- 1x3 or scrap plywood cut to fit in between the towers on installation
- Rip plywood sheets into three pieces, 8 feet long x 15" wide. If you don't have a table saw or other rip guide, you can have your hardware store do this on their track saw - just make sure the rips are exactly the same. Request to have the saw set and the plywood run through the saw horizontally for consistency.
- Save the remaining scrap piece to use as supports
- Cut the ripped pieces of plywood on a sliding miter saw (may need to flip and cut both sides) or use a circular saw and a square to make square cuts. Sacrificial styrofoam panels under the plywood for support will make cutting much easier.
Add additional shelves as desired. As shown, there is a 12" space between the shelves.
For the drawer boxes, build the box first using the same fastener as you used for building the tower.
Attach bottom 1/4" plywood with 3/4" brad nails and glue.
Install the drawer boxes using the drawer slides.
TIP: You may wish to finish the towers at this point.
Cut two 2x4s to the entire desired length of your closet.
Attach with the 2-3/4" screws to the 10" long 2x4s.
NOTE: I recommend building the base slightly smaller front to back so that the closet can sit above your base moulding. If you have taller base moulding, consider using a 2x6 for the base frame to bring your closet up above the base moulding.
TIP: You may wish to finish the base at this point.
For stained finish: it is recommend to use edge banding on the front of the plywood edges to finish.